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About steffeeh

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location


  • CPU
    Intel i7 5820k
  • Motherboard
    Asus X99-A
  • RAM
    2x 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 2400 MHz CL14
  • GPU
    Asus Geforce GTX 970 STRIX
  • Case
    Be-Quiet SIlent Base 800
  • Storage
    Samsung 850 Evo 1 TB
  • PSU
    EVGA 750 G2 750W
  • Display(s)
    2x Dell U2414H
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-U14S
  • Sound
    Music studio sound system (Yamaha HS8 + external Audio Interface)
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home x64

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  1. So the data on D : will go unaffected if I only format C : then install on C :?
  2. Long story short, my brother is unable to boot into Windows (including safe mode) and have no external backup at the moment (Y I K E S, I know). We've tried a bunch of stuff but nothing works and we're down to doing a clean Windows install from a bootable installation media. Apparently he has divided his SSD into two partitions with the standard C : only containing OS and installed programmed, and then a D : partition containing all personal files. Is it possible to only wipe the C : partition with bootable installation media without touching the D : drive? IIRC when you use a device containing a Windows installation to reinstall Windows you just enter the setup and format all partitions and erase them if you fully want clean it all up - shouldn't it be possible to just format the C : partition to install a fresh Windows without losing data on the D : partition, even if they're on the same physical drive?
  3. So is it normal then that the CPU runs at 1.32-1.344V at stock during load?
  4. Full build list at the bottom. Just finished a build for my brother with a 2600X, however I'm having very high voltage during load and therefore very high temperatures - below boost clock. When idle the voltage lies around 1.0V but regurarly spikes up to 1.4V with clocks regurarly spiking just below 4.2GHz. During load it sits at around 1.32V occasionally going up to 1.344V, immediatelly giving me CPU temperatures of 75C and a VRM temperature of 65C within a minute. Yet my clocks seem to stay at 3.9GHz, even though boost is supposed to be 4.2GHz during load. I've made sure Vcore is set to Normal instead of Auto, I've even tried setting an offset of +0.012V hoping it would land at 1.21V but nothing has worked so far. I'm not that experienced with Ryzen processors, are these values normal? What ways are there to fix this and get more "normal" voltage (I assume it should around 1.2V stock)? BUILD SPECS: - CPU: Ryzen 2600X @stock - Mobo: Gigabyte Aorus B450 M w/ BIOS version F32 - RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB 3200MHz CL16 (2nd hand) w/ XMP enabled - GPU: Asus GTX 970 Strix (2nd hand) - CPU Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports Edition (single fan) - PSU: EVGA SuperNova G3 550W - OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit, version 1903 (fresh install) - Resolution: 1080p 60Hz - Case: Cooler Master Silencio S400 - Storage: Samsung 850 Evo 1TB (from previous PC) + 1TB HDD
  5. I'm making a post for a relative who's having the issue. The build info I received is outlined at the bottom. Basically my relative got an RX Vega 56 as a gift and is having a problem where No Man's Sky at highest graphics preset runs smoothly for around 5 seconds, and then for 5 seconds with severe stuttering, cycling. The GPU usage was only at 21%, stuck at around baseclock, and the card ran at 50C, according to the screenshot he sent me (taken presumably during stuttering). CPU usage is at 42%, and the game consumes ~8GB RAM and 6GB VRAM. All other games run without issues. Before launching any game he went ahead and cleared the old video drivers and installed new ones. Let me know if you need any additional info. GPU: Sapphire RX Vega 56 (I think it was the Pulse model) CPU: Intel Core i5 3570k @stock Mobo: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H (Z77 chipset) RAM: 16GB DDR3 PSU: 800W OS: Windows 10 64-bit version 1803 Resolution: 1920x1080 EDIT #1: Maybe update Windows as a start?
  6. I've built a PC for a friend, and I'm currently running some tests to make sure everything work as it should.If I've understood things right, normally when you overclock the RAM you want to run Memtest86, and then Prime95 in custom mode with a range of 512K-4096K, where 512K-1024K stresses the IMC and I/O-lanes, and 2048K+ stresses the actual DIMMs (as outlined by the RAM overclocking guide on this forum).However now I only want to see if the XMP/DOCP is stable and works well in the system - do I then really need to stress test the DIMMs themselves with 2048K+ FFTs? Would be enough to just stress test the 512K-1024K range?They are after all binned, and should work running at the marketed specs assuming the rest of the system works with the profile too.Truth be told, he's picking the system up tonight so I'm a little short on time and can't run Prime95 for 8+ hours without telling him to come by tomorrow instead.
  7. I just built a PC for a friend and I'm currently testing stuff out to make sure the hardware works as it should. Right now I'm running a Ryzen 2600 at stock speeds with Prime95 small FFTs just to see if the cooling is alright in case I've had mounted it badly. Temps are great, 56C at the moment, but by some reason I'm not getting full CPU utilization, the clock speed is only hovering around 3.5GHz whereas the full boost is at 3.9GHz.
  8. "1.05V SB Voltage", in the Asus ROG BIOS it's beneath the DRAM voltage in the AI Tweaker.
  9. Thank you for the quick reply! Do you also know what the SB Voltage is? At first I suspected that to be the VCCSA.
  10. Like the title says. I'm trying to help a friend stabilize the RAM DOCP that currently isn't stable so I figured I'd help increase some voltages and hope for the best
  11. Thank you for your replies! I have the DIMMs installed in the slots recommended by the manual, which like you said is slot 2 and 4. I tested each DIMM separately in slot 2 but found no issues, though I only ran 4 passes this time (however the errors seemed to occur before completing 4 passes when I discovered them). Could it be that the RAM is actually fine, but slot 4 on the board is bad? I also swapped place with the DIMMs so the DIMM in slot 2 was in slot 4 and vice versa, but got errors again. The DIMMs weren't hot when I touched them, and the CPU temperature in BIOS is at around 35C, so at least it's not 85C when idle, but I still agree that 85-90C is too hot. I'll test the temperatures in Windows with RealTemp and try some moderate load and see how the temps behave.
  12. I've built a PC for a friend and I'm currently borrowing it for doing some testing to make sure the hardware is working as it should. This includes running Memtest86 with the memories at stock, so I haven't fiddled anything with the memory, they're at 2133MHz JEDEC standard. I made sure the DIMMs were properly seated the best I could. The RAM is a pair of G.Skill Trident Z RGB LED DDR4 3200MHz 2x8GB (F4-3200C16D-16GTZR), paired together with an AMD Ryzen 5 2600, on an ASUS ROG Strix B450-F Gaming motherboard with BIOS version 2301. I first let a session run during the night, and when I checked it in the morning there had been 1785 errors, all in test #7 at pass #3. The session ran for a total of 7 hours, and finished 8 passes. I then just launched another session while I was at work etc, and in this session there had been 1790 errors, att in test #10. I couldn't see which pass for some reason, but I would suspect somewhat early in the session as well. This session ran for a total of 11 hours with 12 full passes. Some notes: - I have updated the BIOS on the mobo and then loaded optimized defaults. - The CPU ran pretty toasty, mostly at 85C, but one time I shortly saw it at 92C (no errors occured during the 92C temperature). I've seen that CPU's can get quite warm with Memtest86, however this is really hot. I think I may need to reinstall the cooler. - The PC currently runs on an SSD that we took from a laptop, and we haven't reinstalled Windows yet as we didn't get the time. This means the drivers are all mismatched, but it doesn't feel like it should affect Memtest86 as it runs outside Windows. - The RAM has RGB LEDs, so some of the power from the DIMM slots goes to the LEDs. Could any of this affect the stability results in Memtest86? Do we need to RMA the RAM sticks?
  13. Long story short, I'm currently looking to change one of my screens to a higher tier one that is larger (27" instead of my current 24") and has a higher resolution, but where I live a curved panel seem to be cheaper than a flat one with the more or less equivalent specs, so I'm considering that as an option to save some cash. However my current setup are 2 screens that are a symmetrically placed (i.e their inner edges are right in front of me), can't move one too much to one side or it will cover one of my studio speakers. Would it look weird and annoying to have a curved panel that is slightly to the side with a flat one beside it? I could move the curved screen slightly towards the middle of my viewing angle and push the smaller flat screen a little bit to the side before it covers one of the speakers, but I would still have to look a little towards one direction to focus on the curved screen. Should you only have a curved screen right in front of you, or could this work? A flat panel with similar specs would cost like an additional $120.