kevsea

Thanks! I'm just pretty resistant to change, so if I end up breaking this one sometime down the road, I'll likely end up buying another as long as they're still in production. I'm fine with 1000hz.

I'm bored and I can't sleep... I guess I'll write about a few of the changes (improvements?) corsair made to this mouse that aren't pointed out on corsair's website, nor on other sites. Note: I wear a size 9 (large) glove where I work, and primarily use a claw-style grip with my mouse. My hands aren't huge, but definitely not small. The original m65 fit my hand wonderfully, aside from the fact that the sniper button was positioned poorly. With my hand in the ideal position to press the side-mounted front and back buttons, pressing the sniper button was awkward, and the only way to use it in gameplay without adjusting my hand necessitated pressing the rearmost edge of it (I blame this for the button becoming mushy on one side over time). In a position that made the sniper button comfortable to press, hitting the two additional side buttons became awkward- one of which requiring my thumb to be bent sharply rearward. Not quick and certainly not comfortable. The new mouse seems to address that issue well, as it positions the sniper button further back in order to keep all of the buttons on the left side easily accessible. Aside from this, it seems as though the two models are identical dimension-wise. As far as button functionality goes, the DPI selector buttons positioned behind the scroll wheel allow 5 dpi settings to be stored to the device, as opposed to 3 on the original. The selection indicator on the original featured 3 blue led 'bars' that lit up depending on whether you had setting 1, 2, or 3 selected- simple and easy. The new RGB model uses a single color-coded LED to indicate your selection, which I found to be less than ideal. By default, all 5 settings are assigned sharply contrasting colors- which makes it easy to tell which setting you're using at a glance (if you can remember which ones are higher, medium, and lower), but if you're going for a color coded theme, they become a bit of an eyesore. That is, if you notice them at all in the first place. The colors can all be changed via the updated corsair utility engine software- completely different software than what is used for the original m65. As far as RGB functionality, I mean... It's there. You can set all kinds of fading and gradient effects. Like on the original m65, the LED surrounding the scroll wheel is barely noticeable. You pretty much have to be looking directly at it in a dark room with the monitor off to notice it. The RGB LED on the rear of the mouse is much more noticeable... when you aren't using the mouse. The only problem I've had with the new mouse is solely RGB related. Storing chosen colors and effects worked well, as did storing my different DPI profiles. The problem is that occasionally after a restart or after waking up from sleep mode, the LEDs will not function even with the software already running in the background. Going into the software and turning the LEDs on and off does nothing. DPI settings work, just no LEDs. This is easily remedied by removing the usb cable and reinserting it. attached: images comparing the two models side-by-side. Happy gaming! -kevsea

I'm thinking I need to better understand just what can be done with the 2600S before I make any decisions. Base clock is 2.8 GHz with a turbo boost up to 3.8 GHz according to intel. Haven't messed with it at all yet. Wasn't this just the more energy efficient i7 at the time?

I need opinions! So the other day I collected all the components I'm no longer using, and realized I'm only a motherboard and case away from having another complete pc built. Now I'm curious as to what I should do with it. So here's what I've got: i7 2600S (came out of an old HP) corsair GS700 PSU corsair RM850 PSU 2x 4GB samsung DDR3 'planet first' 1333MHz ram two intel stock coolers, one is from the 2600s and another came with a 4770k seagate 1tb 7200rpm hdd hitachi 1tb 7200rpm hdd evga gtx 780 sc w/ the crappy acx cooler on it. evga gtx 550 ti assorted junk fans that still work. Home theater build mayyybeeeee? Considering dual booting linux for fun as well, though I haven't messed with that since I was in middle school.

Thanks for the quick reply! I was going to say, I'd never heard of such a thing until I read it this afternoon. I suppose its first real test will be tomorrow if I find the time to connect my mobo and gpus.

Long time subscriber here, new to the forum! I did a few google searches as well as searched the forum- and either I'm getting rusty with my forum-searching abilities, or this really isn't a common topic. I've decided to rebuild my current rig in a new case (enthoo primo, as I plan on using dual 480 rads). With the new case I ordered an EVGA 1300 G2 PSU so that I can hopefully avoid ever needing anything bigger in this build after the few costly water cooling upgrades I have planned. The power supply came today and the case hasn't yet arrived, so I decided this afternoon that I would jump it just for fun to make sure it powered on and that I hadn't received a DOA unit. Fan kicked on and everything seemed to be a-ok, but later in the day I came across a post online that claimed jumping a power supply with nothing connected could cause it to overheat and damage the internals. Does anyone have any input on the matter? I know some sources (including seasonic) say to disconnect everything prior to testing the first time. Thanks in advance.