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Alice in game

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  1. Hi, I know it have been asked a while ago, but I did not really loggin in for that long and think I should answer the questions. The answer to your rephrased question is yes. The macro are saved on the keyboard and can be used on any device. The only exception is the feature that change the macro layer when you change software. For example switch to layer 1 when using Excel, layer 2 for Chrome, etc. In that case you need the software installed. I slightly edited the original post. Still really happy with it, work well. I use it with my left hand to use macro like copy/paste, insert date, apply formatting, just to get repetitive tasks done a bit quicker and that work perfectly for me. I tried a couple of times to use it a a keypad with my right hand, but I would need some practice to get as fast as with my current keyboard, as it is higher and flat. Compared to my Dell keyboard (provided by the job) the base is as high as the whole keyboard, so it's like adding the switches on top of the keyboad I use. If I was to use it exclusively for keypunching numbers, I might prefer to have a wrist rest and/or do something to incline it. Here are pictures of the chip and the board, it'a bit hard as the case is over the top part where most of the components are.
  2. I had the same problem, used default settings and fixed the problem. Hope it will for you too
  3. Introduction For a long time, I wanted to have macro keys to my keyboard. My problem is that all gamers keyboard with macro key available in North America use the ANSI layout and I use a keyboard config that require a ISO keyboard to work properly. I could always oder from the UK, but that would cost twice the price at the end, or maybe a Japanese keyboard (there is no key between the left shift an Z, but there is 4 instead of 3 key between the M and right shift, so the key I need might be there). As a full keyboard like I want is not easy to find, other options included specialty macro keyboard (too "gamer" and expensive for my taste) or numpads where I could record macro. On the second option, there is two type of keyboards possible, a "normal" one, that could be remapped using a software "Taran style", or a keyboard that can be programmed directly in the device (like many full keyboard with macro keys). First option is cheap, arount 10-20$, but require a software installed on the computer you use. As I want to use it at work to do simple things like copy paste (after a million time doing it, you wish you do not have to twist your fingers to hit the two keys) and installing a software require admin access, that I don't have and I dont thing IT would agree. The other option, the real macro keyboards are usually overpriced (for me) at over 100$, sometimes even 150$. Then, I found the MAX Falcon-20 RGB Custom Programmable Mini Macropad Mechanical Keyboard. Purchase an customer service Before purchasing, I sent an e-mail to their customer service as it was not clear if the keyboard was saving the config inside of the keyboard, and not in the software. The answer was yes, saved in the keyboard, with the exception of the launch and sync program features. (That change the layer used when a specific sowtware is used). The second question was if it's possible to change between the different programmation layers without the software, and the answer is yes (you can configure a key to change layer or use the button under the keyboard to change the layer). They replied to my e-mail the next day, so nothing to complain (and the info they gave is right) I purchased the keyboard on friday and it was shipped the next monday. That was perfect. I paid for the cheapest delivery method, so it took 2 weeks to get to me, but that is not their fault. 10/10 DIY Kit What ? DIY ? Actually, there is two versions of the keyboard. The assembled one for 69.99$ or the DIY kit for 59.99$. Because I am a bit cheap and that it sounded fun, I purchased the DIY kit. In the box you get : The PCB with everything (but the switches) soldered, the metal frame, screws, switches of your choice, keycaps and the usb cord. The installation is simple, first you screw the standof to the PCB, than the PCB to the grame, stick the rubber feets, place the switches in the holes (just check for bent pins) and solder the switches. With only two solder points by switch, you have a total of 40 easy solder points to do. I am far from being an expert, the only thing I ever did was resolder a switch to a lamp and resolder the broken wire of my laptop powerbrick. That being said, even with my lack of experience, that was easy. The solder points are not close from each other, so no fear to join two points together.... unless you are really bad at it. Good news, all my solder points where good (or at least to keyboard work). For the fun of doing it and to save 10$, that was really worth it. Would totally recomment if you have a soldering iron. There is also a youtube video to learn how to make it. 10/10 Keyboard The keyboard itself is well made, with a tick alluminum plate in a nice dark grey finish. The keycaps are black backlight keycaps, easy to read with the led on. It come with an micro usb wire that can be attached to the top or right side, this a really good idea as it can be used in 4x5 or 5x4 config. Some people could complain that the cable is not sleavec or braided or whatever (as if I care, none of my other peripheral cables are). You can select from 4 type of MX switches or 6 type of Gateron switches. I went for the MX silent. It's the fist mechanical keyboard I use and I do not like the clicky switches at all. The main thing that botther me is that the keyboard is pretty flat, with no adjustable legs to add an angle. I will probably put something under the back feet to give it an angle, or maybe screw something in the screwholes. I understant that they do not want to have a natural slope as it would kill the option to use it on both orientation. It also seems a bit tall, but I guess that mechanical keyboard are just taller than membrane one... I'll see how it is to use regularly. Out of the box, the 5 layers of macro are by default set as an usual numpad, with the exception of the 0 that is plit in two to add a 00 key (interresting) and the + an enter are single keys that make place to the / and * on the right row.... but what are the L1 and L2 keys ? Out of the box, they are Layer keys and change between the two first layers (white and blue). Other than that, there is a small switch on the right side of the PCB, that just shut off the keyboard, and on the left side there is 3 buttons. All the buttons are labeled on the PCB, fist for brightness, with off an 4 level, second is RGB mode (breathe, fade in, fade out, last key stay on, rgb wave, random (and flashing random), custom (by default, 8red 46 blue 5yellow 2 green), and last button is Layer cycle, so even if you did not program a layer or layer cycle key, you can always reach this button. I really like the style of the keyboard, it might look a bit DIY with the visible PCB under, but I like it and it also allow an additional feature, LED under the PCB to light the desk, ans as all the LED, they are RBG customisable. 9/10 RGB I would not pay a premium to have RGB components, but if you are, I think that this device offer nice features with it's 8 modes (lister before). No you cannot combine the modes (like breathe custom), and the options are only for the color, rainbow from left to right or top to bottom, or color of individual led, as well as brightness. I guess that other big company making peripherals can have nice features like steelseries that have apps for games ( I would use the Minecraft one if it was not for the fact that my hand cover the light of the mice when I play, so I would not notice the color change with lower health). I am not an RBG expert, but I think the offer is still solid 8/10 Software This is where it got a bit ugly. My antivirus started to scan when I started the installer, and it does not like the .tmp file created by the installer and even if I told the antivirus to trust that file, that was not working well and I was not able to install on my main computer. (I'll send them an e-mail later, maybe there is something they can do to fix this issue). However, I was able to install it on my laptop (that do not have an antivirus and I use it offline only), and it worked without problem. EDIT: I deactivated my antivirus for 10 minutes and it installed right away. The software is easy to use (they even have a video to show how it work) assigning key (via visual keyboard on screen) or programming macro keys is easy. I found that they key assignment is easier on that than on the steelseries software (with the dropdown menus by category). I do not especially like the style, of the GUI, but for the number of time I'll look at it, that does not matter that much. It is also easy to customise the led and use the launch/sync program. The launch confir allow you to launch a software and the sync program otpion allow you to select what layer of programmation to use when you switch to a specific software. For example you can say to switch to layer 1 when you open excel, with a numpad programmed and use layer 2 when you open iTunes, with media key programmed. so when you switch between the different softwares, the layer will switch. You can alt tab between the two softwares and the layer will change after a second. 7/10 Value At 69.99$, or 59.99$ for the DIY kit, yes it is more expensive than some cheap full mechanical keyboard. I would usually consider is somehow expensive, especially when compared with numpads that are 10$ or 20$. However, when compared to super expensive 100+$ macro pads, that is not that expensive. 9/10 Final word I'll have to use it more, but for not, this feel extremely good. I do not regret a second buying this keyboard and I am really exited to start using it. And as those are Cherry switches, I know that if I really want, I can get custom keycaps to match thay I program on the keys... and good news, Max keyboard are printing custom caps! If you have questions or things you want me to test, let me know. Link : Assembled Falcon 20 DIY Kit
  4. I have to convince myself that I need a new computer first mine is still able to run things properly and I feel it would be a waste to buy a new computer just for the sake of buying a new computer. To give you an idea, my actual computer only have USB 2.0 and I do not own any USB 3.1 device, so that would be a "new feature" for me, but not even something that I would use. I would agree with your statement of header placement. Could even add the sata port placement. I prefer to have them all facing the side, and not facing up like Asus Prime Z370-P, that also only have 4 port.
  5. Looking at many motherboards, I had a hard time seeing the difference between many of the cards available. I could see many look like they have the same features, almost wondering what are the differences. From what I could see, most of them have similar IO with about 6 usb (selection change from boards), 10/100/1000 Mbps LAN port, internal 2x usb 2.0, 1x usb 3.1 gen 1, thunderbold header, 2x M.2 optane ready, 6x SATA3. The most "rare" features are 1Gbps LAN, 8x SATA3, 1x USB 3.1 Gen 1 type C, WiFi... number of fan/rgb header ? ... RGB light ? I have the impression that the cheapest card would already offer just all the feature I would need, especially as I do not care about RGB. So I have two question. What Z370 card would you buy if you had to build a computer for for yourself ? (and why) What are the features that more expensive cards have that you would be looking for ? Because it's the cheapest, I would go with something like the ASRock Z370 Pro4
  6. Oh, that's a good one. Or chosing the right screw M3 or 6-32. On the original topic, isn't it easier to check the computer manual to see what the port is ?
  7. so you mean that it is easy ? cause the cable tell you what side goes on top by the usb logo, you don't have to look at the port http://lifehacker.com/5847279/how-to-plug-in-a-usb-cable-correctly-every-time
  8. as kalnick said, the 8 pins are for jumpers. there is usually instructions on the drive sticker, or in the manual (can find online). in many cases, no jumper is default.
  9. I was thinking about getting my PC in a rackmount, so it would look good to have the htpc case and amplifier to be the same width. The best looking case I found and that also have front usb 3.0 is the SilverStone GD09, but the main problem is that it can only accomodate 1 3.5HDD when using an optical drive, to read dvd and bluray as it would be to plug on tv and there is some content that I only have, or can find on disk. It also only have on external bay, so impossible to install a custom hotswap bay (not that I need it, but it's cool) So I was trying to find a solution to hook more disk to the computer, I am looking for advice, especially on the validity of option 2.2 Use an external enclosure to rackmount next to the pc. Use a pre-made enclosure that can be connected to the PC, like https://www.owcdigital.com/products/mercury-rack-pro PRO : easy CON : I would prefer not to have an extra power supply, on the expensive side COST : 350-400$ with required cables, or more if using a the mini sas + mini sas to 4xsata adapter card. Using an old 1U server with 4HDD cage, remove everything but the backplane and hook it to the main computer, can hook the backplane using mini-sas PRO : fun CON : custom power connector to the backplane, not sure if possible to hack a PSU connector to deliver power on a backplane (and can this work or some electronic on the backplane would require a sas controller, and is so, can a server sas card be used in a PC) COST : 40 to 60$ for an old server, 100$ for mini sas + mini sas to 4xsata adapter card. Use a different case PRO : can "save" 2U of space CON : most only have usb 2.0 and no usb 3.0 Use a case with at least 2 internal HDD slot PRO : cheapest CON : boring COST : 0 (as the Silverstone or a different case would sell for around 100$) Use a case with at least 3 external 5.25 bay, 1 for disk reader, 2 or 3 for hotswap hdd cage for 3 or 4 3.5 drive PRO: cheapest for external disk access. COST : around 90$
  10. It might just be it... I might have missunderstood, but the gigabyte GTX does have the internal hdmi... Anyways, at that price its cheaper to get a asus thunderbolt 3 card I guess.
  11. at 4 minutes, he show that he plug the display port from the graphic card to the mobo from the outside to share if on the usb type c / thunderbolt 3. Now exactly it.
  12. Not sure, but the RAM page show this "Backward Compatible with 1.5V DDR3 Memory Module "
  13. Hi, I remember seeing a video from a tech show just after the release of the GTX1080 where the presenter showed a motherboard that have built in thunderbold and an internal hdmi connection to link the mother board to their GTX 1080 (that also have an internal hdmi connection), so you can send the hdmi signal to thunderbold without having to link them outside of the case. Does anybody know what would be the brand (or even model) of that motherboard ?