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ztmj96

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About ztmj96

  • Birthday Jan 09, 1996

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Basketball, movies, reading, technology
  • Biography
    This are the specifications of my rig:

    Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Artic White
    Monitor: Dell U2312HM 23" LED Monitor
    Motherboard: ASUS P8H77-V
    Display: PowerColor Radeon HD7950 3GB GDDR5
    Processor: Intel Core i5-3750 CPU @ 3.40GHz (with Turbo Boost to 3.80)
    Water cooling: Corsair H60 CPU Cooler
    RAM: Kingston 4GB DDR3 x 2
    Storage: Intel 520 Series 120GB SSD + Western Digital 1TB Black
    Sound card: Asus Xonar DX 7.1
    Power supply: FSP 750W Aurun Series Gold 80+ Modular
    Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K90
    Mouse: Razer Deathadder 2013
    Headphones: Audio Technica ATH-AD700X
  • Occupation
    Student
  • Member title
    Junior Member

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Community Answers

  1. ztmj96
    So how do you tell if an amp is suitable for a speaker?
  2. ztmj96
    Any other reason why I should stick with Class D instead of Class T? There are some Class T amps that seem to meet my needs. I need another opinion. Would you recommend the SMSL A2 40WPC TDA7492 Class D or SMSL SA-98E 160WPC TDA7498E? The A2 has a subwoofer output and 3.5mm input but the SA-98E has a comparatively higher power output.
  3. ztmj96
    Well, I do have limited desktop space and I'm on a budget of about US$100.
  4. ztmj96
    Hi LTT forum, Recently I'm trying to improve the audio setup on my PC, which previously only has a sound card (Xonar DX) , a pair of headphones (ATH-AD700X) and a cheap speaker setup. I decided to upgrade my speakers and bought the Q Acoustics 2020i which has this set of specs: Enclosure type: 2-way reflex Bass Unit: 125m Treble Unit: 25mm Frequency Response: 64Hz - 22kHz Nominal Impedance: 6ohm Minimum Impedance: 4.0ohm Sensitivity: 88dB Recommended Power: 25 - 75w Crossover Frequency: 2.9kHz Dimensions H/D/W mm:265 x 278 x 170 Unbeknown to be, I had no clue that passive speakers need to be powered by an amp. Now what I know is that I will have to power them with an amp/DAC that is of Class T or D? This is the part where it gets confusing. Can the SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier drive the speakers? From I see, the power output is sufficient and the rear I/O has the required ports. My questions are: 1) What is the difference between the above mentioned amp and other Class T amps, like the SMSL Q5 PRO 2x50W? Is it just difference in sound quality? 2) The 2020i recommends power of 25 - 75W, so does that mean that the Topping TP22 30WPC Class T TK2050 T-AMP HiFi Digital Amplifier with an amplifier output of 30W@4Ω barely meets the requirement to drive the speakers? And something like the Topping VX1 24Bit / 96KHz TA2021B Class T Vertex Headphone Amplifier + USB DAC with output of 24.4W@4Ω would choke? Can someone please kindly guide me through this?
  5. ztmj96
    Prior to this I thought that the OS was entirely dependent on the storage drive itself, so as long as I plug the same drive into the SATA port, everything would be imported. So what happens if you actually do that? Will the data not be read off the drive? What error would show up?
  6. ztmj96
    Huh, something I learnt today. Why is the OS tied to the motherboard?
  7. ztmj96
    I want to be ready for Skylake because MSI released its Z170 Krait Motherboard which would go beautifully with the colour build I'm trying to achieve here. But I just ordered a new DDR3 RAM kit recently which will be incompatible with 1151 motherboards! :angry:
  8. ztmj96
    I will check out the motherboard. Chances are that the fault lies with the motherboard I think, because now the BIOS resets itself every single time I boot up the computer. Is it possible that the GPU sparked due to possibly faulty PCI-E connection? I'm worried that the same thing might happen when I eventually plug in my new video card. I let it air for a week, so it should probably be thoroughly dried out now.
  9. ztmj96
    How this started was that some water leaked into my PC last week. After letting it dry, I tried booting it up. Then I smelled smoke and I saw a flame at the PCB of the GPU. I doubt it can be used anymore. Now I'm worried of the possibility that the motherboard or power supply could have caused the flame, perhaps due to a short in the electricity. How likely is it? My computer boots fine without the GPU now, but sometimes it doesn't POST despite fans spinning, or the BIOS is reset. I'm not sure of the root of the problem. What do you suggest I should do now?
  10. ztmj96
    I ordered this on Amazon just 2 days ago for $53 and now it's for $39... FML
  11. ztmj96
    Congratulations, Linus! As a fan of your channel for years since the days of rudimentary "unboxings", I'm really proud of you and the Linus Media Group team! I still remember the very first few WAN shows which were different but awesome all the same. Continue to educate consumers in this exciting technological age!
  12. ztmj96
    Oh apologies, I forgot to address that. It's actually the opposite. My old router was 4 years old and my new one is pretty strong. I live in an apartment and I'm getting 4 bars compared to 3 in the past. My phone can detect both networks in the same room as the computer, so I think that's ruled out.
  13. ztmj96
    Hey guys, So basically I have a custom PC with a Rosewill RNX-N250PCe wireless adapter. A while back it was still working fine and it could connect to my home Wi-Fi most of the times. Two weeks ago I upgraded the connection to a fibre network and the adapter can't connect to the network any longer. I was given a new router: DIR-865L, dual-band 802.11ac. So now there's a 2.4Ghz and a 5.0Ghz network. Another PC can connect to either networks, but the problematic one can detect neither. A few networks in the area showed up but none of them was mine. There were two occasions when it could detect and connect to the 2.4Ghz network but that was it. The next time the computer was switched on none of my networks showed up. I've spent quite some time searching for an answer online but there wasn't any solution. So I'm turning to you guys. Thanks in advance! What I've done: Booted up the computer in safe mode. Same problem. Reinstalled the driver. Nope. Change PCIe slot. (I was desperate.) Messed around with the adapter settings. I forgot to mention that it's unlikely to be attributed due to a weak signal because my mobile devices can detect both networks in the same room as the computer. I'm also getting relatively stronger signals on another computer.
  14. ztmj96
    I'm interested to know what you guys think!
  15. ztmj96
    The patch has made things better for some, but worse for others. I believe it's hardware compatibility issues. It's actually smoother for me now.
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