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JohnnyGrey

Member
  • Content Count

    742
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About JohnnyGrey

  • Title
    It's just a name...
  • Birthday 1986-07-15

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chicago Suburbs
  • Interests
    Technology, Music, Cars, Alcohol :P

System

  • CPU
    Core i5 3570K @stock
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Maximus V Gene
  • RAM
    Samsung MV-3V4G3D/US 2x4gb 1600mhz 9-9-9-24 1.4v
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 660 Ti 3GB SuperClocked
  • Case
    Silverstone TJ08E
  • Storage
    Samsung 830 SSD 256GB • WD Black 1TB • Samsung F2 1.5TB | 2x WD Red 2TB
  • PSU
    BFG EX-1200
  • Display(s)
    Auria 27" IPS @2560x1440 60hz
  • Cooling
    Hyper 212 Evo
  • Keyboard
    Saitek Eclipse
  • Mouse
    Razer DeathAdder 3.5g
  • Sound
    Logitech G930 | Logitech Z313

Recent Profile Visitors

718 profile views
  1. If you care about minimizing your input latency, then @WereCatf's post, along with the accompanying video are spot on. The other side of the uncapped vs capped debate is whether you care about screen tearing. If your game goes above the 144hz refresh rate, then Freesync and G-Sync stop working and screen tearing will start happening again. The only competitive game I myself play is Overwatch, and I suck at the game, so I don't really care about minimizing input lag, as it's already "low enough," so I play with the game capped at 143fps via the in-game settings.
  2. What happens when you enable "Boot Menu" in this screen?
  3. This is what happened with me and a "Craigslist Special" Dell Optiplex. Granted, the rig is one generation older, but it was right at that time period where not everything within the BIOS was UEFI. I had a hell of a time getting Windows installed on an SSD. In fact, when UEFI was actually enabled, the whole "boot priority" section within the BIOS doesn't even do anything. I think this is what might do the trick. OP, if needed, post pics of a ton of settings within the BIOS. No harm!
  4. Hardware CASE: Fractal Design Node 804 PSU: Antec Earthwatts EA-380D MB: SuperMicro MBD-X11SSH-F-O CPU: Intel Core i3 6100T HS: Stock RAM: 1x16gb Kingston ValueRAM 2133mhz DDR ECC O/S Drive: 2x 64gb Sandisk Cruzer Ultra Fit 64gb (Mirrored) HDD 1: 7x Seagate IronWolf 2TB HDD 2: 1x WD Red 2TB FANS: 6x Corsair ML120 + Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter. UPS: CyberPower CST1300ALU Software and Configuration: My NAS is running Freenas 11.2-U3. The drives are configured as a single RaidZ3 pool, so I can suffer up to three HDD failures. I have two jails set up. The first is Plex, which serves all my movies and shows. The second is a Transmission, which runs Transmission, OpenVPN, as well as IPFW rules to only allow Transmission to send and receive data via the tun0 device. I have a fan control script which is setup as a post-init script that controls all six fans via a single header. I also have a script that runs every ten minutes to check whether the tun0 device exists inside the Transmission jail. If it doesn't, it restarts OpenVPN. Usage: Media, general file server. Backup: I have no backups set up. Shame on me. Additional info: I intentionally built this NAS to sip as little power as possible. I probably could have used fewer drives, but I wanted the redundancy. Th 8th Seagate Ironwolf is currently being RMA'd. Photos: (Most pictures are from 2017 when I built this)
  5. Some bugs seem to have gone away but some things persist. I'm down to one monitor for a couple weeks, but it seems switching from an exclusive-fullscreen game to the desktop takes eons, and Overwatch still freezes everytime a notification fades in and out. For example, changing the volume via keyboard shows the Windows 10 volume slider overlay. That freezes Overwatch for two seconds, once when it fades in, and once when it disappears. In all my years tinkering with computers, I have never experienced something as buggy as this. And this is an old card!
  6. Nope! I just stick with Windows Defender, or whatever it "became" in Windows 10. Haven't used a third-party A/V in years. So far nothing has happened since updating to the optional drivers, 19.3.3. I've played multiple rounds of Overwatch just fine. I'm about to fire up Apex or Division 2. All things considered, I can't shake this feeling that Nvidia had a much more stable, polished platform. If it's any consolation, I haven't owned an AMD card as my daily driver since the ATI Radeon 9600 XT, so it's been MANY YEARS. I'm loving the performance bump, but the little issues still suck.
  7. I actually reformatted and started from scratch, so there are no remnants of Nvidia on my system. Yeah it's odd. I can restart my computer normally just fine, but if I ever need to hard reset my PC, like I just did when my mouse just stopped working while in Overwatch, when I get back into the login screen, eyefinity is on. The login is in the center of the bezels of both monitors, etc. NO idea how it turns back on by itself. I do have an overclock of 4.3ghz on my CPU, so i hope that's not causing issues. I was too impatient to stability test longer than maybe twenty minutes. Nothing has crashed so far, other than Apex Legends every single match before the patch from last Thursday. Driver version is 19.2.3. I'm gonna try the optional update now. EDIT: To clarify, I have two 1080p 60hz panels. I was testing out Eyefinity with Division 2 maybe a week or so ago, since the game supports offsetting the view to one side. Normal FPS titles would have the crosshair behind a bezel with only two monitors. So initially, I manually turned it on.
  8. Anyone else have experience swapping from Nvidia to AMD? I recently switched from an EVGA GTX 960 2gb to a Gigabyte RX 580 8gb, and while performance increased a ton, there are little things that are making me second guess my decision. Overwatch was freezing every time a notification faded in and faded out (Origin, telling me a friend started playing Apex). Hard resetting my PC causes Eyefinity to turn itself back on. Sometimes alt+tabbing into and out of a fullscreen game is nowhere near as smooth as it is on Nvidia. I feel like the drivers on team red are just terrible. What sucks is Newegg has a no refund policy on this card, and I ordered it like two weeks before the 1660 ti came out. I probably should have waited and spent the additional $90.
  9. Is there a Google spreadsheet going with R20 scores? I only see the older versions in the OP. First Run: 1260 Second Run: 1242 (Screenshot, didn't have "keep best score" checked.) Core i5 3570K @ 4.322ghz @1.295v (I'll double check what I set in BIOS, then edit this) Noctua NH-D9L w/ 2nd NF-A9 fan 63°C hottest core, 59°C coldest core ASUS Maximus V Gene 1903 BIOS 16gb DDR3 1600 Corsair Air 240 w/ 4x Arctic F12 intake, no exhaust (motherboard chamber)
  10. That's the one! lol thanks!
  11. Just a quick question. Does anyone remember a case fan that had the motor windings around the blades? Basically the motor was inside the fan's surround piece, with a small center spindle containing just bearings. I'm just curious if anyone remembers the brand, or the model, as I can't seem to find any info on Google. I'm not even sure if the fan ever went to market.
  12. Appreciate it. I didn't intend on sounding harsh with the post you quoted. You were right, the project changed completely. I have edited the thread title to reflect this. The following picture is the reason I hold on to random crap! I decided to drive on over to my storage unit and check out stuff. Turns out I was able to find an AC to Molex power supply, a molex to SATA adapter, a thinner more flexible eSATA cable, as well as an eSATA to SATA adapter! (Thin eSATA not pictured) Here's where I'm at. The additional plastic piece was hacked up from a mod part for an Xbox 360. It's a part of the ghost case kit for the 360. This is a work in progress still. I plan on getting some edge trim, or possibly some small silicone/rubber tubing, split, to cover the upper edges of plastic, under the Lexan. I also plan on recutting a piece of Lexan to proper size, as well as Dremeling off the ends of the machine screws on the bottom. I'm getting there!
  13. There's no need to be snarky. It's not a solution to my original post, it's just a cool idea I had suggested in my second post. It serves no purpose, other than to see the internals, just as a window on the side of a case serves no purpose, other than to see inside. My goal may have changed from the original post, and for that, you are correct. If I'm gonna have the bare drive sitting on the desk, why not do something different? And with the way I have the piece of Lexan mounted, I don't have to hack up the top. I was able to pick up some translucent silicone feet, but I had to double stack them, as the two-inch screws going through to the bottom stick out too far. I can either grab my Dremel and shorten the screws, or get some bigger feet, as it looks bad doubled up. The sheets of Lexan were just under $4 each, and they are 8"x10" pieces. I believe they are .093" thick, but don't quote me on that. I bought two just in case. I may have spent about 8$ on some baggies of machine screws and washers. I might have an AC to Molex adapter in my storage unit in my pile of miscellaneous cables, and I might have a molex to SATA adapter in there as well from a retail drive many years ago. The only thing I might not have is a SATA to eSATA, but those can be had for cheap. I may want to find some rubber edge trim or something, as dust getting in the drive may be a concern.
  14. I'm not spending $41 on that. That's ridiculous, as I mentioned in my original post. Anyways, this is where I'm at. My solution for hanging the center metal spindle doesn't work. I'll be recutting a new piece of Lexan for the top, and I have a clear piece of plastic originally designed for customizing Xbox 360's on the way from Amazon.
  15. My ASUS motherboard has eSATA, so I can just pick up an eSATA to SATA cable off Amazon. Then I'll have to find someway to power it. That's probably what I'll have to do. I disassembled the drive, and the magnetic piece is indeed suspended from the top case. But now I really want to build a clear Plexi top for the drive, to show off the internals. I could always dremel out the metal piece, paint it black, then glue it to the underside of the plexi panel.
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