Rawrso

I've been on 1909 and it works fine. I think just like before if your PC sleeps it requires a restart or reapplying dithering values.

Operating at minimum brightness kinda sucks unless your a hermit. I don't even have my brightness that high and it still has bad banding. Also certain models are worse than others too

Yeet still on 1809. I was always hesitant to update because of breaking dithering

I never seemed to have that issue. However I dont think I'm on a new windows build

GTA was horrible about it. Especially at night, everything dark looked all washed out and horrible. So far this is still working for me, granted I'm still on 1809. I've seen a lot more issues with it on the newer Windows versions. Its I guess still known monitors sleeping breaks it.

In task scheduler not in the WCM I outlined right?

I couldn't deal with the limited color range I tried that too. Honestly if it gets broken for good I'll probably make an attempt to sell this monitor and look for something else because it literally makes everything look so horrible I deem it unplayable or maybe I'll switch to team red which don't have these issue.

Other than the bug with is disabling after screen turn off I haven't really had much trouble with it on 1809

You must be on 1903 I assume?

I haven't updated to 1903, from what I can tell MS broke it with the most recent update pretty badly which means unless someone comes up with a workaround it'll probably not be fixed. I'm not sure if its possible to go back to 1809 but it's something I'd probably consider.

Oh man, 2 or so year update? Looks like all of the picture links are borken cuz I'm silly. ANYWAY. Since the last post the PC had got a new CPU. I traded my 3570k for a 3770k + $50. So not a bad deal I guess? Got a Samsung 850 Evo SSD, EVGA Supernove 550w PSU, Ran that till about early 2019. About that time I got a bug up my butt about needing a new monitor. So I went out and bought a 1440p 144/165hz monitor. Cool right? Only thing was my GTX 970 struggled to run games at 60ish fps at decent graphics settings as well as I noticed minor CPU bottlenecks in games say GTA V and Anthem. I OCed the CPU basically to its limits. I managed to run 4.5Ghz on a 3770k at like 1.4v (oof) it ran so hot and I basically didn't care because I planned on upgrading if it died. So I thought well the lesser of 2 evils was to just get a new GPU. I settled with a EVGA RTX 2070. Chill $500 later the minor CPU bottleneck became a BIG CPU bottleneck which lasted a couple weeks till I just said whatever ended up just redoing the whole rig. This time around I figured not to get an i5. Ended up getting a i7-9700k, Asus ROG Z390-E mobo, G.Skill TridenZ RGB RAM, Corsair RM750x in white. First thing I said was ya know...See what kind of OC the chip takes...Managed 5Ghz at around 1.19v. Super happy with that and it runs sooooooo much cooler than the 3770k did. Rig plays all of my games at 1440p maxed out 60+ FPS. But.....I couldn't leave anything alone....CPU ran cool but the GPU.....now even with the EVGA dual fan cooler it would still crest 65c while gaming which is just unacceptable. Problem was....nobody made a waterblock for my 2070. It wasn't till a couple months after I built the rig and checking EKs website every couple weeks I seent that they released that some 2080 waterblocks they sell fit my card and that conveniently PPC's was selling it for like $50 off. So I acted pretty fast on planning a loop and researching parts, new tubing, fittings, 360 rad. After some googling and consulting a friend who just did a custom loop he recommended HW labs for rads which is what I was mostly worried about. So I quickly put an order together for a 2080 RGB waterblock from EK, backplate, Primochill LRT white tubing 1/2" x 3/4", EK white compression fittings, HW Labs GTX360 rad just over $400 so it wasn't too bad imo. It wasn't till the day before everything was supposed to arrive it hit me....I kinda forgot fans for the rad....So a trip to microcenter later I picked up a pack of RGB ML120s along with a 9mm hex key to tighten the EK fittings. Now the fun of rebuilding the loop. I thought it was going to be a simple swap the tubing, add the GPU boom ezpz....yeah no...My neglect of my loop kinda bit me on my ass. 3 years of the loop running and only draining it once. I had some minor algae build up which means I had to remove everything and clean everything with a vinegar solution and a tooth brush. Open the CPU block and res and clean them flush the rad a million times ect then i wiped down everything inside the case and scrubbed all my fans so everything looked brand new. After that couple day process. It was finally time for me to assemble everything. Everything went fine, putting the waterblock on the GPU was an "experience" to say the least and EK's instructions combined with what seemed like a million screws I almost hurt the PCB but everything ended up fine. The 2080 waterblock worked flawlessly on my 2070 even tho EK only stated compatibility based on "customer" feedback. I had a day span of contemplating what coolant to run. I didn't want to deal with algae again because before I used distilled plus a KillCoil. Was going to go with EK coolant but at $18 a bottle I was like damn. Well the primochill tubing came with a sysprep and a utopia mix with distilled water to make a gallon of "coolant" ended up going that route vs coolant and distilled with killcoil (mostly cuz I know EK's nickel plating history). Anyway, enough of the life story. Here is some finial pictures of the build. I'm super happy with it it definitely makes this full tower case look more filled and the GPU hardly cracks 45c hitting about 2040/2070Mhz core. Note my destroyed apartment with stuff everywhere during the process.

After the horror stories (from crappy ek plating) and EK saying kill coils shouldn't be used with nickel blocks. I was gonna stay away from a kill coil this time.

Thanks guys. After some thinking I figured it might have been something like that. I made sure to flush them a ton. I didnt know but my primochill tube came with a sysprep and utopia so I'll run the sysprep while leak checking overnight then drain and fill with distilled plus utopia and change it every 6mo.

Getting around to adding a GPU to my loop. XSPC Raystom PRO CPU block AX240 Rad XSPC D5 pump/res combo EK RTX 2080 waterblock *new* HW Labs GTX 360 rad *new* Primoflex advanced LRT tubing 1/2x3/4 *new* Basically I neglected the intial rig with just the ax240 in a CPU loop. About 3 years and only drained and refilled the system once. Used distilled water and a killcoil. Inside of the tubing was slight green when swabbed (not bad at all it's getting new anyway). Same with the res and CPU block. Those are easy I can take those apart and already cleaned them with vinegar/water and a brush. Now the radiator is a different story. This seemed to have the worst of it. Very green when swabbed especially by the tubes in the rad. Ive flushed it with scalding hot water/vinegar for a couple hours at least like 5 flushes and shakings. It still looks like this inside. Think it's worth using? I plan on running EK Cryofuel Clear coolant because I can get it local to hopefully stop growth and this problem in the future and because I hear it's not wise to run killcoil with EK nickel blocks. I dont wanna ruin my nice new HW labs rad in a year. Thoughts?

From what I can find it's the panel not strictly just Dell but the Dell is definitely really bad about it. I've adjusted too the monitor coming from an IPS display in conjunction with dithering.

Added a few trouble shooting tips at the bottom of the main post. So far its still working for me 1809 will break dithering from a sleep or monitor sleep state requiring a reboot or sign out/in. Currently running 1809 and 418.91 drivers with it working.

I had a issue the other day where after reboots the system wouldn't apply dithering. Some of the more recent posts on the main thread show people having issues after a windows update IIRC I'll have to troll the post again and not skim. Myself when i experienced this I had luck removing the dithering value, restarting, applying the dithering value again from exporting a new fresh file without the value then reapplying it. Make sure your not using WCM for any color calibration also try disabling "night light" in windows.

Oh me too, I spent hours messing with it. I'm pretty happy with it now. Running games that can run 144+ fps is a whole different experience! But if I get another stuck pixel I think I'll see if microcenter will let me exchange it out for the S2716DG. I don't want to have to keep poking green pixels with my spen to make them go back lol.

Well I updated the post and wrote out the steps I took, hopefully someone finds it useful.

Honestly that's what it took for me. Just fiddling with it and seeing what worked.

Are you using windows color management for any ICC profiles? I know some people reported it having issues, I had some myself. Also in the NVCP under change resolution I have "use nvidia color settings" and under adjust desktop color settings i have "other applications control color settings". Its also possible it might just be buggy. Others seem to have problems with it on reboots or logging in/out of windows. Mine seems to be working fine.

I'm curious about that. Myself I don't have a colorimeter so I just used one i found so I wonder if it had any negatives when it came to that.

Let me know if it works and what windows build you are on.

In the original post I linked (I might just have to do a "Write up" for here so its less confusing) it shows how to modify the registry file to enable dithering on GeForce drivers. Guzz gives a bunch of dithering options he found. 8 bit temporal was one I and others used with success I tried 10 bit and it didn't seem to work. It might not be as bad on the S2716DG, my buddy has one and his didn't look near as bad as mine when I had him compare what I found so its probably more the S2417DG. For me I just do gaming, and it was horrible and super pronounced.

So I'm a new owner of a Dell S2417DG (A05) monitor, well you can say 2? First one I had to exchange due to pixels being stuck. Anyway right off the bat compared to my Dell S2240M IPS display it looked just like a steaming pile of horse.. yeah. I wouldn't say just because its a TN. I have a probably 7 year old now LG E2250T and even that blew this thing away when it came to darker scenes not looking like trash. I'd guess you could call this display a budget monitor sorta? $329 for a 24" 1440p 144/165hz G-Sync panel. ANYWAY. The banding this panel had was terrible (google S2417DG banding for maximum lolz). I trolled through tons of reddit/ltt/geforcefourms posts tried many combinations of ICC's and NVCP colour changes with monitor brightness/contrast level changes with no luck. From what I could gather it was due to the panels gamma and no OSD settings to change it also NVCP didn't work right without crushing lots of blacks (I'm not an expert on this in the slightest so bear with me). I found some information on how "dithering" can help combat this. Problem is its not available on Nvidia drivers for windows? or at least on consumer level products. AMD supposedly has the option available but never having and AMD card ever I couldn't say. So more 4am google skimming lead me to the geforce forums where I found a comment by "Guzz" (Find it here) where he was able to edit some registry options and get dithering to work sorta. Following the instructions actually made it work. You can see some images here I took using my note9 here for some comparisons. From what I can tell these problems aren't limited to these Dell monitors but I guess the actual panel used across other brands? This is just what I found that helped me. ALL CREDIT GOES TO GUZZ OVER ON GFORCE FORUMS ORIGINAL THREAD - https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/1082681/geforce-drivers/is-it-possible-to-quot-port-quot-dithering-from-nvidia-x-server-to-geforce-driver-/2/ COMPARISON PICTURES BEFORE AND AFTER - https://imgur.com/a/PiZ08Rv LINK TO THE ICC I USE FOR THE S2417DG - https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/5g5z8q/dell_s2417dg_color_profile_calibration_settings/dbzwat9/ HERE ARE THE STEPS I TOOK TO IMPLIMENT THIS AND MAKE IT WORK FOR ME, I DIDN'T DISCOVER THIS 1. Disable WCM (Windows Color Management) or Nvidia's Color settings or other display color management software Launch Color Management and delete and profiles you see listed under Device then go to Advanced<Change system defaults and remove any profiles you see along with going to Advanced and making sure "Use windows display calibration" is unchecked. Now I didn't have any other display calibration software to force ICC profiles. You might want to disable them see if you can this to work then try to get them to play nice. You'll probably notice some brightness/contrast levels changed on your display. I also made sure in NVCP in the Adjust desktop color settings was set to "Other Applications control color settings" 2. Registry Edits Launch Regedit and navigate to one of the follow directories HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\nvlddmkm\State\DisplayDatabase\YOUR_DISPLAY_NAME_HERE or HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\nvlddmkm\DisplayDatabase\YOUR_DISPLAY_NAME_HERE To find your displays name go to Device Manager<Monitors<YOURDISPLAY<Details and change the property box to say Hardware Ids. The value should say your monitors ID, mine was DELA0E7. As you can see below I have 3 different monitors with names DELA0E7_1x_07E_xx for whatever reason I have 3. I believe it had to do with me changing some display settings in NVCP. Regardless apply the registry edits to all 3. After you find your display right click the folder and go to Permissions. I had to give SYSTEM and Administrators(PCNAME\Administrators) and give them Full Control/Read permissions to edit the registry. Right click the file and export it to the desktop naming it the same as the key you are modifying. I only do this because it seemed easier to me I'll explain down below. Edit the file and add any of the following dithering values that you want. I used 8-bit temporal ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 6 bit; ditherMode - SpatialDynamic "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,00,00,00,ed,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 6 bit; ditherMode - SpatialStatic "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,00,01,ef,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 6 bit; ditherMode - SpatialDynamic2x2 "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,00,02,f0,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 6 bit; ditherMode - SpatialStatic2x2 "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,00,03,f1,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 6 bit; ditherMode - Temporal "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,00,04,f2,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 8 bit; ditherMode - SpatialDynamic "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,01,00,ef,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 8 bit; ditherMode - SpatialStatic "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,01,01,f0,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 8 bit; ditherMode - SpatialDynamic2x2 "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,01,02,f1,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 8 bit; ditherMode - SpatialStatic2x2 "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,01,03,f2,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 8 bit; ditherMode - Temporal "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,01,04,f3,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 10 bit; ditherMode - SpatialDynamic "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,02,00,f0,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 10 bit; ditherMode - SpatialStatic "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,02,01,f1,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 10 bit; ditherMode - SpatialDynamic2x2 "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,02,02,f2,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 10 bit; ditherMode - SpatialStatic2x2 "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,02,03,f3,00,00,00 ditherState - Enabled; ditherBits - 10 bit; ditherMode - Temporal "DitherRegistryKey"=hex:db,01,00,00,10,00,00,00,01,01,02,04,f4,00,00,00 After you edit the file you should see it like this Save the file and double click on it to overwrite the existing file with the one we modified. Before you reboot the system go to http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php and http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gradient.php. Take note of the black squares and on the gradient one note any vertical banding bars across the gradient. I would take pictures so you can do a before and after. I just used my Note9. This is what my before looked like Reboot the system, the original poster Guzz said you could use CRU and restart64.exe. I had little luck with it and regular restarts worked better for me. After it loads up open up the Lagom.nl Gradient and black tests. You should note that you gained back some of the black squares and the gradient has a smooth transition. COMPARISON PICTURES BEFORE AND AFTER - https://imgur.com/a/PiZ08Rv 3. Things to remember, your mileage may vary. From what I can find, its a hit or miss if it works. Mine works fine it survives restarts. Sometimes it seems to break when a driver crashes or if I change a display setting or when I load windows. Usually for a generic reboot fixes it. Sometimes I have to double click the registry file on my desktop again and reboot and it fixes it. I used 8-bit temporal because other had luck with it.I tried 10-bit and it didn't work right it seemed. I had a bunch of issues trying to load ICC profiles through windows which is why I opted to disable it an opted to use CPK with an ICC I found on reddit I liked. As of making this I'm on Win10 Home 64-bit, Version 1803 Build 17134.590 on an RTX 2070 with 418.81 drivers. Before doing this I did do a DDU clean and reinstalled drivers. If you find it not working after some sort of display change head back into regedit and look for an extra display, maybe you have a 2nd one causing issues? In the original thread people sometimes had issues with restarts or logging in/out in order for this to work after it working previously. You might have to go back into NVCP and try to adjust gamma after enabling dithering to make things look better. NOT WORKING? TRY THESE STEPS If you notice the dithering stopped working try rebooting the system If that doesnt work remove the dithering value from the registry, reboot the system, export another "clean" copy and re enter the dithering value, apply it and reboot. This worked for me Currently on 1809 dithering gets removed when the system wakes from sleep or when the monitors "sleep". To reapply the setting reboot or sign in/out usually works. Make sure you have no ICC profiles being used through WCM or any other program as it could cause problems Hopefully Nvidia will add this to NVCP sometime but I wouldn't hold my breath and hopefully there isn't some BS hotfix to stop this from working. If this worked for you feel free to share what you did as well as before and after pics