Răzvan Botea

Wish I did. But in any case I think I want something new, I know that replacing dying capacitors is not expensive (I can even do it myself but I don't have a soldering iron). If i would fix this it would save me some money... buuuuut on the other hand, I think it's time to get somthing new. Also I won't be throwing it out, I'll fix it some day.

I checked the subwoofer (which houses the active part of the sound system) and didn't see any problems with the caps; but I ain't an electrical engineer or something, so I might be wrong. The glue looked kinda burned tho' which touched a lot of the components (capacitors, toroidal coils etc)

It's not distortion it's massive coil whine. I have to reduce bass -5dB I cannot go over 40/60dB If I don't do these things the sound cuts off and I have to off/on the power switch. This started happening 2 years ago and I have it since 2014. The massive coil whine started strongly today.

Hello guys, Basically my current sound system (Microlab 2.1 H200) has the cross on his chest, his death certificate has been issued in advance etc. It sounds like those industrial power transformers after a while of use (coil whine is a little kid compared to how the subwoofer unit sounds when it's turned on). I'm urgently looking for a good sound system (2.0 stereo) that's good for music and some games. My space is limited and I'd want something that's not too big similar the two satellites of the H200 I already have (can be bigger, since they are rather small). Also no passive systems since I don't want to buy an amplifier. Budget is $450. LE: Found this Audioengine A5+ Wireless which has an added bonus that I can connect my phone/tablet to it from time to time when I'm not in my room.

If you've read my original reply, I'm sorry (for not being more careful to the website) :). According to rtings.com my first option in the possible upgrades would be best: LG 32GP850-B.

LE: how do I delete posts ? lol. I found my filters.

Hey guys, I'm having trouble finding my next PC monitor to upgrade my old one (LG 32GK850G-B). Specifically when it comes to resolution, there are very few monitors this large with a QHD resolution and I'd like a more documented opinion from you guys. Possible upgrades: LG 32GP850-B CoolerMaster GM32-FQ Is there any website-catalogue with all/most the monitors out there where I can filter with my own requirements ? In any case, I'll leave my requirements here 31.5/32in ; nothing less, nothing more QHD, nothing less, nothing more IPS (no TN, no VA) At least 120Hz refresh rate VRR (g-sync compatible) Bonus requirements: HDR: most HDR400 monitors are not that great from what I've read; so a better peak brightness would be great Full array local dimming I don't have a budget size, I just want to look at some monitors with these requirements. I'm a software engineer, I play some games casually; but I love buying cool tech stuff and upgrading my current setup, so I ain't looking for anything specific.

There are some solutions, I found this one: https://clonezilla.org/liveusb.php

Hello guys, So the last time I cloned a boot drive (went from HDD to a sata SSD) was some years ago and I used a tool which made a bootable usb drive which had the software there to clone the hdd (so that the OS isn't in use). I've read, watched some popular tech channels where people recommend using X software (the one from paragon for example) while windows is still in use. How does that work ? I have two main concerns: Some files that are in use cannot be copied (file read locked by windows due to various reasons) Files modified after the software copies them I would love to use a tool which clones (like real clone, sector by sector) a disk drive while windows is not booted (or in use). Stories of "oh I've done that, it's no big deal" won't help me (i want to avoid any possible issues completely). I have a 512GB pcie3 ssd and want to upgrade to a 1TB pcie4 one. Thanks.

Weirdly enough, I can only find the Cinema 400 and the 800 models here in Romania

Hello guys, So I'll be buying my dad an lg oled tv this xmas and he said he'll buy a soundbar but I'm really not into soundbars at all and would like some suggestions for purchasing one. The tv I'll be buying is the LG 65C12LA, and for a soundbar I'd want one with a separate subwoofer unit. $500 tops. I'm looking at this one at the moment: LG SN7Y.

Yeah my brain malfunction there i wanted to say that one of the cable is a 6+2 one, and JayTwoCents said to avoid those and use an 8pin one instead

Oh hey hold on. I think you guys misunderstood me: i'm using two cables as stated above (one 8PIN (6pin + 2pin) and one 6PIN) wouldn't that be 225W ???

So all I'm missing would be an 8pin pcie cable ?

So my GPU has a 6 pin power input and a 8 pin power input. How can I only use 1 cable for both of them ? Right now it's rigged to use 1x6 and 1x(6+2) from a single PSU output.

I'm using a single pci-e power cable to the gpu. I know some people (heard it from JayzTwoCents) that he recommends using two separate cables

Hello guys, So the issue I (used to) having revolves around a particular context in the Elite Dangerous Odyssey dlc (it's still poorly optimized). At that time I decided to pop up hwinfo and put all charts regarding GPU limitations and when the GPU usage tanked (from 99 to 33%) lowering the FPS to around 5 i look at the graphs and noticed that 1. Performance limit - Utilization was up all the time 2. There were spikes in the Performance Limit - Power graph. Max GPU Power during all this monitoring was 258W; during the FPS drops in the game the power usage went to under 100W. GPU: RTX 2080S (gv-n208sgaming oc-8gc 2.0) 250W TDP Power supply: https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-GX-750-Full-Modular-Application-SSR-750FX/dp/B077J9G9CH I don't or ever had any issue with GPU limitations (eg: abysmal fps for a few seconds) in any other game. Is there anything I can do ? Or should I just leave it as is ? (i've found a workaround for this issue in the nvidia control panel, but I don't understand why the Performance Limit - Power is being triggered, I thought GPUs can ask more voltage when its possible?)

Holy crap I think I realized why my "calculations" were wrong all the time. So the VA (and to some extend the power W) is just a measure of how much it can output, BUT there's no measure of energy capacity in the product's datasheet; eg: 1000VA UPS can give you about 800W but because of the energy density (or no. of batteries) it can die out pretty soon; now the same 1000VA UPS can give you more runtime because if it has more/bigger batteries (energy density is increased).

Thanks for the input. If may, I can reduce the power consumption by just having the PC and my monitor plugged in (still at around 200-300W). I can tackle the rest (internet and external speaker; eg: usb tethering from my phone & using a BT speaker, but I have to buy a wireless card for my pc, which is in the realm of doable)

Thanks a lot guys for your insight. Now I'm further convinced that my "calculations" are wrong (I was assuming that the relationship between runtime and VA rating of the UPS would be liniar; eg: 1000VA ups supplying 400W would last about an hour, 400W in 60m would be 400Wh (1000VA in the UPS world is about 500Wh, or in other words, keep a computer @ 500W alive for an hour or so)) Now reading this, I'm much more happy with a rating of 20mins for a 300-400W load, just have to take into account the price and decide whether it's worth it for my needs.

Ok thanks man. Looks like my "calculations" were out of whack. So it's no-no.

Oh, ok. So a $300 1000VA UPS won't cut it ? I wish I had the opportunity to try one (not a SH one mind you). Also the tesla powerwall that you linked states 7KWh of energy (or in broad terms, it would last around 1 hour at a load of 7000W). But I'm not an electrician and I might be gravely mistaken. In terms of energy, 400Wh would suffice in my use case. But in any case, I think I got the general ideea. Thanks for your input.

Ok cool, so basically there won't be a UPS to satisfy my needs? PS: i'm open to discussion, so for everyone just state your mind. That's why I made this thread to see if I really need one or not.

Yes I know what UPS are mostly used for, but I only need like 40-60 mins tops @ 300-400W load

I'll use USB tethering from my phone. As I said, just doing some internet stuff, reading, chatting, watching some yt, listening to music.