Tetris_Chemist

update: after like 30 minutes it just randomly works again???? not sure for how long though

So everything has been working fine for the entire lifespan of this trooper, but getting home today and starting my PC results in the monitor flicking the power light on, flashing the screen with some color, and then to black with the power light going off. So now for the real kicker, this is a ViewSonic VA902B, something that my friend got in 2005 and I got from him in 2009 So this thing is old enough to drive if it were a person. I'm really not familiar with monitor hardware, so if anyone knows any way to get a few more years out of this baby, or if it's dead dead, I'd appreciate the input.

Adding onto the absurdly long title, I've got a main rig I've been upgrading and using primarily at home for years, but I'd like a good laptop that I can bring to my university to work on projects on site and in class without being restricted to a school owned computer. Additionally I'd be taking this to my workplace since I've got occasional downtime to work on school assignments. I probably won't be doing any hardcore gaming on it and will resort to indies if not medium graphical intensity games. That said, I would like it to be able to easily handle full browsers, calls on other software, and more intensive projects in visual studio/unity/etc. I was looking into some heftier gaming laptops in the 1500-2000 range, and my income is pretty solid for someone who's yet to complete their cs degree, but I had a few second thoughts of "perhaps I don't need this monster of a laptop when I could instead upgrade my home rig with the excess cost". With that said, I've never actually owned a laptop so I've not really got much of a personal benchmark to work with.

No, actually, I just want to get rid of the steam games without having to go through and find out what files i need to back up as opposed to formatting the whole drive.

Howdy all, I've got quite a solid amount of space with a 1TB NVMe main drive that my current win10 os rests on in addition to games that benefit from the SSD's speeds; and a few additional storage HDD's at 2TB each. However, my jump from win7 to win10 was. . . rough. In summary I basically ended up replacing my now 8 year old CPU, ram and mobo hurriedly without wiping my steam library off the older drive in addition to the installation etc. I could format the entire drives, sure, but I'm just posting here to see if there's a quicker way to accomplish deleting stuff like steam games off of these drives that I'm currently unable to operate because I'd have to swap out my ram and psu even for a test bench style, bare bones setup. I might just bite the bullet and go through with extracting and backing up anything important before a formatting, but there's like 500gb of steam games on each drive alone(an older primary drive from waaay back in the day)

How does the flagship OS for a fucking 750 billion dollar+ market value company get fucking weak in the knees and fucking take it down the throat to a fucking snip tool? how does this shit override literally everything else on the OS and freeze your shit lest you activate task manager or shut down the pc?

overall it doesn't do the window burn when aero is activated, but being locked to constantly using aero isn't always idea. Idk maybe I just can't use standard windows anymore

so I've used the tool you shared and successfully reinstalled my drivers, but now I've noticed that there's still a bit of a rendering ghost tail of sorts for windows in general(by this I mean any window that overlaps the chrome page) and when I drag a window of any program over chrome, it will end up repeating the pic in my original post. I've included a few more details on my OS and some hardware. I'm running the latest nvidia drivers and have the notorious '4GB' nvidia 970s, specifically the EVGA GeForce GTX 970 04G-P4-2974-KR 4GB SC GAMING w/ACX 2.0, Silent Cooling Graphics Card from the old newegg page ****Update as I'm typing this: I've noticed yet another feature, I activated windows aero and the problem seems to not be affected other than maybe me noticing the screen possibly? not rendering at the fully refresh rate for either monitor, if that's possible and it's not just my eyes being weird(60Hz as the decade old secondary set monitor and 144Hz as the main set Asus monitor) Again, thank you for any and all help and input.

I have not, I could try doing so if that might help

So I've tried doing cold boots, graphics updates, and a few other things, but I've still been encountering this. Hell, it's gotten worse in the last day even. I'm using a ASUS VG248QE which is roughly 5-6 years old as my main monitor, but my nearly 12 year old monitor is still doing better in terms of this issue than the main one. I've done hardware and software tinkering before, but monitors are entirely new territory to me, so I'd appreciate some help *****Updates posted in replies below

thanks to everyone in the thread, I drove to microcenter today, picked up a new PSU and it works perfectly, it was probably a capacitor in the PSU. Also as for the 24 pin connector, after struggling to remove it, luckily i was hanging out with one of my smaller-framed friends because they pulled it out instantly without bending the board, i guess my hands are just too large to effectively deal with the cramped space i was working with haha.

as for when I do go out and get a new PSU, a few days ago I was trying to remove the old 24 pin connector from the motherboard and it felt damn near impossible to remove, in addition to being at an awkward angle in the case, what are some ways to sure-fire remove something stuck like this?

pressing the power button on the case and the board does absolutely nothing, no fans, no post, no boot, nothing.

So I've been having issues for about a week and a half now, ever since the power went out as i was using my rig gaming, it refuses to start after a shut down unless I let it sit unplugged for a few hours and after discharging the board. The board that i have is: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131790 The PSU is: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/professional-series-gold-ax850-80-plus-gold-certified-fully-modular-power-supply My boot drive to be mentioned since I've heard of issues involving surges: 1TB version http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA12K21G5997 My case is: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119297 The rig was also assembled in I believe early february or march 2013 In the bios settings I've always had surge protector on, in addition to every other safety option available. Now the thing that has been puzzling me for these few days now, is that after I shut it down, even after having discharged the board via turning the PSU switch to 0, removing the cable, and holding the power button, it will still refuse to boot upon my pressing of the case's power button or the power or reset buttons on the motherboard, both of which instantly receive at least some voltage to have their lights turn on. Since my last shutting down, I've let the pc sit for about 20 hours to successfully boot. Upon checking the BIOS(which is UEFI btw) all the voltages, temps, and fans are running normal speeds, spot on voltages, and cpu while idle at 20-30C with the board at about 18-23C and the GPU at about 25-30C. I also let the board discharge and unplugged all the cords from the PSU and plugged them back in to let the PC sit for aforementioned 20 hours to come back, and return to running perfectly, even though I've yet to shut it down again because it's been essentially a day without me being able to access anything on here. So my plea to anyone who cares to stop by is to offer any advice as to what my long term solution to this problem is, and what they think the problem is to begin with as to put an end to the 10+ hours I've spent combing forums and talking with friends in hopes to not have to just take it to a repair shop -Thanks ::EDIT:: I forgot to mention that before my last shut down it had been running fine and able to be put to sleep mode and to wake for about 30 hours without any issues with heat or voltages. Also I have been unable to do the paper clip test due to 1) It's damn near impossible for me to remove the 24 pin connector from the board, and 2) the cables are all black.