FoxHunter

Thank You!

Pics added. Sorry for taking so long. Traveling with family.

First post in really long time. Well, it's time to update my dad's PC. He uses for day-to-day activities, so it's a low-end PC. My focus here is longevity, his last rig lasted 10 years (if not for security reasons and Windows 11, it could have lasted longer). I basically took PCPartPicker's Budget Home/Office Build guide with what he already had and made it my own guide/build. His previous PC specs were: CPU: Intel Core i3-2120 3.3 GHz Dual-Core Processor Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H61M-DS2 Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard Memory: Kingston 4 GB (1 x 4 GB) DDR3-1333 CL9 Memory Memory: Kingston HyperX Blu 4 GB (1 x 4 GB) DDR3-1333 CL9 Memory Storage: Intel 330 Series 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case Power Supply: Cooler Master MasterWatt 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply Wired Network Adapter: TP-Link TG-3468 PCIe x1 1 Gbit/s Network Adapter (faulty MB ethernet chip ) Custom: ORICO USB3.0 5-Port PCI-E Expansion Card with Dual Chip (PVU3-5O2I-V1) So, as you can see, a 10 year old PC with a great Case (from my old Personal Rig) and a recently bought PSU (the previous one was an Corsair CX430, which failed after 10 years of use). +4GB were added a few years later when I felt only 4GB were bottlenecking his system, matched specs with the one already in it. Parts Selection PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hLWGmk CPU: Intel Core i3-10105 3.7 GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard: MSI B560M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX LGA1200 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory Storage: Kingston KC2500 250 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case Power Supply: Cooler Master MasterWatt 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply CPU I wanted to wait for Intel's Alder Lake Core i3, but he needs a PC right now. For a brief moment I considered going with an Pentium Gold, but staying on 2C/4T might not survive the next 10 years. The only reason I chose the i3-10105 and not the 10100 was only 5 bucks more for 100MHz faster and a black cooler, to keep the aesthetics, even if there isn't a window to show it, I care about that in any build. CPU Cooler Intel's Stock black cooler, it's quite and more than enough for that CPU. Motherboard I could have cheaped out $20-30 bucks here, but I wanted a B560 motherboard because of Memory Overclocking. The must have features were Memory OC on 10th gen CPUs confirmed by the manufacture, 2 or more Case Fan headers, and Bluetooth so my father can connect his phone and his wireless Headphones. Memory I like to select memory with First World Latency of 10ns or less. 4GB might have been fine, but as I see Windows getting more memory use as time goes on, so than, I first decided to go with 8GB, but it would feel empty to put only one Stick in a Motherboard with 4 Memory Slots, so I wanted memory with 2 Sticks. Prices for 2x4GB memory are only 5-10 bucks cheaper than 2x8GB, so it doesn't make sense getting them. I had to choose between a Silicon Power 3200Mhz CL16 kit that looked cheap or spend $5 more on a G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 3600MHz CL18 kit. Well... Storage Even though, PCP's guide recommends a 500GB NVME SSD, my father didn't even fill half of his old 120GB SATA SSD, so I could cheap out a few dollars on a 250GB-ish SSD. This Kingston KC2500 was on sale and is a tier higher in LTT's SSD Tier List than the "best bang for the buck" WD SN570. I didn't want to go with a 2.5" SATA SSD for clean aesthetics, using only two power cables for the entire build. GPU He only plays Solitaire, watch videos on YouTube, Social media, and live sports in streaming services. The Intel UHD 630 is more than capable to deliver that at 1080p 60Hz when hardware acceleration is enabled. Power Supply 80 Plus Bronze efficiency, Semi-Modular, Whisper quiet Fan, 5 year Warranty, Reputable Brand, and it doesn't explode. I believe it will last the next 10 years without any problems just like the previous one. Case Good construction quality, great airflow. Legendary Case. The Build

What about this? Taken from the Hardware Canucks 8700k review http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/76162-intel-coffee-lake-i7-8700k-i5-8400-review-7.html

What about download speeds, like large files from the cloud, should I even bother about the time that it will reach the max speeds? It's 10 mbytes/s down, and 4 mbytes/s up.

The only problem is, I'll lose the Gigabit connection, because my router is not 1Gbit, only up to 100Mbit. Do I need a modem with router capabilities so I can use my switch? I didn't see your edits.

Just tried that, I changed to 192.168.100.101 (.100 is the router) I have wired connection from the wireless router but no wireless connection.

I'm trying to make a Gigabit network . and I need to have three computers accessing another through the network, the files are RAW video archives, so I need the Gigabit connection so it can have faster transfer data, and also have wireless connections to devices. But, I don't want to spend money more that I already have. What I want to do is to connect the computers on wires using the switch so I can have the Gigabit transfer speeds, and a wireless connection to my devices. My network path right now is: Modem > 100/10 mbit Linksys WRT120N router > Computers and wireless devices. What I want to do is: Modem > Gigabit Switch (TP-Link TL-SG1008D) > Computers | 100/10 mbit Linksys WRT120N router > Wireless devices. The path "Modem > Gigabit Switch (TP-Link TL-SG1008D) > Wired connections to Computers" worked. but the Linksys WRT120N router don't distribute IPs now, so I don't have Wireless connection. The modem it's a Motorola SBV5122, so there's only one LAN port and the telephones are attached to that. Since it didn't worked, I came back to the old path. My main computer is inside another room, there's a computer right where the Modem and Switch is, and the router is centralized to the floor, far from the switch and modem. Why I don't want to stay the same: I need the Gigabit transfer speeds; I want my Wireless Router to be located at the centre of the floor, so the connection can be good at all rooms. I cannot do the path Modem > Router > Switch, I will lose the Gigabit connection and don't want a cable mess. Do I need to do some kind of configuration to my Linksys router so I can have Wi-Fi?

You see that Red light? It is the DRAM LED, if it's light up, it means you have a problem on your RAM, try reinstalling it carefully. EDIT: If it is a new RAM, push the MemOK button, so it can reset your Memory setting on BIOS.

The Kingston RAM worked just fine on my workstation, and it's OCed, going home with the Patriot to see if it's the RAM, but my guess is a bad motherboard.

Shutting Off, no warning shut down, no BOSD, no visual clues, and does not power itself on. I'm not a native speaker, my bad.

I've bring the RAM to my work, so I'll test on the PC I work on. It has an Intel Core i7-2600k 4.5GHz, ASUS P8Z68-V PRO, 2-kits 2x4GB Patriot Viper Xtreme 1600MHz (which I'll be testing on my Z87 Gryphon), GTX 560 Ti and Thermaltake TR2 800W.

I just ran once, and shut down on Test 10, pass 1 of 4. Trying other RAM tomorrow.

I already changed the PSU to an XFX XT 500w yesterday, and stills the same.

The first thing I did when happened the first time I updated the drivers and the BIOS, but still shutting down.