vagabond139

Its OEM is Seasonic but the 550 watt and 650 watt ones are different than the 850 and 1050 watt ones.

Its a decent unit, it just can't compete with the likes of its bigger brothers (the 1050 and 850 watt GS), the Evga G2/P2/T2, Corsair RMx/RMi, Corsair AXi, Seasonic Prime, Seasonic X, Seasonic Silent Snow, etc.

The GS definitely isn't a top grade unit.

The Redux fans have weak static pressure.since they are made for airflow not a radiator or a heatsink so they would perform worse than the stock fans..

Its a super tower with room for 2 X 480mm rads and more. If you aren't doing a huge custom loop or something of that nature you are just putting the case to waste. Its like buying a warehouse to store some boxes you have or buying a Lamborghini but never driving it fast.

Well are you looking for silence, all the airflow you can get without a care about noise, or a nice balance between the two also size.

Yes but its a fairly old cooler, no good reason to buy it anymore.

I have one. Its fairly good. I've gotten a A8 6600K to 5Ghz at 1.55V although I did switch out fans for much more powerful ones. Its a fairly good cooler overall and imo looks great but if you are in the US I would go for the Scythe Fuma instead since its arguably is the best HSF out there.

That all depends on the game and graphical settings.

Use AMDOverdrive to get the temperature.

Gelid Extreme for your normal paste and for the absolute best Coolaboratory Liquid Pro.

Intel recommends no higher than 1.4V and MSI recommends no higher than 1.48V so I would say anything 1.5V and below is safe for long term use. The CPU is going to be obsolete before its lifespan is a issue if you don't go insane with the voltage.

The Seasonic S12II is a what I would call worse than the 450 watt CXM. I would just go for the 450 watt or 550 watt CXM if you are on a budget.

Well you do have a 1080mm rad haha.

Its fine. intel recommends no higher than 1.4V, MSI recommends no higher than 1.48V, and your CPU will be obsolete before the lifespan of it is a issue provided you aren't running at 1.6V or anything else insanely high.

Bottlenecking all depends on the game and graphical settings. There is no yes or no answer to this without knowing the game and graphical settings.

The position of the rad isn't going to drastically change the temperature of the CPU. Maybe a few C at most.

Its glass. Its not going to break if you knock on it but if you drop it you are shit out of luck and will have a huge mess to clean up.

Bottlenecking isn't a black and white thing. Bottlenecking all depends on the game and graphical settings and if you graphical and performance goals are met then its pointless. Even a i7 6950X is capable of bottlenecking a GTX 1080 depending on the game.

Its a good unit. Not great though.

Sorry for the hard to read text. Its 5AM here. I overclocked through the BIOS. Its a Gigabyte A88X UP4.

http://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2099-intel-chipset-comparison-z170-h170-h110 https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Z170-H170-H110-B170-Q150-Q170---What-is-the-Difference-635/ http://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/799-understanding-chipsets-what-is-a-chipset

According to AMD Overdrive my 860K isn't a AMD CPU or it isn't supported.This happened just after I tried adjust my baseclock 1Mhz higher although I did set it back to default speed after it wouldn't boot properly. I am puzzled what could be causing this. Its not a huge deal since my CPU is actually holding me back from overclocking and not my CPU cooler so I don't have to worry about temperatures but its going to bother me that I can't use it. I honestly clueless about this. Maybe its Windows that is causing this.

Its the older one sadly.

I'm talking about the PSU.