Jump to content

newfieboy1983

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    31

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

About newfieboy1983

  • Birthday Dec 29, 1983

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197970360904
  • Origin
    Newfieboy25
  • Battle.net
    newfieboy #1146
  • Twitch.tv
    http://www.twitch.tv/jptechcrew
  • Twitter
    https://twitter.com/jptechcrew

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nova Scotia
  • Interests
    Gaming, IT, Tech Support, PC Building
  • Biography
    Just a guy
  • Occupation
    IT Security Analyst

System

  • CPU
    TR 1950X
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Zenith Extreme
  • RAM
    32GB DDR4 @ 3000mhz
  • GPU
    EVGA 1080TI FTW3
  • Case
    Corsair Air 740
  • Storage
    1TB Samsung 850 EVO - 256 GB ADATA 900 SSD + 4TB WD Black
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2
  • Display(s)
    Samsung 34-Inch Curved Screen LED-Lit Monitor S34E790C
  • Cooling
    Enermax Liqtech 360 AIO
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G810
  • Mouse
    Logitech G704
  • Sound
    Audio Technica ATH-M50X
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

615 profile views

newfieboy1983's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

11

Reputation

1

Community Answers

  1. newfieboy1983
    If you need all the features of the Zenith Extreme -- sure go that route. Nothing new in the Motherboard side of things are being released until around Threadripper 2. I have a Zenith Extreme and its a great board, no doubt about that. But if I had to look back, I might have gone with a traditional ATX board like the X399 Taichi, or X399 Prime. The issue with the Zenith Extreme is -- its not really a typical E-ATX motherboard. Its SLIGHTLY larger, and as such a ton of cases with typical E-ATX support are out of consideration -- or have issues with placement.
  2. newfieboy1983
    Pictures can speak a 1000 words. I can see from the pictures above that all those cases do indeed fit the 360mm rads with a thickness of 67mm or more. Its just so very odd that the official docs for the TT View 71 show the following: It shows that after 64mm you run into motherboard clearance issues. I guess ultimately if you were me -- in my shoes -- which case would you pick?
  3. newfieboy1983
    Cooler Master H500P / H500M Top Rad Clearance = 55mm Fractal Design Defiine R6 Top Rad Clearance (without fans) = 35mm Thermal Take View 71 Top Rad Clearance = 60mm This info was found on the product sites, and user/site reviews of the above listed cases.
  4. newfieboy1983
    Cooler Master H500P / H500M Top Rad Clearance = 55mm Fractal Design Defiine R6 Top Rad Clearance (without fans) = 35mm Thermal Take View 71 Top Rad Clearance = 60mm This info was found on the product sites, and user/site reviews of the above listed cases.
  5. newfieboy1983
    Thank you for your suggestions. I've had a few of these on my list and have removed everything except the Lian-Li PC-011D -- but I cannot find it in stock anywhere. The issue with the other cases is there is just not enough room between the top of the motherboard and the top of the case to physically fit in 70mm worth of RAD+FANs. Unless I'm missing something with those cases listed. As I would eagerly love to find something that will work. I'll take a second look at the cases you've mentioned. The dam EK-Phoenix RAD is just so dam thick. If I had known beforehand it was so thick, I would have gone with a slim build instead.
  6. newfieboy1983
    Good Day Folks -- I have a bit of a conundrum that I've been working through. I'm in the market for an upgrade to my existing system: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/newfieboy1983/saved/MNKjcf Specifically I'm looking to swap out my case, as its just too small for my needs. The issue I've been having is finding a big enough case that can top mount my rad+fans, and not interfere with the motherboard. The rad+fans are about 67mm (say 70mm), and the only cases that I've found to support a top mount for this are cases like the following. - Corsair 900D or 1000D - Cooler Master C700P - Thermaltake The Tower 900 - Thermaltake W100 Does anyone have a better suggestion? I was hoping to keep the price under $300 if possible -- but I'll do whats necessary of course. Any help is greatly appreciated. Note: At the moment I have my rad+fan front mounted on the Air 740, but it only leaves about 2 mm between the back of the rad and the GPU shroud.
  7. newfieboy1983
    Did you take it out of the case yet?
  8. newfieboy1983
    So I'm guessing you'll remove those updates and try gaming again? Let us know how that goes.
  9. newfieboy1983
    Your welcome Ankit -- best of luck to you in your quest to find the issue. Also -- if you want -- check to see if Windows installed any updates overnight. It could be possible that its one update that is causing your issue (doubtful, but worth a check). If one update did get installed, remove it -- and try gaming again. Taking your entire system out of the case is not fun -- well its fun for me -- but its likely required to find that issue. Yeah your PSU could be the issue -- but seems doubtful as you played last night no issues. This is a hard issue to pin down -- especially over the interwebs. Newf
  10. newfieboy1983
    Nice looking case. But on the serious front -- the first thing of concern is that the CPU is running at or near 100% for your games. That's a bit much. As stated above -- it could be a virus or malware that is causing the issue. Take a look through your Task Manager to see whats eating up all that CPU usage. (Under details see what is using the CPU) If its a hardware issue then you could be in a bit more of hot water -- I doubt that the system is designed to run as hot as you describe. Take a quick look inside your case as well -- make sure all the FANS are spinning and nothing is "stuck" or full of debris. A fresh install of Windows is not a bad idea either.
  11. newfieboy1983
    If the GPU has a requirement for 2x 8 PINS then you need to fill those. Your PSU should have several GPU/PCIE connectors -- some are 8 PIN others are 6 + 2 PIN. Either of those are fine -- just make sure when you plug in the 6 + 2 that you are using all the connectors/PINS. You'll need them all for the required power. If you only have one 6+2 or 8 PIN -- then you'll need to get a Molex or SATA power to 8 PIN adapter.
  12. newfieboy1983
    Are you plugging it into the same USB 3 port each time? Or do you have several USB 3 ports that you are switching around using. As stated -- it could be a driver issue -- or it could be something physically lodged inside the USB 3 port on your motherboard. I've seen a similar situation when there was a small metal fragment inside the USB port on a laptop. Connect/Disconnect.
  13. newfieboy1983
    Sounds like you got a bad SSD. Put an RMA in for that thing, and get a new one. As a curiosity -- do you have another SSD or HD you can install Windows on? If you do -- you could install Windows on the other SSD/HD, and then install games direct to the NVME SSD. See if that brings any more stability. Just a few thoughts. Good Luck Newf
  14. newfieboy1983
    A fresh Windows is a decent start -- as for the cabling -- it depends on how desperate you are to get stuff working. Some troubleshooting can take hours or days just to find a small issue(s) that may have been overlooked. If after your Windows Install if your still having the same issues -- I'd still take it all out and follow my steps above. Personally I think something is going on with your install inside the case. Since the only net new items are the case and PSU -- I'm betting it could be something related to that. Like a grounding issue near the standoffs -- CPU / RAM needs a re-seat. I mean those Windows Updates could be problematic as well, but its very unusual for them to cause such a drastic crash only when the CPU/GPU/RAM is being pushed during your gaming.
  15. newfieboy1983
    I'm going on the assumption its something to do with the hardware -- and not software related at the point. Try the following. Take all your components out and put the PC together outside the case. Play your games and see what happens. If we continue to get reboots then -- try a fresh install of Windows. If you continue to get reboots, then its 100% hardware. First try a simple CMOS reset, and get your BIOS and settings back to default. After the CMOS/BIOS I'd go with a re-seat of the RAM and CPU (you could do this after you take your PC out of the case if you wish -- before going with a fresh Windows install) If your still getting reboots -- try one RAM stick at a time and see if your still getting the reboots mid-game. Good luck -- Newf
×