Vek1313

It was a defective pump. I ordered a replacement that I just installed and right away worked. BIOS CPU temps topping out at 35C.

I have plugged the 3 pin pump connector into every possible option on the motherboard with the exception of CPU_FAN, and I have still had no luck with it actually running. My cooler is Corsair but my fans are Lian Li daisychained. So the fans are powered from CPU_FAN and then I have plugged the 3 pin into AIO_PUMP with no luck. The only thing of the AIO that is not plugged in is the connector for the fan controller which I am not using since I am using Lian Li fans and the controller that comes with their fans. I do not have a Molex or SATA adapter for the AIO pump. Where do I go in the BIOS to insure the AIO_PUMP header is enabled?

So I have installed the contact frame, applied fresh thermal paste, and tried to boot after verifying all connections again. Temps quickly climbed right back to the 88C as before and the core voltage began to drop to what I saw before. I have resolved the Q Code 98 and now am receiving the Q Code A9 (which I believe is okay and no actual issues in reference to this post: ) Everything is functioning and recognized in the BIOS. All 3 m.2s, all RAM, my GPU, all fans spinning, etc. Oddly enough, the AIO tubes were not getting hot this time like they did last time, and the radiator was not hot either but I felt the fans blowing air through it. The fans daisy chained on the radiator are plugged into CPU Fan on the mobo and the pump is in AIO cooler for reference. Is this for sure a defective AIO, or would this be a BIOS error or something like a CMOS battery even though it's a brand new board? Looking for any additional insight because I want to file a replacement as soon as possible if we can rule a defective cooler. Thanks!

Thanks! I’ve placed an order for a contact frame that should be delivered Tuesday. I’ll update then!

It was the stock one installed for Intel chipsets

What games are you playing?

Addressing both of you for more help, I’ve attached pictures what my CPU/AIO block looked like now that I’ve had time to dive back into my build. The block was definitely not making full contact with the CPU especially middle middle of the CPU. Would this be an issue of needing to adjust the included AIO backplate screw positions, or would I need to get a contact frame to assure proper contact with the CPU?

So I did try turning all fans to max. One thing I know I have to fix is the direction of the fans. I was mixed up without any labeling from Lian Li of air flow direction. But I could still feel them moving air. That didn't feel too hot. I never tried feeling the radiator because I had the top panel on still. I felt the metal side of it right after my last shut down and didn't feel heat there. Seems like a reseating would be the best thing for the temp and then narrowing down the 98 Q-code issue?

I used the backplate that came with the AIO and the proper mounting bracket was preinstalled on the pump. I made sure to go screw by screw a little at a time trying to evenly distribute the pressure as it screws in and screwed to a point that it would not turn anymore without extreme pressure. The LCD display has a red triangle error on it but I chalked that up in my head to not having the iCUE software installed (obviously) for it to have a display. The tubes themselves were hot so I *think* it would be running. Or would this be a defective pump? I can also take a picture to show what it looks like installed if that helps any? Best solution to apply new thermal paste after clearing and reseating the pump?

Hi, I just put a new build together. 13900k with an ASUS STRIX 790-E mobo. I tried powering on to setup BIOS and prepare for boot. First power on got to BIOS. All I needed to change was XMP on. CSM, TPM, SecureBoot, etc. were all properly configured for Win11 and USB boot was enabled. (Side note, BIOS sees my m.2 drives but I am not allowed to select any of them for boot order or priority.) So after saving XMP on, I saved changes and restarted. On boot then, it never got to a display and the Q-Code light signaled DRAM issue. I took out both sticks (G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6400 CL32 Memory is the kit I have) and reseated just 1 stick. I was able to get back to the BIOS like this. I disabled XMP for the time being just hoping that would help with stability. I then saved and shut off, reseated the second stick and got a boot to BIOS. Before doing so, I got a "CPU temp over limit press F1 to enter BIOS." In BIOS it says 85-88 degrees Celsius. I know 13900ks run hot and I figured to expect for higher temps in BIOS. Once I am in BIOS, the Q-Code on the mobo says 98 (on first boot was A9, but now we're consistently at 98 each time I try.) I found 98 to be an issue of unplug a keyboard or mouse but also could require reseating CPU cooler, GPU, and RAM. On the final power down I just did, I turned off the PSU and then removed the power cable. I felt the tubes for the AIO (Corsair H150i Elite LCD XT 360MM) and they were indeed very hot. I've verified all my connections. I have 10 Lian Li UNI FAN SL V2s including on the AIO for uniformity. The 3 on the AIO are daisy chained and plugged into the CPU fan header and the pump is plugged into the AIO Pump header. The rest of the fans in the case are connected to the Lian Li controller hub. Does anyone have any recommendations before I decide to just reseat the CPU cooler and needing to clean the CPU and pump applying new thermal paste? I haven't fully tested the 98 code with the keyboard and mouse yet, but I also have concerns of even turning on again with how hot the CPU is running. The keyboard and mouse are both Corsair with the mouse plugged into the extra usb on the keyboard itself, which is my theory for the error even though input from both the mouse and keyboard are recognized while in BIOS. Thanks for any help! Happy to attach any pictures if anyone thinks something specific to see can assist more I've tried to be as descriptive as possible.

Hello all, I'm planning on upgrading monitors soon (I will be buying two of these: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/yX8bt6/acer-rg321qu-pbiipx-315-2560x1440-165-hz-monitor-umjr1aap01) I'm wanting to mount them since they are VESA 100x100 compatible. The product description shows 17.76lbs on the monitor. I'm wondering what guidelines (or any recommendations) for monitor arms while I search what to buy. I want them to be sturdy obviously with how expensive the monitors are, but I don't know what price range I should be looking in that isn't junk or ripping me off from being overpriced. Just open to all input and suggestions. Thanks!

Hey all, I am going to be upgrading soon to an i9-13900k CPU. Currently, I am looking between these two mobos: Gigabyte: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE Asus: Asus ROG STRIX Z790-E GAMING I'm no expert when it comes to motherboards, and I built in what seems like a simpler time in 2018 when motherboard pricing wasn't so outrageous to cost as much as the CPU. Is there something with the power draw, efficiency, other specs that would justify the drastic price difference between these two? Or are they comparable enough that the Gigabyte board should be the easy choice off price alone?

Any specific reason you're recommending the 4070ti over the 4070 for my needs? Or was it more just because my budget can afford it? Is there not a performance benefit of the Ryzen 7 7700X, or was that to preserve me being able to use my current DDR4 RAM. Is DDR5 RAM not worth it? Partially, just because I feel like it because I am at a place where I can. But another reason is I want to upgrade my Windows 10 to Windows 11, and me whenever I built didn't know the difference of BIOS vs UEFI or that UEFI would be a requirement. MBR2GPT tool failed to convert my system. So I am already looking at replacing my boot drive and doing a fresh install. I'm not really one that likes to tear down my system and make changes (which I feel my oldest storage drives will need soon as well as potentially my PSU) aside from general dusting and air filter maintenance. Also have recently had some frame skips that I know isn't GPU hardware. I am trying to isolate testing to see if it is drive failure starting or just a recent driver update causing some minor issues. So I am in the thought process of "I'm already going to be diving in tearing it down, might as well just make a new PC to continue to last me a while." I'm aware it isn't entirely necessary for me to upgrade a majority of my system.

Budget (including currency): $2500 USD max Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Primarily gaming. I don't play anything too demanding. I do some Valorant, Minecraft, RDR2, and SW Jedi Survivor among a few others, but I think those encapsulate pretty well the demand I would need. I am however looking to transition into some more livestreaming through OBS with some occasional video editing. Monitors and Peripherals I will attach a link to my current build's part list on PCPartPicker. Some of the peripherals aren't entirely up to date as I have made some upgrades over the years, but ultimately negligible I have my peripherals in place. Monitor wise I have 2. 1 1440p 144 Hz and a secondary 1080p 60Hz. I don't see myself upgrading soon (as long as no equipment dies on me), but eventually I would be interested in a jump to 4k. I have my Windows copy too. Why are you upgrading? I don't really have any bottlenecks with my system. My 1080 runs everything I currently use just fine (so I am partially considering upgrading all except for GPU right now, as long as my 1080 wouldn't bottleneck a current gen CPU.) My build is just 5 years old now (turned 5 two weeks ago) and I was thinking of upgrading. I think my boot drive SSD is starting to fail, so that is some of my motivation looking because I need to do a rebuild of Windows soon anyway. My HDD is starting to run it's course too. Primarily what I am looking for assistance with is CPU and MOBO recommendations. I won't need a WiFi card as I have upgraded my house to a mesh network and I can wire directly in with that now. I have been out of the hardware game for about 3 years now. I still know most of what is good, but new gen CPUs have me lost, and motherboards have never been my strength either. If anyone can recommend a nice AIO CPU cooler that would be great too. I am sure the hardware hasn't changed much there. DDR5 RAM is a new concept I haven't been in touch with either. Here is my current build from May 2018: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ts2Ynt 16 GB of RAM and the 2 TB NVMe drive were purchased in 2020. Otherwise, all other internal components were there at age of build. Here is what I currently have for a partslist: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hscjtn The 4070 is there as a placeholder again as I am not entirely opposed to swapping my 1080 in for now as long as I know it won't bottleneck a new CPU. The SATA SSD is there as well just accounting for 2 NVMe slots on a motherboard at the moment, and I would swap in the NVMe from my current build as well. CPUs I was looking at are the Ryzen 7 7700x, Ryzen 9 7900x, i7 13700k, or i9 12900K. But again, even with those, I am entirely outdated on MOBO chipsets and overall quality. Thanks all! I can provide any other info on request!

I recently built my first PC with plenty of other threads asking for help. Thanks to everyone who has so far. I'm looking for some again. I don't want to stretch the 8700k too far but I'd like 4.7GHz. Only I don't what to mess with as far as good voltages and such. I've watched guides but I still don't really feel like I understand it that well. Eventually I will probably get around to overclocking my GPU. Side question: What are some good programs to use to monitor system temps?

It’s wood. My 5 year old iPad connects no problem. That’s what I am confused about especially. That 5G has better signal than 2.4. This is my first PC, laptop, etc. In above reply, I have a 5 year old ipad with no connection problems and then my iPhone 6S is the same way. The iPad can connect to the 5G in my room easily as well. I have never used the adapter before and I have no way to try it unless I take it to my friends house to test in his PC so I might do that tomorrow to make sure it works right. Might be something as simple as it came loose while moving everything around inside. My RAM had come out of the socket when I went to boot so I put that back in and I will try that first tomorrow unless anyone else can think of something different. I’m still a couple days within the return period so.

Hey LTT Community, I recently got my first PC built. Ethernet is kinda difficult unless I can get my dad to ok drilling in the wall to run a cord from the router to my room. So I have a WiFi adapter. After getting Windows installed and such, I went to connect. I have a 2G and 5G network. The 5G showed one bar and the 2G didn’t show any signal. The router is pretty much directly underneath my room so it can’t be the signal isn’t reaching there. Could it be the antennas on the WiFi adapter faulty or something with the adapter itself? Not really sure why this is happening but with that problem, I can’t get to download and install drivers and other essentials on my PC. Any tips? For a router I have RT66CU I believe (Asus 1750AC) and the adapter I have is the Asus PCI-E AC68.

I have everything running but I have a few questions and I hope this was the right section to put it on the forums. I will try to figure overclocking tomorrow for my CPU, but right now my SSD won’t show up as an option for boot priority. Neither is the flash drive with WIndows on it. Am I doing something wrong? Everything else appears to be showing up normal in the BIOS. Everything detected right, I’ve set my fan curves, enabled XMP profile. But I can’t get the drives to be an option. The SATA information clearly shows that it recognizes the SSD, just not an option for boot priority. SEE NEW PICTURE. Which of these options of WIndows do I select? Also another thing, it says error everytime I start a boot because CPU fan error. I believe this is because with my AIO, I have everything plugged in there and no fan plugged in to the proper headers on the motherboard. All the fans and the pump works correctly. There is an option for me to disable the screen that comes up with error messages before boots. Should I disable that so it doesn’t come on everytime I turn my PC on? EDIT: Added picture of the screen that comes up from CPU fan error. Also added updated boot priority picture.

Nope. With my PC still not complete, the only devices running Windows 10 are my dad’s microsoft tablet and my sister’s laptop, neither of which automatically joined. My mom and dad’s phones automatically connected. After messing in settings for the router, my sister’s phone didn’t automatically connect when she got home. So maybe I fixed it?

Nope, they weren’t even close to being the same.

I have an AC1750 Asus Router that I just got set up and everything is working great. Only one problem I have noticed so far. Some devices are joining automatically without ever putting in the password themselves to connect. Idk if it is somehow just using recognized devices from the last one or what. Anyone familiar with the ASUS ROUTER app to help me fix that from happening of anyone being able to join the network without inputting the password?

The biggest city I am closest to is St. Louis. If Best Buy does it, that is easy enough for me to get to and I will try going there.

I am a first time builder. Watching build logs appear to be so easy. For the most part, PC building is. My trouble could just be in the wiring or it could be something bigger. My parts list is in my signature. I don’t have any spare parts to throw in to test if anything is dead. The PSU and Motherboard appear to work because the lights on the motherboard came on. I just am not sure what is wrong and I’d like to take it somewhere for moreso “professionals” to do it. I’m in a small town with a computer repair shop but I don’t think they help with custom builds. If I took it to Micro Center (where I bought the vast majority of my system) or Best Buy or something of the likes, would they be able to help? Or where is somewhere that I could take it to get it to work properly?

I don’t know. I asked for requirements and they said preferably with vPro enabled but it seems like it’s not absolutely necessary. I don’t NEED a 1060 or 1070, I was just saying if it came with one of those it’d be nice, I won’t be doing much for gaming on this. They didn’t give any requirements that it would need a dedicated GPU, that was just a throw in if the laptop had it that I’m neutral on that being there or not. Integrated graphics is enough.

Looking for suggestions for a laptop at college. My college has recommended: i7 or i5 with vPro enabled 16 GB of ram SSD Things I’m looking for in addition: 500 GB or more of storage 5+ hours of battery life 1060 or 1070 would be nice but not necessary as it won’t be my main driver taking my rig down for my room. No real price range, but I don’t want to spend more than is necessary. Would just like some recommendations, nothing too wild. Hoping to keep it under $2k USD.