Robby Ramirez

How do one has to change the fan curve in order to get more consistent temperatures instead of does picks and valleys?

I'm planning to replace my cryorig H7 cooler that I have for the 7600K for a AIO liquid cooler, my plan is to go for a Corsair AIO cooler, just to keep the other Corsair brand components I have in sync, but I'm not sure of the actual difference performance between the h115i and the h115i PRO, I know the pro has a generation 6 pump or something like that, but when I search for benchmark I get mix result thank to fan configurations, im going to replace the fans with a pair of 140mm ML Corsair fans anyway an also the coolers are exactly the same price (but I personally don't like the looks of the pro...) So, what would be the better option to buy? And is there any difference in performance at all thanks to that new pump?

They do talk about overflow in simulations, and it's seems it does have some benefits, but my question remains, how this affect budget gaming? What I see if that a test with the ssd's and a low memory systems should be done, testing how well games responds to the pagefiling and superfecht of optane ssd's, but if what Electeonic Wizard says it's true and there is a software limitations then there is no point.

Maybe, but let's talk about a new build, instead of buying 16Gb of ram and a small SSD for boot, wouldn't be a better option to just buy a 800p series optane drive? Now again, I don't know if this will work, it's just an idea that needs testing

So windows is not design for moving thing in an out of the pagefiling, is that what your saying?

I saw the video of the 800p series and didnt saw any testing on overflow, can you tell me at what time in the video they talk about that, maybe I missed

Because your also getting a fast SSD for the price

So I recently was helping a friend in fixing an issue with none of his games working and he assuring me he didn't move anything, so after reinstalling drivers for EVERYTHING and trying a set of difference test we weren't able to find a solution until I ask him to assign more memory to his pagefiling, there is were I realized that he deactivated pagefiling completely, his excuse was that he was trying to fix the disk at 100% problem and a YouTube video told him to deactivate pagefiling and superfecht.... But after all of this we were thinking how to upgrade his 8GB of ram, and we came with a posible Solution but one that we have no testing of, What if instead of expending 100dish dollars on a new 8Gb memory stick, how about replacing his boot HDD with an Intel 800p optane SSD?, The logic behind this was that with the low latency of the 3Dxpoint technology we could keep the 8Gb of ram and use the SSD high performance pagefiling as a "secondary ram" when the system needs it. Not only he wouldn't have more memory problems but he would also get a fast SSD boot drive, 2 for the price of one, at the moment of writing this I can fine the SSD at Newegg for 117 Dollars for 58Gb, that's more than enough for basic windows and a few programs and a lot to spare for pagefiling, in comparisons a similar SSD would cost him 50 dollars plus the extra ram stick another 100 dollars. But like I said I have no way of testing this and I can fine any comparisons with the SSD with this theory in mind or even a ram disk, but I'm curious if there any mistakes in my logic. This could reduce 1% low in games and help people with a better solution for stupid DRAM prices. The tables below where taken from this video of hardware unbox:

So i have a setup were my pc is on the other side of the room, meaning i need to run a 25ft HDMI cable from the pc to the monitor and it has work great with my 1080 60Hz monitor, but now i'm updating to a 2560 x 1080 monitor, and i'm planing to use display port for this, but i'm worry that the length of the cable will not allow the monitor to work at its intended 2560 x 1080 resolution at 75hz with the only display port 1.2 that it has.

But i already have a power supply, "https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switching-Converter-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B01E6S0JS4" It's currently powering a 32ft led strip and a 25 watt amplifier for a sub-woofer. So i imagine it will still be enough to power the other led strip and the fairy lights, but i don't know about powering the switch, but if you say the wifi components inside it only take a few watts, it should be more than enough right?

That sound okey, but how do i power the Smart Switch? all the products i found are rated for 120 to 240 volts, so i imagine the 12v from my power supply would not be adequate to power the wifi components on the switch, or would they? (Im pretty basic when it comes to circuits and electricity so please give me a hand with this). My plan was to use something like this "https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Compatible-Fixtures-Anywhere-Protection/dp/B0773HJ2DH/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1516082957&sr=8-8&keywords=smart+light+switch+wifi" And here is a really professional paint diagram i made that may help understand what im trying to do.

So i'm wiring a set of led strips into a small 12v power supply, but i also want to be able to turn off and on the LED's with Alexa control, my problem is that i cant find anything that would do that. No, i cant just buy a smart plug for the power supply because i also use it for my sub woofer. My plan was to buy a smart light switch, and installed on the wall, but i don't know if the low voltage of the power supply will be enough to power the components on the switch and make it work. I would appreciate any recommendations or suggestion in how to make this work.

Not with me, but this is the cable I bought "http://www.ebay.com/itm/252091645115?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" The original cable its cut in half the and the silver contacts on the top and bottom of the cable are broken.

So i recently bought a new cable replacement to the power bottom to motherboard for my notebook it wasn't from the same model of my laptop but it has the 6 connections i needed so i imagine i will work with no problem, but when i try it the only thing that the button did after pressing in it was to flash the screen on and off if i hold the button the screen will stay off, but its not turn in off the PC or on suspend it, its just turn in off the screen while its pressed.

MY mistake i didn't mean to refer to a restore usb i was referring to this "https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10/". trying to install a new copy of windows from the usb also causes the pc to freeze.