Mortis Angelus

I did not know that. Thank you for the tip! And thanks for your input. I am running an old B350 board, but I presume it will have that option too with a BIOS update. Do you have any suggestion for a good AM4 upgrade? I currently have the 1500x, thinking of going up to the 4500x instead, and also upgrading from the msi 1050ti low profile to the RTX A2000 (essentially a 3050?) with blower style cooler for the same reason.

Hello, I have a custom SFF-build where I currently run an Noctua NH-L9a. But the case is very small, with very limited intake and exhaust capabilities. So I've been looking for a new solution for this. Then I found this cooler from Akasa: https://www.akasa.co.uk/search.php?seed=AK-CC1109BP01 This would be very good for my build as it would exhaust the air out instead of into the case. Does anyone here have any experience with this cooler? Is it any good? Should I avoid it? Do you have any alternative suggestions? It says it should handle up to 75W of thermal output, so beefier than the Noctua with 65W. I plan on running an AM4 65W chip with it (annoyingly all 35W AM4 chips are all OEM-chips). Cheers and Happy New Year!

I could leave them, but they are in the root directory of that drive, which makes it impossible to not see whenever I need to access it. And I cant find similar files anywhere else. And what's with the install-dates? As mentioned, I formatted these drives 3 weeks ago

Hello! First of all, not sure I post this in the correct subforum, so please move it if necessary. I have 3 main drives in my system. My C-drive and two "games" drives where I have my steam, epic, EA-libraries etc. All of the sudden today, I found the Games 1-drive filled with a bunch of random files (see below). A quick googling SUGGESTS that these are created by mistake by Windows and should end up in temp folder or in appdata folder, not on a random drive, but can sometimes do so. So based on that, it sounds like it should be fine to delete. But then again, I don't trust suggestions from random forums. Thus I'm here to get a second, third and fourth opinion. I have just done a fresh-install of my system, so I would hate to screw something up by deleting these files. EDIT: Also rather interesting that the dates of "Date modified" doe snot correlate to any recent dates, except those of my Steam and dropbox folders (for obvious reasons). How is this possible? These are drives that were wiped clean 3 weeks ago. Thank you for your help!

Hello I know nothing about budget projectors, and I am trying to find a budget option for my friends. Their new livingroom layout is really anti-tv screen; really no good place to mount or place a TV. They also dont want the typical "black square on a wall" look and feeling that a TV creates. They are not videophiles either. They just want something to plug their chromecast into and enjoy the occasional stuff. Plan is to use one of the available white walls and project a ca 40-50" image. Needs to be ceiling mounted. But I have a hard time finding any reviews or guides for budget options. The ones I find on youtube are either in the $100-$200 range wich is just crap, or it jumps up to $800+. And they are not very good videos. Big channels like LTT and similar all focus on the $1500+ projectors. So is there something that fulfills these requirements: - max 400 eur (second hand prices included; so an older model is welcome) - 1080p - ceiling mountable - bright enough for windowed room and being projected on a wall, not a proper projector canvas

I want to chip in here, that despite me really disliking Apple - which is mostly for how they treat their customers, design their software and lock-you-in ecosystem - I really like their hardware. When it comes to pure hardware quality and finish, Apple are hard to beat. The annoying thing with apple devices is that any lacking features or compromises in then are intentionally left out to create a need for an extra gadget or dongle, which they then charge ridiculous amounts of money for. Latest macbook pro and it's onboard ssd is good example. There was no need to downgrade it from a space concern. It's just a way to sneakily increase their profit margin by adding a slightly cheaper ssd. And the same was true about the usb-c only designs. Now all of the sudden they can have sd card readers and hdmi ports. Other brands are far from perfect too, but usually are not as expensive and usually are easier to adjust and modify to your own liking. But eg Dell was (and to some extent still is) just copying whatever apple is doing, instead of trying to improve on what apple messes up. Perfect laptop for me would be an M2 device with the adjustability of linux and compatibility of windows and the hardware-software optimization of OSX

According to this source (in Swedish, but you can translate it) a basic repair kit for opening the phone comes in the box with the phone. Furthermore, most people who are savvy/interested enough to repair their own phones usually tend to own an ifixit kit or something similar.

Nokia launched its new G22, a phone with focus on being more eco-friendly and presumably easy to fix yourself, by making it easy to open up and access internal components. I dont know much more than that, but thought it would be a fun thing to mention here and hopefully Linus is gonna make a video about this phone too. If you know more, just post more info in the thread. https://www.nokia.com/phones/en_ie/nokia-g-22?sku=101S0609H002

1) In a perfect world they should; but the issue at hand was regardless about my private account - sure I should not have used a personal account from the beginning, but hey, that was 6 years ago now, and this is the first incident. And consider the efficiency of our IT-department, dealing with something like this would take weeks (yes, it is extremely under-staffed). 2) the main issue here is still, imho, that it is overly complicated to deal with an issue so mundane like this, no matter if it is a business or private account. The weird argument about "it's your fault for not buying into Apple's ecosystem" was really a low-mark of an argument. If I have any other account, I can go on any other device, log in, add my security details; hopefully with some 2-step authentication (which I have nowadays on all important accounts - even the apple account). The difference was that apple requires an apple-device for said 2-step authentication, opposed to every other system. 3) Might be worth it to note that I work in academia; so "company" is a university, and anyone who has worked at a university would know how bad anything computer tech and IT usually is in such a workplace compared to big million/billion dollar companies.

So things sorted out; I remembered wrong (luckily in this case) and have no saved credit card number on the account. But now it is all fixed. And yes, the mail I had gotten was thus a fake, as suspected. And as irony has it, of course I managed to find my password out, when I was trying to make a new one.... Hahaa

Work provides you with the hardware. Not the account (yeah, it's stupid), and my account was actually carried over from my previous work, so it is a personal account. And since I have done one purchase for one software I needed, and since you cant register an account with apple without providing a credit card number, that is what worries me. Regardless if it is a personal account or not, the general policy from any company or website is "if this log in was not by you, reset your password immediately" or something similar. But that was apparently not true here, unless you have an apple device. Like Zando_ says below, I only get the option to do this via their customer support, which will be a much longer process. Since they already have 2-step authentication process, just send me a security message to my SMS number amd then let me log in... But no.. Will deal with this today at work, but I just had to ventilate, because this just annoyed the shit out of me.

I got a suspicious receipt from "presumably app store". I wanted to log in from home to double check if I've been hacked or something. The only reason I have apple-account is because I have macbook at work. But I so seldom need to log in to appstore, so I need to reset my password to get in (and if it's been hacked, they have probably changed that. But at home I don't own a single apple device. So apparently changing passwords can't be done from a non-apple device... Like what the actual duck????? What if you are on vacation and just need to do something similar and check/change something? How is this even okay? How is this providing more security? And before anyone asks; work provides us with Macbooks, Didn't get an option for Windows even... Screenshots are in Swedish, but essentially, the first image tells me (after verifying my phone number) to open up account passowrd reset on my mac. If that is not an option, I have to choose ANOTHER APPLE DEVICE....

When opening this tabletop microcenteifuge today, it really felt like I opened something from LTT. Perhaps it's time to start collaborating with Corning? It is bigger, faster and more silent than the old one (blue), so just what I would expect from an LTT product.

Actually the CX was less bright than the C9, which is why it was kinda funny that when the first EVO panels came, they were essentially the C9-panels with some more safeguards. The C2 should be brighter than the C1, which was as bright as the C9. Or am I misinformed here? Nevertheless, this thread is getting really off-topic, isn't it? This was just to discuss news and potential rumors and potential development pipeline for what we can expect. Not a "is OLED good or bad"-thread. Plenty of those threads already. I respect your criticisms towards OLED, and they are legit (even if I think you are overly cautious), others might find the benefit of the technology. It is just that after I got my C9, both my PC monitors look so terrible by comparison; even my photo-grade panel (which albeit is from 2011). Best compromise would probably be a miniled screen, but they don't come in any smaller size than 32" still, and they are somehow more costly than OLED. The dream is MicroLED, but those are faaaaar from being accessible for normal consumers in a 27"- 32" format, even less for a sensible price. Thus QD-OLED (or regular OLED too) is more appealing for that (imho) perfect experience

I never said it wasn't valid. But this thread is about the availability of QD-OLED and future iterations. Issues with specifically the Alienware is not the topic here. And that was why I specifically said that 4/5 issues mentioned in that video is specific to that model, not due to QD-OLED panels itself. In my very first (or was it second) post I also mention that my interest is to know if I can even expect a 27" 1440p/4K monitor with this technology, as I dont have space or interest in curved or UW monitors. That all (hopefully) cleared up, has thete become any more support for that sub-pixel issue or is text still jittery without the adjustments you mentioned you have made?

Ouch, that was (relatively) bad news for the Alienware owners. But other than the sub-pixel layout, all the issues mentioned is really down to Alienware/monitor manufacturer. Not the panel itself. But that info about the sub-pixel layout was troubling to learn about. But that said, I doubt it will take long for other technologies to catch up in order to accomodate for that issue. Otherwise Samsung Display is fudged.

You do realize the entire topic was about QD-OLED? Not regular OLED. And I woulndt call 1300 dollars particularily expensive for a 34" UW. There are more expensive IPS gaming monitors out there. Remember when the ASUS 35" UW released a few years back? That was a 2000 dollar VA panel. So of all the arguments you have presented that one is the least relevant really. I, including a lot of people, expected the alienware to be at least 1000 dollars more expensive. You argument to Stahlman about OLED would somehow not work specifically for windows users I also dont buy. It's the same target demographic for bot windows and mac. People who care about color accuracy. Gaming is secondary really. If gamers start buying OLED without really caring for picture quality that's their loss (and win). As for taskbar; mac also displays a constant taskbar in the upper part of the screen that only goes away in full screen mode. For windows, making the taskbar auto-hide is not difficult. And for leaving stuff on for hours at a time while not at the computer. 1) you should never do that just feom a economical and environmental pov, and 2) just shut off the screen or have a screen saver. Again, nothing of this is anything difficult. Or even inconvenient. The risk of burn in in other applications is a risk yes (from menus and huds), but as has been shown by rtings even with now 3 generations old OLED, that is difficult to achieve. ABL is annoying. But that is something they are constantly working on. And something (again) QD-OLED seem to suffer less from due to its higher brightness tolerances. whenever I use my TV for desktop use, I have never really experienced ABL unless I open up google or word document in fullscreen. And that is both so specific, occasional and really easy to avoid when learning about it. But I have never noticed ot when gaming or watching movies. Ice hockey is a problem for ABL though... But all in all, while are your arguments are good and legit, I also think you make it more troublesome than it really is. Normal OLED is not bright enough, agreed, but the whole topic is about QD-OLED.

I don't know what you base the potentiall disappointment part on? Apart from HDR-performance and the high price (for regular OLED) there is usually nothing but praise from normal PC-users. Which is why LG's C1 and C2 42" models are so sought after to be used as monitors. LG also announced an jOLED for professional color critical work. As you said, the whole point of QD-OLED is also to mitigate the whole burn-in aspect and providing higher general brightness (not only increased peak brightness). For SDR in a normal room, I don't see why you'd ever would need to go above 400 nits anyways. My screens are set to 130 nits (ca 51 - 53 % brightness on my IPS screen, 74 % on my C9 OLED). And even HDR would benefit of QD-OLED, as that is the only part I really don't like with my LG C9.

The issue is iOS/Android sandboxing due to how OS system security is done. According to this guy, you can't. I was hoping to learn from here if someone knows how to bypass this sandboxing issue and get a complete color profile change. If even possible. And if this guy is to be believed, the best thing seem to be just to get an iPad for color-critical work. But I really, really don't want to buy an apple device.... I had hoped to just get a second hand Galaxy Tab S7 FE...

That is a false tag manufacturers add there. To be able to adjust presets for temperature and color profiles is not to calibrate. Even if you have a manual color temp slider and even RGB slider, you can't calibrate unless you also have access and the possibility to connect and use a coloriometer.

FIrst of all I'm not sure this question should be in Displays, Peripherals or in this section. Just move to whatever section is correct. I own an X-Rite ColorMunki which I use to calibrate my PC monitors and TV. While I am quite okay with the colors of my phone, I do notice a slight shift in colors when viewing the same image on my phone vs my other screens. As I edit quite a lot of in-phone photos in Lightroom Mobile it would be nice to get the screen calibrated. I also plan on getting a tablet down the line, most likely an Samsung Galaxy Tab S7 (a variant of it), and Samsung is notorious for sacrificing color accuracy for over-saturated and popping colors to increase the wow-factor. So there I would definitely wanna calibrate it. But as far as I have managed to google, there seems like there used to exist software to use for calibration, but now they have all been removed as Android has become more and more locked down. Is this true? Is it impossible to properly calibrate the mobile screens? Would I be better off buying an iPad Pro for accurate color work? Does iPads allow proper color calibration? Grateful for replies! Thank you!

Yeah, I know it takes time to get the manufacturing process going. But since they cut them out from these big "cakes" or whatever they are called, wouldnt it be easier to cut out smaller pieces? Or is it because it is more difficult to produce "pixels" (i.e. OLEDs) small enough to produce a 27" panel? But if that is the case, why can they then oroduce OLED smartphone screens with a ridiculous ppi? Even jOLED makes either smartphone screens or min 27" OLED (yet to be released I think?) I ask cus I just wanna learn to understand this. But as mentioned; my main "concern" is the lack of seemingly any roadmap, not the lack of actual products.

It's now been 6 months since we begun seeing news coverage about the Alienware 34" curved QD-OLED panels. Since the. MSI and Samsung seem to have jumped aboard to make their variants (I am surprised it has taken Samsung this long to make one; it's their panel after all). But what I am curious about is why we still haven't seen any new announcements for other sizes or aspect ratios. Is it impossible to make panels smaller than whatever the width of a 34" ultrawide is? I really look forward to a 4K (or even 1440p) 27" model with 144+ hz refresh rate. I dont say there should be one out now, but I am surprised there is not even any announcements. No roadmap. No hype-building. At least Alienware seem to be planning on making a non-curved version, but it is still 34" ultrawide which I (and probably many other ppl) can't fit onto my desk.

Hey, and thanks for your informative post! However, as a somewhat long member of this forum, and quite experienced PC builder (4 builds; 1 which was a custom conversion of an Xbox into an ITX HTPC) I want to first make a friendly reminder (and I hope I don't come off as offensive, not my intention): Don't immediately assume that just because someone asks for sites for pre-built PC:s that they are new to the PC-building. Don't immediately go for the "Build it yourself, it's better and cheaper" as that can come off as quite elitist. (albeit I'm also #PcMasterRace #Smirk), and with today's component prices, that might not even be true. That said, what you said, and how you said it was very kind and professional! And I guess I should have written more about what my task/reason for the question is. Albeit I have noticed that longer posts usually get less replies; I just wanted a list of good stores so I could look through them myself. But here goes: Background: So I'm actually not living in Germany, but about to help my friend who live there to get a new PC. The person in question does not really have the skills or time to build their own PC. Furthermore, the current prices due to scalpers and silicone shortage very much makes it impossible to build your own PC for cheaper than buying a pre-built. My issue is that since I don't live in Germany, I don't know any of the websites where to look for PC-systems. Only PC store I've been using in Germany has been Mindfactory.de, but since they stopped shipping to my country a few years back I also stopped looking there; and they mainly sell components, not systems. Furthermore, I ask about the prices, because since the scalping started and since I managed to build my current system just before prices started to rise, I have been totally out of the loop with what is actually reasonable prices these days. Budget: My friend's budget is about 700 EUR. I'm trying to convince them to go up a bit in budget, since prices are what they are these days. Then again, their previous system was a soon 10 year old gaming laptop, so at this point anything will be better. Main uses is Gaming, productivity (does digital paintings in Photoshop), school stuff and movie watching. Options: My friend is open for either tower or laptop; whichever will be best bang for the buck. And again, as far as I know the market right now, the best bang for the buck is a desktop pre-built as OEM:s usually get components for their actual price from the manufacturers. But correct me if I'm wrong. But all I can see at the second hand component market in my own country is that I'm very happy I don't have to build a new PC at the moment. What I need: Links to good websites with decent pricing so I can browse through. Links to good second-hand online pages where one MIGHT find a good second hand deal on a complete system (albeit I kinda expect ppl to try to really mark up the prices these days). Side-question: I remember a component site I bought from at one point, but can't remember it. Was something with "Computer" and a "25" in the name, but I don't remember. Anyone have any idea for that?

Ebay is generally terrible with marked up prices. Even before the gpu and silicone shortage. Occasionally you find good deals on second hand stuff, but never on brand new stuff. I have no idea how good Amazon.de is as a pc store. I've bought the occasional components there, but never a full system. Are there no actual Germans here that could help me? I want links to various sites, as I have no idea what is available there.