Isaki

The problem is that over time the idle temp will climb to around 50 degrees, which is way higher than I would like. It also seems that it's not just iCue, having any slightly intensive program open causes the CPU clock speed to lock at max.

After looking into it more, I'm almost certain that iCue is causing the issue. It seems that iCue has issues with high resource usage, especially with the RGB ram.

Looking at task manager the CPU utilization is only around 10%, with the highest usage being iCue at ~3%. When I closed that the clock speed dropped down to between 1.9 and 4.8Ghz Which is much more reasonable. I guess it must be making the CPU run at 100% despite having low usage.

HWMonitor says that the voltage is 1.393v. I would like to leave it at 5.3Ghz or similar, but I thought that when there were few programs running the CPU was meant to downclock to avoid using power / lower temps, which is what my old CPU did.

Today I upgraded from my old i5 4690k to a new i7 9700k with an Asus Maximus XI Hero motherboard. I've enabled the AI to overclock in the bios settings which put the max frequency 5.3Ghz on all cores. The problem is that my CPU will now only run at 5.3Ghz. I tried turning off the AI overclock, but it still runs at max clock speeds (4.8Gghz). I've already checked that the power plan in windows has the minimum processor state at 5%, and from looking at the graphs on MSI afterburner, I can see that it drops to ~800Mhz but only very very briefly before jumping back to the highest clock speed. My old CPU would usually idle between 800Mhz and 1.8Ghz, so I'm not sure if this is a problem or if the newer Intel CPUs just idle high. It's not too big of an issue as my idle temperature at 5.3Ghz is ~45 degrees, but i would like to have it drop to lower speeds when not heavily in use. Does anyone know what could be causing it to idle so high? Thanks

Earlier today I decided to dust out my PC. I unplugged everything, moved it outside and cleaned it out using compressed air. However, when I plugged it back in I found it won't boot properly. When I press the power button, all the lights inside the PC and all the fans turn on like normal, and after around 30 seconds they all turn off, before turning back on again permanently. During this time nothing at all comes up on my monitors, and they don't receive any input. My mouse LEDs remain off however my keyboard will light up at all times now, including when the PC is off, which didn't happen before. Sadly my motherboard has no buzzer or speaker, so I have no idea what could be causing the boot to fail. Any help would be appreciated, thanks

No, it doesn't show up in disk management when it doesn't show up in explorer and i've never seen it show up in BIOS

Hi, Ever since the last big windows update (I think it was the fall creators update?) when I power on my PC one of my two hard drives won't show up in windows. However, simply restarting is enough to have it show up again and usaully after the first restart, the drive will continue to show up until the next day, My question is, is this some sort of windows issue? or a sign that my hard drive is dying? Thanks

Hi, Over the past 3 days, I have been having serious problems with my PC. It first happened in the BF2 beta, when my monitors both randomly lost signal, my PC continued to work (I could still talk and hear discord and CUE still worked) but the monitors wouldn't come back. At first, I ignored this and blamed it on the beta has some bug. That was before it happened another 3 times today. I'm fairly sure that this isn't a problem with the drivers as I updated them earlier today (after the first crash) and it seemed to have no impact. I believe that either my PSU (that has been having some issues for a while now, including the fan clicking and really loud coil whine) or my GPU (that has never had an issue before this) has died/is dying. I've had both parts, a Corsair cx600m and an MSI GTX970 for around 3 years without issue. What I would like to know is if there is a way that I can figure out if this problem is A) Software or Hardware, and B) What component is causing it. Thanks Edit: Further info, my PC and monitors are both running off of an extension lead, but this hasn't caused problems at all in the past year.

For some time now my PC had been making a clicking noise as if something was clipping a fan. I couldn't see anything in any of my case fans, so I assumed that one of my case fans was loose on its bearing. It wasn't until this week that I discovered that the noise was coming from my PSU. At first, I assumed that it was something caught in my PSU fan, so I cleaned it out with compressed air and searched around inside with a flashlight to see if there were any obstructions, there were none. After putting everything back the noise was gone, for about an hour before starting up again.The noise goes away if I tilt my PC sideways and takes some time after booting to start up. I removed my PSU from the case and ran it to see if I could see any issues with the fan but there was no issue visible. Sometimes the noise goes away for seemingly no reason but it always comes back. The clicking is loud enough to get through my headphones and is starting to drive me insane, so any help is appreciated Thanks Edit: Should mention I have a corsair cx600m

Do you think I would need it though?

I've been looking at upgrading my audio on my PC. After spending a long time choosing a pair of headphones(Mainly between the dt880s and the dt990s) I have settled on the Beyerdynamic DT990s Premiums 250ohms. My question is whether or not I would need an AMP to drive the headphones. I assume that for my iPhone I will need an AMP, but what about for my PC? I have an MSI Gaming 3 motherboard with 'Audio Boost 2' but I assume that this wouldn't be enough. Do I need to buy a soundcard or external AMP to power the headphones or would my motherboard alone be enough? Thanks

Thanks

To extend the wifi connectivity in my house I have been using a TP Link Archer C2 as an access point connected to my BT router. It works fine, but there is no way that I can access the Archer C2's control page without resting the device. During set-up I gave it the static IP 192.168.0.1 and 192.168.1.1 however none of these will take me to the settings page. Is there a way I can access the settings menu without having to reset the device? thanks Edit: Using MyLanViewer I was able to see that it is there and the IPV6 Address but apparently it has no IPV4 adress Is there anyway to connect with the IPV6?

That's what CPU Z says. I cant see 1600 or 1866