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Andanas

Member
  • Content Count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Andanas

  • Title
    Newbie
  • Birthday 1968-04-10

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St. Paul, MN

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i5 4690K @ 3.5GHz
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z97 Gaming 7
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance 1866MHz 16GB
  • GPU
    MSI Gaming 4G GTX 970
  • Case
    Corsair 600T
  • Storage
    OCZ Arc-100 250GB SSD, WD Velociraptor 10K RPM 300GB, WD Black 1 TB.
  • PSU
    EVGA 850 G2
  • Display(s)
    Samsung P2350 (1080P) & Insignia 720P
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo w/ 2 fans in push-pull
  • Keyboard
    Steel Series Merc Stealth
  • Mouse
    Logitech G9X
  • Sound
    Onboard Audio, HiFi Man HE-400 Headphones, Antlion Modmic 4.0
  • Operating System
    Windows 10-64bit

Recent Profile Visitors

340 profile views
  1. Andanas

    Upgrading from i5-4690K

    I do plan to wait for the Ryzen 3 announcement. With the OS, I bought most (if not all) of the i5 parts at Microcenter, and at the time the OEM version was cheaper than the retail version...that or it was the only one they had, I can't remember which. The MSI B450 tomahawk is an option I've kept in mind.
  2. Andanas

    Upgrading from i5-4690K

    No, I had to edit it, the current format didn't work.
  3. My current system looks like this: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-4690K 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00) Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-Z97X-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: OCZ - ARC 100 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Black 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital - VelociRaptor 300 GB 3.5" 10000RPM Internal Hard Drive (Pruchased For $0.00) Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 970 4 GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Corsair - 600T ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $0.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-01-05 12:07 EST-0500 It's running 1080p games fine, and I've no serious issues about it. However, I have been looking into possible upgrades. A couple of options were to get an AIO water cooler, and OC the CPU, and get a GTX 1070. The more I thought about it though, the more I realized I just never got comfortable with the idea of overclocking. I realize I bought a K series processor, but I was always worried I'd mess up and not have the money for a new CPU. Plus, GTX 1070's are still pretty expensive. With a budget of $700, I started looking at other options, including new builds, while still utilizing several parts I currently have. So far, I've come up with this: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($177.97 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($134.82 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($140.22 @ Amazon) Storage: OCZ - ARC 100 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Black 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital - VelociRaptor 300 GB 3.5" 10000RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 970 4 GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Corsair - 600T ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $453.01 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-01-05 12:02 EST-0500 At current, I'd be bringing over the GPU, drives, case, PSU. I'm not sure if I can transfer my existing Win 10 license, so I've included a new one. A few comments on the parts: MB - Since I am not getting an X CPU, I am not sure how overkill this board would be. I like the features though, but I'm open to options. Drives - Yes, I know. Ancient. An MVNe is being considered in not to distant future. GPU - Not really sure here. I'm only doing 1080P gaming, and not getting a new monitor anytime soon, and currently, 1070's are still up there in price. Again, would appreciate suggestions. Final thoughts: I'm not sure how much of an upgrade the Ryzen setup is from what I have now, but I figure I'll have something that'll be more upgrade friendly (unless Ryzen 3 uses a whole new socket and DDR5, lol). I'd like to do 1080p gaming on high (or better) settings, with occasional streaming. I appreciate any feedback.
  4. Hi, I'm looking for a set of Bluetooth headphones for use mainly on my bus ride to and from work, or whenever else I ride the bus or train. In-ear would be preferable, but I'm open to on ear or over ear as well. I'd also like it to have a mic, as well as play/ pause next track/previous track, etc... The only Bluetooth I have tried in the past, is the LG Tone Platinum (first with the Nexus 5 and later with the S7 Edge). In both cases as long as I had my phone in hand everything sounded fine. As soon as I put my phone in my pocket, the music begins to pause and skip, frequently enough that I returned both headsets the day after I bought them. (I thought maybe my Nexus 5 was the issue, the first time, which is why I tried the same headset again with the S7 edge). Is constant skipping and pausing something to be expected from Bluetooth, if I put my phone in my pocket? If so, then I'll probably stick to wired. Assuming there are decent Bluetooth options out there, my budget is $250. I like defined bass, but not overpowering, I still want to hear the mids and highs clearly. Noise canceling would be nice, since I'd be using these on the bus or train,but the number one criteria is being able to have my phone in pocket and not have skips or pauses. Thanks.
  5. Andanas

    Working PC no longer POSTs

    It is under warranty, but this would be the second time I'd be replacing it (first time was for a CPU socket issue), so I'm a bit apprehensive about going through that process again. I may just get a new board, either ASUS or Gigabyte, as you suggested.
  6. Andanas

    Working PC no longer POSTs

    I do not have another cpu or fan to test. If it is either of those two, would I not get some error codes displayed on the led?
  7. Andanas

    Working PC no longer POSTs

    I cannot get into the bios at all. When I press the power button (or short the PWR jumper), nothing happens. The Cpu fan doesn't spin up, the fan on the power supply doesn't spin up, and the post code leds don't light up either. It's as if it's not even plugged in, even though it is. And I have checked the plugs both the wall, and on the surge protector, trying a couple different ones as well. I have tried clearing CMOS and even withe the battery out. As far as I know, the Temps were fine. I never noticed any issues in games, and the PC never stopped to throttle down.
  8. Andanas

    Working PC no longer POSTs

    Several weeks ago, I'd started a Windows 10 update, with my PC set to go into sleep mode, once the update was done. I'd set this up, then went to bed. When I tried to wake my PC (the following evening) it would not respond. Id tried pressing the power button a few times, hitting a few keys on the keyboard, and moving the mouse. Nothing that I tried worked. The power led on the case was on, and flashing. Not sure what to do next I held down the power button until the PC shut down. When I tried to turn it back on, nothing happened. No fans, no beep, nothing. I double checked all power and SATA cable connections, RAM seating, GPU seating, fan cables, everything..still nothing. I began removing components one by one (trying to turn it on each time) til I was just left with a CPU, one stick of RAM and using the onboard video, and still would not boot. Next I removed the motherboard from the case, (I didn't think there was a short, but I wanted to eliminate that possibility.) and placed it on its box, and re connected only the CPU power, and 24 pin cable. So the only things connected to the motherboard were the power, CPU, CPU fan, one stick of RAM, and connected to monitor via on board HDMI (and yes, I'd tried all this using the video card too), and still nothing. Through this whole process the power switch led on the motherboard was lit up, but pressing it, or shorting out the power pins would not work. I started to think the power supply might be faulty. I tried the paperclip test, and the power supply turned on just fine. After all that, I'm thinking motherboard went bad, somehow, but before I spend time and money replacing it, I wanted a second opinion. Specs: MB - MSI Z97 Gaming 7 CPU - Intel i5-4690K w/ stock cooler RAM - Corsair Vengeance 1866MHz 16GB (4x4GB) GPU - MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G PWR - EVGA 850G2 Sorry for the Length, I just wanted to make sure I'd added in everything I'd tried while troubleshooting this.
  9. RMA'ing the motherboard is something I'll have to consider. When I contacted MSI, they actually told me "Yes that is normal for CPU's to hover around the 32 to 34 Celsius range during full stress."
  10. Andanas

    What started your gaming love?

    This, for sure.
  11. Put in the new CPU today, and still has the same problem. After running the AIDA 64 stress test, as well as Intel's Extreme Tuning Utility stress test for about 10 min both, the temperature never gets higher than 32, even with the stock cooler. This CPU and the old one test ok in the CPU diagnostic tool. I'm starting to think there was never any issue with the old CPU in the first place. When I took the old CPU out, I noticed a single bent CPU pin on the motherboard. Don't know how it happened, but it did. Is it possible that one bent pin is interfering with the temperature? That sounds a bit far-fetched to me, but I have no other ideas. I dont have a 2nd motherboard to pop the cpu into to test, and not even sure I can RMA the motherboard with a bent pin. Anyone have any ideas?
  12. Turns out I still need them (for warranty verification). Oh well.
  13. I bought it at Microcenter. When I was on Intel.com looking up warrenty information, it wanted the FPO, and ATPO number. Though when I filled out the service form, it never asked for those numbers, so I guess I didnt need em after all.
  14. Yea, Im going to. Just need to get the FPO, and ATPO numbers. I think FPO = Batch# on the box label, but I'm not sure what the ATPO number is, on the box. I'd like to get that number and fill out the RMA request, while I still have my PC up and running. And thanks Arniks8, I would've ended up RMA'ing my motherboard, if you hadn't said the sensor is on the CPU. :lol:
  15. I only built this computer back in February-March of this year, so it's still under warranty. At least it better be.
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