brandon9990

Bluetooth Headsets can't run a stereo channel and microphone channel at the same time, they are limited on either bandwidth or battery so all bluetooth headsets come with a "feature" called hands free AG audio, it essentially turns your killer, sick headphones into something straight from the 1920's with microphone enabled. There is no workaround despite my best efforts of searching, Bluetooth works great for phones because your in a call or your listening to music but for PC they suck. If you open up a game with in game voice chat the headphones will switch to hands free so you get either no audio or scrambled garbage. I think bluetooth headphones are great but honestly if you're looking for a PC gaming set then you will a separate Microphone, You can disable the Hands free "feature" on your bluetooths device services but doing so will disable the microphone which i would recommend so you can play any game that have voice chat otherwise your playing games with no audio at all I Recommend getting Sennheisers Urbanite XL wireless headphones and setting the the hands free telephony off and then getting a seperate microphone or webcam and microphone so you have the full array of gaming/microphone and webcam,

Nevermind me, I just got my replacement and it works fine, I just got a bad unit. False alarm Logitech is good

I have set the mouse to be returned through amazons return policy, I should get my new mouse tomorrow and then return this one when I can and I'll let you know if the issue improves, like no joke this mouse Is unusable, I took my mat off my desk because that seemed to help but it still just wasn't working right, maybe it's just a dim light in the mouse stopping it from working properly I'll update this forum post

I would love to be able to do that but their's no way I could swap the sensors over but I have never touched soldering so I would %1000 kill the mice if I tried that

That's what I'm confused, my old mouse worked fine with my mat which is a soft mat and my new mouse is barely useable on it even though it's the same mouse, it should have the same sensor, I don't want to get rid of my mat because I like the friction it gives when playing games. although the sensor works fine on my bare desk i find that surface too slippery

I set it to 500, changing the rate does nothing, however, I just noticed if I switch from my mouse mat to a hard surface the mouse works fine, for some reason it doesn't like the mouse mat I'm using despite having no issue with my last mouse, I'm using the razor goliathus extended control

Okay so I've had the G602 mouse pretty much since launch for 4 years, I considered it to be the best mouse for money and performance. I'm not a pro-Esports gamer so I don't notice the minor differences in delay using a wireless product and since all of my mice prior broke due to a tear inside the cable, Swapping over to a wireless mouse seemed like a good idea to stop the expensive annual replacement of a dead mouse. It worked wonders and lasted for 4 years so when it finally caved in to wear and tear and the scroll wheel stopped working I looked back at all the fun times I had with the mouse and decided to buy another thinking it would be just as good as the last one. Well here's where the story turns ships I paid a bit more then RRp on Amazon so that I could get next day shipping which cost me £72. I fell ill so after a couple of days in bed, I finally could get around to trying out my new old mouse. Now obviously after 4 years, they are going to change certain things about the production, it's the same mouse but not the exact same. It arrived and it was nice to have a fresh feeling mouse in my hand but then I plugged it in and Mother of holy mouse acceleration. Think of the worst game ever for mouse acceleration, then apply that to everything on your computer. after fiddling around the settings I disabled the acceleration in the Logitech config app. This helped a bit but I still have the same issue. Everything is accelerated I plugged my old mouse back in since the only issue I had with it was a broken scroll wheel which you need to game and the mouse worked fine. Instantly I could easily control where I wanted to point and click. I checked the firmware on both devices and they were running the same up to date firmware. I checked the windows setting and acceleration was disabled, I have no idea why my new mouse is behaving like it is. It's the same product so why. The only reason I can come up with in my head is that the product has been deliberately tampered with to make you go out and buy a newer released product. I'm not even joking this mouse is near enough unplayable and I would still be using my old one if the scroll hadn't broken. to be clear I'm not saying the broken scroll wheel is the part that is obsolete, I'm saying the latest revision of the mouse has just killed its usefulness. I'm sure my old mouse died through poor ownership, I probably got my finger wet then scrolled the liquid into the sensor killing it. I've already pulled it apart to clean the sensor and that didn't fix it. What's the point of this post, well I just want clarification to determine if I just got a faulty mouse or if someone else has had something similar happen to one of their Logitech products After looking back at the footage I think it's just a really bad optical sensor and not acceleration but still take a look at how it jumps around the screen, I really can't be asked to rewrite all of this because I'm still sick but the point stand I think this is deliberate obsolescence. Mouse.mp4

I have finished upgrading and I am so happy I did, whilst I was at it i cable managed the interior but unfortunately my case wasn't really designed for any good cable management so the back side panel sticks out and with my new CPU air cooler I couldn't fit my side panel case fans inside so they are now outside the case, but I can run my CPU with a 400mhz overclock from the turbo. next upgrade I definitely can't wait to upgrade to an M.2 for launch programs and OS

I live in the UK and on Amazon the 8700K is worth 280, the price is quickly going up but here's where i got it from 8700K: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-BX80684I78700K-Core-i7-8700K-Processor/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1523776728&sr=1-1&keywords=i7+8700k At time £287.10 free delivery Mobo: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0775JBB87/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 at time £87.67 free delivery 4790K: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-4790K-Haswell-Refresh-Processor/dp/B00KPRWAX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523776835&sr=8-1&keywords=4790k at time £352.63 + 10.07 Delivery

I was just about to put a post here about what I did. I got the 8700K for 270 and the mobo for 80 so I spent 350 on that which is about the same as the 4790k alone but I also had to buy new ram since 1600Mhz Isn't compatible with the 300 series chips so went ahead and got 4x8GB hyper x fury at 2400Mhz and that cost me 280*which is more than the CPU* and a cryorig cooler for the new CPU/socket and of course Noctua thermal compound and IPA99, so in the end I spent £715 on hardware, I suppose the original question was is it worth the hassle of replacing the motherboard and cpu or would the 4790K be enough of a differance to be worth the price and in the end the who can say no to a higher clock speed with two extra cores, bloody ram prices though

all I can say at this point is that you probably have either a dead motherboard or a dead CPU, without a spare computer to test your ram and CPU theirs not much I can say you too. the only other thing is to flash your bios but I would have thought that if it was an incompatibility with the bios version and the hardware you would have received an error message unless the bios are corrupt the motherboard is probably dead. you can cheap out on ram since it is cheap and easy to replace and to an extent you can cheap out on motherboards, from what I can tell looking at reviews of your motherboard they are shoddy, poorly constructed and likely to break, motherboards aren't that expensive, to begin with and you CPU socket type is common enough that I might suggest you look around for cheap throwaway computers to buy secondhand or better yet buy a secondhand or new motherboard from a reputable source like gigabyte something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-970A-DS3P-Motherboard-Socket-Express/dp/B00F5R9O46/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1523569980&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=gigabyte%2Bmotherboard%2Blga%2B1156&th=1

what is your motherboards model no.

the motherboard should know if there is ram plugged into the slot and try to post. if the ram is dead usually you get an error message but sometimes you just won't, if the slot is dead then you wont get an error message

it could be that one or more of your ram slots are dead on the motherboard, plug in one of your ram sticks and try turning it on, if it doesn't boot then move to the next slot, if all the slots aren't working then try the other stick of ram

so the motherboard boots (fan spins) but nothing is displayed and no error messages