Dima

Nevermind, you can delete the thread.

That might explain why the timings are not correct because they are up one notch from the default ones stated on the XMP profile. I guess it tries to boot with the correct timings, fails, and then tries a bit looser timings and then succeeds? If I disable the Advanced Training it might not boot at all?

I have the option under the XMP profiles called AM4 Advanced Memory Training (on the Asrock AB350M Pro4 motherboard) and I couldn't find anywhere what this option does. Also I have this weird thing when I set my memory's XMP profile my PC would do like this "double boot" where fans go high RPM then settle down, then go crazy again and then I would get bios post screen and all the other regular stuff, where as if I leave it at auto it boots much faster. Memory is HyperX Predator 2x4GB 3GHz. Basically I just wanted to know what this option does, the rest doesn't really matter since PC is stable whatever setting I choose.

Thank you for the input guys, you are the best. One last question before I go for it. The 470 I wanted to buy is 4GB, and there is 8GB which is 30e more expensive, is it worth it?

Ok so I have: - Phenom II x4 955 at 3.8GHz - AMD HD 6870 1GB GDDR5 - Gigabyte GA-770T-D3L (which is in horrendous shape) - PSU 500w which is not a no-name (can't remember the name right now, but it's decent) - 8GB HyperX 1866 MHz RAM I wanted to buy RX 470 and was wondering how much of an improvement would I see if I plug it in into this system. I want to upgrade to Intel platform but doing so would cost me 300+ euros which I don't think I'm willing to do right now. Not to mention that I have Thermaltake V3 or V4 with Noctua NH-D14, I don't even know how this PC survived this long. My mobo survived 2 lightning strikes do to me having ADSL and not unpluging my phone jack during storms, it fried my onboard ethernet and audio so I am using 2 PCI-E slots and my BIOS is bugged and I cannot access it I mainly play WoW, CS:GO, H1Z1, Overwatch and stuff like that. Currently in WoW I cannot play in a raid setting with a preset of 1 without my FPS going lower than 30, and in Overwatch i feel my mouse floaty probably because of FPS drops, all settings low render scale 100%. Motherboard still works

@LukaH Haven't thought of that one. If I don't fix this until I get a new PC I'll try that for sure, just for the lulz

@LukaH Yes. That was my first thought, let's just load the other BIOS and solve the problem. But in the manual there is no mention of how to do this. Only that I cannot manually update or tinker with the other BIOS and that if the first BIOS fails the other one takes over automatically. There is a jumper on the board thought, but it's for Clearing CMOS, I guess that's the same stuff as just taking out the battery right? I might try that approach, and then try the other update methods. It's just interesting to me that everything still works, usually if you break the BIOS you are done. Thanks for the help

@LukaHNo errors. I used the @Bios utility that I downloaded from the Gigabyte's site. The first time I did the update I used a bios file that I downloaded from the official site, and the second time I did the update I used a bios from a remote server that was available from the application. I didn't use the Q-Flash because I would need a floppy drive (or I am mistaken), and I found the third option booting into DOS or something like that, too much of a hassle. I guess I could try with the other options when I have the time to play around with it. EDIT: I updated once and then after a few days I updated again because I thought something went wrong the first time but both times same result. And no error messages.

Just wondering, would it be possible to repair this kind of damage, and what would I need? I guess you can't just solder it back on

So I have this motherboard GA-770T-D3L rev 1.3 and by default it has F3 version of BIOS. For some stupid reason I don't want to disclose, I decided to update it and I did. Now I cannot access BIOS, whenever I try to access it the usual way by pressing DELETE on boot it just sends me to black screen with the cursor _ in the upper left corner blinking, until I restart the PC. My OS boots normally, and I can choose my boot device by going into the Quick Boot, also on-board Q-Flash utility works, and when I tried to clear CMOS by removing the battery I get the menu on boot which asks me which BIOS configuration I want to use (Default or Last Known Configuration). Whichever I choose the problem persists. Also I noticed when clearing CMOS by removing the battery fans work at an increased RPM until I load one of the two given configurations. It's not a big problem since I am seriously thinking about upgrading my PC to a different platform and I can do my tiny overclock in the AMD Overdrive utility, but I am just curios what went wrong. The version of BIOS that I updated to is F4 and there is no older version on GIGABYTE's site. Also I didn't save my previous version of BIOS (I know, I know...). Anyone have any ideas?

02 March to 05 March.

Yep, I was thinking about that forever but can't get myself to do it -.- I'm just so lazy. Just note that 80C temperature was there from day 1 of me buying that mobo 5 years ago, and I can move the heatsink a little since it doesn't seem like it's fixed in place like all the other heatsinks I've seen. It's on some kind of springs, not bolted or whatever.

I have GA-770T-D3L motherboard and Phenom II x4 955 BE processor. Motherboard is revision 1.x if I'm not mistaken and processor is revision C3. I overclocked it to 3.8GHz at +0.025v (1.425v) for who knows how long, maybe 4-5 years, if not more. Now the problem is that I experience 20+ loss in FPS when I'm using Windows 10 opposing to Windows 7. For instance average FPS in CS:GO on Win 7 is 170 while on Windows 10 it's 145. I know this doesn't seem like much but I can really feel the difference because at some points FPS dips below 70 and you can really feel it. I need to keep it above 128. The FPS difference is noticeable in other games too (H1Z1, POE, World of Tanks, etc.) It's pissing me off because I really want to use Windows 10 and I tried every single software trick and setting in order to bring it back to Win 7 performance but I wasn't able to do so. Until I overclocked my Northbridge. With 200MHz (2200MHz) clock I got 10 fps, and with +600MHz (2600MHz) clock I got 30+ FPS and I can feel the games are working even better than before with system also feeling snappier (maybe just a placebo effect). Now my problem is that HWMonitor is showing NB temperature of 82 degrees C while NB IS NOT overclocked (2000MHz and 1.100v not sure on the default voltage 1.1 or 1.0). It was this way for 5 years now because I thought it's normal and I had warranty. When I overclock the NB temperature rises by 2 degrees (84C) and is not stable with 1.300v. Now I am scared of increasing voltage because I am getting into the range of max safe voltage which is 1.450 if I'm not mistaken, some people even saying it's same as CPU at 1.550. The temperature is listed as TMPIN2 which I believe is NB, and my TMPIN1 temperature which are said to be VRMs is from 38 to 46 degrees which seems ok. The reason I want to up the voltage on NB is huge stability issues (everything crashing after a few minutes) but my PC wont even boot at lower voltages. I am feeling I'm close on stability EDIT: My CPU is cooled with Noctua NH-D14 and NB is in a really tight spot, but I have a side fan, and I have 3 more additional fans placed for maximum air flow. What do you guys think

Ok, thanks a lot guys.

I have a Xbox 360 Wireless Controller. What would it take for it to work on my PC? Is it bluetooth or some other technology? Can I just buy any bluetooth card? Is there a special USB cable that can be connected to it?