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About Rawrso

  • Title


  • CPU
    Intel i7-9700k @ 5Ghz 1.19v
  • Motherboard
    Asus ROG Strix Z390-E
  • RAM
    16GB G.Skill TridenZ RGB
  • GPU
    EVGA RTX 2070 XC
  • Case
    NZXT Switch 810 White
  • Storage
    Samsung 850 EVO 500GB/1TB Spinny Drive
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750x
  • Display(s)
    Dell S2417DG / Dell S2240M / LG E2250T
  • Cooling
    Custom Liquid Cooling
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70
  • Mouse
    Thermaltake Black
  • Sound
    Corsair Void Pro RGB, Logitech Z-2300 Speakers
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64-Bit

Recent Profile Visitors

260 profile views
  1. Operating at minimum brightness kinda sucks unless your a hermit. I don't even have my brightness that high and it still has bad banding. Also certain models are worse than others too
  2. Yeet still on 1809. I was always hesitant to update because of breaking dithering
  3. I never seemed to have that issue. However I dont think I'm on a new windows build
  4. GTA was horrible about it. Especially at night, everything dark looked all washed out and horrible. So far this is still working for me, granted I'm still on 1809. I've seen a lot more issues with it on the newer Windows versions. Its I guess still known monitors sleeping breaks it.
  5. In task scheduler not in the WCM I outlined right?
  6. I couldn't deal with the limited color range I tried that too. Honestly if it gets broken for good I'll probably make an attempt to sell this monitor and look for something else because it literally makes everything look so horrible I deem it unplayable or maybe I'll switch to team red which don't have these issue.
  7. Other than the bug with is disabling after screen turn off I haven't really had much trouble with it on 1809
  8. I haven't updated to 1903, from what I can tell MS broke it with the most recent update pretty badly which means unless someone comes up with a workaround it'll probably not be fixed. I'm not sure if its possible to go back to 1809 but it's something I'd probably consider.
  9. Oh man, 2 or so year update? Looks like all of the picture links are borken cuz I'm silly. ANYWAY. Since the last post the PC had got a new CPU. I traded my 3570k for a 3770k + $50. So not a bad deal I guess? Got a Samsung 850 Evo SSD, EVGA Supernove 550w PSU, Ran that till about early 2019. About that time I got a bug up my butt about needing a new monitor. So I went out and bought a 1440p 144/165hz monitor. Cool right? Only thing was my GTX 970 struggled to run games at 60ish fps at decent graphics settings as well as I noticed minor CPU bottlenecks in games say GTA V and Anthem. I OCed the CPU basically to its limits. I managed to run 4.5Ghz on a 3770k at like 1.4v (oof) it ran so hot and I basically didn't care because I planned on upgrading if it died. So I thought well the lesser of 2 evils was to just get a new GPU. I settled with a EVGA RTX 2070. Chill $500 later the minor CPU bottleneck became a BIG CPU bottleneck which lasted a couple weeks till I just said whatever ended up just redoing the whole rig. This time around I figured not to get an i5. Ended up getting a i7-9700k, Asus ROG Z390-E mobo, G.Skill TridenZ RGB RAM, Corsair RM750x in white. First thing I said was ya know...See what kind of OC the chip takes...Managed 5Ghz at around 1.19v. Super happy with that and it runs sooooooo much cooler than the 3770k did. Rig plays all of my games at 1440p maxed out 60+ FPS. But.....I couldn't leave anything alone....CPU ran cool but the GPU.....now even with the EVGA dual fan cooler it would still crest 65c while gaming which is just unacceptable. Problem was....nobody made a waterblock for my 2070. It wasn't till a couple months after I built the rig and checking EKs website every couple weeks I seent that they released that some 2080 waterblocks they sell fit my card and that conveniently PPC's was selling it for like $50 off. So I acted pretty fast on planning a loop and researching parts, new tubing, fittings, 360 rad. After some googling and consulting a friend who just did a custom loop he recommended HW labs for rads which is what I was mostly worried about. So I quickly put an order together for a 2080 RGB waterblock from EK, backplate, Primochill LRT white tubing 1/2" x 3/4", EK white compression fittings, HW Labs GTX360 rad just over $400 so it wasn't too bad imo. It wasn't till the day before everything was supposed to arrive it hit me....I kinda forgot fans for the rad....So a trip to microcenter later I picked up a pack of RGB ML120s along with a 9mm hex key to tighten the EK fittings. Now the fun of rebuilding the loop. I thought it was going to be a simple swap the tubing, add the GPU boom ezpz....yeah no...My neglect of my loop kinda bit me on my ass. 3 years of the loop running and only draining it once. I had some minor algae build up which means I had to remove everything and clean everything with a vinegar solution and a tooth brush. Open the CPU block and res and clean them flush the rad a million times ect then i wiped down everything inside the case and scrubbed all my fans so everything looked brand new. After that couple day process. It was finally time for me to assemble everything. Everything went fine, putting the waterblock on the GPU was an "experience" to say the least and EK's instructions combined with what seemed like a million screws I almost hurt the PCB but everything ended up fine. The 2080 waterblock worked flawlessly on my 2070 even tho EK only stated compatibility based on "customer" feedback. I had a day span of contemplating what coolant to run. I didn't want to deal with algae again because before I used distilled plus a KillCoil. Was going to go with EK coolant but at $18 a bottle I was like damn. Well the primochill tubing came with a sysprep and a utopia mix with distilled water to make a gallon of "coolant" ended up going that route vs coolant and distilled with killcoil (mostly cuz I know EK's nickel plating history). Anyway, enough of the life story. Here is some finial pictures of the build. I'm super happy with it it definitely makes this full tower case look more filled and the GPU hardly cracks 45c hitting about 2040/2070Mhz core. Note my destroyed apartment with stuff everywhere during the process.
  10. After the horror stories (from crappy ek plating) and EK saying kill coils shouldn't be used with nickel blocks. I was gonna stay away from a kill coil this time.
  11. Thanks guys. After some thinking I figured it might have been something like that. I made sure to flush them a ton. I didnt know but my primochill tube came with a sysprep and utopia so I'll run the sysprep while leak checking overnight then drain and fill with distilled plus utopia and change it every 6mo.
  12. Getting around to adding a GPU to my loop. XSPC Raystom PRO CPU block AX240 Rad XSPC D5 pump/res combo EK RTX 2080 waterblock *new* HW Labs GTX 360 rad *new* Primoflex advanced LRT tubing 1/2x3/4 *new* Basically I neglected the intial rig with just the ax240 in a CPU loop. About 3 years and only drained and refilled the system once. Used distilled water and a killcoil. Inside of the tubing was slight green when swabbed (not bad at all it's getting new anyway). Same with the res and CPU block. Those are easy I can take those apart and already cleaned them with vinegar/water and a brush. Now the radiator is a different story. This seemed to have the worst of it. Very green when swabbed especially by the tubes in the rad. Ive flushed it with scalding hot water/vinegar for a couple hours at least like 5 flushes and shakings. It still looks like this inside. Think it's worth using? I plan on running EK Cryofuel Clear coolant because I can get it local to hopefully stop growth and this problem in the future and because I hear it's not wise to run killcoil with EK nickel blocks. I dont wanna ruin my nice new HW labs rad in a year. Thoughts?
  13. From what I can find it's the panel not strictly just Dell but the Dell is definitely really bad about it. I've adjusted too the monitor coming from an IPS display in conjunction with dithering.
  14. Added a few trouble shooting tips at the bottom of the main post. So far its still working for me 1809 will break dithering from a sleep or monitor sleep state requiring a reboot or sign out/in. Currently running 1809 and 418.91 drivers with it working.