Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards


About atoff

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    So Cal
  • Interests
    Guitar, gaming, movies, intelligent conversation
  1. Thanks for the advice, it looks like a good choice. I was also looking at the cryorig h5 ultimate or universal. I like the price a lot better, but it's pretty beastly like the D15, so I'd have to see if it fits. I have a Enthoo Luxe which is fairly wide, but I'm not sure about my ram and Asus Sabertooth X99, since it has that shroud. And yeah, I really like Noctua fans too. So expensive though. I have 6 of them (140mm) on my radiators, and another 4 that I haven't opened, so I should be able to do a push pull no problem with those.
  2. I was going to go the for the Hyper 212 EVO (budget route), but after looking at noise differences I may just pony up for the Noctua NH-D15. Noise is important to me, which is part of why I went water cooling in the first place, but considering I have 6 fans for the radiators alone, I don't see how much different it would be.
  3. Yeah, I feel you. Insane how much all this stuff depreciates. I couldn't get a quarter of what I paid for these parts and they're pretty much pristine, aside from the res of course.
  4. Hi everyone, so, I have a custom loop with an XSPC CPU block, EKWB block for my 980ti, an XSPC Photon reservoir/pump combo, two large XSPC radiators with 3 noctua fans each, PETG rigid tubing, and uh, I think that's about it. Problem is my reservoir's been leaking, and after draining, undoing everything and reassembling it all it started back up again. I don't actually see it leaking, but I'll come back to it and there will be a puddle under the res. I can tell it's coming from the res because I have UV reactive coolant that's showing a ring just above it one of the rings. I'm not sure it's the o-ring, because this is above the part that unscrews. It's a section that doesn't appear to unscrew. I contacted XSPC a couple of months ago, but they wanted videos, and I was never able to catch it while it leaked. Anyway, aside from the leak I'll probably be upgrading my graphics card next year, and since I don't plan on overclocking I don't really like the idea of having to spend another $100+ on a new block for it. Then there's the fact that my tubing has always been in the way of some bays that I could be putting to use, and that it's ridiculously heavy. I feel bad having spent so much on this setup (many hundreds), but I feel like it would just be easier to undo all this and go back to air. My question for you guys is, how much will I regret it in terms of noise (it's really quiet right now), and in terms of performance if I only overclock my CPU (5930k) from 3.5 to 4GHz, and keep the GPU stock. To be honest, the only thing I like about watercooling is how it looks. Edit: I should mention I had it running for a year or so before it ever started leaking. I made no changes, and hadn't moved or otherwise touched my PC.
  5. Well, I've pretty much finished my loop. I ended up using fittings for the 2 really short runs. It was impossible to get perfect 90 deg bends so close to each other. I've also filled it with Mayhems Clear UV Blue. I don't have have UV lights set up yet, but I've been playing with a little UV LED to check for leaks. Here are some pics. Oh, forgot to mention. I'm waiting on EVGA to approve my step-up to the 980ti, which is why the second card isn't connected to the loop. I didn't want to waste money on cooling it, and I'm sure it would have no longer been eligible if I had.
  6. Ended up going with fittings for the difficult short runs. It would have been impossible to get those bends so close. I'm just waiting on some more parts for the other one going to the CPU. A couple of telescoping fittings + 45deg and 90deg elbows should take care of it.
  7. They are a bit yeah, but definitely worth it. I think 0.6 inches is what we all use on our Rostocks. It's listed as $30, but I think I paid like $20, I believe from McMaster.
  8. Thanks. PEI is really nice stuff. These are the sheets http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY, you basically use some very strong heat resistant adhesive to semi-permanently attach it to a glass plate. Both PLA and ABS stick really well, no glue / tape needed. Check out this thread for more info http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=4336. I've been using it for about a year. Once in a while I'll wipe it with alcohol, but other than that, no maintenance. Absolutely. I've ordered some fittings just now to try and get it to work. There's no way of doing it with rigid tubing, it's just way too close together.
  9. man, you don't know how let down I am right now. I thought I was nearly finished. My back is just destroyed today from all the work I did on it. Then, when I unscrewed the primochill fittings to check the card, I scratched the crap out of my PETG. So basically all of my work has been for nothing. But thanks for the info, and Skyress for pointing it out. Better now then after I fill it.
  10. Oh, yeah, the heated bed is a must, and I think the fact that the bed moved was one of the things that had me shy away from it myself. Delta's are really nice machines, and the rostock produces some nice prints, but the downside is having to calibrate and compensate for the circular bed. I want something smaller and enclosed. Maybe something like the Flashforge Pro. Also, if you do pick up a heated bed for it, try some PEI attached to the glass, or on its own, if the sheet is thick enough. Works really well as a surface. No more prepping with glue or tape, and no more cleanup.
  11. I really really hope not. The manual says that you can use any port for the inlet / outlet (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109869253.pdf). Is it wrong? I have the Rostock Max V2. I've actually been considering the simple metal because of its manageable size. But I think I might sell off the rostock and buy something that's enclosed. How are you liking the printrbot?
  12. Thanks. Yeah, it had been collecting dust for about a year now, it's nice to have it out of retirement. I'd probably use it more if the fumes didn't irritate me so much. They're mostly harmless, but they stuff me up pretty badly.
  13. Another tube in... took another day.
  14. Basically, yeah. For me, it was really less of a hassle then trying over and over to get those tight angles right. They're so close together that it just kept failing for various reasons. I ended up wasting nearly an entire tube trying to get it right. It also saved my back A LOT from hunching over the case. It's my first time building a loop, rigid or otherwise.
  15. So, I've been trying for a while now to get my loop set up. Ran into a lot of problems, but today I made some progress so thought I'd share. I'd say my loop is really simple, except for the fact that the res/pump combo is jammed up so close to the GPU and CPU that getting those bends in the tubing just right became a bitch. First thing I did was 3D printed mandrels / jigs similar to Monsoon's. For now just 90 and 45 degrees. Using those alone I couldn't get the tight bends needed for the Res to GPU, so I gave up a little, and posted asking if anyone local would help me out for a fee. Really the main obstacle is my back. I have severe back pain, such that I can't stand up for more than several minutes at a time. Well, since I couldn't find anyone in my area, I decided to think about what I could do differently. So, I decided since the run from Res to GPU is so short, I'll just create a mandrel in the exact shape. I measured as precisely as I could the distances in all 3 dimensions, and modeled this mold: 6 1/2 hours later, my printer created this (took the pic after sanding and using it, so it looks a little abused. ) And finally, a bit of success: The only problem is that I can't tell if it's pushing down on the GPU. I actually thought I had sanded the tubing too much and that it would be short, but it's really solid, and looking at it, there may be some pressure being put on the card, so I MIGHT try to sand it down further. Not sure I should mess with it, when it was such a mess trying to get it right. Anyway, next step is Res to CPU. That too has a really tight switch from horizontal to vertical, so I might just create another mold for just that transition. Thanks for looking. If you have any advice, input, etc, would love to hear it.