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Kejsare102

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About Kejsare102

  • Birthday Aug 07, 1996

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sweden
  • Biography
    Sup.
  • Occupation
    OSS Technician / VC Coordinator
  • Member title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.3GHz
  • Motherboard
    ASUS SABERTOOTH Z170 MARK 1
  • RAM
    Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB DDR4
  • GPU
    ASUS ROG STRIX GeForce GTX 1080 OC
  • Case
    Enthoo Evolv ATX - Anthracite Gray
  • Storage
    Samsung 950 Pro 512GB M.2 / WD Black 2TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750W
  • Display(s)
    Acer Predator XB1
  • Cooling
    Corsair Hydro H100i GTX
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Shine 3 YYY - MX Blues
  • Mouse
    SS Rival
  • Sound
    Sennheiser RS 185
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64bit

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Kejsare102's Achievements

  1. Hey, I'm currently trying to write a script to launch Internet Explorer as a different user, using variables from an inputbox as username and password. When running the script the GUI runs just fine, you can input your credentials. And they are successfully saved to the variables, however the RunAs command doesn't work at all. I'm not receiving any error messages at all, internet explorer just doesn't start. Anyone with some experience that can help out? See script below: #SingleInstance force Gui, New Gui, Add, Text,, Username Gui, Add, Edit, vUsername Gui, Add, Text,, Password Gui, Add, Edit, Password vPassword Gui, Add, Button, Default gOK, OK Gui, Show return OK: Gui, Submit ;MsgBox %Username% and %Password% return RunAs,%Username%,%Password% RunWait, iexplore.exe return
  2. The 192kHz option is listed as a potential solution on Netflix's website. I did however just realize that DTS was checked as a supported format, which I missed before... Simply unchecking it resolved the issue. I cannot thank you enough for the tip lmao
  3. I have this very weird issue with my Netflix App on Windows 10. I'm using a pair of Sennheiser RS185's connected via Optical cable to my Sabertooth Z170 Mark 1. Works great literally everywhere except for in the Netflix app. When i play a video in the app a very loud click noise can be heard for a brief moment, and then nothing. After this click noise it also kills all audio playing in Chrome and makes all video playing super choppy until I refresh the tab. I have tried done all the basic troubleshooting. Like: Reinstall Realtek drive. Tried both from ASUS and directly from Realtek. No difference Made sure everything is un-muted Changed default format for the Realtek device to 192000Hz Studio Quality If I use a regular headset connected via AUX the audio works just fine in the app. Any possible solutions would be greatly appreciated. I'm about to lose my mind....
  4. Yeah, generate a barcode with some info that when scanned can launch a .bat file. I guess some custom software is needed. Sadly I only know Powershell, and I'm not sure I can do it with that.
  5. Heyo! I work in IT for a company that basically hires new people every single week. We have to install a loadset and configure a computer for each new hire, and since there's a whole lot of things that needs to be done on each computer, this often takes up a lot of time. Basically, what I'm wondering is if it's possible to launch a .bat file automatically by scanning a barcode with a barcode scanner connected to the PC? Any information regarding this would be greatly appreciated!
  6. Doesn't work. OS was installed from a USB. Whenever I try to reset/repair it gets stuck on a loading screen. I have to restart it and then it undos all changes. It's a command recommended by Microsoft Support to re-install Store apps, since that sometimes causes this issue. It's a fresh install. No upgrade.
  7. For the last couple of weeks my start button hasn't worked at all. Whenever I click the start menu button or press the window key, the loading cursor pops up for a couple seconds, but nothing happens. I've found multiple "fixes" on this forum, but nothing works except for creating a new profile. Which I don't want to do unless there is some way to migrate data and settings to another user profile. I have a lot of files and programs bound to my user profile that I do not want to lose. "Fixes" that I have tried so far: sfc /scannow: Returns error message "Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files but was unable to fix some of them." Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth: Last command returns error code 0x800f081f, the source files could not be found. Get-AppXPackage -AllUsers |Where-Object {$_.InstallLocation -like "*SystemApps*"} | Foreach {Add-AppxPackage -DisableDevelopmentMode -Register "$($_.InstallLocation)\AppXManifest.xml"} in Powershell: Returns an insane amount of errors, nothing seems to work here. Is this caused by some third-party software? I have put this issue on hold for the past weeks, but it is awful not being able to quickly search for/open applications. Surely there must be some way to fix this?
  8. That sucks. Then I'll have to spraypaint the Strix cooler then. A graphics card?
  9. So, it's time to build myself a new computer, since my current one is starting to get a bit old. I've decided to go with a simple, grey color scheme, but I'm gonna need some help finding parts that fits in. The parts that I have already decided on buying are: Motherboard: Sabertooth Z170 Mark 1 CPU: i7 6700k Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolve Anthracite Grey RAM: Dominator Platinum 16GB(4x4GB) GPU: GTX 980TI, haven't decided which one yet though. I was thinking about getting the Strix, but it's not grey, so I'd rather skip that. Is there a grey one currently available? I do not want one with a reference cooler. PSU: Haven't decided here. All I know so far is that I want a fully modular one, preferably a Corsair, Be Quiet or EVGA one so that I won't have to sleeve the cables myself. CPU Cooling: I was thinking about just getting a nice air cooler until I can get a proper custom loop, but I might just go for the H100i GTX instead and save a bunch of money and time. If there are any other grey air coolers or closed loops that'd be nice, though. Those should be all the components where the color actually matter. Basically what I need help finding is a 980ti with a grey aftermarket cooler, a grey fully modular PSU and a CPU Cooler. Any help is appreciated!
  10. The thing is, I don't have many startup and background programs. At least not that I know of. It's basically just Steam and Skype that's open.
  11. I have 64 bit Windows 7 Ultimate, so there shouldn't be a problem with windows not being able to handle 8 GB. Especially not since it's worked perfect in the past. I can't test the stick in another PC, unfortunately. If it's a virus or a memory leak, it's something that doesn't show up in the Processes tab, because the memory usage doesn't really add up.
  12. So, about 8 months ago I got two new 4GB RAM sticks, for a total of 8 GB. Everything has worked perfectly until a couple of days ago. BIOS and Task Manager still recognizes and says I have 8 GB of RAM, but it says that 4GB of it is always in use. This is what the Task Manager tells me: http://puu.sh/gQuuw/699c90e3c1.png Task manager and BIOS says 8GB is recognized, but using some Life is Strange hardware detection thing it only detects 4GB, as you can see here: http://puu.sh/gQuDF/35198c31a2.jpg This is what it says in RamMap: http://puu.sh/gQuVe/f9cd05ddfb.png Is this a common sign of a faulty RAM stick, or could this be caused by something like a virus? My computer is choppy as hell now, and it's incredibly annoying, so I'd be very grateful for any help! Thanks.
  13. Yeah, I actually have to use ad-hoc. That's the entire point of the assignment. We have multiple different separate networks in my school that we could use, but we aren't allowed to.
  14. The thing is, this particular problem isn't part of the homework, at all. If we ask our teacher for any help during these assignment, we basically instantly lose our chance to get the highest possible grade, and I don't want to take that risk. We are allowed to look for help on forums and such, though, which is why I came here.
  15. I have an assignment in school where I'm supposed to set up a standard Ad Hoc network between three laptops. Two of the laptops are running Windows 8.1 Pro, and the third one is running Windows 7 Enterprise. I'm supposed to set up the Ad Hoc on one of the laptops with 8.1 Pro, and then connect to it with the other two. Since Microsoft for some reason decided to remove the Set Up Ad-Hoc option from the Network Settings in Windows 8, I had to do it from CMD. The commands I used were: netsh wlan set hostednetwork mode=allow ssid=<enter_network_name_here> key=<enter_password_here> netsh wlan start hostednetwork Everything works when starting the Ad Hoc, and there doesn't seem to be any problems, but when you start trying to have the laptops communicate with each other over the network things fuck up. When trying to ping the other computers something fucks up, and the results are incredibly inconsistent. One minute pinging all the computers work just fine, and I get responses quickly, but then the other minute, one of the comuters is completely unreachable and the connection only works between two of the computers. When the network is in this inconsistent state, there is no way I can set up any sort of file transfer system, and I can't finish the assignment. It's annoying as hell, and I really have no clue what's wrong. Can someone help me out here?
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