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SiG

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  1. I just tried OpenRGB. I do use a Gigabyte AORUS PRO AX motherboard, but unlike what you described, after setting the color and closing the app, the set color remains until the next reboot. I kind of just want it to "run after startup and close" automatically, without remaining in the background if only to keep the LEDs from being so eye-searingly bright. I did a web search on possible solutions, but the literal "2 methods of how to auto load and terminate OpenRGB.exe" is gated behind a private reddit link... (i.e. won't allow me to view said content) Edit: Apparently it's a built-in setting, but "Start At Login" has to be enabled: Seem to work just as intended. After seeeing the colors change, checking my Task Manager shows it not staying in the background. Fantastic!
  2. When building my PC, there were some components that unfortunately came with RGB lighting, such as my motherboard. While I could disable them from the UEFI/BIOS, I found the fact that some light turning on after POST was a very useful way to tell if a component is functioning properly. With that said, it remains in the static amber light that could prove distracting in particular low-light scenarios. Truth be told, I dislike RGB control apps since they expend precious CPU cycles on something compltely cosmetic. It's like Achievements in games: they're especially distracting when they pop out of nowehere so that my own system could patronize me, which is why I highly dislike them. At the same time, the amber light can be eye-searing in a dark room, especially when trying to watch a movie on my setup. I was looking into both OpenRGB and SignalRGB, and while Linus Media Group openly sponsors SignalRGB, I've heard reports of it being process intensive similar to other RGB control apps, whereas OpenRGB is intentionally lightweight. I'm just looking for something to turn the eyesearing amber into something like a static dim white or something that doesn't attract attention to itself (i.e "gamery"). I really don't need something to be pulsating, blinking, or any bling effects.
  3. An update on the situation: I managed to have successfully contacted Momo about the situation. I hope nobody has to endure the same experience as I have by doing something as stupid as scanning a Discord QR code to verify you aren't a bot. I am still awaiting the verdict regarding if they will reinstate my access to the Discord again. Edit: Apparently they don't do appeals currently.
  4. Man, that's a shame. It's sucks I got permabanned due to this incident caused by phishing and not have a way to restore it.
  5. I recently joined a community on Discord that, just moments after having joined them, got hacked by a bot. The aforementioned bot would ask the user to "verify that they were human" by scanning a QR code displayed on the channel itself (this never happened before). The stupid in me assumed that the channel merely "desyned" and scanned said QR code, despite the warnings of the Discord app itself to never scan any QR codes ciming from 3rd parties. Alas, the moment I had, my account started spamming invites to this particular Discord channel, in every single channel I was joined to. I have gotten blocked and banned in many of these channels, one of which was LTT. Luckily, my account was protected by 2FA, and was able to gain control over my account and chagne the passwords before any more damage could be done. Still, the mess it had left in its wake has left me explaining to several moderators that my account had been momentarily compromised. I'm now trying to get an appeal to the LTT Discord, of which I seemed to have been permanently banned due to this phishing hack. I've trired searching for the appropriate Discord contact, from LMG Warship#9104 to Momo#1111 , but my messages would be blocked all the same. I wanted to know how to get in touch with the appropriate people to be able to appeal for a ban that was caused due to a compromised account. Am I going to be forced to purge my Discord account for it? I honestly don't think it will work since it will be tied to e-mails and IP Addresses.
  6. Wow...um, that price of the 6600 I was eying just dropped to $389. I know I should probably wait more but the 3060s still haven't budged from their prices.
  7. Perhaps you didn't read the OP post. I believe Founders Edition cards do not come in 200mm or less length variants. Unless they aren't Founders Edition but board partner cards. Has Nvidia ever release an ITX Founders Edition card? Also I'm planning on the 6600, not the 6500.
  8. Aww... I guess the $400 for a 6600 would be a good deal then, or perhaps I should wait until April to make my choice?
  9. What was the brand of the 3060 that you were able to see at $400 by any chance?
  10. I see. Well at least I have more options depending on how low the pices drop. From what I understand, the 6600's start around $380 and 3060 was about...$400 at MSRP? I'm guessing I'm seeing myself spend around $380-400 + adjusted inflation, which means if I see a 3060 at $500 I should probably take it, as opposed to seeing the 6600 at the same price right now?
  11. I see. I stand corrected then. I guess E:D's system requirement only increases with every expansion update. And yeah, this is why I didn't necessarily want to go with the 3060 per se, as both the CPU bottleneck and the power spikes might make it seem like the part would be better invested in a newer rig. I might settle for the RX 6600 or 2060 in the end due to its lower price and also the fact that I only have a PCI Gen3 motherboard and I end saving up a bit for the investment onto my newer rig. But if the 3060 does become affordable I'll probably still snag it... (I do wonder how long it'll be till Gen5 becomes the new standard.)
  12. I understand all the limitations of my current rig. But upgrading all of its components is a lot less cost effective than just building myself a new rig. The cost of building a new rig is very very pricey though, and will take me some time before I can muster up the investment, but still much cheaper than replacing every single part of my current rig, since I know there's more room to optimize my design (plus there are newer cases out there that suite my needs better). The short term solution will be to upgrade my GPU to something reasonable like a 6600 or 2060/3060, and just start earning up for a brand new rig with PCIe Gen 5 support or something to future proof it, rather than spend the money upgrading the motherboard and CPU and have a frankenstein of a PC. Plus I don't quite agree if core counts are what make Elite Dangerous run faster, as I'm able to run the game above 100 or even 200 at times while on flight. It's only certain segments on-foot where it tends to drop, probably owing to some newer GPU effects. Yeah, there's that whole thing too about mismatched read/write speeds. I am kind of weary about taking that risk, plus the whole SSD failure thing with it being used and all. (I should've invested in a Drobo, but that's beside the point )
  13. Hmm, interesting. My issue with using another external power plug has more to do with my current surge protector having to take up a plug for my rig + 3 additional plugs for my monitors, and an additional plug for my speakers. Having my PSU also power the hard drive helps cut down on needing more plugs, plus it turns it off when the system is not in use. (Some of my USB powered external drives do this, provided there wasn't any catastrophic power fluctuation due to black out.) If I can find the external HDD housing you've mentioned that runs entirely on USB, I'll consider it a very viable option. I wonder if there are ones that support USB 3.1. My current PSU is a Corsair 600W SF Gold. Hey, thanks for the advice! I might hunt these down while I wait for prices on GPUs to drop.
  14. As I said, the external housing will require an external power supply...Or are you saying there are USB powered external housings that can fully power an HDD using USB power alone? (I wouldn't mind if you told me where to find these, actually...) Another option I'm considering is getting a 4TB SSD as a "replacement", which would solve the space issue and perhaps even speed up start up times. My only issue will be finding a reliable SSDs outside of Samsungs that will be cheap, and not to mention this will be adding to the overall cost to the upgrade... Considering the GPUs I'm looking for and the rest of the components (not to mention my motherboard is only PCIe Gen3.0), and what you're asking for is total system overhaul, which, essentially, is a brand new rig. And that is not the purpose of this post... The purpose of this post it to find a suitable replacement for the R9 Nano given size constraints.
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