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Ah okay good to know, Ill just wait till im moved out and have an actual landline connection. Thanks all!

Hey all, Im trying to setup outside access to my LAN for purposes such as Plex and games servers but seem to be running into some brick wall. My network setup is as follows: 4G Huawei 535 as WAN -> Plugged into Ubiquiti UDM Pro -> 10GBe Switch -> TrueNAS server with VMs and Jails running the various apps. Ive setup port forwarding on the Huawei ( I think, they call it Virtual Servers?) and then setup port forwarding on the UDM Pro but I cant connect to my server from outside my LAN. Attached screenshots of my settings below: Any help would be much appreciated

Hey all, Im just trying to consolidate my horrid mess of a home network into something a bit neater and modern. Purchased a little 9U rack (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363611393778) and want to put my Freenas server mounted in it on rails (so I can access internals with ease) but totally at a loss on which rails to buy whats compatible etc. Here is the case I am using: https://www.amazon.co.uk/4U-Rackmount-Mini-ITX-Included-Exceptionally/dp/B07G4KF134 Any pointers would be much appreciated as im totally new to rack mounting etc!

This was it thank you so much!

Haven got a different mobo to hand to try but the system worked perfectly with a gtx780 installed.

I've tried a all the outputs with no success, Only one PCI slot on this ITX board unfortunately.

Hey guys, Ive just picked up an ASUS Dual 3060ti but unfortunately having a major problem. The card boots up fine in safe mode but then as soon as a driver is installed I get no output on all ports. The computer seems to still be on and functioning but with no display. Its built inside an NZXT H1 so the PSU is within power spec. Steps tried so far: Uninstalling and reinstalling drivers with DDU. Installing older drivers. Reinstalling windows and letting that install drivers. None have fixed the issue.

yeah I will be testing tomorrow, just wanted to make sure I wasnt completely wasting my time before I undo all my network setup to access the server, thank you both for your advice and giving me some hope!!

Theres no M.2 slot only the mSATA, But I have an m.2 to Pci-e adaptor, its a pretty old board around 2012

I have a 480gb NVME Kingston drive with a PCIe to m.2 converter taken out from my old PC and im wondering if It would be possible to use it in my FreeNAS server which is sporting a Gigabyte Z77 UP4 TH and an i7 3770K. I understand it probably wont be bootable but even to use it for caching would be nice.

Amazing this is one of those things I knew must be a thing but didnt know the correct term I had to google to find it. KK i'll look into a pfsense router. I was worried about throttling (my average monthly usage is around 2TB) but read a lot into the provider I went with and their whole shtick is no throttling. Will put it to the absolute test in my 30 day trial period.

Hey guys thought I would rack all your brains about this. I live in rural england and althrough we 'technically' have fibre we only get speeds of around 12-15Mbps down and 2-4Mbps up but only 10ms ping. I just bought a 4G Router and have an unlimited plan and that's getting me a pretty respectable 60Mbps down and 30Mbps up but very jittery ping between 50-150ms. How is best to bridge the two connections? My network setup currently is a bit convoluted. Broadband comes into router in main house and goes across a fenceline via ethernet to a TPLink powerline adaptor downstairs of my annex. Powerline adaptor upstairs leads ethernet to main Wifi router. Main router is connected to 5 port switch. Switch is connected to a mikrotik SFP 10gig switch. FreeNAS and main computer connected to both SFP switch (with intel 520 10gig cards) and 5port 1gig switch. I've attached a crude diagram below.

weird thought, would connecting via an extension lead make a difference to the input voltage?

So spoken to the support and basically they said my input voltage is annoyingly between the threshold of when AVR kicks in. https://support.powerwalker.com/kb/faq.php?id=39 It sits stable at 250 but if it ever goes over 252 it will kick AVR on but won’t turn it off until it drops to 247 so it basically means it’s going to be very random when it kicks into gear. Their response was effectively “buy one of our higher end units”

Oh for sure its primitive (hence 2200VA for only £130), sure it has a display but only one button on the device: power.

The System is very limited in terms of settings, the WinPower app it comes with only lets you see a crude diagram of the power flow and a % load figure. No temp readings or anything else. I don’t see how I could manually set an output voltage or anything so it seems to have just automatically decided that 213 is what it’s going to output and stick it on AVR with a very loud 40mm fan running all the time. It’s super annoying. I’ll wait to hear back from the manufacturer to see if this is intended behavior or not. If it is I’m returning the unit because my work requires a pretty low noise floor in my space.

Manual states it can output between 170 - 280 VAC I assume thats with AVR though oops was mistaken thats input rating, says output is 230 VAC +/-10%, being that this is my first UPS im not super familiar with all the terms/specs so I cant really make assumptions about the specifications given so here is the manual: https://powerwalker.com/manuals/VI 650-2200 SH(L)/PowerWalker VI SH(L) - Quick Guide EN.pdf

Yep purchased new from Amazon, I have opened a ticket with the manufacturer to see what they say. I only have the two systems noted plugged into it nothing else, it could be it switches when one of the systems idles but I have had it happen whilst watching youtube and having Avid MC open so I doubt it.

Hey all, just bought a PowerWalker VI 2200 LCD for peace of mine however after about 30 mins runtime it will always click into AVR mode and the fan ramps on. The Input is steady at 250VAC but the output then drops to 213VAC. This is my first UPS I have no experience with them so whats going on here and how do I fix it? I have two systems plugged into it: A Freenas server running a 3770k (600w corsair psu), and my main rig with a 3900x and GTX1080 (1000w corsair PSU). When running fur mark and CPU-Z stress I was still under 50% load on the UPS so I'm not overworking it. Thanks in advance for any advice!

It’s definitely f2/del for bios and f8 for boot menu It works when I boot without the monitor plugged in just doesn’t work with it plugged in very strange

Yeah I’ve tried this and it works with the new monitor unplugged, I’m wondering why it might be like that as it’s a little annoying unplugging the Monitor everytime I want to go into bios

Yep had this mobo a few months been fine going into bios with f2 or del and boot menu with f8 but just this recent monitor change for some reason has made it go straight to windows no matter what I press

Sorry for late reply, in the end I switched to a NZXT X72 but temps are about the same it just clocks a little higher so im wondering if its some power management stuff going on that is pinning my temps high even at idle, Im using the AMD Ryzen Balanced power settings. The triple rad is mounted top pulling air in with three Noctua's FP12, I have a 120mm rad from my graphics cards mounted front and that's a 1080 running at 38C idle. Ambient is around 20C.

Hey guys, Im having a weird issue i've never run into before, I just installed a new monitor in my triple setup and now I cant seem to access the BIOS. The keyboard is plugged directly into the motherboard im mashing delete from even before I press the power button until it just boots straight into windows. Monitor is a gigabyte FI27Q, Mobo is a x570 Crosshair Hero VII with a 3900x incase these are relevant?

sorry I shouldve said this is the new h100i pro xt rgb not the OG h100, if thats the case should I maybe step up to a 360mm rad or is there little point?