NJMevec

So, to anybody in the future who stumbles on this thread: Keychron K10. Apparently I'm just blind and have missed this board on their website for the last week or so. Time to do more research on switches/mods...

I'm looking to do custom, I've found a couple 85% wireless barebones kit which retains numpad, but losing insert/delete/page up etc is unfortunate. I've seen some 100% wireless barebones kits, but the sites/companies just sketch me out. I guess I could do a 75% to retain arrow keys and such, and then do an external numpad. I'm one of the odd few who prefer 100% keyboards I guess.

I'm trying to do a custom full sized wireless mechanical keyboard. That way I can do the wireless charging built in, and still have my number pad, and still have my clicky switches. The issue? I can't seem to find any 100% sized wireless boards/cases. Does anybody have recommendations on where to look or product recommendations?

Also doesn't seem hardware related, tested on my brother's PC last night and worked fine. Reboot fixes the problem for about an hour or so then it starts back up again

Because all 3 drives were system drives at one point, so they were partitioned with system reserve etc. for Windows. Deleted all partitions and reformated to true size.

Also, "Name not Available" isn't showing up as a program, it's an audio device that appears and disappears in a fraction of a second. Completely formatted all 3 drives in my system and reinstalled Windows fresh over top

Literally every input, besides my Modi for my Schiit stack, is disabled. Windows 10 (just did a fresh install yesterday due to this problem) keeps trying to play sound through a device named "Name Not Available". It appears and disappears so quickly I can't uninstall it and it cuts the audio out from my headphones. The Modi is my default sound option as well. Totally up to date on windows updates too.

Based on what I’ve seen the improvements won’t be monumental but for what I use my PC for a 3900X is better than anything from Team Blue currently. I won’t mind losing roughly 5% performance in games when the multi core is so much better. So therefore any improvement on the 3900X just makes Team Red a better option. Just curious as to people’s opinions in if it’s worth ditching a 1700X already. I usually do upgrades every 3 years on graphics card full system every 6-8 from initial purchase of motherboard and CPU

I mean 5 months this year after the 4900X launch

Currently rocking a 1700X with an H100i V2 at 3.8GHz and 1.38V and 16GB of G.Skill TridentZ RGB RAM at 2933 16-16-16-36 at 1.35V (couldn’t OC either more without system crashes at listed voltages). Could I squeeze more out of the overlocks? Sure. Synthetic load hits max at 72*C after running for 30 minutes and didn’t increase across a 2 hour long stress test. Don’t really want to get higher thermals than that truthfully. 1080Ti isn’t the bottleneck when it comes to gaming, but it’s pretty painfully obvious that the 1700X single core performance is...lacking to say the least. Recently bumped up to 1440p 165Hz on my monitors from super old 60Hz 1080p panels. Sims 4 will frequently drop to 24 FPS, and that’s the worst performing game out of all of my titles oddly enough. Forza Horizon 4 gets between 60-100 FPS, haven’t played tested or benchmarked anything else, but the frame rates will fluctuate noticeably during play as single core processes get tossed at the processor. Should I go for a 4900X this fall (or whenever the silicon starts shipping), or wait for Intel to shrink the die size in the coming years? The 3900X already shows massive performance gains over the 1700X, so the 4900X will probably be even better still if what I’ve seen out of the rumor mill holds true. Use case is mostly gaming with some video editing and Fusion 360/Blender rendering. Team Blue is compelling but it just seems that for the money Team Red is still the best “do all” option. Keep in mind, when I upgrade I’m going custom hard tubing loop with a 420mm top and front for the GPU and CPU, so cooling will be less of a concern.

Yeah from what I've read fittings are fittings are fittings once you get to a certain quality threshold. I like the look of the Torque, especially since I can do black and silver like the rest of the case theme. As far new system goes, I would basically reuse the CPU block assuming it's the same bracket, reuse pump/res/rads, and bend up new tubing as required. So really only thing I'd need to rebuy would be a GPU block and some fresh tubing, so maybe $300 worth of stuff. Like your system, super clean! Makes me want to pull the trigger now even if it's not the smartest decision lmao

So I did the math, the heat gun, acrylic tubing, saw, etc. etc. plus all of the fittings, tubings, would be about $1,500. I would go EK blocks for my 1700X and my 1080 Ti Strix, would love to do Corsair for iCUE compatibility with the fans I'd be snagging, but that's life I guess. The other option is wait, planning on doing a new rig potentially next tax season, "best" Ryzen CPU (4900X presumably if they keep the naming scheme the same), same for GPU on team green (3080 Ti?). Would also probably go with an Asus board with built in watercooling as well. My case and radiator set up would not change, it would be the edition of VRM cooling on the motherboard otherwise my tubing could probably stay the same, just new blocks. Clear coolant, no dyes. Pull the trigger now (now should read mid June truthfully) or should I wait until the new rig? Currently the 1080 Ti is air cooled and the 1700X has a Corsair H100i, 1080 Ti can't hold a stable OC even +50 on boost or core at any voltage or power draw limit, and the 1700X is stable at 3.8GHz with 1.35V for about 73*C under synthetic load, could push further but giving up thermals that I don't feel like doing. Won't see any huge decreases in thermals, mostly a looks thing whereas the new hardware hopefully isn't a total loss on the silicone lottery and the loop would actually be utilized. Now on to questions about the loop, see if it's good or if I should do anything different here. Would be first custom loop, so mostly been doing research by the seat of my pants. Radiators: 2x Corsair Hydro X XR5 420mm (30mm thick) Water Pump/Res: ? EK Quantum Kinetic TBE 300 D5 looks nice, but don't need the RGB on it, so really up in the air. Looking at the Watercool Heatkiller 200mm and EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump, preferably 200-300mm to take up empty space on the side of my case Fans: 7x Corsair LL140 RGB fans, 3 front, 3 top, 1 rear. Love the RGB pattern on the fans and Corsair makes good quality fans. Could go MLs but prefer the RGB layout on the LL. Fan Controller: 2x Corsair Commander Pro (just because of the 7th fan, Corsair support recommends not using a dual PWM splitter with the LL140s off 1 hub) with their RGB Fan controller RGB Strips: None, Fans will be enough RGB plus the blocks plus the RAM plus the motherboard Tube Type: 16/12 Acrylic just to get the thicker tubing look and like the look of Acrylic, would go PETG but ambient in summertime of my room is around 80*F without a PC, with the PC running it can get up to 90+ worried about it melting Fittings: EK Torque fittings, black, with the nickel accent rings, EK T-block with drain plug off the bottom radiator, 2x G1/4 temp sensors off both rads to monitor loop temp, EK Fill Port for top of res. Blocks (if current): Corsair XC7 AM4 block with EK 1080 Ti Strix Rev 2 (non-RGB, no sense in $15 extra on a part I'll be swapping down the line that doesn't have iCUE compatibility) and EK Rev 2 backplate Blocks (if upgrade): Corsair XC7 AM4 block (assuming gen 4 Ryzen is still AM4) with Corsair 3080 Ti (or whatever they call it) block and a black backplate from whoever, probably EK With the pump I can't decide D5 PWM or DDC PWM so I can adjust to the flow I need while keeping volume down, not a whole lot of resistance and I'm thinking it'll be about 1.5m in tubing. Pump will be mounted basically in the middle of the PC if combo res/pump, outbound to the GPU, GPU goes with gravity to lowest radiator point with drain plug, other lowest rad point goes to CPU, CPU up to highest rad point, and leftover rad to return on res (if watercooled ASUS board gets thrown in then I would do from bottom rad to VRM, VRM to CPU, then CPU to rad, rad to return). If remote pump the pump would be the lowest point on the whole system, in line with the bottom connectors on the front radiator, drain plug between the rad and the res somewhere under the PSU shroud, otherwise loop config stays same. Pump to GPU, GPU to top rad, top rad to CPU, CPU to lower rad, lower rad to res, res to pump. If you need visuals to understand let me know I can do it up in sketchup at some point tomorrow, probably will be doing that anyway because quarantine boredom. If there's anything I'm missing or parts swapping suggestions let me know. Again, mostly doing this for aesthetics, so I know Corsair may not be the best for the blocks, but they're good value and look nice. Thinking I may nix the RGB on the blocks so there's less cables I need to run around, plus with the number of RGB fans it may be overkill on RGB, if that's the case I'll use EK waterblocks because they're tried and true. With RGB on motherboard and RAM the RGB on the waterblocks would kind of tie the whole system together. Also to note, the current board is an ROG Crosshair VI (no wifi), the only color in the rig is my ASUS AC88 wireless card which is red, and I may paint the heatsink aluminum or matte black since I have the rattlecans to do so. That way everything is all aluminum/silver/gray and black. Currently all my RGBs are white and occasionally will change color with the holidays. Case currently is a Dark Base 900 Pro (black and silver), no 5.25" bays has the extra fan bracket, so I have enough space for a 420mm rad top and front, 140mm on the rear of the case, and two 120mm fans on the bottom on top of the PSU shroud, but only one would realistically be pulling any air and it would be extremely ineffective when it comes to air intake at that. So I would do three 140mm front pulling air in through a radiator, three 140mm exhausting at the top through a radiator, and not sure if I should have the rear fan exhausting or pulling air in as fresh air. Intake could be spinning at a faster rpm than exhausting to keep positive pressure in the case since they're all software controlled. Sorry for the word vomit, kinda just typed everything out as it came to mind with the questions I have regarding custom cooling.

Not to revive a crazy old thread, but I'm painting my Schiit Magni and Modi DAC and Amp atm and would like to use my monitor speakers until the paint dries up enough for me to reassemble everything. The speakers worked just the other day, now they don't. Tried reboot, DTS on/off, unplug monitor and plug back in. Nothing worked. Thinking I may have bad speakers which isn't enough for me to want to RMA the monitor as nothing else is bad about the display. Just a weird bug to deal with. I'd use the internal audio but I don't have the 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter for my HD 650 headphones anymore. If anyone else has any oddball suggestions feel free to chime in!

Seems good thanks for the vote on the Elgato externals. Adds to the already huge amount of good things I've heard!

I remember LTT switched to a new company for their internal one from Elgato. I'm not running GPU in my miniITX streaming PC so I have an open lane for that. Is internal more reliable than external?