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toriam78

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About toriam78

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  • Birthday 1978-11-11

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    Norway

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  1. If I where to build my own ultra compact, would the 60w psu work with a lets say 3200g, b450 motherboard with a m2 + ssd? https://www.inter-tech.de/en/products/case/mini-itx-nuc/itx-m-300
  2. It is currently outside my plans for such a device but has anyone any experience running VM's on them or is the platform simply not suited for it? Has anyone built their own ultracompact machine as a torrent box to hide away?
  3. Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: E-mule, BiglyBT, seeding 400+ torrents, 200 files for emule, firefox as browser. I currently have one working rig which is my 3800 ryzen, 2080 super watercooled rig running 24/7. The reason why it runs 24/7 is that it run's emule and biglybt. Emule is win32 only so Linux is not an option for me even if I could somehow get something equivalent running on my qnap nas I dont have the patience or knowledge. I have been thinking of throwing together a box with old parts for a long time but the power draw (for what the rig should do) has been the turn off so to say plus finding a place to put the thing. The small room I have my network rack in is hot enough so I really do not want to add more heat into that room. An intel NUC then seems to serve my needs where I'm looking at a i3 version NUC10i3FNH and an i5 NUC10i5FNH. I am looking at getting an m.2 + and 2,5 ssd and run them in raid 1 for redundancy as uptime is important for me. I plan to fix the NUC under the desk in my office, connect it to power and Ethernet and remote to it via my main rig for que management and other things I want to keep running on it (My NAS handles my plex) but I dont foresee anything CPU heavy other than downloading or uploading torrents/files to and from my NAS to the internet which is rare and speed is not really a priority for those tasks. I need a small box that doesnt sip too much power that is noiseless and that I can hide it away. For OS I'll probably run win 10 on it. For my usecase, would an i3 be enough, or would i5 make more sense, and how much memory would you guess I would need? On my main rig BiglyBT uses 550 MB and emule 60 mb as of writing this but they are neither uploading or downloading much if anyting so I may have answered my own question on memory as full memory usage is a little over 9 GB with 22.6 gb available. To close this novel, do you have any experience with longevity of Intel NUC devices? The rigs I put together myself last 5-7 years without issues so if they do not even get close to such an age it would be good to get some input.
  4. Hello all, Please prepare for a longwinded post... I'm currently planning to build a new box and re-use the 144 hz 1440p monitor and peripheral: PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/g6r7vW CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X 3.9 GHz 8-Core Processor ($373.35 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard ($254.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($328.99 @ Amazon) OS array raid 1: - 2 x Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Amazon) Games array raid 1: - 2 x Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($137.35 @ Amazon) Storage array raid 1: - 2 x Storage: Western Digital Red 4 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($116.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($749.99 @ Amazon) Case: Lian Li O11D XL-W ATX Full Tower Case ($199.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair AX 850 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($234.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.99 @ B&H) 7 x Case Fan: Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan ($29.90 @ Amazon) (for the radiators and back fan) May add 2 x 140mm fans at the bottom of the rack for positive pressure. I am going to cool the cpu and gpu with corsair hydro x blocks and 2 x ek pe 360 radiators (first ever watercooled box) and corsair XD5. I'll use a fan controller to connect all the fans to so I can use 1 header on the motherboard for all the fans and the pump to adjust speeds on cpu temp. I have NAS'es for backup, 1 in my house and 1 at a neighbours house so the backup part of my data is taken care of. The only reason why I'm planning raid 1 for all three arrays is redundancy so I dont get downtime in case a drive fails. I built a allround box for my father and I used 2 x WD red 5400 rpm drives in raid 1 as the OS drive using the onboard intel raid controller on the motherboard. When there has been a power outage he comlained the pc would be slow for a very long time, which I get due to the drive speed and volume of data to be checked. In normal operation the box gets the job done for what he uses it for. Now to the point of this post: My current box uses 4 x 300 wd velociraptor in raid 5 which I built in 2012 and I suffer no slowdown at all when the array is checked after a power outage or crash. This new box will be the first machine I build with SSD or M.2. Do I need to be concerned with slow array checking of the SSD or M.2 array or is this purely linked to the drive speed? If someone has any experience with raid 1 os drive using SSD or M.2 using onboard raid controller and and slowdown durring array check that is greatly appreciated. The above build may seem overkill but when I build a new box I build it to last for 5 years and again, redundancy is important to me.
  5. The article doesnt say say how much bigger the 360 pe is to not conflict with the front IO however I've found this: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/98wlrh/pco11_dynamic_rad_compatibility/ where a user states: " Laveaolous 3 points · 9 months ago · edited 9 months ago Had no modding needed with an EK PE 360 top and EK SE 360 side, there are a couple more slim rads out there that fit in the back I believe. You want white, but I'm not sure its that important if in the back. My build need to redo a couple of bends but ran out of tube The EK SE rad was a tight fit with the front panel cables any wider would have bee a problem and the ports need to be up top though that was always my plan " Thiis would mean 1 x https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-pe-360-triple and 1 x https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-classic-se-360 and that loop doesnt look that far off my scetch... As this is my first ever watercooled build, should i buy the rack and test fit the radiators, pump+res and a handfull of fittings and bends or should I decide on cpu and gpu (intel or ryzen 3000) and overclock percentage that decides radiator thickness first? Given that I stay on a rtx 2080 ti (perhaps founders if they are the best binned ones?) and a Intell 8700x overclocked to 5 ghz, could i push the gpu with these two radiators or would i have to re-tink things? Watt calculations will answer it I'm sure, but I'm not there yet..
  6. If you could do the bother of taking pictures tomorrow I would greatly appreciate it. I do plan to have the fans on the side radiator in the main chamber as both radiator and fan i would guess is too tall and would interfere with a long graphicscard as most (if not all) 2080 ti's would overhang the side radiator/fan.
  7. So with a radiator at the top it will not interfere with a side radiator with the ports at the top? Is it possible to see a picture how youve solved it?
  8. Cheers for your suggestion. I would like to avoid it purely for esthetic reasons.Also I dont see an easy way to empty the system without turning it 180 degrees (not a showstopper) As you already use this rack, are you happy with it? Anything you dont like? I want to place the rack 60 cm from my head on a desk. How do you use your rig?
  9. Posted by mistake, still writing it. -- Edit: Needed information added
  10. I am starting to draw up my first ever liquid loop as all my rigs have been on air. I am getting a white Lian li PC-011 Dynamic. Parts I've listed so far are 2 x EK Coolstream PE 360 1 x EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM 6 x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM ( i love the colours and the performance) 1 x Corsair commander pro (to control all the fans using a water temp probe 1 x Water temperature probe As for platform I have not decided on Intel nor AMD yet as I am waiting on what happens at Computex but I will most likely get a RTX 2080 Ti. Overclocking wise I aim at 10%-30% overclocking, depending on what the hardware can do and the performance to noise ratio. RGB isnt my thing so I will not add this with the exception of ram sticks. I will use soft tubing and clear water as fluid, perhaps using quick disconnects where they are needed. What I want to do it to watercool cpu and GPU and what my challenge here is the loop and compability with the rack. I've understood that there are limitations for the side radiator due to the top radiator so I've tried to do research on this. My current drawing is now: For the side radiator I guess I have to mount it with the ports to the top if the radiator is mounted behind as its under 5 cm thick: But the problem there is to connect it into the loop as its blocked by the top radiator? The reason for mounting the radiator behind and the fans in front is not to interfere with a long graphics card. The drawing now shows the ports for the side radiator at the bottom but for this to work I will have to cut away the bottom mounting point for the radiator/fan? Should I buy the case, pump/res, radiators and fans and play around before buy fittings, tubes and computer parts?
  11. Hello everyone, I currently have a 4 Bay Qnap (something like this https://www.qnap.com/en/product/tvs-471) I have it populated with 4 x 2 tb wb red's and currently it lives at my parrents house. I am now looking into getting a new NAS in my own house that I can upgrade over the years to store 4K movies, music and the like. Majority the NAS will be used for long time storage. Features I'm looking for: * visual indicator on the front of the NAS to indicate which drive is dead. * 12 Bays for 3,5 inch drives (I'll use 6 drives in raid 6 from day one and expand later when the need arises. * 10 gb sfp+ port (I have a UniFi Security Gateway Pro with a Unifi 48 port PoE switch to connect together with the NAS using stp+) * Bonus if it supports VM as I can either put a Windows or Linux image on it to work as a torrent client allowing me to have one pc less running 24/7 * Noise 25-30 Db max. I have a computer rack in a closet in the middle of my house and noise can be an issue. I have already replaced the fans in the router and switch. * Syncronize files between my NAS and my parrents NAS for backing up eachothers files. * A NAS I set up once and then I leave it alone and it does its thing and it just works I am currently looking at TS-1635 (https://www.qnap.com/en/product/ts-1635) but in the few reviews I've found it has been pointed out that VM doesnt work that well and the 10gb sfp+ port yields no significant effect. You also have the cost. I am not a linux guy at all, and all my computers have Microsoft OS at the moment. I have also not ever built my own NAS box. Alternativly I've been thinking that perhaps building a NAS into a Node 304 (https://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Design-Mini-ITX-Computer-FD-CA-NODE-304-BL/dp/B009LHF4FO) but this means fewer drives. Any advise is appreciated if I should scrap my "buy a Qnap or Synology" and build my own or if there is a NAS that can handle the things I need with the ammount of drives I need (for the future).
  12. @Tabs I appreciate your input and thank you kindly for spending the time for the extended reply. I can give you some input of what the UPS is pulling: Ubiquty 48 port 500w poe switch ubiquiti Ubiquty Security gateway pro Fiber modem (low power draw) Apple tv kind of device (low power draw) (future qnap rackmounted NAS) As you can see the UPS I have is complete overkill when it comes to the maximum effect the UPS can provide. The batteries are brand new but the UPS itself is perhaps 5 years old. The room the rack is in is about 27 degrees as in Norway we have hot days right now with 31 degrees every day. As for having a manual mechanism is not practical for me as I would have to be in the house to change the voltage from f.ex 9V to 12V. If I had the knowledge to make a rasberry PI with sensors to trigger once the temperature rises that might be an option but that is above my abilities. I have pondered the challenge myself and I've come up with perhaps removing the 80mm fan in the UPS, block of that hole and instead cut a holde for a 14 mm fan (https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a14-flx) on top of the UPS close to where the 80 mm fan is mounted. PIcture: the 12V connector is on the PCB is right undert the plastic bracket to the left of the fan. As the fan now is pulling out air and the air is pulled in from the front I do wonder that even if the fan is mounted above the 3 copper coils that if can effectivly pull out enough air or if I would need 2 x 14cm fans to either pull out from the top or blow down on the coils and capacitors/heatsinks.. I have no idea if the 12V connectors on the PCB can pull two fans without buying them and testing it using a splitter. Just so you have an idea, I would mount the fan(s) on top of the UPS as there is not enough space inside to mount any fans. Another scenario would be that I make a 80 mm to 140mm funnel and bolt on in the back and drill a hole to get the power cable in. What do you think of the above musings?
  13. @Tabs Thank you for your answer. The challenges with adding a resistor is that iit effectivly reducing the speed and thus resulting in less CFM. This would do the same as replacing it with a lower CFM fan. I am out of my depth on this subject. I've found this papst fan (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ebm-papst-inc/8412NGH/381-2338-ND/441670) which has 46,5 CFM (37 dB) compared to 67 CFM (48,6 dB) on the Delta fan in the UPS today. As you say the cicuitry will get super hot when the line power drops and the batteries take over. I am no thermal engineer but how far down in CFM would be adviseably to reduce to (with tradeoff in less fan noise) before compromising batteries and circuitry? The UPS is out of warranty and I've opened it up. There is not space for mutiple fans and no extra 12V fan points onthe PCB so either I live with the fan noise or figure out somehow how much minimum CFM performance the fan needs to be and replace it. Your comments are appreciated.
  14. Hello everyone, At home I have a 42U rack which stores my network components and at the bottom of it I have a Socomec Netsys U1700 UPS (https://www.socomec.com/files/live/sites/systemsite/files/UPS/PDF_catalogue/pdf_web_GB/2016/cat_netysrt_EN.pdf) My challenge is that my computer room is in the middle of the house and the UPS fan is audible into my living room which is on the same floor. There is one fan from delta (http://www.delta.com.tw/product/cp/dcfans/download/pdf/FFB/FFB80x80x25.4mm.pdf) ( FFB0812SH ) at the back of it and is quite noisy but in turn pushes a lot of air. I am debating with myself to replace this fan with one from Noctura (https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a8-flx/specification) although it has half the CFM of the Delta one. Power distribution here in Norway is excellent and I don’t experience outages that last long and I use the UPS to prevent systems going down in short "blinks" in power. I haven’t found much information on line about this but one comment has been that a too low CFM fan in an UPS causes the UPS to overheat and shut down in cases where it is discharging power via the batteries. Should I be worried about UPS overheating with the chosen fan? Has anyone any experience with replacing their UPS fan(s) with quieter fans and how the UPS is after?
  15. Wow I did not expect such a speedy comment! thank you kindly for your input and I will dive into the article. and for the record, I really like the "cricketing" of my velo spinn drives followup question though, is it money out the window to get the most expensive 1 tb intel drives for my boot drive? Speedwise is 1,5 times faster than my current raid 5, but for me realiability is more important than speed. Thanks again!
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