Bobe
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Wasn't sure if this topic belonged here, but it seemed the closest. I'm looking to pick up some wireless earbuds, but I'm having trouble finding the right ones for me. I'm not looking for a fully-featured model with microphones, assistants, fitness tracking etc., I'm simply after wireless earbuds. I'd like to spend no more than about AUD$200-250. I only have a few requirements/preferences: Purely wireless (not a wireless band) Audio quality, bass (currently using Sennheiser CX500s and I consider them pretty decent for their age and price) Comfort, stayinability Decent single-charge battery life (3 hours min), charging case Some nice-to-haves: Slim charging case (I use a slim bag for my Surface so I don't like to add a lot of depth to it) Audio transparency toggle/adjustment Two models I have been looking at recently are the Bragi The Headphone (~AUD$210) and the EARIN M-1 (~AUD$185), though the latter's inability to automatically turn off would probably irritate me. For what it's worth I'm currently using an iPhone 6 Plus and possibly an 8 Plus later on, but I don't imagine that would affect much.
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I disconnected all drives after letting the CMOS reset and I can pretty much confirm the boot drive is damaged somehow. I was able to boot from the USB without any long pauses with all drives removed. I then connected the boot drive and tried to boot from USB and the issue returned. I then plugged that drive into a different SATA port and the issue remained. I then disconnected that drive and plugged in the other SSD and it works fine. I don't imagine then if I can't boot from the USB with the damaged drive plugged in that I have any chance of performing any troubleshooting or repair operations on it? Reading a few more articles, I have just learned about security freeze lock. Is it possible this is what happened as a result of my resetting the computer during the blue screen?
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I've never had a BSOD that actually led to death, and when I say a really long time, I mean I thought it was frozen. I'll try resetting the CMOS again, but like I said the USB installation is not working, the closest I got is when booting the non-UEFI option. I verified it by booting my Surface from it and it almost immediately loaded the Windows setup screen.
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Yes, it's another one of these. I was on my computer the other day when suddenly I encountered a BSOD (UNEXPECTED_STORE_EXCEPTION). It was taking a really long time to "gather some information" so I just hit the reset button. When it restarted, it just loaded up the BIOS. I exited it and again BIOS. Tried loading defaults, no avail. I also tried clearing the CMOS and unplugging all USB devices except keyboard and mouse. After those attempts I flashed the latest BIOS. All hardware is being detected properly, so I figure it's either an issue with Windows or the boot drive. I created a Windows 10 USB (FAT32) with the media creation tool, and it shows up as a bootable device, but booting from it just hangs at the motherboard splash screen. Interestingly, if I select the non-UEFI USB option, I get a Windows logo splash screen which just goes to a black screen after about 30 seconds. Really not sure what else to try. I didn't want to start pulling out hardware unless there was a legitimate possibility of that being a potential cause. Windows 10 64-bit Asus Z97 Sabertooth Mark 2 i5-4690K (boost overclocked to 4.5 but very decent cooling and stable voltage) 2x8GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance Gigabyte GTX980 4GB G1 Gaming Samsung 850 EVO 256GB (boot drive) Samsung 850 EVO 500GB Western Digital Blue 1TB Corsair AX760i
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I figured, but I'm confused as to why it's unstable when it's half the overclock that the linked guide achieved. The max voltage offset can't go any higher, would there be anything else setting a voltage limit?
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So I decided to start playing around with overclocking my card, which I never intended to do, but if I can squeeze a little extra juice to help with some more demanding games, including modded Skyrim, I thought why not. I read this guide/review over at HARDOCP and decided to try something a bit more modest: I ran several Heaven benchmarks and didn't run into any stability issues, they all ran fine. But when I jumped into Rocket League (not that it needed the extra performance), the card seemed to lock up about 2 or so minutes in. The monitors would go black and come back on a few moments later (like when display drivers fail). Sometimes the application remains black, sometimes it comes back but running at lower than stock speeds, not even getting 60 fps. The same thing happened in Skyrim; the game launched fine and ran well, but a few minutes in just blackness. The voltage seemed to sit at 1.250 V before stopping, temperatures were fine, well below 60C. I have the latest drivers (376.19). Also, is there any reason I should be using Afterburner instead of Guru? I used to use it, but I figured having a Gigabyte card it might make more sense to use their tool (I understand Afterburner isn't just for MSI cards).
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Thanks. I just installed a minor update to the audio manager, not sure if that did it, but now the speakers are detected as a new analog output.
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- logitech
- steelseries
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So I've had a Steelseries H Wireless headset for just over a year and they've been great, but the other day as I was retracting the boom mic the left earpiece suddenly cut out. After a quick Google I discovered that the probable cause was the mic rubbing up against the speaker wire over time and ultimately dislodging it. I've already submitted an RMA ticket, but that's not the topic of this thread. As a temporary solution, and as something I should really have anyway, I went and bought a Logitech Z333 2.1 speaker system. But now I'm at a loss as to how to set it up. I have the satellites plugged into the subwoofer, but I'm not sure which jack to put it in the PC: green (line in), orange (C/SUB) or black (rear). Only green and black allows me to select the type of device from within Realtek audio manager. The headset DAC is using optical/digital output and the only analog output devices in the playback devices window is the headset.
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Why do I need Chocolatey? Node.js and npm should work fine on Windows right? And why are all the Node.js directories being separated? Node.js in Program Files, npm is in User, and then I installed Foundation CLI via npm which got put in AppData/Roaming.
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So I want to move forward as a web developer and I'm trying to sink my teeth into Sass, but I've had a lot of trouble just trying to get it set up properly. I'll just outline my current situation: Running Windows 10 Use Sublime Text 3 for all editing Node.js and npm installed in Program Files node-sass installed in User directory (by default) Nodejs, npm and Sass packages for ST3 installed So where I'm confused is how to properly make use of Sass. Can I use Sublime Text alone as an interface with the global installation of node-sass for all my projects? As a side question, how do I properly set the paths for the Nodejs package? I have the "node_command" path set as "C:\\Program Files\\nodejs\\node.exe" and "npm_command" as "C:\\Program Files\\nodejs\\npm.cmd". However, both node and npm commands return the following: Traceback (most recent call last): File "<string>", line 1, in <module> NameError: name 'node' is not defined
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I usually build sites using the ExpressioneEngine CMS, but I've run into situations where that would be entirely too much overkill for what I actually need. For example, I'm currently working on a site for a small restaurant; it basically doesn't need to be more than an online poster. They wouldn't be posting articles or anything, the content would be mostly static. The one key thing they would need control over however are the menus (for food, not navigation). I'm searching for a very simple and user friendly system that will allow the client to simply log in and manage their menus, which are displayed dynamically in the template. It's easily small enough that flat file would suffice. Obviously something like this could just be made from scratch, but I don't have the time to relearn that stuff right now.
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Interesting, I just ran Windows Update which installed a cumulative update for Windows 10 that seems to have fixed it. Wifi now turns off when in sleep mode.
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So what am I doing by unchecking the "stay connected to Wi-Fi while asleep" options?
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I recently bought a Surface 3 (not a Pro 3) and found that while I have unchecked the "stay connected to Wi-Fi while asleep" option for both battery and AC power, the device remains connected to the network, thus the antenna stays on, while asleep. Is there anything that may be overriding this behaviour, or is it just another Microsoft bug? It's a larger issue than just saving power, as while the Surface remains connected to the network, I seem to experience periodic outages reflected in the router log as a WLAN access rejected notice associated with the Surface's MAC address. The Surface is running Windows 10 Home 64-bit.
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Yeah, that's why I put "DoS attack" in quotation marks. I doubt that's an issue, our internet is fed in by coaxial cable to a CG3100D-2 modem. However, it's probably a good idea to upgrade anyway, it is fairly old and I'm sure newer models are far more reliable. I just need to decide if I'm willing to pay extra for an AC router, and maybe shifting away from Netgear.
