JoyboyP

I finally managed to fix this by a full windows re-install. error code 51 is now gone and CPU-Z and Hardware Monitor both work now.

I'm still having no luck with this. I just tried reinstalling windows keeping files and programs and switching between main and backup BIOS. the error 51 on my mobo only appears as windows is starting (about 2 seconds after the windows icon and loading circle appears). My PC still works fine but it still wont just shut down or restart with out using the buttons on my case. I don't know if this is related but I've noticed since this has started happening CPUID hardware monitor and CPU-Z won't work. As they start up they freeze and I can't get rid of them unless I restart my PC (Task Manager can't close them). I've tried reinstalling these but still has the same result. Other monitoring software still works though.

I don't know if you've done this already but, you may want to delid your CPU. Many people report a 14 - 25C drop in temps with the 4770K which of cause will help with your noise levels and later overclocking. I'm yet to delid mine as I get 80 - 85C after only 15mins of Prime95 and that's without overclocking.

No we don't have a tachometer and it did have rubber mounts and we didn't bother with the voltage reduction wire. Judging from what you've said we may have had a dodgy fan or motherboard. We had to replace his motherboard the other day due to several issues. It had an intermittent green audio jack, dodgy PCIe lanes every graphics card we've tested in his system has had different problems all 4 well 5 of them (1 MSI R9 295X2, 2 970 G1 gaming in SLI, 980 Strix and a 780Ti GHz edtion). This just may have been an other issue with the board which was an Asus X79 ROG Rampage IV Black edition (his fans did always seem a little loud to me). Thanks for the input.

I can't remember which one it was, just that it was 120mm PWM and brown. In the BIOS we set it to silent mode and it was still the loudest fan and when the PC started up, it revved up to max for about 30 seconds before slowing back down. It wasn't extremely loud, but still the loudest. We also tried using AI Suit to change it's performance curve but again still the loudest compared to Cooler Master Nepton 280L with stock fans and in the Aerocool Xpredator x1 Avenger Edition with a BitFenix Spectre Pro LED 230mm in the front. It was used as the bottom intake for about a week before it was remove.

Fair enough, I thought I'd just give you some info which may help you make a better decision. A friend of mine did have 1 Noctua 120mm fan in his system and it was by far the loudest thing in his system even when it was operating at minimum performance. So since then I've not been a big fan of Noctua fans (no pun intended). If you ever what to swap out fans these are the specs to look for. I found looking for fans which have a max noise volume of 25dB-A or under 30dB-A for slightly more performance to be a good sweet spot between quiet and performance. As you have fan filters and a rad (Air or watercooled) static pressure (mm-H2O) optimised fans are more ideal over airflow (usually CFM). The one down side to 140mm fans over 120mm is they generally don't have as high a static pressure compared to 120mm. I found 2 - 2.6mm-H2O to be a petty good air pressure for 140mm fans whilst keeping them quiet. I found stock fan filter with a case to be OK but not brilliant. Yours are like my PSU one. They stop the larger particles but not the finer ones. If you can see the gaps in your filters that's how big a dust particle will get sucked through. The finer the mesh the better the filter and foam ones are the best. I use Demciflex filters for my 140mm fans 2x 280 x 140mm. My 200mm fan has a stock foam filter in front of it. Coupled with keeping a positive air pressure in my case (I only have 1 exhaust, which is my 120mm rad) I get next to no dust build up in my case, unless I leave the side of my case off which I do on the odd occasion. Fine ash dust is a big problem in my house as we have 2 open fires. The only other part of my system dust unfortunately gets into is my PSU with it's stock filter. The finer the mesh your filter has the more frequently you have to clean them, I have to clean mine every couple of week to a month. I don't mean to sound patronizing, I'm just used to righting things so a 5 year old could understand it. This is what I found to be best from my experience, bot of course your mileage may vary. Hope you found atleast part of it useful.

Okay, Thanks. I just couldn't find any of the parts for sale in UK store, not even the 3.5" command module so I wasn't sure.

I know the feeling, I suffer a lot with dust. I know this isn't what you asked for, but it'd be better for several reasons. If I were you I would get a 280mm AIO watercooler (your case should support one). The Corsair H110i GT is a good choice and changing the stock fans with your cooler for quieter ones is a good idea as well.Watercooling keeps your temps down better which is good for lower noise levels (as you're an audiophile) and better overclocking, you can kill 2 birds with 1 stone. Larger fans can operate at lower speeds and keep the same performance making your system quieter, so 14cm is better than 12cm. Water cooling is almost always quieter that air cooling, as they don't need to work as hard to achieve the same result. Also I would advise you to get some fine mesh dust filters (this maybe difficult with your case), especially for your intake fans. Filters are easier to clean than fans and rads. Have more intake fans than exhaust, this gives you a positive air pressure in your case. Which help prevent dust build up and help cooling performance. If you can switch out any 12cm fans with 14cm ones and run them at a lower RPM to further decrease system noise. If you decide to go with air cooling just be VERY careful with your RAM clearance, as the best performing units usually have clearance issues. Frankie's suggestion is a very good air cooler both very quiet and high performing, but does have RAM clearance issues, you can readjust the hight of the fans but that will affect performance as it would any cooler. I have an Enermax Liqtech 120X as my case doesn't support anything bigger along with 1x 20cm fan and 3x 14cm fans and I run them as low as I can. As a result the loudest part of my system at start up is my 4TB WD Black HDD. Brohoof /)

Sorry I didn't know where I should post this. I live in the UK and I can't find any Corsair Link parts (commander mini,lighting node, ect) for sale on Amazon.co.uk, Scan or Overclockers any UK site. So I was wandering if they have been discontinued as I can't seem to find any info on this.

I know this has probably been asked a million times already but... What are the best 280mm rads for the Corsair Graphite 760T. I'm don't know if I want to do push or push and pull, that will depend on how much space there is in the case with the rads. I've decided on the BitFenix Spectre LED PWM Blue 140mm fans, as they are quiet and have a decent static pressure for 140mm LED fans. This will be cooling a 4770K (I got unlucky with this one, it runs 80 - 85C with Prime95 after only 15 mins) which I'll be delidding soon and a Titan X. Any help would be appreciated as I've never done a custom loop before.

I've never had a problem with it in the 6 months I've had it. I don't have spare SSD or HDD space for it. I could use my system image backup but that was made after this issue started, or I could do a reinstall of windows but that would take days to get everything back to how it was. The issue isn't booting it, it's shutting it down. Everyone else with code 51 on my mobo has issues starting it up and mostly with hackingtosh systems.

I just noticed the other day, my motherboard's debug LED is displaying error code 51. according to the Manuel it means Memory Initialization Error Occurs. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the RAM. I still don't know what I should do. If I remember rightly, all this started just after (I don't think it was immediately after but I'm not sure), testing my OCZ Revodrive 3x 2 in my friends PC to test it's PCIe 1x performance. The Revodrive is what has my OS and programs on. Since this as well it does seem to take longer to login as well.

Use GPU-Z to see what kind of GDDR5 memory you have. Hynix - you can get a average 200 MHz increase. Samsung - can go over 500 MHz. With my 780Ti GHz Edition I can only get a +200MHz increase as it has Hynix memory. My friend has a 980 Strix and got +525MHz increase as his has Samsung memory. This should help you see what sort of OC you can get. @ TheElt Brohoof /)

We'll be upgrading to the 5930K soon. The 5960X is a bit OTT for my needs I only need the 5930K for the extra PCI lane support. Because of my OCZ Revodrive 3x 2 I can't SLI with a non extreme CPU

Be careful with the R9295X2 a friend of mine had one (for his triple monitor setup) and it was very unstable with it's frame rates and the drivers don't fully support it. when the Omega driver came out it only made things worse. He sold it and got a 980 instead and has been much happier ever with the lower frame rates. And to anyone else with an older mobo with like the X79 chipset, the PCIe lanes can bottle neck it. You need to make sure your board has gen 3 slots and not gen 2 with support for gen 3.