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crumbworks

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About crumbworks

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    Junior Member

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    Male
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    Ontario

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  1. The issue turned out to be an odd incompatibility between my phone and the headset. When I paired that headset with 3 other people's phones, the mic portion worked perfectly fine and it was issue-free. They only ran me $9 so I bought a skullcandy pair of on-ear bluetooth headphones for $25 and use those instead. No issues there.
  2. Thanks again Enderman! I love it! (this was before I swapped out the Enter and Space to achieve white keycap uniformity)
  3. Nothing wrong with recommending Corsair -- I love their products! I saw that one too, but I don't like the Cherry MX Speed switches. Is that SE board available with other switches?
  4. For aesthetics, you're right. But my reason for white is because my eyes don't track well on black keyboards, so it's no issue at all.
  5. Holy crap that may be the winner. It checks all my boxes, and I like Ducky. I don't care about black on the bottom lol. When am I ever looking at the bottom of my keyboard?
  6. The ways my eyes work, black writing on white backgrounds is easier. It's how my eyes operate (I don't have great low-light vision) and it's also why "night mode" sites are hell to read. It's also why despite every other aspect of my rig being black (as is the norm these days), my keyboard is white. It's much easier for me to see and track the keys (when I do happen to look down) Back in the mid 2000s, I got a basic wired PS/2 keyboard. A simple full-sized white membrane keyboard for $10.99. No extra buttons like power, sleep, browser, etc. Nothing fancy --- no bells, no whistles. It did the trick, so went back and bought 2 backups (I mean, $11 is nothing). This is back when finding peripherals in white/beige was still easy. Fast forward to 2019, and the last of those keyboards is starting to give out a bit... and of course, nothing is white/beige anymore. I want to look into a mechanical keyboard to replace it (preferably with tactile non-clicky switches like MX Browns, or the equivalent) but I'm looking for it to be: White Full size (no mini / 90% / tenkeyless) Standard key layout (as in, takes no liberties with key placement or size from the normal layout) A backlight is entirely optional (if its white, I likely won't need it as I always have plenty of lights on) Preferably with as little fancy "stuff" as possible -- I don't need programmable macro keys, USB charging ports, or any "gamer" features I'd be okay with volume up / down / mute.... but even that I can easily go without What can you recommend? Please and thank you!
  7. Thanks all for the info! I opened up Speccy and the motherboard tab does in fact say "Chipset Model: GM965" so that answers that.
  8. Heya! I have a Toshiba laptop from 2007. Still works great almost 12 years later, no jokes The only issue is the RAM -- it's running Windows 7 64-bit and frankly 2GB is now pathetic (2 tabs in Chrome + Excel + VLC, and I'm over 90% util lol). Plus I can tell it's utilizing virtual memory a ton. It came with 1 GB (two sticks x 512 MB) which I swapped to 2 GB (2 x 1GB) in 2011. The original spec sheet said: 1GB (2 x 512 MB) DDR2 PC2-5300 (5-5-5-15) Maximum RAM: 2GB Is there something hardware-side that restricts it to 2 gigs, or is that bogus and I can pop it to 4 or more? I know 32-bit can do up to 4GB and 64-bit can do up to 128 GB, but is there anything hardware-wise holding it back?
  9. Hey all. I got Bluetooth headphones recently and I am having an odd issue. The audio quality for music is great (YouTube, my song collection, etc)... but when I place or receive a call, there is a deafeningly loud horn-like crackly buzzing noise the moment I hit the call button, or the moment I accept an incoming call, and it continues into the call with this noise instead of the person's voice -- and the other person hears it too on their end of the call, saying it was very loud like a constant "crackling boat horn". Things to note: - I contacted the seller, they thought it was a bad mic so sent me a replacement... same thing on 2nd pair - I then paired the replacement with a co-worker's phone and it worked fine, so it seems isolated to my device - I've had a Samsung bluetooth headset since 2010 (hm1100) and it works fine for phone calls on my old smartphone and this one Things I tried before contacting seller:- unpairing and re-pairing- turning it off and back on- turning my phone off and back on - turning on hearing aid compatibility mode (suggestion I found online)- on the 3rd try turning the headphones off and back on, it worked (I could have a conversation using it), but on attempts 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 onward it was just that awful horn-like static madness - I tried it with Google Hangouts and it didn't make the weird noise.... but it was a one-way convo. the person on the other end could hear me well, but I couldn't hear them in my ears Any idea why this may be? The headset has like a zillion reviews on Amazon.ca and no one else mentions this.... plus the fact it works fine on my co-worker's phone means the product itself is likely fine Moto X 2nd Gen running Android 6.0Thanks all!
  10. "Lossless Audio" section of site. One album's description says Quality: 974 kbps / 44.1kHz / 2 channels Source: CDEncoder: FLAC 1.2.1Size: 446.57 MB Another says: Year: 2013 Source: CDDAR.Date: 05-29-2013 Grabber: EAC SecureS.Date: 05-22-2013 Encoder: FLAC 1.2.1 LosslessQuality: 860 kbps Avg 44.1kHz 2 channels
  11. Hey all I'm new to the world of "better audio" in that I just got a DAC... a few hours ago! I wholeheartedly admit I don't have the best hearing, but I am wondering if anyone has tips to get the most of my audio experience? What I have: Old Audio Solution: Onboard Audio (Realtek chip on a 7 year old Gigabyte mobo, well before they started having the audio 'electrically separated' etc) New Audio Solution: FiiO E10K USB DAC Speakers: Meh, just your standard Logitech Z523 2.1 system (40 watts) Headphones: Sennheiser HD 428 Most of my music: either the absolute basics (128 kbps or 192 kbps MP3s, some 320 kbps VBR MP3s) Some of my music: FLAC ~1040 kbps Settings tweaked: - Go to Playback Devices in Win 7 settings, select the DAC (SPDIF Interface / FiiO USB DAC-E10), Properties, checked all 4 'Sample Rates' and set Default Format from "CD Quality" to "2-channel, 24 bit, 44100 Hz (Studio Quality)" and - Downloaded Foobar and the WASAPI output API, and set the program's output to WASAPI (event): SPDIF Interface (FiiO USB DAC-E10) as I was told this lets it "send out the signal bit-perfect" and disables Win' ability to interfere Test I've done (with headphones) From Most basic use case (my 128 kbps MP3s, no WASAPI in plain ol' Winamp, through my desktop's front audio on Realtek's sound chipset) to A better use case, I think? (1040 kbps FLAC of the same song, played in Foobar with WASAPI enabled, plugged into headphone amp port of the DAC) There is a difference, I guess? It's not by much, if even perceivable. Is it my sub-par hearing, the files, my headphones, or are there other things I'm missing? Consider me a complete audio noob. Thank ya! Chris
  12. It wasn't display related. I ended up removing all her "accounts" (Google, Whatsapp, Skype, etc) and re-adding them, and that did the trick. Something glitched and that's the only thing that fixed it up.
  13. I'm trying to fix my mother's Android phone (Nexus 5 with Android 6.0.1) Half a dozen contacts are showing up twice but they are NOT duplicates -- meaning: - if I highlight one of them to select it, it highlights both lines - it detects I'm only highlighting 1 entry (says so at the top), even though it has a checkmark on both - there's no "merge" button because, as I said, it detects it's a single entry I'm highlighting, not 2+ (it's simply listing it twice) - It only shows the merge icon up top if I select a DIFFERENT contact along with "Marc" (using example below), because then it realizes two are being selected - I even exported the Vcard and it also shows the entries only once - Same thing on Contacts via computer -- the entry is singular - Yet her phone shows those particular people on two lines - Any tips / suggestions? I've crashed Contacts app, cleared cache, rebooted phone, etc. See screenshot
  14. Right off the bat, I know the vast majority of people do not auto-hide the taskbar... but I do and I always have, since Windows 98. For the past 8-10 months, Chrome has been broken and constantly goes on top and won't let me bring up the taskbar with the mouse. It only happens in Chrome. I can alt-tab to any other application and the taskbar will come up just fine. - It's not just my desktop (happens on my laptop too) -- both are Win 7 x64 - Seems to even happen in a fresh install of Windows - It's only Chrome, as far as I can tell I've tried tons of things from Google searches (adding flags to the shortcut link, changing compatibility modes, turning off and back on some Chrome settings, turning off auto-hide and back on, reinstalling Chrome, etc) to no avail. The only temporary "fix" I've found is to unmaximize Chrome, bring up the taskbar, move my mouse to let it auto-hide (aka slide back down), then re-maximize Chrome. This only fixes it for maybe 10-15 minutes of general use, then same thing. Helpppppppppppppppppppp.... P.S. If I maximize a YouTube video and then un-maximize, it always happens. That is one thing that often triggers it.
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