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Power? PSU or from the wall? How would I go about measuring this?

Pretty much as the title says. However there is other info that I've figured out as well. - Any game that maxes out the GPU does this, be it csgo or darkest dungeon at 900 fps or PUBG / escape from tarkov at 40-60 fps. Packet loss is not the culprit as it happens in offline and single player games as well. - It is NOT a temperature issue, I'm nowhere close to throttling at all on any sensor, cpu,gpu, ram etc. - no VRAM or RAM issues or maxed out ram. - driver update, etc does nothing. - windows is up to date, has happened on multiple versions - disabling or enabling overlays does nothing - my cpu never goes above 20% or so - gpu usually runs stable at 80-95% then there is a sudden drop to 0% lagging everything. - I do run quad monitors but that should not result in any sudden major drop like this, but a minor fps drop overall is understandable. - looked in event manager, aside from some occasional warnings that sometimes line up, and sometimes dont at all with the lag spikes PC specs : Win10 pro Ryzen 1700 @ 3.8ghz, going to stock does not effect lag. ( 50C in games, using a AIO ) Zotac gtx 1080 mini, OC or not , still lags, no overheating or hitting TJmax (72C under load ) 32gb of 3200mhz ram, max I've ever used is 23GB. msi gaming pro b350 motherboard seasonic 800w gold psu ( forgot the exact model ) Any ideas would be appreciated, I'm not really sure what other things I can do aside from maybe a fresh win10 install again.

I've been getting GPU hitches, my usage drops from 100 to 40-60 in spikes and I get a massive hitch in my gameplay at random times, I haven't been able to find the cause. gpu is a Zotac mini 1080 Things I've looked into = their results below Overclocks = turned down to stock, no change temps = stable and okay according to hw64 other programs/recording = happens with or without CPU temps/usage = all good vram/ ram usage = all good, about 70% tops it originally only was a issue with pubg but that was a game problem, after that it was okay, then all of a sudden it started appearing in every game, from war thunder to pubg, even minecraft. Only game that I have that's immune is csgo, possibly becuase the fps is so high I don't notice a drop.

But realistically, its a thin af piece of metal that is stuck on with adhesive. I think it would only make a 2C diff at best, no way would it cause my temps to go down 30C or the likes.

I changed it out, and its in my pc right now but its also at 60C , but that's under mild load ( playing pubg atm , used it as my game drive ) I remember it being about 40C There was a sticky silicone pad under it before I changed out the drive, Probably was a thermal pad, but I did remove it becuase the old drive had chips on one side, and my new one has them on both; it was bending the drive.

I bought an Adata SX6000 NVME ssd a couple of days ago from Amazon. I used it to replace my 128gig laptop SATA boot drive, and its been as far as speed goes, really good. Everything is snappy and functions okay. Only catch is that it seems to idle at about 60C and work at 70C. This is really confusing, because it mounts under the touchpad of my laptop, away from anything else. My cpu and gpu can be idling at 35-40C and this thing will be going at 68C all on its own. I can feel the heat on my touchpad. Gpu and gpu are in the middle back of the laptop ( positioned over the top number row on my keyboard and the heatpipes run along where the screen attaches, so it could not be that. Ambient temps are like 22C. I tried multiple monitors like hwinfo64 and adatas own software, all report the same numbers. What could be the issue? I put on the small metal stylistic thingy that comes with it, but that couldn't be the cause of this. I have looked online and Samsung nvme pro drives seem to go above 100C at load, but this is 65C at idle ( and not misreporting, I can feel the heat where it wasn't before. Should I return the drive? Is this normal? I could accept 30 or 40C idles at normal but not 65-70C. I attached a picture of the new ssd and the laptop with the old sata 128 gig drive installed.

Seems to work in normal applications. Ill try it in a full screen application.

I recently picked up a 4k 28 inch asus monitor. Its been great. But I want 4 way monitors. I have 2 standard 1080p 60 ones, a single 1080p 144hz one, and this 4k unit. Before I had the 144hz in the middle flanked by the two standards. Since I have 4 now, I want this one to mount above it. and be pulled down when needed. Like how the arrow keys are on keyboards, but the up key being the 4k unit. All the arm stands ive found dont lift it high enough. it needs to go like 60-80cm in the air to be on top of the second monitor. Stand up mounts are too long and desk mounts max out at about 45 cm. How would I go about doing this? Also anybody know of a program to easily move fullscreen applications from one monitor to another? I know setting it as primary etc is a workaround, but is there any app i can install that i can set to do it?

My drill bits are right handed. Looks like I'll have to buy a set of extractors

I have a set of drill bits and a AC B&D drill, but the drill bits are designed for wood I believe. Just smack one on, put it in reverse, and let loose?

So just buy a set of screw extractors and get to work?

A long, long time ago, I stripped a screw while putting together my current PC. Nothing important, just holding on a fan, but I have a new PSU I want to install and it's in the way ( the fan it's holding ) to my motherboard CPU fan header. What should I do? Currently, I just put it in a system fan slot instead and left it be; seems to be working. But I want to OC it, and for that, I need control of the fan to scale up and down. Don't want to break the case, Thought about maybe drilling through the screw but metal flakes+ mobo is a bad idea. Screw extractors I know of, but I'll have to go buy one, and I presume it will also have the threat of metal shards.

You been spending time on WCCFtech or something? That level of fanboyism is really only over there. AMD did it a year ago, for roughly the same price. That's what matters.

Reinstall didn't work for me either, the problem showed up right after. I presume its some sort of windows 10 default setting. When I get back ill find a HDD usage monitor and then set it to log whats going on my C drive.

I used Linux for a while off a USB stick, it worked fine. Definitely a windows only problem. Not to mention this started happening only 1-2 months ago, whereas the pc is about 6 months old. I'll check the event log though, Maybe I can find something good in there.