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Shark With A Laser

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Everything posted by Shark With A Laser

  1. I did a reinstall but it still happens randomly. I just got frustrated and changed all my games to windowed borderless, lol. Whatever, the minor FPS loss will be less annoying than this inconvenience of having to restart or open another full screen-game/exit and hope it doesn't happen again.
  2. Yes, I've tried running in windowed full screen and so far there haven't been issues — so far the problem seems mostly tied to when a fullscreen game closes, but it's not consistently an issue, I'd guesstimate maybe 10-20% of the time at most will I run into this problem. I've tried running with the other two programs off but it didn't seem to make a difference. This is mostly an annoyance, but was wondering if anyone else had experienced it (Google-fu isn't showing me any related results).
  3. Bump, incase anyone might have insight or any familiarity with this issue. Thanks!
  4. Depending on your component selection you might be better off putting that extra $80 into a better CPU or GPU.
  5. I sometimes get a very weird error on my computer when I exit a fullscreen game (e.g. GTA V, AC: Odyssey) where my computer will display two mouse cursors. The cursor on the left is the real cursor and there is an identical one slightly to the right that follows the main cursor around but does nothing. When this error happens my cursor gets stuck on my main monitor and cannot "cross" the bezels into one of my secondary monitor screens. The only way around it so far has been to open up another game that goes into fullscreen, exit and hope the error doesn't present again, or to restart my computer. This only seems to happen when I am exiting a game that was set to fullscreen resolution. Currently using Windows 10 1903. Not sure if this matters, but I am running Wallpaper Engine and Rainmeter in the background. Hardware is in my signature, but I'm not convinced it's part of the problem.
  6. The Evolv X is an update of the Evolv which had issues with airflow due to the front panel design. Phanteks expanded the space on the front panel so that it could still intake air through side slits while maintaining the front aesthetic. The P600s was derived from the Evolv X but is more focused on giving you the option of better airflow or having a more silent system with extra padded acoustic panels. It also has some minor redesigns on the side panel, since the P600s no longer requires removing thumbscrews to remove the side panels. The Evolv X is more expensive because it has two ARGB strips on the front panel, an ARGB strip along the PSU shroud, has two tempered glass panels (the back is also glass), and has two cable shields that also double as SSD mounting trays (up to 9 SSDs in this configuration); otherwise the two cases are almost identical. If aesthetics is more of your thing the Evolv X is probably the one you want, but if you want better airflow or a quieter sounding system you should go for the P600s.
  7. It's probably a lot easier for reviewers to replace the CPU under an AIO than a giant tower cooler. Linus and Alex did have a recent comparison between some AIOs and air coolers and the Noctua NH-U12A was very competitive and beat some of the AIOs. It's a rather expensive tower ($100 US), but it's a smaller form factor and doesn't really obscure the RAM.
  8. The Corsair 570x comes with 3 120 RGB fans, but I'm not a fan of that much tempered glass, much less the way thumbscrew mounting mechanism.
  9. Glad we could help you find a case! Just as an update, I was watching a build video inside an Evolv X (same layout as the P600s but different front panel) and the builder was able to fit two 360 rads, although he did mount the front fans on the outside of the panel front. I went with the Anthracite Grey as I wasn't sure what color them I wanted for my system, but I don't think you can go wrong with any of the 3 colors. The build quality is just awesome and they include a nice little utility box with all of your case screws in it
  10. Yeah, this is all on Cooler Master, because it makes everything confusing. It doesn't help that NZXT also has their own H500 and H500i cases. If I remember correctly the: H500P is the original case that was lambasted by a few TechTubers (most notably Steve from GamersNexus) for having poor airflow and build quality H500P Mesh fixes some of the structural issues with the H500P and changes out the front glass panel with mesh H500M is premium upgrade (most expensive version) over the P and includes an optional mesh or glass front panel H500 (no suffix) is a cheaper version of the M but with just mesh panels and a shortened power supply shroud, basically a "base" model even though it was the last one released The video I linked was specific to having a 420 rad in the front and trying a 360 in the top — he recommends a 280 instead. It looks like it should have space to do two 360 rads, but you might have to be mindful of the positioning of the fittings or you could have issues with installing tubing. It might also depend on if you plan to do a push-pull configuration on your top radiator, it could have some potential clearance issues with the front rad. I can't say with certainty on this since I've never installed any radiators and only went with two 120 fans in the top in the middle and back (I didn't think installing 3rd top fan in the front most position made sense since it looked like it would just exhaust air that just came in from the top-most front intake fan). It does cool fairly well, especially if you decide to remove the front panel to allow in as much air as possible. The quietness of the case probably depends more on the type of fans you install, the speeds you run them at, and whether or not you choose to put your case on the ground or on your desk. Mine is on my desk and I only really hear it when the system is under load (I use Corsair ML fans so they're not particularly noisy). The case is certainly quieter if you keep the panels on, but the temperatures are a bit higher. Unfortunately GN didn't do a definitive thermal test review on the P600s, but the reviews from HardwareCanucks and Science Studio were very positive.
  11. The P600s is a bit bigger than the Enthoo Pro M (5mm wider, 30mm taller, and 10mm deeper) and has 15mm more GPU clearance. It can also fit up to a 420 rad in the front VS a 360 max on the Pro M. You may have some issues if you try to mount two rads in it though as pointed out by eTeknix. If you were going to consider the CoolerMaster H500M as well as a Phanteks case, I would probably opt for the P600s over the Pro M since H500m and P600s are actually in the same price bracket here in the US (~ $170). But I'm also biased since I have a P600s, lol. I don't think you'd go wrong with either the P600s or H500M as both are great cases with a lot of room for water cooling. They both offer the ability to vertically mount a GPU which looks much better with a custom water block VS a giant air cooler. If you have any specific questions on the P600s I can try to answer them, but I air cool all of my parts and haven't had any experience with installing radiators in it.
  12. I have a P600S which has identical internals to the Evolv X. My 3 front 140mm Corsair ML fans are plugged into the fan hub at the top and the 4 pin PWM cable from the hub itself is connected to my MoBo. I've left my 2 top and 1 rear exhaust fans separately connected into my board so I can apply different RPM %s from the front hub which all run at the same speed. As the other poster noted make sure you have also connected SATA power to the hub.
  13. Glad you were able to work it out! If you don't mind, but could you mark this thread as solved? Your front RGB has manual control with the buttons up top, but could be software controlled with the RGB marked cables connected into a compatible motherboard. It's just a nice option Phanteks gave to buyers to have more choices.
  14. The buttom fatter 3 pin female connector in picture 6 looks like your fan's power cable you should be able to plug into your MoBo. The right side of the connector (as oriented in your picture) has a groove that should help you line it up with the CHA_FAN pins on your MoBo. The connector with the arrow looks similar to connectors I have for a set of RGB strips. The arrow is supposed to indicate a connection orientation because one of the pins is a ground (at least in my case, not sure about your 3 pins).
  15. Hmm, well this is highly unusual. I've seen fans with only a 3 pin female connector, but I've yet to come across one with 3 male pins. I have a Phanteks case myself, but the included fans were 4 pin female connectors. Are you able to remove the fan from the case and take a picture of it with the cables or would this be too difficult with everything installed?
  16. This looks like the cable for software control of your case's two front RGB strips. You would plug it into an RGB header on a compatible motherboard. I don't believe ASRock mobos are compatible since Phanteks' website only indicates compatability with ASUS Aura Sync and MSI Mystic Light software. You'll likely have to exert manual control of the front RGB strips using the two RGB buttons on the top of the case and leave that D-RGB cable unplugged. Your two included 120mm case fans should have their own separate PWM cables that go into your Mobo's CHA_FAN # headers.
  17. The Lian Li O-11 Dynamic seems really popular and Gamers Nexus gave it the Best Overall Case for 2018 Award. A bit more expensive than a Define S, but in the same pricing tier as the Meshify S2.
  18. That case is also obscenely expensive at $500 US, lol.
  19. Is this an absolute requirement in your case selection? Do you need a USB-C in the front as well or just 3.1/2.0s? And it seems like your preference is for a relatively flat front so no mesh front cases then?
  20. I have 6 RGB fans connected into two separate Lightning Node PROs and neither retains lightning profile configurations. Whenever I'm turning on/off my computer it's in the default RGB mode. Only my K70 keyboard retains a lightning profile without needing to load iCue.
  21. Corsair's own marketing video seems to indicate it should work with any of their "RGB" fans. I have 3 MLs and 3 LL RGB fans connected into two Lightning Node PROs which are then connected as separate channels into a single RGB hub. The CORE basically replaces my two Node PROs and RGB hub with a single unit.
  22. You should be able to connect any of the Corsair RGB Pro fans into the Lightning Node Core. I believe this only controls the RGB functions itself, you will still have to plug the PWM cables into your motherboard directly in order to control fan speeds. Corsair RGB fans are a bit of a nightmare for cable management since each fan has two cables: A PWM power cable that you can connect to the motherboard or a fan control hub A proprietary Corsair 5V addressable RGB cable that is connected into a Commander/Lightning Node/Core unit So just connect the thinner looking RGB control cables into the CORE on the back of your case and connect the CORE's USB 2.0 header into your motherboard. The CORE also has a SATA power connector that will need to be connected to your PSU. Make sure to plug the fans into the CORE in sequential order and don't skip a number or the iCue software won't register any fans after the skipped number. Then connect all of the fans PWM cables into your motherboard and you should be set. This video does a pretty good job of explaining all of the connections between Corsair RGB fans and your case/motherboard. You can skip some of the stuff in the middle since the CORE combines the Lightning Node PRO and the lightning hub into a single unit.
  23. Well, if price isn't a concern at all maybe he could go with the ASRock Aqua? Just a cool $1k.
  24. I think it's going to be a bit difficult to find a case that has a nice side panel and RGB fans (that aren't terrible) at the price point you're looking at, unless you're willing to spend $70 on the case alone and spend more on fans separately. But I did have 3 potential recommendations: Deepcool Matrexx 55 with the 3 RGB fan option ($80). I'm not sure how good the fans are and the chassis itself appears to have very average build quality (the case without any fans is just $40). Cooler Master MasterBox ($85): Comes with 3 RGB fans installed in the front as intakes, but it's out of the price range you wanted. Newegg did have a $10 mail-in-rebate when I was looking at it, but I think it will expire very soon. Phanteks P350X: Has a front panel with RGB strips that will obscure the front intake fans, so you could get away with no RGB fans there and just install two RGB fans in the top and back as exhaust. However, that case only retails with a single 120mm fan, so you will need to supply the other fans. Before you get too deep into RGB you need to consider which RGB ecosystem(s) you're going to use because they don't always play nice with each other (e.g. Corsair iCue and MSI's Mystic Light). It can also be a bit more annoying to coordinate cheaper RGB components due to their control mechanisms.
  25. I don't have personal experience with either but try taking a look at a Phanteks P350x or NZXT H500. They are both at the upper end of the price range you listed, but I think the P350X might have all the things you're looking for (I have a P600, which is fairly similar but bigger, and am very happy with it). Do you need a case that comes with a lot of fans or are you going to supply your own?
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