Phreaqinn

Yeah, it's odd. I'm assuming it's perhaps Hardware acceleration within Chrome as some of the custom settings I had in the ://flags section that maybe were just conflicting which in result was crashing my display drivers or something. I reset all of my Flags and disabled hardware acceleration, so hopefully that's a fix

It's a 970m so, I really doubt it's the lack of power to run the multiple screens, as well as I was doing it before on an older notebook with a 755m and never had a problem. Just clean installed the NVidia drivers again and disable hardware acceleration within Chrome so maybe that will fix

Okay, so I bought a new notebook about a week ago and clean installed Windows 10 and everything onto it. For the second night in a row, while watching Netflix, the computer has gone into a frozen state where the screen where Netflix was full screen (Monitor 1 of 2) goes green and the other just goes black, and the audio goes into a really fast pulsating-like loop noise. The first night, it did it for about 5 seconds until it rebooted, but it didn't blue screen or give any errors messages, as well, I ran who crashed and no dumps were found. Second night, it happened again the exact same way except no reboot, so after 2 minutes of it being frozen, I had to manually shut it down with the power button. Anyone ever experienced this before or have a solution or a reason why?

I use my laptop basically every day, but really don't take it from my desk so it stays plugged in 95% of the time. Would it be better to remove the battery while plugged in, or is leaving it plugged in with the battery perfectly okay and won't harm anything?

Okay, so I just got a new laptop that has a 6700HQ CPU with 530HD Graphics and a 970m with 6GB of VRAM (I paid for 3GB, but whatever). Considering the display ports are running off the built-in graphics, is there any benefit of having the 6GB of VRAM since if I was to run multiple displays, lets say 4k, that they wouldn't be using the GPU but the onboard?

So, I just got a new laptop in the mail with no OS and have an 8.1 Professional USB Key that I am planning on clean installing, then upgrading to Windows 10. Would there be any benefit in upgrading to Windows 10 and then clean installing Windows 10 from the installation media, or would upgrading from a clean-installed OS be basically the same thing?

I have tried to find reviews on Eurocom and their notebook's quality and their customer service. I have found little, but what I have found has been slightly towards the negative side, but all these reviews/complaints were from 3 years ago or more. HardwareCanucks did two video reviews on two of their notebooks and they were highly regarded, which makes me very interested in buying one. More or less, I wanna know if anyone has bought one recently (within the last two years or so) and what their opinion is on them. I live in Canada so buying from outside Canada is sadly a lot more expensive because of shipping, duties, and conversion, so I'd rather buy from Canada. If someone has a suggestion of another Notebook (Sager/Clevo) reseller in Canada or another brand all together, I would appreciate it.

Looking at getting a notebook for a little gaming and school. Was thinking about getting this. Do you think it is worth it for the price? Basically, I wanna know if there would be a better deal somewhere else or if this is pretty good price for what is listed. Also, knockoff 10% of that price (roughly $200) because of the student discount they would be providing.

Alright, so i'm trying to achieve the audio quality you hear from the DJ on the radio. I know it's a mix of compression, mixing, and the voice itself. But how do I exactly go about this? I don't wanna do software compression because I want it real time... So what's a good compressor or mixer for the cheap that will help achieve this?

At home, just on my desk.

But do you have any recommendations on what is good and worth the money?

On a notebook; Lenovo y410p. Probably not the best, or is it?

Just ordered a pair of M50Xs but wanna grab a DAC because my on board one is average. I'm not very knowledgeable on DACs/AMPs but from what I've gathered, if you use a DAC, you need an AMP too? Either way, I'm looking for a budget-friendly ($100 or so) great sounding DAC (AMP COMBO?) USB to 3.5mm or 1.4.

Alright, pretty simple but I'm looking for a new pair of over-ear headphones. Preferably closed-back for this situation. I own a pair of Shure SE 215 and love the accuracy so I would like something similar to those, but with a lot more "kick". I want something accurate, but with lots of kick-not over powering or muddy, but no recessed, either. I know many recommend the ATH M50xs but I've read a lot that they too are not heavy on the bass. I'm just looking for something not too expensive, around the price range of the M50Xs but with some more umph.

Like, for their website. Which model/specs do you think you would personally go with/suggest?