Hybrid Divide

Understood. Thank you!

I have a Vizio P75-F1 with the infamous black screen of death. The TV powers up, shows the Vizio logo like normal. Then the picture goes black, but the backlight remains on. When doing a factory reset, (Hold Vol Down + Input for 10 sec, release Vol Down and continue to hold Input). The TV will reboot multiple times, but nothing changes. This has happened a few times since I got the TV, but always managed to snap out of it relatively quickly until now. Been at this several weeks now. On my 3rd replacement Main Board. First one showed the Vizio logo, then went black, but unlike the original, the backlight turned off. Second was totally dead. Couldn't even get the logo to display. Third board acted exactly like the original board. (Vizio logo, goes black, backlight stays on.) Two replacement Power boards don't seem to have any effect. A replacement T-Con board didn't seem to have any effect either. I have not replaced the LED driver board, as the Flashlight test reveals nothing. And I know the panel is good, as the Vizio logo is displayed normally when the TV first boots. And yes, I did mix and match several of those boards before sending them back. Do you have anything you can suggest? I have a multimeter, but I admit I'm not very familiar with checking voltages. Things like knowing what setting I should set the multimeter to, and what spots to check would be great to know. Pictures would be a bonus. EDIT: I ended up buying a whole new set of boards (Power board, T-Con, LED Driver, and Main board) on ShopJimmy with zero luck. Same thing. Again, when it powers up, the logo comes up fine. Backlight too. So I'm sure the panel is fine. But I've literally replaced everything else, and I have NO IDEA what else it could be. There's no way I got that many dud boards. Please help! EDIT 2: Tried reinstalling the firmware, but it never seems to get the point that it's reading the data off the USB drive.

Thanks for the reply all the same!

Note to Mods: Really not sure where this should go. Don't have enough posts for the Classifieds, but am not sure it would apply there anyway. Please move this post if you feel it should exist elsewhere. Thanks. While doing a shell swap on my New 3DS XL, While disconnecting a ribbon cable, the whole connector ended up coming up off the board! Is there anyone in the Seattle area who knows how to micro solder that can help me get back up and running? I do have a soldering iron, but it can't do points that small, and I'm not proficient enough to be that precise with it. I've looked around for repair places, but I can't seem to find good ones in an endless sea of cell phone repair shops of dubious quality. So I figured I'd ask here. It's a simple repair, probably 10 minutes at most. I just want to make sure it gets done right. Thanks in advance. EDIT: Added Picture, added a bit about complexity.

Good morning. For the last few years, I've been running two installs of Windows 10. One for work, and one for gaming. Each on a separate SSD. The work SSD installed internally. The gaming SSD run via a SATA Dock built into my case, and remove when not in use. (The dock had a direct SATA connection to my motherboard, so speed was not affected) I did this by starting with the work SSD. Getting all programs and updates installed, then cloning that install over to the gaming SSD, and installing my games from there. Minimizing all the extra work of having to reinstall everything again. I never set up a dual boot menu, as when I wanted to run the gaming SSD, I'd just select that drive to boot from when I turned on my PC. The SSDs are 500GB each, and both use a 3TB mechanical drive for file storage. This setup worked fine for about 2 years. But recently, I've had to wipe and reinstall Windows on the work SSD multiple times. Sometimes when running the gaming SSD, it would complain about hard drive errors from the other Windows 10 install (The work SSD). Eventually, when booting gaming SSD, it'll run chkdsk on the work SSD. And it's usually at that point when I need to wipe and reinstall windows again. It'd just simply refuse to boot in to windows one day. Just stuck on a loading screen forever. (This has never happened to the gaming install once.) Both SSDs are fine according to CrystalDiskInfo. So I don't THINK any of the flash chips on the work SSD are bad. I should also mention that every time I've had to reset the work SSD, it'd been running just fine for a month or two. Do you think something really is wrong with the SSD? Or did I set up this dual boot system the totally wrong way? And if so, how do I do it right? I'm hoping to stop this frustrating cycle right here. Thanks in advance.

Hello, I'm having an issue I'm hoping you can help me solve. My PC has stopped booting up. It was running fine earlier today, but when I saw it had failed an update (Unfortunately, I do not know which update it was), I decided to reboot and try again. Alas, it would not boot. At first, I got a BSOD, with the 0xc00000e error code on it. I booted up some installation media via USB and attempted to repair the PC with that. It said it was repairing some disk errors, finished very quickly, and now it doesn't even give me the BSOD. It acts like windows it loading, showing those dots spinning around. But it never moves past that. I had the EXACT same thing happen to me about two months ago. Never did solve it. I just reformatted the SSD and reinstalled Windows. But I'd REALLY like to avoid going through all that hassle again if I can. Also, because the same thing happened to me a few months ago, I don't think it's a certain update that's the problem. Peripherals and such seem fine. I'm currently typing this from a USB-based Windows PESE environment, so I know that all works. I can even access the SSD with the troubled Windows install on it just fine. All the videos I've found that deal with that 0xc00000e or the loading issue talk about fixing the MBR, which I believe doesn't apply on an UEFI system? So I'm really unsure where to go with it from here. If you have any ideas, I'd like to hear them. Thanks in advance. ---------- PC Specs: CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K RAM: 32GB DDR4 GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 980 MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 (Rev: 1.0) With latest firmware) Boot SSD: Samsung 500GB SATA Storage HDD: Western Digital 3TB HDD Case: Corsair 650D OS: Windows 10 Pro (x64)

Hey, thanks for the reply! I'll try to explain the best I can. My two installs of windows are for one primarily for work and one for gaming. (I know it might be odd to want to install Steam on an OS designed for work, but I have reasons.) Now, say that tonight, I go home, boot into my gaming OS, and play some Quake. I power it off when I'm done and go to sleep. When I come back to my computer, if I boot back into the gaming OS, Steam remembers that I'm logged in and doesn't ask me for anything. If I boot my work OS, it wants my password. If I enter my password into the work OS, it remembers my password until I switch back to the gaming OS. Even if I reboot the work OS. So basically, it'd be totally fine if I were only using one OS, but that doesn't work for me. The part that bugs me is, it USED to work exactly like I needed it to. Now it doesn't. Really annoying. Hope that explained it better!

That makes sense. I'll take a look. Thank you!

Thanks for the reply! Do you know if they deliver to the US?

I recently incurred some damage to my LG V20. The glass over the cameras broke, and through that, the lenses on both of my rear facing cameras were damaged. Both cameras still function, but take terrible pictures due to said damage. I haven't seen very good reviews for the people on amazon and ebay who sell replacements. Do any of you know a place where GOOD replacements can be found for the LG V20's normal and wide angle rear facing cameras? Thanks in advance!

I asked about this late last year, but it hasn't gone away, so I'm re-posting about this issue. ---------- I have a PC with two installs of Windows 10 Pro on two separate SSDs. When I first built this PC, I was able to install and login to Steam on each one, and I'd always be signed in when I started either one.Recently, if I sign in to Steam on OS-1, when I next log in to OS-2, Steam will make me sign in again. The check box is checked to keep me signed in, but it no longer works. If I simply reboot back into OS-1, Steam remembers my login status. But forgets it when I switch to OS-2Each OS is totally independant of the other, and Steam shares no files between them.Seeing as both OS-es are on the same PC, I'm NOT looking for some way to be logged in on both at the same time. That's impossible! I just want Steam to keep asking me to sign in when I switch from one OS to the other.If anyone can help, I'd appreciate it! Thanks in advance!

I'll do that. Thanks!

Yeah, it came from a Windows 7 OEM key. Now, if I bought another key, would another OEM key work? Or do I have to go with a retail key to make this work? (If a new OEM key would just wipe out the first OEM key, then I'd likely be stuck with the same problem, yes?) Need to know, as OEM keys tend to be cheaper, and I'd rather go that route if I can. Thanks for your help!

It's more so I don't start slacking off when I should work on a project, but performance issues are another reason. Always nice to run into another AKIRA fan, too.

Thanks for the reply. It just works better for me that way. Also, so I'm not tempted to slack off and game when I have a project I'm working on.