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Strayan_Hades

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Posts posted by Strayan_Hades

  1. On 2/26/2024 at 2:36 PM, Omon_Ra said:

    Having the in-ceiling speakers makes the Atmos upgrade considerably easier/logical. If you have floorspace or console space beside your TV, you just need some tower/bookshelf speakers to become your front left/right (which IMO is better than in-ceiling anyways, as the sound is pointed straight at you), and your front left/right in-ceilings become proper Atmos height speakers. And then there's also the added bonus of how easy it is to wire for the new fronts as well.

     

    Currently the Yamaha A2A is on sale for $800, versus the regular $1000, and compared to the V6A at $750, IMO it's worth the extra $50. Aventage series has better electronic components and some added features above the V-series and what I think is a better industrial design...but that part is purely cosmetic and up to personal preference. Having said that, all of their new receiver ID is a nice update compared to their older RX AV receivers. Speaker models/brands are kind of irrelevant so don't stress too much about that. As long as they aren't considerably old (10+ years..but even then, many are fine at that age) that the surrounds could be rotting. 99% of in-ceilings will be 8 ohm and be able to handle the 100W of power from the receiver. If they are 6 ohm for whatever reason, you can change that setting in the receiver. Only other thing you'd need is a quality HDMI cable to run from receiver to TV, and you'll be able to use your TV remote for powering everything on/off and volume control. Unless there are other components obviously.

    Awesome. Also just confirming about Hdmi arc function does this mean I just have one Hdmi 2.1 connected to my TV and put all my inputs through the av receiver?  Similar to my current setup with digital audio cable.

  2. On 2/19/2024 at 8:51 AM, Omon_Ra said:

    The big question is what are you connecting to the receiver and what is your budget? What kind of TV/display (new 4K with HDR? or an older 4K without HDR/1080p display), what is your current speaker setup, what devices (Xbox, Playstation, PC, etc) are you using as well? This gets into a chicken-and-egg situation where if you really want the benefit of all the new features receivers have, you could end up needing a new display, additional speakers, and potentially new HDMI cables too (kind of depends on length of runs and other factors).

     

    The lack of ARC on that receiver I can definitely see being annoying, so upgrading to a slightly newer receiver just for that would be nice. If you have a Samsung TV, I do know Samsungs and Yamaha ARC/HDMI-CEC can be a little wacky..the TV will power off the receiver, but turning on the TV won't always turn on the receiver. It depends on what 'input' the TV turns on to, the Samsung TV Plus or whatever they call it, or an HDMI input on the TV.

     

    I personally would stick with Yamaha, any of the models with MusicCast (doesn't need to be the newerest RX-V# series or whatever) will have ARC (or eARC..if Atmos is definitely in your future, eARC is a sure way to make sure it will work between TV/receiver), and MusicCast is IMO the best remote control app for any home audio system. But if you're on a tighter budget, skip the MusicCast and just grab one of these: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_022RXV385/Yamaha-RX-V385.html?tp=179 . Check ebay and other retailers for a variety of options if you do want to expand to Atmos/7.1 channels. If you want Atmos, the receiver will need to be at LEAST 7 channels (Atmos is at minimum 5.1 + 2 'height' speakers, making 7 discrete channels). You will end up needing to get two more speakers and wiring as well.

     

    Let me know if you have other questions or want some specific models/links... I worked as an AV tech for 5+ years so this was a pretty frequent request from clients, but a lot of it depends on your existing setup, budget, and what makes sense to upgrade first.

     

     

    Thank you for reply. So my current setup is 4 in-ceiling speakers, center speaker in-wall and a subwoofer (I'll update model names/details soon). I've been outputing the audio from my Sony Bravia 55inch VH1 to my av receiver with a digital audio cable. An using my Logitech harmony hub and control all my devices. Unfortunately my elite remote is no longer working (Faulty buttons). 

  3. Hi,

     

    Recently after some serve troubleshooting my GPU has decided to kick the bucket after 8 years (Gigabyte 980ti). Issues highlighted in event viewer nvlddmkm and 10016. 

     

    Problem is I'm not sure whether to invest in a new GPU alone or upgrade my dated i7 4790k DDR3 Mobo that still works. (I also bought more DDR3 memory during my troubleshooting) 

     

    I'm aware of bottlenecking when gaming and ridiculous costs PC components at the moment.

     

    Any suggestions or experience with the current PC market would be great. My budgets about $1000.

     

    Cheers

     

     

  4. Hi,

     

    I've being trying to determine what would be the best method of duplicating my PC display to my Office Monitor and Living Room TV. At the moment I've got all my outputs connected to my 980ti GPU via Hdmi 2.0 108p 120hz  and Display port 120hz. Unfortunately I'm encountering graphical glitches when one display is off and black flashes and redetecting the off display. Would a Hdmi splitter better solution? 

     

    Cheers.

     

     

  5. I just noticed a serious privacy issue with Facebook. When just viewing someone profile on Android app it's automatically sent requests to them. At first I thought it was a human error then I couldn't locate the "friend request" or the message to cancel it. Other users on reddit have reported the issue. Now I have all these unsavoury friend suggestions. 

     

    Check your Facebook hasn't been affected, hope this information helps.

     

    Android Authority:

    https://www.androidauthority.com/facebook-send-request-bug-3324254/

     

    Reddit post:

  6. Hi,

     

    I'm just inquiring if anyone has had success with bypassing TPM 2.0 for Windows 11? Suchas Performance, glitches and etc.

     

    An unfortunately due to the current cost of living I can't afford to upgrade my current CPU, CPU Cooler, RAM and MOBO.

     

    Cheers.

     

  7. Hi,

     

    Recently my Asus AC-RT88u wireless router (https://www.asus.com/au/networking-iot-servers/wifi-routers/asus-wifi-routers/rt-ac88u/techspec/) has decided not want to connect via WAN port with my TP-link VX220-G2V. After 10th factory resets and troubleshooting I've given up. 

     

    Moving on I'm now looking at a decent replacement Wireless Router with atleast 4 ethernet ports and WiFi 6 to connect my smart things hub, 2 room with wired ethernet. I was also thinking on buying the same brand to prevent conflicts. ( https://www.tp-link.com/au/home-networking/wifi-router/archer-ax1500/) Possible replacement?

     

    Any help on this would be great.

     

    Cheers.

     

  8. 11 minutes ago, PineyCreek said:

    First question is, do you have it in Wireless Router mode or Access Point mode?  Second question, what does the system log say?  If it's anything like my AX88U, it should have a system log buffer that you can view from the web interface.

    Access Point Mode, I've also attached system log

    syslog.txt

  9. Hi,

     

    I recently had to change to my internet providers modem due to them longer supporting my Asus DSL-AC68u. 

     

    So I'm still using my Asus AC88u Router as an access point but encounting weird crashing with my new TP Link VX220-G2v Modem.

     

    Any help on resolving this issue would be great.

     

    Cheers

  10. Hi,

     

    I wanting to create better airflow in my IKEA Besta Frame 60x40x38cm. I wanting to know whether two exhaust fans would be enough to provide adequate ventilation and cooling.

     

    My concerns are the thin cardboard backing of the cabinet wouldn't be strong enough to hold the exhaust fans.

     

    Any tips or suggestions on modifying the cabinet would be great.

     

    Cheers.

    20220806_172520.jpg

  11. Hi,

     

    I'm currently building an Arcade Machine and wanting to know what would be a suitable monitor.

     

    My budget for the Display is between $200 - $300 AUD

     

    The Arcade Cabinet is planned to allow for four players. So roughly around 25" - 30" 

     

    Any help on this would be great.

     

    Cheers

  12. Hi LTT Community,

     

    Just wanting know whether I could mount a Powerboard to the back of my IKEA Besta Frame?

     

    I know normally I would use traditional screws but the back panel is only 5mm thick but I'm worried about weight of the powerboard with my inputs / powercords connected to it whether it will split the back panel.

     

    Is there another method or would I have to attach another sheet of MDF or different hook/mounting system?

     

    Cheers.

     

    https://www.ikea.com/au/en/p/besta-frame-white-50245849/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_content=free_google_shopping_clicks_Storeandorganisefurniture&gclid=CjwKCAjwuIWHBhBDEiwACXQYsRiedaE5I-bWpnb7bfvgexogFl5VWX3U9J07sIg6x9Rcp-uvQLw4TBoCnfgQAvD_BwE

     

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-grid-connect-smart-5-outlet-powerboard_p0074830

  13. 47 minutes ago, Falcon1986 said:

    My simple approach to this would be to convert the AC88U to AP mode and assign it a static LAN IP outside of the DSL-AC86U’s DHCP pool. That way, any client device that connects to either device, whether wired or wireless, will be on the same network/subnet.

    How do I create a static ip? An I think I have it set to the standard Access point mode.

  14. 42 minutes ago, Falcon1986 said:

    The DSL-AC68U is not just a modem; it's a gateway device, so it is a modem/router combo in the default working mode. The AC88U is a router in it's default working mode.

     

    You've created a double-NAT if you haven't made specific IP address changes. So the reason you can't access one device is likely due to them being on different IP networks/subnets.

    So what would be the best solution? Or am I stuck with double Nat

  15. 1 hour ago, Radium_Angel said:

    ipconfig will give you the addresses you need to access your router

    The modem will have a different IP address, depending on the make/model of it

    Yeah I know the IP's but I can't access the router settings on my Desktop. Because it's directly connected to the modem not the router via Ethernet. So I have to use a wifi enabled device to connect to my router to edit its settings.

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