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Hybrid Divide

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  1. Hybrid Divide
    Understood. Thank you!
  2. Hybrid Divide
    I have a Vizio P75-F1 with the infamous black screen of death. The TV powers up, shows the Vizio logo like normal. Then the picture goes black, but the backlight remains on. When doing a factory reset, (Hold Vol Down + Input for 10 sec, release Vol Down and continue to hold Input). The TV will reboot multiple times, but nothing changes. This has happened a few times since I got the TV, but always managed to snap out of it relatively quickly until now. Been at this several weeks now. On my 3rd replacement Main Board. First one showed the Vizio logo, then went black, but unlike the original, the backlight turned off. Second was totally dead. Couldn't even get the logo to display. Third board acted exactly like the original board. (Vizio logo, goes black, backlight stays on.) Two replacement Power boards don't seem to have any effect. A replacement T-Con board didn't seem to have any effect either. I have not replaced the LED driver board, as the Flashlight test reveals nothing. And I know the panel is good, as the Vizio logo is displayed normally when the TV first boots. And yes, I did mix and match several of those boards before sending them back. Do you have anything you can suggest? I have a multimeter, but I admit I'm not very familiar with checking voltages. Things like knowing what setting I should set the multimeter to, and what spots to check would be great to know. Pictures would be a bonus. EDIT: I ended up buying a whole new set of boards (Power board, T-Con, LED Driver, and Main board) on ShopJimmy with zero luck. Same thing. Again, when it powers up, the logo comes up fine. Backlight too. So I'm sure the panel is fine. But I've literally replaced everything else, and I have NO IDEA what else it could be. There's no way I got that many dud boards. Please help! EDIT 2: Tried reinstalling the firmware, but it never seems to get the point that it's reading the data off the USB drive.
  3. Hybrid Divide
    Thanks for the reply all the same!
  4. Hybrid Divide
    Note to Mods: Really not sure where this should go. Don't have enough posts for the Classifieds, but am not sure it would apply there anyway. Please move this post if you feel it should exist elsewhere. Thanks. While doing a shell swap on my New 3DS XL, While disconnecting a ribbon cable, the whole connector ended up coming up off the board! Is there anyone in the Seattle area who knows how to micro solder that can help me get back up and running? I do have a soldering iron, but it can't do points that small, and I'm not proficient enough to be that precise with it. I've looked around for repair places, but I can't seem to find good ones in an endless sea of cell phone repair shops of dubious quality. So I figured I'd ask here. It's a simple repair, probably 10 minutes at most. I just want to make sure it gets done right. Thanks in advance. EDIT: Added Picture, added a bit about complexity.
  5. Hybrid Divide
    Good morning. For the last few years, I've been running two installs of Windows 10. One for work, and one for gaming. Each on a separate SSD. The work SSD installed internally. The gaming SSD run via a SATA Dock built into my case, and remove when not in use. (The dock had a direct SATA connection to my motherboard, so speed was not affected) I did this by starting with the work SSD. Getting all programs and updates installed, then cloning that install over to the gaming SSD, and installing my games from there. Minimizing all the extra work of having to reinstall everything again. I never set up a dual boot menu, as when I wanted to run the gaming SSD, I'd just select that drive to boot from when I turned on my PC. The SSDs are 500GB each, and both use a 3TB mechanical drive for file storage. This setup worked fine for about 2 years. But recently, I've had to wipe and reinstall Windows on the work SSD multiple times. Sometimes when running the gaming SSD, it would complain about hard drive errors from the other Windows 10 install (The work SSD). Eventually, when booting gaming SSD, it'll run chkdsk on the work SSD. And it's usually at that point when I need to wipe and reinstall windows again. It'd just simply refuse to boot in to windows one day. Just stuck on a loading screen forever. (This has never happened to the gaming install once.) Both SSDs are fine according to CrystalDiskInfo. So I don't THINK any of the flash chips on the work SSD are bad. I should also mention that every time I've had to reset the work SSD, it'd been running just fine for a month or two. Do you think something really is wrong with the SSD? Or did I set up this dual boot system the totally wrong way? And if so, how do I do it right? I'm hoping to stop this frustrating cycle right here. Thanks in advance.
  6. Hybrid Divide
    Hello, I'm having an issue I'm hoping you can help me solve. My PC has stopped booting up. It was running fine earlier today, but when I saw it had failed an update (Unfortunately, I do not know which update it was), I decided to reboot and try again. Alas, it would not boot. At first, I got a BSOD, with the 0xc00000e error code on it. I booted up some installation media via USB and attempted to repair the PC with that. It said it was repairing some disk errors, finished very quickly, and now it doesn't even give me the BSOD. It acts like windows it loading, showing those dots spinning around. But it never moves past that. I had the EXACT same thing happen to me about two months ago. Never did solve it. I just reformatted the SSD and reinstalled Windows. But I'd REALLY like to avoid going through all that hassle again if I can. Also, because the same thing happened to me a few months ago, I don't think it's a certain update that's the problem. Peripherals and such seem fine. I'm currently typing this from a USB-based Windows PESE environment, so I know that all works. I can even access the SSD with the troubled Windows install on it just fine. All the videos I've found that deal with that 0xc00000e or the loading issue talk about fixing the MBR, which I believe doesn't apply on an UEFI system? So I'm really unsure where to go with it from here. If you have any ideas, I'd like to hear them. Thanks in advance. ---------- PC Specs: CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K RAM: 32GB DDR4 GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 980 MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 (Rev: 1.0) With latest firmware) Boot SSD: Samsung 500GB SATA Storage HDD: Western Digital 3TB HDD Case: Corsair 650D OS: Windows 10 Pro (x64)
  7. Hybrid Divide
    Hey, thanks for the reply! I'll try to explain the best I can. My two installs of windows are for one primarily for work and one for gaming. (I know it might be odd to want to install Steam on an OS designed for work, but I have reasons.) Now, say that tonight, I go home, boot into my gaming OS, and play some Quake. I power it off when I'm done and go to sleep. When I come back to my computer, if I boot back into the gaming OS, Steam remembers that I'm logged in and doesn't ask me for anything. If I boot my work OS, it wants my password. If I enter my password into the work OS, it remembers my password until I switch back to the gaming OS. Even if I reboot the work OS. So basically, it'd be totally fine if I were only using one OS, but that doesn't work for me. The part that bugs me is, it USED to work exactly like I needed it to. Now it doesn't. Really annoying. Hope that explained it better!
  8. Hybrid Divide
    That makes sense. I'll take a look. Thank you!
  9. Hybrid Divide
    Thanks for the reply! Do you know if they deliver to the US?
  10. Hybrid Divide
    I recently incurred some damage to my LG V20. The glass over the cameras broke, and through that, the lenses on both of my rear facing cameras were damaged. Both cameras still function, but take terrible pictures due to said damage. I haven't seen very good reviews for the people on amazon and ebay who sell replacements. Do any of you know a place where GOOD replacements can be found for the LG V20's normal and wide angle rear facing cameras? Thanks in advance!
  11. Hybrid Divide
    I asked about this late last year, but it hasn't gone away, so I'm re-posting about this issue. ---------- I have a PC with two installs of Windows 10 Pro on two separate SSDs. When I first built this PC, I was able to install and login to Steam on each one, and I'd always be signed in when I started either one.Recently, if I sign in to Steam on OS-1, when I next log in to OS-2, Steam will make me sign in again. The check box is checked to keep me signed in, but it no longer works. If I simply reboot back into OS-1, Steam remembers my login status. But forgets it when I switch to OS-2Each OS is totally independant of the other, and Steam shares no files between them.Seeing as both OS-es are on the same PC, I'm NOT looking for some way to be logged in on both at the same time. That's impossible! I just want Steam to keep asking me to sign in when I switch from one OS to the other.If anyone can help, I'd appreciate it! Thanks in advance!
  12. Hybrid Divide
    I'll do that. Thanks!
  13. Hybrid Divide
    Yeah, it came from a Windows 7 OEM key. Now, if I bought another key, would another OEM key work? Or do I have to go with a retail key to make this work? (If a new OEM key would just wipe out the first OEM key, then I'd likely be stuck with the same problem, yes?) Need to know, as OEM keys tend to be cheaper, and I'd rather go that route if I can. Thanks for your help!
  14. Hybrid Divide
    It's more so I don't start slacking off when I should work on a project, but performance issues are another reason. Always nice to run into another AKIRA fan, too.
  15. Hybrid Divide
    Thanks for the reply. It just works better for me that way. Also, so I'm not tempted to slack off and game when I have a project I'm working on.
  16. Hybrid Divide
    Thanks for the reply. By keeping one key per machine, are you referring to the "Digital Entitlement"? Since posting this, I've read elsewhere that I'd need a second key, but, then, wouldn't that override the first install's "digital entitlement"? I mean, I'd rather NOT have to buy another key, but I need this dual boot option, so I'll do it if I have to. I know it's possible somehow. Thanks again.
  17. Hybrid Divide
    Hello all. I have a PC running two separate installs of Windows 10 on two separate SSDs, one for work stuff, the other for gaming. I've been running this setup for almost two years, and the only hardware change was when I upgraded the gaming setup's SSD in October of 2017, both now run on 500GB Samsung 850 EVOs. (I reinstalled Windows 10 Pro on both drives at this time, just to go with fresh installs all around.) Seeing as these were on the same computer, I had used the same product key. This was totally fine until the other day. The gaming install is fine. But the work install now says that Windows 10 isn't activated. When I try to activate it, it says that Windows can't be activated by that product key. The work install is running Windows 10 Pro, Version: 1709, OS Build: 16299.192, if that helps at all. Has Microsoft recently changed something regarding install situations like this? Or do I really need to buy a second Win 10 Pro key, even though they're on the same PC, and are never online at the same time? Your help is greatly appreciated in advance! EDIT: I haven't tied either install to a Microsoft account, as I have zero desire to do so. -------------------- PC Specs: CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K RAM: 32GB DDR4 GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 980 MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 (Rev: 1.0) With latest firmware) Boot SSD: 2x Samsung 500GB SATA (One per Win 10 install) Storage HDD: Western Digital 3TB HDD Case: Corsair 650D OS: Windows 10 Pro
  18. Hybrid Divide
    Just saw this. Thanks for the reply. I ended up reinstalling Windows, and that seemed to help, oddly enough. But I'll look into newer drivers for future reference, too. Thanks again!
  19. Hybrid Divide
    That makes sense, but, again, until this recent reinstall, it worked fine on both systems. Thanks for the reply.
  20. Hybrid Divide
    I have a PC running two separate installs of Windows 10 on two separate SSDs. I have Steam logged in on both drives. Steam isn't remembering my log-in state on switching between OS installs. For example: If I login to Steam on install 1, then reboot or restart into install 1, it will remember my install. If I switch to install 2, Steam forgets my login. Once I login, it remembers upon reboots and restarts into install 2. Switching back to install 1 forces me to log in again. I should add that I recently reinstalled windows 10 on these two drives, and that when I was running this setup before, Steam never had this login issue. Also, none of these logins when I switch require mobile code authentication, like it does when I log into Steam on a new device. So that's something else to consider. I hope this was a decent explanation. Please let me know if I need to clear anything up. Mods: Feel free to move this out of gaming, if it fits another category better. ----------- PC Specs: CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K RAM: 32GB DDR4 GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 980 MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 (Rev: 1.0) With latest firmware) Boot SSD: 2x Samsung 500GB SATA (One per Win 10 install) Storage HDD: Western Digital 3TB HDD Case: Corsair 650D OS: Windows 10 Pro
  21. Hybrid Divide
    I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
  22. Hybrid Divide
    Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I just want to be able to select them at boot. That's how I did it the first time. But it was almost like the windows installs were interfering with eachother after awhile. I thought there might be something special I need to do to make sure I don't have similar issues again.
  23. Hybrid Divide
    Greetings all. (Bits of this could belong in Troubleshooting, too.) For the past year and a half, since I built my most recent system, I ran it using a dual Win 10 boot setup. I have two 500GB SSD drives, one internal, that I use for my work, the other in a SATA 6gbps dock built into my case. (It's sort of a discipline thing, so I'm less tempted to game while doing work. When working, the game drive is disconnected.) The way I did this the first time, was to install Win10 on one SSD as normal, get it up to a baseline setup, then I cloned the drive, and just selected the drive I wanted to use as I booted. This was fine for over a year, but lately, the internal SSD (work one) has been getting lots of drive errors, every time I'd load up the gaming drive, it would complain that the work drive needed to be fixed, and my next boot to the work either wouldn't boot into windows, or would run chkdsk before doing so. Now that work drive won't boot into windows at all. It loads SOMETHING of Win10, as I see those spinning dots, indicating that Windows is loading, it just never moves past that point. Attempting a repair from an install USB does nothing. My first thought was that the SSD may be going bad, but I've run multiple diagnostics in multiple apps, and all say the drive is fine. I can get all my data off of it via the gaming drive (still works just fine!), so I'm ok with having to reinstall Windows, which brings me to my real question. (Though if you do know how I'd be able to reboot the work drive, I'd love to know!) Is there any way to run two Win10 installs on separate drives on the same machine and get them to play nicer with eachother than the way I did it the first time? I realize I had a lot leading up to that question, but I needed to provide some context. Thank you in advance for the help. ----------- PC Specs: CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K RAM: 32GB DDR4 GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 980 MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 (Rev: 1.0) With latest firmware) Boot SSD: 2x Samsung 500GB SATA Storage HDD: Western Digital 3TB HDD Case: Corsair 650D OS: Windows 10 Pro
  24. Hybrid Divide
    Sorry for the delay in my reply. Unfortunately, I have zero ideas on how to fix your issues man. Best of luck! I need to totally reinstall my OS anyway. Hopefully that might do something...
  25. Hybrid Divide
    Still not having any luck with this, and still need help. Thank you in advance!
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