Puffhead

The CFExpress card advertises peak reads of 1700MB/s, and writes of 1480MB/s. The reader is "USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C Interface (10 Gb/s)" All regular USB ports on the 3 computers while using a USB 3.0 SD card reader and 95MB/s SD card copy to the computers at 90MB/s. These are the same ports that are moving at 40MB/s with the CFexpress reader and card.

Hi guys! I bought a Delkin USB 3.2 CFExpress card reader (DDREADER54) and a Sony 128GB Tough CFexpress card (CEBG128/J) for a Nikon Z6. I'm seeing speeds capped at about ~45MB/s copying data from the card to three different computers (all SSDs), with all different types of cables using the card reader listed previously. Is there something I don't know about CFexpress or Type-c that I'm missing here, or does there seem to be an issue with my card reader? I can shoot plenty of images in a row before the buffer on the z6 fills up, so im assuming its the reader and not the card. Here's what computer/cable combos I've tested so far. 2019 XPS 15: Included type C cable to type C port: doesn't work Own type C cable to type C port: 40MB/s Included USB cable, left port: 40MB/s Included USB cable, right port: 40MB/s Oneplus type-c cable to type c port: 40MB/s USB3 SD card reader with 130MB/s SD card in it: 90MB/s Intel NUC: Included USB cable: 40MB/s 9900k/MSI z360 Tomahawk: Included USB cable into 10GB USB port: 40MB/s Included type c: doesn't work Own type c to type-c cable: 40MB/s I just downloaded Ubutnu 20.04.1, a 2GB ISO file. Copied it from an the Internal SSD on my XPS 15 to the CFExpress card, and it transferred at 40MB/s. I then copied it back to my computer and it was still capped at just above 40MB/s.

Hi guys! Looking to switch to linux full time but I'd like to get some input on how to manage the following things that I think may cause me some issues. Any advice for overcoming these hurdles would be appreciated. For context, my hardware: 9900k 32GB DDR4 2060 1TB NVME SSD 500GB SSD for games 8TB HDD Photo/Data Drive 1TB HDD Drive for gameplay videos/misc data Caveats: I'm a photographer. I need windows software (not necessarily the adobe stuff). This is a requirement. In my opinion, the open source alternatives aren't that good, so I'll need to figure out how to virtualize a few programs. Likely Affinity Photo and ACDSee. Virtualbox performance worries me. Every time I virtualize windows 10 on windows 10, it's a stuterry mess. Then again that was all with vbox defaults, can this be made *much* better with GPU passthrough? For offsite backups, I've been using backblaze at $6 a month to backup 5TB of data off that single 8TB drive. They only allow you do back up unlimited data if it's a regular drive plugged in to mac/windows. I feel bad trying to find a way around this, but can't justify their B2 yet at $25/month. Is there a creative way to still back up that drive through the backblaze software in a windows VM? That one 8TB drive I have is a fully encrypted with veracrypt NTFS container, and I need full access to it. Will a linux distro be able to handle that filesystem? I've really enjoyed shadowplay and it's replay feature for recording games, hows the OBS buffer replay handle feature as a substitute? Peripherals: Wireless Logitech G602 Mouse Wireless Corsair Void RGB Corsair K70 Keyboard Games I play: CSGO - Linux compatible BF5 - Linux compatible Rocket League - Linux compatible Garrys Mod - Linux compatible Black ops 3 - Not compatible Apex Legends - Not compatible The new CoD MW - Not compatible

Hi there! I'm looking to spend about $450-$550 on two monitors. Price is an important factor here and if I need to sacrifice something to meet the price, so be it. I'm looking to pick up one monitor for gaming, and one for photo work. Do any of you have any recommendations for models that fit the bill? The slimmer the bezels the better, and I also need vesa mount support on both. For the gaming monitor: 144hz AdaptiveSync compatible (I have a 1070) 25-27 inches 1080p is fine For the photo monitor: 1440p/4k 27 inches Color accurate Thanks so much!

Hi there, I'm having some weird issues with a hard drive and veracrypt. I fully encrypted a non-system drive with a standard veracrpyt volume and sometimes after I wake my computer up from sleeping, my drive that I have completely encrypted will not show up in veracrypt, nor will the drive show up in windows. I can't mount the drive in veracrypt because it isn't detected in windows. Normally how it works successfully is the drive will show up in windows as "Local Disk (D:)" and when I try to access it via the file explorer, I get an error. I then mount the drive to the letter Z: in veracrypt and boom, all my data is there, working fine on that drive. When this issue occurs and I boot from off, or wake from sleep, there's no D drive in explorer, so I cant mount that drive in veracrypt. Sometimes rebooting fixes this issue, sometimes it doesn't. Also, my main C drive is an in encrypted system partition that requires me to enter my password before the bios screen appears. I have the third pin on the drive taped with kapton tape as widely suggested. https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/7fx0i0/wd_easystore_8tb_compendium/ I'm unable to accurately reproduce this issue, it's not *every* time I wake the computer from sleep, or turn the machine on. Computer information: -Windows 10 Education 1803 x64 -Veracrypt 1.23 Hotfix 2 -White label easystore 8TB drive -Drives set to never spin down in windows power settings. What are my next steps to troubleshooting this?

Hi guys! Quick configuration question that I'll bet one of you can solve in a snap. I've got an R710 I'm looking to install pfsense on via virtualbox on an ubuntu 18.04 base. My cables are connected in the following configuration: I have my modem from my ISP connected to the first of four Ethernet ports, then a connection from the r710 to my wireless router in the first LAN port (IP: 192.168.1.2, with a default gateway of 192.168.1.1), which is acting as a WiFi access point. The Guide I've followed for config settings is here: https://blog.ostermiller.org/configuring-second-router-wifi-access-point-using-tomato-shibby/ Settings in virtualbox have been copied from here: https://samuraihacks.com/install-pfsense-in-virtualbox/ Then I have my main windows 10 desktop connected directly to the third Ethernet port on the r710. When this is configured this way, I'm unable to access 192.168.1.1, the static IP of the pfsense installation from my main workstation, which makes... no sense to me. When I'm hardwired in to the wifi router/access point, and I go to 192.168.1.2, I can access the router. One thing I've noticed, is I'm also not getting a WAN IP address showing after I assign the interfaces. em0 as the wan, em1 as the LAN. The LAN IP shows as 192.168.1.1, and the WAN IP is blank, there isn't one. Any pointers would be welcomed, thanks in advance!

Hi there! My friend is currently running a homemade react & python application on the small $5 instance of digitalocean. It's currently online and only used by the two of us for testing purposes. We're planning on putting the site up for the internet to use in the coming weeks, but because it's just the two of us, we can't get an idea of what we'll need for server horsepower/RAM/bandwidth if it's being hit by lots of people concurrently. Is there any way to benchmark this and get a rough idea of the requirements, or estimate what we'll need to be able to handle a load of 100 users at a time, for example? I do have a server at home that definitely has the power, and the site wouldn't hold any sensitive information, but I don't feel safe exposing my hardware and network to the internet, and dealing with the additional work that comes with that. Also, we're trying to keep the hosting/server costs down, as this site will likely generate no revenue. Any of you have any smart ideas to get an idea for what we would need hardware wise? Here's the code: https://github.com/AlmightyYakob/AstroPlanner-ui https://github.com/AlmightyYakob/AstroPlanner-api

Hi there! I'm looking for a sound card (I assume) that comes with good software that will allow me to switch from speakers to wireless usb headphones easily. The speakers are the cheaper logitech 5.1 z506's, and the headphones are the corsair 2100's. I'd like to have both plugged in, and be able to switch easily between the two. I should elaborate that switching currently doesn't work (Dont ask) What do I need?

US. So I could activate this on VM?

Oh man! I saw tek-syndicates review of this phone, I doughnut understand how it could only be $199. What carriers could I use with it?

Hi there! I've currently been with Virgin Mobile for the past 8 months with an LG Volt that I have loved, which today I dropped in a stream (And am currently attempting to dry out in rice) Now lets say I have to get a new phone to replace it, what can I do for carriers and phones? I'm looking to pay $200 (OFF contract) at most for the phone, and $40/ month for service. Unlimited texting, and some amount of data (unlimited would be nice, but isn't necessary) are needed. I also need to port my number over. What can I do? Any suggestions? I like virgin mobile, but it's either $500 for the S6 or $70 for a replacement, but I'd personally like an upgrade of a phone. Edit: United States

Hi there, I'll be traveling out to the university soon and I'll obviously want to protect my stuff. I plan on bringing my main rig, a laptop, and plenty of photography equipment. Do any of you guys know good ways to keep them safe when not in use? And is insurance for that a thing? It's about $3500 worth of stuff.

Hi there, I own myself a pair of Corsair 2100's, and with that comes some (albeit, terrible) software that allows you to create custom levels for the headset. I'm looking to have some help modifying my settings here, preferably - one setting for gaming, hearing footsteps and things like that in CSGO/DayZ, and then another profile with slightly amped-up bass for music listening. What settings do I want to tweak, and where to achieve this?

So is there a way to overwrite/add that ONE file, without reinstalling all of windows? (Can't boot into safe mode)

So I've got a problem with a friends PC I built. He has shitty.unreliable electricity where he lives, so keep that in the back of your head. He also has a lower end PC, fx4300/7770. Supposedly while there was a windows update, his breaker blew and shut all his power off, now he's getting a screen with an error "OLEAUT32.dll" is missing This happens in safe mode aswell. Any ideas of steps I should take to diagnose this?