PixelGeek

TL;DR: Is there a such thing as a more powerful Bluetooth controller? I believe that my MOBO's onboard Bluetooth is being saturated by multiple audio streams. Can I have multiple Bluetooth cards in one system? I've been experimenting with connecting multiple Bluetooth speakers (Google Nest Audio to be precise) to my PC instead of using speaker groups in the Google home app because the latency is shockingly terrible. I'm using VoiceMeeter to play from two speakers at once and they sound mostly good, but if I connect a third speaker all three stutter and crackle. At first I figured it was VoiceMeeter or something to do with the speakers. But then I noticed that when I balance out one channel from all speakers, I can get them all to work properly. I send them less information, the stuttering goes away, that, to me, sounds like a bandwidth problem. Do you guys agree? I also just noticed that my Bluetooth mouse stutters slightly when I play music through all three speakers. Overclocked Bluetooth module mayhapse??? I really need to just buy some Sonos speakers or literally any speaker from any manufacturer that allows mesh connectivity, these Google speakers were just on sale for a killer price given their sound quality.

Yes, that is correct.

I have a Denon AVR-540BT under my bed in my bedroom that runs my 5.1. In my previous set-up, the receiver could switch from my Xbox to TV (Samsung Q60A 32") audio with no problems. Completely automatically. Now that I've replaced that Xbox with a PC, the receiver will still automatically switch to TV audio when I open Smarthub, but when I re-select the receiver input on the TV, the receiver will not switch back to the PC automatically. Is there something that I can do to fix this?

Okay, I've heard rumors about these monitors having bad QC, but this one I've had for about a year and it's been just great! I transplanted my monitor from it's factory stand to a fancy monitor arm. After taking off the stand, placing the monitor lightly on my bed, then slotting it on to my arm, it now no longer powers on. No status LED, no screen activity. Nothing. The troubleshooting steps that I've taken so far: I've switched what port of the UPS it's plugged in to. Switched the power cable. Held the power button for an inordinate amount of time. Unplugged all the other cables except the power cable, in hopes that one of them had shorted out and the monitor was in some kind of safety mode. I know that the cable is making contact and that something is happening inside the monitor, with just the monitor plugged in, my UPS reports a 3w power draw, with the monitor unplugged, no power draw. When I plug in to the back of the monitor, I can hear arcing between the contacts, I've never noticed that before, then again, I haven't unplugged this monitor much. I have all night and any help would be appreciated. I really love this monitor and if it's kaput, I don't think I can go back.

Been a fun few hours. I'm all up and running with everything working. Turns out, the 500 series chipset can't utilize the iGPU when windows is running in MBR. And since I enabled Multi-GPU, the system refused to detect my MBR windows. Soooo, I used AOMEI to switch to GPT. After that, Multi-GPU now works, and everything is right in the world.

CPU: 10900k GPU: MSI GTX 1080 MINI Mobo: ROG Maximus XIII Hero Boot Drive: Samsung 970 EVO w/ Windows 10 Pro My PC is in the living room, and I'd wanted to be able to run my main PC monitor off my dedicated GPU, and the living room TV, off my iGPU, after removing my GPU, turning on iGPU Multi-Monitor, and putting the GPU back in, no windows. None at all. Since this problem started, I've messed with all the Secure Boot and CSM options none of them do anything, and I've even loaded all the default settings, although, when I bought it, the board didn't boot in to Windows, I had to disable CSM This isn't a problem with the drive being detected, the board sees it just fine, it's the board not detecting windows, any help would be appreciated. I have the windows installation tool, already whipped up, if I have to reinstall Windows, I have to format the drive. Start-up repair is useless, but it does have that command prompt option. Any ideas? I don't know what to put.

That's what I figured. Thank you for the conformation. Don't know what could have fried, but I guess that it will forever be a mystery... I know that alcohol would have been better, but it's already dead, I just wanted to clean it to look for corrosion.

Howdy, I need a person that knows their electronics. My Butt Kicker Amplifier is shorting out, likely from an unidentifiable residue, it blew its fuse and made my UPS up go in to protection mode. The residue in picture 1 is like a dust, that has no smell. I haven't been doing any kind of home renovation, and the amp sits on a rubber mat up on a desk, so it's not just regular dust. Pictures 2-4 shows the board after I ran it under some hot water with a brush. And picture 4 shows residue around one of the screws. Nothing looks blown, I do see some corrosion, but I'm in no way an electrical engineer. I'm just guessing that it has something to do with this residue.

Found a Revvl 4+ with Metro in the parking lot of the neighborhood Walmart. Took it to the Metro store to get the phone returned to the owner (figured they would have his address, or be able to call him or something), Metro said that he's already shut down this line, and that he has a new phone and that I can keep it, but they refused to factory reset it. So now, LTT forum, I've reset the phone to factory, but in order to finish the set-up process, I need to put in the dudes pin. I don't know his pin. Is there a way that I can make the phone forget that it had a previous owner? I'd hate for a phone that's less than 4 months old to become E-Waste.

This morning, my girlfriend did an LG Backup, and once the phone turned back on after restarting, it crashed after about minute, and entered a boot loop. I brought up the "Factory Reset" menu by pressing the power button and volume down buttons, but she said that she didn't want to reset. After a few minutes of boot looping, it gave up, and now won't even turn on. I held the power button for a full minute and nothing happened. No Vibrate, no action from the screen. I've already opened the phone and disconnected the battery, but that did a whole lot of nothing. Help me LTT forums, you're my only hope.

Perfect. Thank you!

What's the opposite of hyper threading? TL;DR: My 4 core i7-2600 is only using 2 of its cores. help. My dad just bought a used Dell Optiplex 990. The sales man claimed that it was "very fast". Every where i look, the computer gives me conflicting answers. This computer is for 3D modeling, so not having all cores present is not an option. I just did a BIOS update, that did nothing. In the BIOS, all 4 cores aren't showing up (Picture 1). Yet, it acknowledges that it has 4 cores (Picture 2). HWinfo says that it has 4 cores, but the little CPU activity window only shown two cores working (Picture 3).

How about this one?https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L7UZMAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TL;DR: I did some maintenance to my AIO, now my PC barely works 'cause of thermals. I think that there is air in the pump. Should I try to fix it, or just get a new cooler? Would a good air cooler be a better replacement? In 2014, my brother became the lucky owner of an Alienware Area 51 R2, outfitted with an i7-5820k. Recently, he got a laptop and he prefers to use it for gaming. Since I adopted the R2, I decided to give it a real upgrade, A GTX1080, and do some overclocking to squeeze out as much performance as possible. I managed to get a stable overclock at ~4.2ghz (that 5820k really still is a beast), but after running cinebench, I noticed some epic thermal throttling back town to ~2.5ghz. I thought perhaps the thermal compound had gone bad, and it would be good practice to replace it. Also, the radiator/case fan was absurdly loud at full crank, so I wanted to replace that too. After replacing the thermal compound, instead of better performance, the CPU throttles at idle down to ~0.8ghz. The computer is unusable. The cooler is the factory one, a K31VH 0K31VH. A 120mm AIO. I made sure I mounted the cooler level to the CPU. I can hear the crackling of air somewhere in the loop. My guess is that when I took the cooler off, the air trapped in the radiator made its way to the pump. Any way to remedy this? Should I? I heard that for the most part, 120mm AIOs are pretty useless, and I'm better off with a big ol' air cooler. I'm probably gonna have to replace the cooler anyways, since this one if pretty old, and running with barely any water in the pump can't be good for it.

I have an LG V35 that I got for my birthday, since it's an old AT&T phone, unlocked for T-Mobile, it has some weird quirks, for instance, I can't send or receive MMS, I sometimes have to manually connect to nearby mobile networks, my Youmail doesn't work, and I have all the AT&T bloat ware. I am willing to factory reset, if it'll help. Does anybody know? I assume that rooting would help, but there's no simple process for the v35.