TheAudiophile

spwath just messaged me. He's getting the kit. Whatever he thinks is cool with me.

Yes, there are a few flagship DACs that have come out since then. I've built projects around them and a lot of them have great sound. No, the motherboard audio codec hasn't changed much. We've had the ALC8xx and ALC1150 for almost all of that time.

Remember how I offered up the kit right after you posted? I made sure to include the words "neutral party" for a reason. No, it's really hard to "build it wrong". Even individual resistor and cap values are printed on the board. I'm not going to dismiss anything someone who isn't biased against me or the idea of a DAC says after listening. You don't have to like me or my words. This is about improving one's audio equipment, not how you personally feel about me.

If anyone is curious, here is the original article/build log/experiment by Lukas Fikusz that I read back in 2009 when just starting to delve into how to improve my source. http://lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/LAMPUCERA/CD%20DAC%20Lampucera%20lampizator.html There is so much useful information on his website regarding DACs.

I used to sell it for $349 in a cigar box when I was unemployed, orders totalled 12 and then I didn't have time after getting a real job. I sold upgraded Playstations too, as well as a few custom orders. The most complex build was an ES9018 with shunt-regulated power supplies, transformer I/V stage and 6N2P tube output. Nothing has sounded better than that so far, but that was the customer's money I was spending, not mine. Well outside of my budget.

edited to spwath. you replied while I was responding. Also, I believe that it still is a kit, they just show the finished picture.

spwath, You are probably a good candidate. I'm going to let this post sit for today in case someone not yet involved in the conversation yet sees the offer. If not I'll have you PM me your shipping address. It should all fit into a USPS $5 box which I will cover. You are familiar with soldering, right?

As stated in my original post, I bet the ones you heard were all very similar in signal path to your board. I'll even ship a pair of the output transformers to the volunteer neutral testing party to get a complete picture. Those I request be returned at the end of testing though. You still get to keep a very capable DAC.

This is not the attitude of an audio enthusiast, this is the attitude of a bandwagoner. If a truly neutral party comes forward and wants to test my DAC against their onboard sound, I will ship them one of my spare kits to do it with, free of charge.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CS4398-USB-DAC-USB-coaxial-input-audio-RCA-output-192K-24BIT-kit/272219985126?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36142%26meid%3Da1f975013e74418aa180a2d356872bd1%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D161800752667

Your post was good, havoc. I dont think it should be last with prices as low as they are, but I liked your testing.

Condescension breeds condescension. Also, you few don't represent all audio enthusiasts on this board. There are a few people who have PMed me for advice since starting this thread.

Sure I agree with you but those types of people probably don't even read the audio forum. I'll go ahead and clear up that I'm speaking to audio enthusiasts.

Ah, now there's an actual post. We may be talking about very similar things using different words. Whenever I upgrade a component, I choose to either stick with it or sell it based upon if I can hear "further into the music" or "more sound information" and make sure frequency response has stayed flat. Describe what yardstick for you has to be "drastically different" for you to keep a component?

Hi SSL, thanks for that great post. Also, yes you have unless you didn't like any of the things you've purchased. Honestly it's probably best for your psychological health if you just unfollow this thread and ignore it. Just trying to help you out.

I'm all about specs and empirical data, but I don't think anyone knows how to measure what we're talking about directly. It's probably a result of a lot of things combined like THD, IMD, SNR and Dynamic range combined. If you're curious about those specs, you can always google for the CS4398 datasheet.

Have you never gotten a new and better audio component and experienced hearing things you've never heard before? http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xcs4398+kit.TRS0&_nkw=cs4398+kit&_sacat=0 Any of those will work. I would suggest replacing the main power capacitors with Nichicon MUSE KZ, the other electrolytics with Sanyo OS-CON, the film caps with WIMA MKP4 and the resistors with VIshay/Dale CMF55. If you want to try the transformer passive output stage, use 2 Jensen JT-11-YMPC. They have cores with 80% Nickel-alloy which are extremely permeable. Also, try to use only the SPDIF input if you can, the USB input is only okay.

By getting as much as possible out of the signal path and stripping it down to the bare essentials using only high-quality components, I find that there is much more actual "sound information" coming through. I don't mean "detail" like the treble or midrange is increased. In fact, there is no frequency response bump anywhere. The best way I can explain it is as if there is a magnifying glass on the sound itself, allowing one to hear further into the music, revealing new bits of sound information that was not audible with an inferior DAC. Things like texture of strings, auxilary noises on the piano, a more complete image of a snare drum hit, you're able to hear the recording environment more clearly, etc. Of course, the better the recording, the more new sound is revealed.

The stock op-amp output stage is not what I use, just to be clear. To keep the price down, one can use that if they wish. And how else does information spread? Someone discovers something others may not know and tells others.

Your version of "right" is a DAC is too expensive and doesn't make much difference. If you want to keep that narrative and think you're right, feel free. Just please don't limit other audiophiles by spreading that misinformation.

If you have no more points to bring up, I understand. Hard to argue with an argument that makes sense. I know its not easy to experience an interloper coming in and challenging your views. I get it.

I don't use headphones primarily, I have a carefully assembled speaker system as a main. How much power headphones need is determined by having enough voltage to drive them and a low enough output impedance to give them the required current. 2.1 volts is plenty and an output impedance of 0.3ohm when the headphones are around 50ohms gives a damping factor of ~166. There is no "bass boost" here. You guys need to know that amplifiers are sometimes not essential depending upon your source output stage and headphone type.

Why are you under the impression that I'm suggesting something expensive?

Nice one. Please keep to only adding useful posts to the conversation though. I can't stop you, but there's no need to post your emotions here.

Sure, Dackzy, we can include everyone in the world and call it 99%. Except that we're a small group of audio hobbyists who care about sound. You're limiting other newer hobbyists from better sound by spreading an opinion like that.