alpettit04

Pardon the mess. Still organizing everything.

This is my first ever water-cooled build. I've been saving up and working on the computer for over a year and a half now. Finally what I would consider done. Parts: Inteli7-6700k (4.7Ghz) ASUS Maximus VIII EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC2 Hydro Copper Corsair Vengeance LPX (DDR4 3000 CL 15) Samsung 950 Pro 512GB Toshiba 3TB 7200RPM Corsair HX850i Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow BD Burner Water Cooling: EK Supremacy Evo EVGA built in Hydro Copper EK 280 and 360 Rads FrozenQ LF Reaction Res (UV Green) D5 Pump Alphacool Top Corsair SP 120 fans Corsair AF 140 fans 10/14 Hardline Tubing XSPC Fittings Custom: Cable Mod Hybrid RGB/UV led strips Self sleeved PSU cables (I will NEVER do this again) Stealth mod for BD writer Painted Corsair fan rings Painted case cables (USB and Audio we're rainbow) Painted BD drive (outside black, back green) Top PSU sticker removed PSU side Vinyl wrapped Serial number sticker covered with little square of vinyl ASUS Q Code light covered with vinyl wrap (why is this red with an RGB board?!) Peripherals: Acer Predator Z35P (35" 3440x1440 120hz ultrawide VA panel with GSync) Razer Black Widow Chroma Razer Death Adder Chroma Razer Firefly Mousepad (came free with the keyboard) Klipsch Pro Media 2.1 Speakers Oculus Rift

Just as an update: Bought the Aqua Pipe 2, but the spiral in the res was in the way, so I used a pipe cutter to cut the length in about half. The plastic end of the spiral also was a but in the way, so I opened it up and cut out room for it. So now it fits in perfect, you can't see any modifications, and the pipe is still long enough to dip into the water with a full res.

Ah! Thanks so much guys! The EK one would be perfect, but I think the thread will take up too much room on the res top. The Bitspower link is the Aqua Pipe which doesn't have the female thread, the Aqua Pipe 2 is the one with the female threads, which I found from searching the Aqua Pipe. Performance-PC's has it in stock. Thanks again guys! Very helpful community.

Thanks for the name. This should make searching a bit easier. EK stuff should be pretty easy to get in the states as well.

Thanks for the links! These look promising!

I have a FrozenQ Double Helix Res

MeI have a large tube reservoir and at the moment I have one super long, horribly bent, hardline tube going from the bottom of the res to the top of the case. I'd like to move the inlet to the top, but don't want to hear the trickle/splashing. I have seen a fitting with a little tube on the end of it which gets inserted into the reservoir to make the inlet below the water level. I found a link to one, but the link was dead, and I cannot for the life of me figure out what the type of fitting is called, or where to buy one. I know Bitspower makes one if that helps. Here is a picture for reference. http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1508365/ This one would probably work, but if you know of and with a bit shorter of a tube that would be great too, otherwise I can cut that one down. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Just to follow up, I pinned this cable that same as a different one and it works perfectly. Thanks!

Okay, makes sense. Thanks guys! Can you think of any other layouts that would produce a clean look? If not I can just go with the original one with the tube running down by the reservoir.

Sorry for my garbage MS Paint skills. If you guys need any additional info let me know.

Hey guys! So I have a question about a custom loop confiiguration I have not yet seen. It seems a lot of people who have cylinder reservoirs have the water inlet at the tup of the tube. I don't want to do this because Based on my quick test having the inlet on top seems to cause some bubbles and I can hear the water flowing into the cyclinder like a tiny little faucet. Because of this I decided I would have both the inlet and outlet be at the bottom and just leave the top for a fill port. I have a 360 rad, 240 rad, cylinder res, D5 type pump with acryllic top, motherboard with built in block (ASUS formula), CPU block, and GPU block. They are in the configuration shown in picture 1. My first Idea was to just run the tubing (PETG) down the side of the res and then bend it back into the bottom as shown in the second picture. After thinking for a while I thought maybe I could get rid of that huge run beside the reservoir and clean it up a bit. That is where a came up with the idea in the second picture. I know that having graphics cards that are in SLI work with a parallel loop, but I have never seen anyone expand the parallelism any further than graphics cards. I am like 85% sure that having the mobo block, one rad, cpu block running in paralel to the GPU block would work, but before I wast my time and tubing I thought I would get your guys' opinions since I have never actually seen anyone do it. Do you thing this kind of loop would work? Thanks for the help

The whole story (optional read): Well, I have been foolish again. I decided I would sleeve my cables on my new build, but wanted some practice fist as I had never done it before. I used my current computer as a guinea pig. The first cable that I did was a PCI-e cable (modular) because it seemed the easiest. I foolishly decided that I didn't need to make a wiring diagram and would instead simply just sleeve one wife at a time. Problem came up when I broke the pin on one of my wires. I figured, "hey, I can remember where just one wire went" so I continued to sleeve merrily. Well then I'm the middle of sleeping a wire I had to stop. Came bach the next day and couldn't remeber where the broken cable went and where the cable I was in the middle of went. From here I took one of the other PCI-e and just wires the one I was working on in the same way. Interesting thing was I had to move some of the wires I had already placed. I took a look at my other PCI-e cables and all three are wired differently. The connectors for all 4 cables are exactly the same. The PSU labels the pins as 2 grounds and 6 12 volts. The grounds all go to the same place. My question: If a PCI-e cable is wired in the exact same was as a different PCI-e cable for the same power supply with the exact same connectors will it still work even though it is different from that cords original pinout? I effectively cloned one of the other PCI-e cables. Will this work and will it cause any harm to my system? Additional info: PSU: OCZ Z Series Semi-Modular 850W 80+ Gold GPU: Evga GeForce GTX 780 FTW in 2 way SLI Thanks guys!

So, it seems as though they fixed some stuff with the V2, but I can't find any specifics on it. I haven't seen anyone say their V2 leaks, but I am still very skeptical. Should I just return it and get a different one or should I try this one out? I saw a bitspower one that was clear. If it were to leak would it leak right away and be noticeable or would it likely be several months, go completely unnoticed, and drip all over everything?