Octavialicious

9 minutes ago, Airdragonz said:

Check out some of these? https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#r=344001440&A=3,2&D=100000,240000

bro I didnt know pcpartpicker had monitors! thats fucking sick ty

If it is on amazon that would be dope, newegg is cool too.

I was hoping to find something with these traits:

-  100+ Hz

-  1440p 21:9

-  Freesync

- under $850

I've found a couple, but is there like a BIG big one? Like I was looking at a 31.5" 16x9 monitor, is there one that is massive like that too (that is 21:9)? I dont want it to just be wide, I want it to be big tall AND wide. 

Like my current monitor is 28", is there one that is that tall but wider? I dont want to lose vertical height if that makes sense, I just want to add width

thank u for ur help

1 hour ago, WoodenMarker said:

Yes, the measurements can be trusted.

Usually, when measurements aren't exact, they're erring on the side of caution and there's more clearance available as opposed to less than stated. 

The width is 126mm which is less than the Mugen 5 Rev. B at 130mm. You're looking at the depth. 

sorry to ask u again, but is the neptwin gonna touch my ram sticks? I have corsair vengeance lpx so they r low profile but r they low enough

8 minutes ago, WoodenMarker said:

Yes, the measurements can be trusted.

Usually, when measurements aren't exact, they're erring on the side of caution and there's more clearance available as opposed to less than stated. 

The width is 126mm which is less than the Mugen 5 Rev. B at 130mm. You're looking at the depth. 

OK, ty 

I go with neptwin and put p12 on there 

tysm friend 

15 minutes ago, WoodenMarker said:

If you already have NF-P12's and are replacing the fans, you could save a bit of money with a cheaper heatsink like the Neptwin V2: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3XXfrH/deepcool-cpu-cooler-neptwinv20

The Ninja 5 might perform a bit better or at least look a bit better: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dZ3H99/scythe-ninja-5-430-cfm-cpu-cooler-scnj-5000

also its 16mm bigger width vs. mugen, so it will be closer to gpu. do u think there is enough clearance? 

btw tysm for ur help u r hero ily 

10 minutes ago, WoodenMarker said:

If you already have NF-P12's and are replacing the fans, you could save a bit of money with a cheaper heatsink like the Neptwin V2: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3XXfrH/deepcool-cpu-cooler-neptwinv20

The Ninja 5 might perform a bit better or at least look a bit better: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dZ3H99/scythe-ninja-5-430-cfm-cpu-cooler-scnj-5000

do u trust the neptwin? it says 159mm (my case supports 159mm exactly) the 212 Evo I have rn fits and is 159mm, but do u think I can trust their measurements? 

18 minutes ago, WoodenMarker said:

If you're asking about the coolers, they're both great. 

What cpu are you cooling and what ram are you using? What kind of features are you looking for in a cooler?

Where are you shopping / located? Budget?

USA, amazon would be dope if its on there

im getting a 9700k, i dont want crazy overclocks or anything. 4.7 or 4.8 GHz all cores would be nice (if that is reasonable)

I dont want any features really, it would be cool if I could do push pull though. The gigabyte board has a beefy chunk of stuff near the I/O shield so idk if I could put another fan on the mugen

I dont rlly care about stock fans as im slapping noctua p12 fans on there, I dont care about RGB

1 minute ago, WoodenMarker said:

Either would fit just fine. 

Here's an example with the Mugen 5 Rev. B: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/q8cYcf

The Fuma 2 isn't much wider. 

r they decent? or r they bad

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J9YH428/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

This is the motherboard I'm using. I was looking at the scythe fuma or mugen, but I'm afraid of them touching the back of my video card, idk if they fit

I was also thinking of a push pull 120mm aio, because ik that would fit. But im unsure of it's good

I could put a 240mm in the front, but I dont want my GPU to have to use hot air

pls help, case is CM q300p

On 10/7/2019 at 6:18 AM, SolarNova said:

It can be a premix.

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BHHP71C/ref=ox_sc_act_image_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

What metal is in there? It says titanium heat exchanger, is that where the water touches? so how does that work with copper? I'm worried I don't want any corrosion 

should I try getting nickel plated stuff? 

I've been seeing mixed information. I see a lot of mineral oil PC's that just sit in the oil, but in the LTT video and in some of the builds I see them pump the oil through a radiator 

Do I need to use a radiator or no? Can I use a d5 or do I need a special pump?

ty 

On 10/5/2019 at 6:09 PM, SolarNova said:

So long as you dont OC to the point you NEED sub ambient temps to remain stable and safe core temps, you wont need to worry about having chilled coolant available at start up, so in that respect you CAN hook it up directly.

The only thing that will be happening is a lowered efficiency of the chiller as you simply wont have the flow rates required for best operation even if you stick multiple D5's , due to block restrictions.

While a D5 can theoretically have up to 1500 LPH  (5.5GPM) flow, thats with zero restriction. Most peoples PC loops aim and run at 1 GPM. Aquarium chillers usually advise at minimum 1200 LPH, more with bigger units, up to as high as 6000 LPH , which equals to about 4.4 GPM (up to 22 GPM) , alot higher than what u can expect a PC loop to be able to do even with multiple pumps.

 

Not saying u cant go direct, as its been done before, its just not ideal.

 

Coolant wise u can use your normal PC water loop coolants, be it a premix or distilled + biocide + inhibitor.

 

You wouldnt need lots of extra space for the 2nd loop. Just somthing like below.

 

Can you use a premixed fluid or does it have to be water?

4 hours ago, SolarNova said:

No radiator. But a large external res would be helpful.

 

I've gone through a bunch of research for such builds, while my plan is to now go beyond this, here is what i discovered during my original chiller planning.

 

An aquarium water chiller is fine for PC cooling, they can be had cheap (relatively speaking), they are designed to run all the time turning on and of as needed, BUT they are not designed designed to be run constant under a heavy heat load.

As such using a large res, like a cooler box (picnic box, chiller box, beer cooler), as they are pre insulated, and have the chiller run a loop from the chiller to the rez set to keep the liquid at a set temp at ALL times, is a better idea than running the chiller directly to the PC.

You then build a normal PC loop minus the rads and have that loop go from the PC to the large res. That way the coolant is always chilled and ready for use.

 

The other reason u'd want a 2 stage loop is for coolant flow rates. Chillers like these are designed with high flow rates in mind, much higher than those in normal PC water loops, so it will work much better using a high flow aquarium pump from the chiller to the res, then use a normal PC loop with D5 pump(s) from PC to res, rather than having it all in a single loop using lower flow D5 pumps.

 

A chiller like those done by Hailea are fine, i'd recommend at least the HC500 which uses a 1/2 HP compressor. (estimated 790w cooling potential)

 

Most aquarium pumps have temp targets that stop at 4c, u can bypass it but that requires some DIY modding.

Also understand that if at anytime u want to try going subzero, chillers that use r134a refrigerant wont do very well as its a relatively high boiling point refrigerant at only -26c. An older/large chiller using r22 would be a better bet as it boils around -41c.

 

These chillers can be loud, so perhaps have it located in another room, attic, basement, even in an outdoor enclosure.

ty for this, is hooking it straight up a death sentence or is it just not ideal? I'm in a pretty small space so idk if id have more room for a seperate loop

I'm also downsizing to a ryzen chip, so the heat output shouldnt be as much. I also dont even plan to set it that low, just something manageable. There are way better methods to get normal temps but I just thought using a chiller would be neat

Speaking im not going for super low temps do I need to use anything other than distilled water?

I'm going to try getting good flow like you said, I'm definitely using at least x2 of a D5 or DDC, or I guess I could use the little giant or whatever that linus used, I'm unsure

1 minute ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

I'd be more concerned at the risk of damp or even outright water spills from doing that.

There's also the EMI both from it being close to the PC and plugged into a nearby socket.  Ideally you don't want any sort of  load that's likely to cause surges plugged in near your PC.

whats EMI, I googled it but it brought up a band

I know that hard drives can die due to vibration but what about normal PC components? Like CPU, GPU, RAM, PSU

I ask because I want to stack a water chiller on top of a PC case, but I dont want it to hurt the parts with vibration

ty for ur input

Just now, Bitter said:

For $200 and freight you can get a 2100W lab grade chiller on eBay, I linked to one in the LTT video thread about the 500W TEC cooling.

could u find it? idk how to get to it

2 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

there are cheaper ways to do that

Radeon VII

Then get a 360mm rad AIO for TR. Might not hit 60C max load still but weak compressors like that are not worth your time for the temperature gain. If you're serious, get a 1HP unit that can pull the temperature close to ambient, say 35C.

I wanna overclock the threadripper chip a lot, I had a 240mmx2 rad setup but i dont think thats enough so i thought waterchiller would be cool

also what kind of pump am i gonna need for this, im assuming a DDC wont be enough? would it work with another 2nd DDC or do I need a special big pump?

Just now, Jurrunio said:

1hp is 735w, so 1/4hp isn't even enough to pull a Radeon VII at full load below ambient temperature.

I just want sub 60C

Just now, Andrew 1337 said:

1/4HP thermoelectric? 1/4HP compressor? 1/4HP from Watts from BTUs?

 

Can we get more specs on the chiller unit?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHHP71C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

there is a 1/10 HP for cheaper but its not much more for 1/4, I dont know how much I need. I dont want freezing or anything, just sub like 60C

Hi there, I was looking at using a water chiller for my new setup (thread ripper + radeon vii)

The one I was looking at was 1/4 HP, is that enough for the rig? I dont want sub zero or anything, just to be like <60C with some juicy overclocks.

Do I need a radiator in addition to the waterchiller? Or is it just the waterchiller, pump, and blocks in the loop?

thanks for the help yall

Title. Are games using hyperthreading yet? I want this CPU to last me several years, so is it worth bothering to get the i9? Or does it make no difference

ty friends

16 minutes ago, FALC0N said:

 

Exactly how old is this unit?  Did you buy it 9 months ago or 3 years ago?

 

I calculate your full load power usage around 500 to 550 watts.   I think your unit will hold up, but it would make me feel a bit uncomfortable.   It's a solid unit, though.  I don't see any reason to change it out now.

 

 

1.5 yr ago I think

ty for all the help, seems like it might be close. I just realized my boyfriend has a 750W, so if it isn't enough and it shuts down we can just trade (his pc draws way less power) 

and yes it's the digifanless one, it's pretty nifty 

Hi there, I want a Radeon VII waterblock and I stumbled across this one

https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/gpu-water-blocks/gpu-full-cover/eisblock-gpx/24452/alphacool-eisblock-gpx-a-plexi-light-amd-radeon-vii-incl.-backplate?sPartner=googleshoppingusa&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj6WLhqn-5AIVFMZkCh0TvwxrEAQYAyABEgLNj_D_BwE

Is it fine? It's WAY cheaper than all the alternatives, is it decent?