Travercraig

Thank you both for the confirmation. I had a feeling it would be fine but was just a little cautious as it wasn't on the QVL list.

Hi there, I would like to buy the Samsung 980 PRO PCIe 4.0 M.2 SSD 2TB and put on the fastest (blazing) m.2 slot of a ASRock X670E PG Lightning ATX AM5 Motherboard. However on the motherboards QVL list for storage it doesn't list the 2TB version of the Samsung 980 Pro PCIe 4.0, only the 1TB version. Does this mean the 2TB version of the drive won't work at all since it's not on the QVL list or does it just mean it hasn't been tested officially by the motherboard OEM? If the latter is true then does anyone have any experience with pairing together a Samsung 980 PRO PCIe 4.0 M.2 SSD 2TB and a ASRock X670E PG Lightning ATX AM5 Motherboard or similar ASRock board in the fastest blazing m.2 slot? I'm also welcome for suggestions for alternative 2TB PCIe 4.0 drives if the Samsung 2TB won't work. Thanks.

Hi there, I indeed bought a splitter as you suggested and it works perfectly. Thanks.

I like to switch my Xbox One X from my bigger TV for watching films to my 144htz 2k monitor for gaming. However the Xbox One X only has one HDMI out port, so I have to manually put in either the TV or monitor HDMI cable into the Xbox One X which is annoying. To solve this I think I need a HDMI switch that can manage 4k 60hz or with a bandwidth of at least 12.54 Gbit/s. I should also note that I’ll never have the TV and the monitor on at the same time, it’s one or the other, one of them will be switched off completely. However nearly all of the HDMI switches I’ve seen have a button toggle which is not what I’m after. Ideally I’d want a switch / box that just works for whatever device (TV or monitor) is currently in use. Like if my TV is on it just detects that there is a single HDMI input and vice versa for the monitor. I’m not even sure if a HDMI switch is what I even need. I just need a box / cable that has 1 HDMI in that the Xbox HDMI out plugs into and 2 HDMI outs that the TV and monitor HDMI’s plug into. Essentially I’m trying to simulate the Xbox having two HDMI outs if that makes sense. Does such a product exist, or is the only way with a button toggle HDMI switch? Any advice would be helpful thanks.

Thank you for your answer that has given me a bit more insight. That website you linked is very interesting, it does seem like it's a Oxygen OS issue then. I'll do a bit of further investigation now I know about this website. Also, I would update to OxygenOS 10 but I don't think OnePlus has released it yet for my 5T, so I'm not sure If I could. Any ideas?

I should preface this by saying this is a long post that has a lot of screenshots. For months possibly a year, I’ve been having an issue with certain apps where notifications either do not appear at all or are very delayed on the lock screen. Sometimes they do appear without delay, but it's very inconsistent. The delay can be anywhere from 20 min to 2 hours Often times when notifications don’t appear on the lock screen they appear as soon as I unlock the phone or open the app. The apps in question are Twitch TV and Discord. However WhatsApp and my Text message notifications never have any problems, I always see them on time and they wake up the lock screen. My phone is a One Plus 5T that runs the stock One Plus android OS. I should also note that I only use Wi-Fi and not mobile data such as 4G. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Things I’ve tried: There are a number of things I’ve tried which I will list here. Twitch in app mobile notifications: Ensured that when a streamer goes live I get notifications Ensured push notifications are enabled ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Twitch app phone settings: Battery usage → Background restriction = disabled Battery usage → Battery optimisation = not optimised App data usage → Background data = enabled App data usage → Unrestricted data usage = enabled Notifications → Show notifications = everything enabled ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Battery Phone Settings: Battery optimisation → Advanced → Deep optimisation = disabled Battery optimisation → Advanced → Sleep standby optimisation = disabled Battery → Adaptive battery = off -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other phone settings: Ambient display → New notifications = enabled Notifications → On lock screen = enabled System → Recent app management = normal clear Developer options → Standby apps = Twitch ACTIVE -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Google Services Framework phone settings: Battery usage → Background restriction = disabled Battery usage → Battery optimisation = no way to not optimise Notifications → Show notifications = everything enabled App Permissions → Read instant messages = enabled App Permissions → Write instant messages = enabled -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Misc: Locked twitch app to always run in the background (courtesy of this post) Installed push notifications fixer app Tried to find a setting for each app that’s not on my phone (I think you need a later one plus model for these settings), courtesy of this post. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Conclusion: None of the things I’ve tried have made any difference so far. I have no idea if it’s the apps, android or a one plus specific issue. If it’s a one plus specific issue I might be able to root the phone and install a custom ROM but that is an absolute last resort. A lot of people say OnePlus phones have overly aggressive memory mananagement, so that could be a factor. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi there, A while back I bought 2 AORUS AD27QD monitors but there are two issues i'm having with them. I like to run both monitors at the native resoloution of 2560 x 1440 at 120htz with Freesync and 10 bit colour. The first issue is that sometimes one or both of my monitors will be forced into 8 bpc colour depth, when I’ve set both to be 10 bpc. When it changes itself to 8 bpc things on my screen become fuzzy. Sometimes a restart fixes the issue and it goes back to being 10 bc with the fuzziness going away. Other times I have to restart like 10 times before it fixes itself. The next issue is that one or both of my monitors just turn themselves off for no reason. I have no idea why these issues are happening. could it be the GPU, Windows or the monitors themselves? Could it be because these older monitors are only on display port 1.2 and lack the bandwidth to run 10 bpc, with 120hz and Freesync enabled? Below is a screenshot of how my settings should be in the Nvidia control panel. When the bpc option says 8 bpc things like text and icons become fuzzy. I'm hoping someone could help me resolve this. It's impossible to tell if it's the GPU, Windows or the monitors themselves. Thanks.

I see, I could try that. Thank you for the suggestion. If only the Xbox One just had a 3.5mm audio out port, it would make life so much easier.

Yeah it seems to be the DAC. I did your test by unplugging the toslink cable from the DAC and the sound persists, so it must be the DAC. Could this be because it's a cheap DAC?

One i didn't get one, and two it would be shit compared to my proper senhieser headphones. Plus I doubt an xbox headset would even plug into my PC.

I recently bought one of these DAC’s so I can have sound coming from my Xbox One X Toslink port to my line-in port on my PC, and finally to my headset plugged into my PC. So it goes like this: Xbox One X → Toslink cable → DAC → 3.5mm cable → PC line-in → PC line-out → Headphones. The sound works fine but there is a problem. When I turn my Xbox off and it’s just on standby power, there is a loud screeching / popping sound, coming through my headset, as there must be some signal / interference coming from the Xbox or DAC. If I turn the Xbox on or turn the power plug off the sound goes away, it’s only occurs if the Xbox is in standby power. Is this the fault of the DAC? As it was a pretty cheap one. Or it could it be something else? Thanks.

Okay thanks for checking, on mine you can hear the whine / buzz far away, but as you get closer to to the top right it gets louder.

Just to ask, even if you put you ears close to the top right of your Masterkeys Pro S can you still not hear any coil whine or high pitched electrical noise?

Okay sounds like I'll have to contact them. Thanks.

I recently bought this keyboard from: https://www.scan.co.uk/, however after a few days I've noticed that there appears to be coil whine eminating from the top right of the keyboard. Exactly the same as described here in this reddit post: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5pwxz6/my_new_cooler_master_masterkeys_pro_s_has_coil/ I've tried using a different USB-C cable, trying diferent USB ports, disconnecting and reconnecting the keyboard, restarting the PC, disabling all LED's and even trying other computers. However none of this stops the coil whine. Note that I have not installed any of the software I have purely used the built in on board memory profiles for lighting. Does this sound normal, or should this not be happening on a keyboard? The only place I expect sopme coil whine is on power supplies and GPU's.

Okay cool. Thanks for the follow up reply.

I see, I didn't realise that. Thanks for letting me know. So could I run my toslink into this converter, then run a 3.5mm cable from the headphone jack of this converter to my line-in port on my pc, then plug my headphomes onto my pc cases headphone jack and it should all work? So Xbox One -> Toslink cable -> Converter -> 3.5mm cable -> motherboards line-in port -> pc case headphone jack -> headphones?

I see, I didn't realise that. Thanks for letting me know. So could I run my toslink into this converter, then run a 3.5mm cable from the headphone jack of this converter to my line-in port on my pc, then plug my headphomes onto my pc cases headphone jack and it should all work? So Xbox One -> Toslink cable -> Converter -> 3.5mm cable -> motherboards line-in port -> pc case headphone jack -> headphones?

Not sure, how would i be able to check this?

I’ve been trying to make it so that I can hear my Xbox One X and PC audio through my headset on PC at the same time. I wrote a previous question on the matter and it was concluded that I would need an optical toslink cable that ran from my Xbox Ones S/PDIF port into an optical toslink to 3.5mm jack adaptor that then plugged into my blue line-in port on my PC’s motherboard. So it looks like this: Xbox One S/PDIF → Optical Toslink cable → 3.5mm adaptor → PC motherboards line in port. Here are links to the optical cable and 3.5mm adaptor that I bought. However doing this doesn’t work at all. I plug everything in with the configuration and equipment above and there is no sound coming from the Xbox One to my PC headset. I can hear PC sound as normal though. There is a red light being reflected from the Xbox One’s S/PDIF port to the other end of the optical toslink cable, it also makes an audible pop through my headset when I plug the toslink cable into my PC motherboards blue in-line port indicating that the cable is probably functional. The PC is picking up the line-in device as you can see on my sound control panel: I’ve also made sure that in the line-in properties are set so that the device usage is enabled in the general tab and that the ‘listen to this device’ is ticked, ‘playback through this device’ is set to my headphones in the listen tab and that levels are set to 70 volume in the levels tab. It’s strange because If I plug a simple 3.5mm audio cable from an Xbox One wireless controller to my PC’s blue in-line port I’m able to hear the Xbox sound with no problems, however this setup is messy and I get tangled wires. But using a optical toslink with a 3.5mm adaptor cable directly from the Xbox One X console doesn’t seem to work. Does anyone have any idea why this might be the case?

Excellent, that's even better than I wanted. Thanks for testing this out. I did actually have a look at the keyboard you have in the Large (L) version but it seems that the MK750 is newer as it has USB type C and raised key switches, amoungst other features.

I’m thinking of getting either the Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 or the Cooler master MasterKeys MK750. I’ve filtered about 20 keyboards down to come to these two for a number of other reasons. However I’m very fussy about software to setup macros and other advanced settings. What I want is software I can install once, set up my macros and settings then uninstall the software and have my settings saved on the keyboards onboard memory forever. I refuse to have software running at all times or have a cloud sync feature. The Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 has 8MB of on board storage and the Cooler master MasterKeys MK750 has 512KB which is a lot less. The question is can both of these keyboards have it so that when I install the software I can set all my macros and settings once, then uninstall the software forever and have the saved settings on the keyboards on board storage? I think the Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 can as it states the number of on board profiles available is 3, but I’m not sure if this is the case, and for the Cooler master MasterKeys MK750 I have no idea. (i am aware that the MK750 can change colours without software with the function keys, but not macros as far as i'm aware) If anyone owns either of these keyboards would you be able to tell me if what I’m trying to do is possible? Thanks

Yeah I think I will do a bit of research on my own motherboards soundcard, thanks for the advice regarding that. I'm very new to audio and it's quite daunting with all this equipment. I suppose i can always buy external equipment if it turns out i actually need it.

Oh that was my mistake, the headphones are the Senhesier HD 558's and the mic is the Blue yeti. The headphones have no mic at all. Sorry about that. And for if it's a problem or not; on Twitch you're unable to distinguish what my discord friends are saying but you can tell someone is speaking, so for privacy it works but it degrades the audio quality of the stream as theres a bleed / echo effect whenever one of my friends talks.

Okay that's really helpful, thanks a lot. I see a lot of Twitch streamers using mixers and audio intefaces so i wasn't sure if i needed them or not for that reason. The other reason i thought about getting a mixer or audio interface is to potentially improve audio quality, especially if i ever get some high end headphones. I read for some headphones with higher impedance I might need a more powerful DAC / amplifier, so i thought about getting one of the scarlett audio interfaces so i could have improved audio quality and a port to plug in an XLR mic.