BlackFireBR

It always bothered me that the HDR on Windows never looked right with the techinically "correct" settings. Technically you are suposed to use: - Full Output Dynamic Range + Black Levels High or - Limited Output Dynamic Range + Black Levels Low For HDR (and Black Levels always on Low for SDR) Thing is, on Windows Desktop HDR, if you use either Full / High or Limited / Low, everything looks washed out. But if you use Black Level Low, in some games, you get black crush. Here's what I found out: - The image you see on Windows Desktop is an SDR image being artificially converted to and HDR image by Windows, but it's actually it's "still SDR", so on the Windows Desktop, you should always use Black Levels on Low. (with Output Dynamic Range to Full) Don't believe me? Open this test pattern first with HDR off to see how it looks like, then enable HDR and put Black Levels on High (the theorical recomended, you will see the first square is super visible and it should be only barelly visible (raised blacks). Now change the Black Levels to Low, it will look almost the same as it looked when HDR was Off.) Now open this youtube video with HDR ON. Since the youtube player actually outputs true HDR, if you use Black Levels High it will look right, and if you use Low, it looks crushed (the oposite of what happened before. Therefore, normal Windows desktop = Black Levels Low is correct (even if HDR is ON in the Windows settings). Youtube video or anything that outputs true HDR, Black Levels High is correct.) - On games, there are games that are true HDR and some that are SDR converted to HDR. The trick to know this is to install MSI Afterburner and set the On Screen Display to monitor anything while you're gaming with the default colors untouched. Open your game and enable HDR in the game. If the orange colors of the OSD of MSI Afterburner looks like this (#FF8000) (the original color that is also shown in SDR), it's true HDR and Black Levels should be set to High (with Output Dynamic Range Full) If the orange colors of the OSD of MSI Afterburner looks like a stronger orange (more towards red), then it's Fake HDR and Black Levels should be set to Low (with Output Dynamic Range to Full) Let me know your thoughts.

Thank you so much!!! Really appreciate the quick response. I can now finish my build thanks to you

Thanks I just saw the original one also has a missing pin, but its in a different spot (see picture). Is that still ok?

Thanks for the quick reply. I see there's one side that seems to be 6+2 and other that is the 8 pin all together (this one that has a hole). My original cable didn't have this. Should I be worried?

Hi, I just bought a sleeved PCI express 8pin for my Ax760i but I noticed that there's one missing pin in one side of the cable and in the same side, it connects 2 wires to one terminal. Is this ok? Which side should I plug into the power supply. See pics:

The original monitor stand doesn't fit any of my suitcases. I'm looking for something that fits, and that it's cheap, but it does the job. I need it to meet this requirements: - It fits in a 24" suitcase - Don't look like blades (like the original stand) - Supports the Monitor (of course) - Is available on Amazon Prime US - Only holds 1 monitor - As cheap as possible I was thinking on something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CHA4RYU Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thank you for the replies, I had no idea the 600p had this bad reputation, good thing you guys alerted me. Thank you for showing me this link. I think I would totally buy the mx300 750GB if the price was 169.99, but the store they say they have to this price in stock, once you get in the store, it's unavailable, and the other ones are more expensive. About the mx300, I've heard it performs worse than the 850 evo, and it uses TCL, and the lifespan is shorter than the 850 evo. I'm considering buying the mx300 525GB which is 129 USD. Do you think it's a good idea or I would be better off with the 850 evo instead? Yes, I know, I wrote this in my post, but it supports PCIe x2, which goes up to 1000MB/s and the 850 evo will go only up to 500Mb/s, but I didn't know about the performance issues mentioned here, regarding the 600p

I'm looking for a 500GB SSD for less than 200 USD. What do I want with the SSD: - Shorter gaming load times - Durability and long lifespan - Storage Capacity (At least 500GB) File transfer speed has to be decent, but it's not the most important thing for me. Both of these two SSDs have a similar price, but one is Sata, and the other is a M.2 PCIe 4x Nvme For gaming load speeds, from what I've seen, there no much difference between the two, but the file transfer speed from the Intel 600p is significantly better than the 850 evo, and the price is similar. Problem is, I have a Asus Maximum Hero VII: Manual: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/MAXIMUS-VII-HERO/E9192_Maximus_Vii_Hero.pdf A Z97 motherboard with a M.2 PCIe 2x only connector, which from what I've read, it has a limitation of 1000Mb/s (2 * 500), so I will be getting a slower performance than expected. I thought about buying a PCIe NVME Adapter Card, but those cost more than 40 bucks, making the M.2 solution more expensive than the sata and I want it to save as much money as possible. So, my question is: Is it still worth getting the Intel 600p, or should I just get the 850 evo instead?

It's out of warranty a long time ago

So, I have this psu: Corsair 650W TX650M It's a semi-modular psu with basically only the PCI-E connectors being modular. These are the connectors: ATX Connector 1 EPS Connector 1 Floppy Connector 2 Four Pin Peripheral Connector 8 PCIe Connector 2 SATA Connector 8 Although it says it has 8 sata connectors, for some reason, mine only has 4, and 1 is broken, and I have 1 SSD + 2 HDD and I'm planning on buying another SSD. I need more Sata Power connectors, question is, what can I buy? Can I use these black outputs to plug a modular sata cable like this? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Sleeved-6Pin-to-3x-SATA-Modular-Cable-for-Antec-PSU/32495752500.html?spm=2114.40010308.4.2.knAPiJ Or maybe I buy one of those: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Power-Y-Splitter-Inches/dp/B00V6QA65G/ Or this MOLEX to SATA: https://www.amazon.com/RiteCable-Molex-Power-Splitter-Cable/dp/B01C7QTKJG/ Which one would be the smartest choice?

I've heard 1080 Ti it's going to make its first appearance in the CES 2017, which is going to happen in early January. My question is, how long it usually takes to a product to be available for being purchased by the public, after being featured in CES? Or better yet, when would I be able to buy the new 1080 Ti?

That's exactly my doubt, will the fact of not being the native resolution make it noticeably blurrier than the 1080p panel. This is just a hypothetical question, in my case I will have the hardware to play at 1440p with no problem. This is the reason I had this question: Let's say one day they finally release a Ultra-wide 1440p >=100Hz with ULMB, since you can't use ULMB and G-Sync at the same time, and ULMB requires at least 85Hz, I was considering using ULMB + V-Sync, and that mean I would have to mantain 85+ FPS all the time, and in 3440x1440 this is kinda hard, so I was thinking: Maybe if I run the games at 2560x1080, that would be achievable, but I'm concerned that the image would get too much blurry because it's not the native resolution.

This is just for curiosity: Consider the following: - Same display size (Let's say 24") - The 1440p panel has good interpolation. Now compare a game in 1920x1080 on a 1080p panel (native resolution) and a game in 1920x1080 on a 1440p panel. Will the image on the 1440p panel look a lot worse or it would look almost the the same as in the 1080p panel?

Just be aware this Samsung Monitor is a VA panel, all the others are IPS, so you will expect less color accuracy and worse viewing angles. But it's a 1440p 100Hz with Freesync though.

I had the U3415W. It's a great monitor, but don't count on overclocking to 75Hz, it adds a lot of ghosting and stuttering. I was able to achieve 80Hz but 60Hz looked way smoother, even compared to 75Hz. If you are gaming, don't buy one without G-sync or Free-Sync, that's why I got rid of mine. Screen tearing is very present with this monitor without V-Sync and that means that you are going to have to keep your frame-rate above 60FPS at all times.