Thelillypad123

New video has sound

edit: fixed video! Video: https://imgur.com/a/lslULTJ The noise stops if I gently impede the right-most fan with my finger. There is no physical obstruction of the fan (checked meticulously). Does this seem like an issue worthy of an RMA? As per MSI, I have to pay RMA shipping cost from me to them (VA to CA). Currently my card is hard to find in stock and I worry they may give me the run-around for a month or two. If they don’t have my card on hand, would it be possible to find that out beforehand?

So I just got done installing windows onto my friends PC. It wasn’t the first time that this PC had had windows installed. His computer was just running slow and inefficient so I suggested a clean install. So I made the bootable USB, went through the steps, deleted every partition that he had in the setup, and chose his smaller 120 gb ssd as the windows drive, let the setup happen, turned off the computer, unplugged the usb and turned the computer on. The weird thing is in his bios, the ssd doesn’t show up as a bootable option at all. It’s nonexistent. What does show up is his empty 1 tb hdd. I exited the bios and let the PC boot up only to see that in his file explorer the ssd was the only thing to show and his hdd was nonexistent. I’m confused. Did the windows install somehow put the bootable portion onto the hdd and the rest onto the ssd? I don’t see why the ssd doesn’t show up in the bios boot priority menu, or why the HD’s doesn’t show up in file explorer..... please advise!

Hey yall, recently just started college and realized that it would be pretty beneficial to me to purchase a second monitor to go next to my alienware aw2518h for multitasking. So, I am looking for a 1440p IPS monitor that would look almost seemless next to it. I am assuming a dell 1440p might be the best? Also, I am looking for a good vesa mount that could hook onto the back side of a desk that has about 2 inches of horizontal clearance from the back panel of the backside of the drawer. This protrusion is about .75 inches thick. Any vesa mounts capable of holding onto 2 monitors with that type of clearance?

Quick question: is formatting a hard drive enough to completely erase any potential issues from drivers or software in a previous windows install? Aka is it good enough for a “clean os install?

I get what you are saying, that the choppiness that im perceiving is the g-sync not working, but I only ask as to why it isnt as choppy above 260? why does it go smooth again all of a sudden. That's my issue.

Yes, I am

It's hard to understand why this has started to happen all of a sudden because it really never has for me and it is INCREDIBLY annoying. However, my system is not bottlenecked on the cpu side and my cpu does not hit above 90% usage at really high frame rates, so it must be something else. My issue is: I can play rainbow six siege between 190-300 fps. Anywhere from 190-240 is smooth as butter and so is 260-300+ and so on. However, as soon as I hit the area of 240-260 the microstutters are unbearable. I have an alienware 240hz so it is not like this microstutter is being caused by the refresh rate of the monitor, or else wouldn't anything above 240hz have the same effect? It is really just truly that one range of fps. I'm going crazy with this one, it is super annoying.

Bump, need help with this!

Long story short, the new 398.82 Nvidia Graphics Driver is causing me a ton of issues and microstuttering. However, I did a reinstall of windows because I thought it was the actual culprit. Now I know it is the driver that is causing my issues. I keep reading that 391.35 is the last driver before all my related issues started. Is there a way I can install that driver and all its related drivers manually? I don’t think I can rollback using the driver utility in windows because I haven’t had any other iteration of the driver installed on this instance of windows.

Could someone tell me how to uninstall a gpu driver and then install a much older one from the nvidia website?

Think if I sold them separate, I might actually be able to sell them for a low price and still make a better profit than selling them as a bundle.

I know for a fact that if I sold the parts on their own I could make one hell of a much bigger profit. The problem is just getting people to believe it's unused. I might have to buy one and open it just to see. But it is pretty crazy, the mouse online is sold for $30 on the low end, the keyboard is $50, mousmat is $15, and the headset could be sold for like $25 and I'd still be making a $70 profit and those are still under what they are worth individually.

Maybe, the keyboard does have chroma if that means anything. Tbh the only thing in that bundle that I guess you could say is outdated is the mouse.

So there is this razer gaming bundle available at Walmart and other retailers: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Razer-4-Piece-Gaming-Bundle-Includes-Cynosa-Pro-Keyboard-DeathAdder-Mouse-Kraken-Headset-and-Goliathus-Mouse-Pad/977211423?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222228103787778&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=217695948443&wl4=pla-351065969446&wl5=9008218&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=977211423&wl13=&veh=sem as you can see, the bundle comes with Razer Kraken Headset Deathadder 2013 Goliathus Speed Mousepad Cynosa Pro Keyboard now keep in mind that this bundle is being priced at $89 online, but for some reason at my local Walmart it is being sold for $49. Now at that price, it make me want to buy a bunch and flip them for maybe like $75? Do you guys think there would be a market for a flip like that?

So, I have been avoiding cleaning my monitor because honestly I'm just scared to break something when I tinker with it. My monitor has a few spots of what I would consider to be "gunk" something that has hardened over time and kind of solidified. It's not super thick from what I can tell but it is thick enough to where I can clearly see it on a white background. So, my questions are: How much pressure can a monitor screen take before I start to damage it, and can these kinds of spots usually be remedied with a cleaning solution and a sponge or microfiber cloth? If someone could give me some advice or link me a good knowledgeable guide, I would be greatly appreciative.

I figured out that the audio thing was an issue with my board (gigabyte Airbus gaming 7 z370) but there are still really weird things going on anyway on window's end like the Microsoft edge not loading any webpages if looked up in a search engine and then clicked on. It just doesn't respond, and then when I try to switch my default search engine I get a blue window that pops up with the windows gear symbol and then it just stops there. Is it possible that the Windows file on the ISO USB stick got corrupted or something?

So after I did a CPU mobo swap from my 6700k and Asus pro gaming z170 to my 8700k and gigabyte gaming 7, I noticed that my windows install seemed a bit wonky so I unplugged all of my drives except my os drive and reinstalled windows after formatting that drive. Now with the fresh windows install I still notice that things are wonky? Do you think it could be from my other drives? Like on discord my voice apparently makes this alien noise, my games stutter quite badly, etc. So my question is: how do I completely wipe all of my hard drives and ssd's so that nothing is left over from the previous windows install so that nothing can interfere with this new install? Will formatting all of my drives and deleting all of the partitions do the trick?

Try going into your bios and disabling intel adaptive thermal monitor and see what happens, worked for a friend of mine who had a similar problem.

So when I was putting my gpu into my new mobo after a swap I noticed that I was pushing rather hard to try to get my gpu to go into the slot. Then I noticed I had it misaligned and that I had scratched a bit of the plastic off on the part that is right below the sections of teeth that make connections within the pci slot. I know this is probably me being stupid and paranoid, but I thought I should ask anyway: Is this a problem? the ground off material was nowhere near these connection points and really not bad in general, but i'm assuming that this wont have any noticeable effect on my gpu or its performance right? I would kind of assume that is the reason that that plastic piece is right there anyway. TL;DR Scratched plastic below gpu pci connecter teeth, want to know if my gpu is okay.

I just bought a 8700k and gigabyte gaming 7 board. Now I'm selling my 6700k and Asus z170 pro gaming aura mobo. Does $300 sound like a decent price to sell it for?

any idea what I could do to diagnose exactly where the problem lies then? Could it be that my router isn't good enough to handle the bandwidth?

okay, so I ran the test you linked and it said I got a C for the bufferbloat and an A for quality? Not exactly sure what that means.

So I have a few questions that maybe somebody could help me answer or troubleshoot. So I like to play a game called rainbow six siege, and lately they have made changes to their servers and now they have added networking icons on screen, and mine keeps detecting severe packet loss from time to time even though I am on Ethernet and not wifi. So the way I have it set up, I have either a cat5e or a cat6 cable (don't honestly remember) that runs from my netgear router/modem combo 250 feet up into my room. However, that cable is a bit longer than I actually need, so in order to make it fit right, I needed to loop it over itself just one time. So my question is, how can I reduce this packet loss and make my connection rock solid so that I never have to worry about packet loss again. My internet is 75Mbps down and 35 up btw and my ping to the game server is 9 ms. I also have a brand new Asus router that I haven't set up too, not sure if that would alleviate the issue? TL:DR; I want to know what could cause packet loss on Ethernet connection and how to fix it.

So, short story short when I was monitoring my cpu on msi afterburner (have no idea if these numbers from this program are reliable) I noticed that my cpu was running at or around 72C on a H90 Corsair cooler. I then noticed after going in my bios that my CPU was running at 1.3V at stock frequencies with no O.C., after reading online a bit I decided to turn it down to 1.25V at the same stock frequencies. This got the temps under control and I haven't noticed anything weird except for one thing: My games that I play crash way more frequently than they used to? Do you think that my CPU is unstable at 1.25V at 4Ghz? Because if so, I must've got a really crappy CPU for temps and OCing.