Zynch175

IPS would be very good, as I would prefer the better viewing angles, especially as my dad like to come to get me to look stuff up for him, and he just stand at the side. I would settle for a VA panel if if was very good in every other department, but generally IPS would be preferable. Quickly checking review on RTINGS, it looks like it has terrible black uniformity, which I don't want to compromise on.

Hello So my current monitor (Dell U2412M) died on me, which means I need to get a new one. I’ve read a lot on how to choose and what to look for in a monitor, and now I think I’m even more confused than when I began my search. Usage: Gaming, photo editing, general stuff Here are the main things I’m looking for: IPS, with decent black uniformity (I edit astronomy photos, so there is a lot of black) 27” or slightly bigger 1440p (could go 4k, but it’s probably going to be too expensive) 60 Hz + (if possible) USB hub is a big plus, especially if it’s on the left side Budget: Under 400 Eur, but can go a bit over if it is worth it. My GPU is a RX580, with a possible upgrade late this or next year. Any help as to which monitors to look at, would be greatly appreciated.

I tried using gparted, but it doesn't want to load properly, something to do with me having it on an USB. I am also not able to get any CDs at the moment to try that way. So any other ideas?

No, it's the first time I'm hearing about it. I will give it a try.

Hello I recently switched from Windows 10 back to Windows 7 on my PC due to various issues (Wacom drivers, CorelDRAW). After the update I cannot see 1 of my hard drives, the other 2 and the system SSD are completely ok. I cannot acces the drive, as if there was no partition on it, but I can see the drive in Windows drive manager, where it shows as completely empty (but it is not), and it also shows in Hard Disk Sentinel. I tried plugging the drive with an external HDD enclosure into my laptop, where it shows up like usual, but it did not work with my PC for some reason. Any help would be appreciated, as I would like to get my files from that drive, although there is nothing too important on it as it only had about a year more to live. EDIT: And I don't have the laptop with me at the moment to use it to copy the files.

Thanks, I will check how is with the warranty and if it qualifies for replacement.

Hello So my computer (specs below) randomly freezes every now and then. I might be just watching somehing on youtube, browsing the web sitting on the desktop idle or starting up a game. I do not remember if it happened while I was playing any games, but I think not. It usualy happens about once a day. When it happens the pc freezes, still showing the last image, I have to press the reset button to get it working again. I checked event viewer, but I do not see anything as far as I can tell. Due to something else I also reinstalled windows, but it did not help. I have run memtest, and every pass it found a single error during test 7 I think. Could this be the issue? Specs: Mobo: Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P Cpu: AMD FX8350 Gpu: Sapphire Rx 580 nitro+ oc 8G Ram: crucial 2x8G 1600 DDR3 Psu: xfx 550w Storage: samsung 850 evo 250G, WD green 2T No overclocks applied Temps are normal

Thank you, we found a manual on HP website and it had a list of supported cards. We will try to get one of those.

So I am helping a friend whose girlfriend has a problem with wifi on her laptop. It stopped working instantly during the day. As far as we can tell the card is dead, as it doesn't show in device manager and driver reinstal did not help. So now the question is can I just get a new wifi card or is there some limitation as to which one I can use. The laptop is HP Pavilion G6 The one in the laptop is ralink rt5390 And the used ones for 5€ we are looking for are: - Intel 622ANHMW - MIC RT3090 - Azurewave AW-NB159H - Anatel N12075 Could you help me as I do not know if I can just get anyone or do I have to get a specific card.

So I tried changing the setting of my router to the same subnet, but it says that the wan and lan networks cannot be on the same subnet. Attached are the pictures of the wan and lan setup pages of my new router. The Modem (router 1) has the new one set on a static ip. For clarification here are the ip's: Router 2: 192.168.1.74 Modem: 192.168.1.254

I will try it in a few hours when I get home from work, and will post results.

I don't need two networks, and it is actualy causing me problems, so I want to make them into only one network, but am planing on keeping two different wifi's if possible.

Your network map is preety spot on. As to getting a new modem I cannot do that, since it is from the isp and manages the phone line, tv signal and internet (it is basicly a all in one connection), so I have to live with it. I also did some reading as to how I could solve this and I it seems to me, that I need to just set that only my modem assings Ip addresses and disable it on the router. I've tried that, but if I turn dhcp (or whatever the setting is called) off on the router, then I cannot connect to the router, as it stays at getting the ip adress. Am I missing something. I know, that it is somehow possible, since a friend has a similar setup, but he is out of the country, so I cannot ask him.

Yeah it was quite a while ago. And yes you should use mcmyadmin as suggested, it is the best option, I totaly forgot about it.

I think you can use TeamViewer, since I used it with a laptop whose screen was turned off (the lid was shut), as it was strapped to a projector. You can still try it before actually setting up the server.

First thing I have to say is, that I do not have much knowledge of anything networking related. So on my network is currently just the ISP's modem, to which all computers and tv's are connected and has wifi, and I decided to add a router to get a few more ports and get better wifi coverage. What I got is the TP-LINK TL-WR841N. I made a new wifi network and put the channels away from each other. But now I have two different (sub)networks (192.168.1.x and 192.168.0.x), but I would mainly like access to the wireless printer that I have from both (or maybe merge them into one) networks since I have trouble printing drom some PC's right now. How can I do anything like that. EDIT: I would also like to know why is my laptop forgetting the new network, although I have it set to remember and automatically connect. I do not like to type in the password every time I turn the laptop off.

260 shots sounds enough for me on a single pack. Thank you for the info.

I have been considering Eneloop pros, but can anyone approximate how long they are going to last on one charge.

So until now I have been using alkaline batteries for my two flashes (nikon sb700), but I decided it would be time to switch to rechargeables to reduce the cost,since as far as I calculated based on the prices I would get the starting investment back in just a few recharge cycles. I would like to know which brands do you use, what capacities, etc. I would appreciate any recommendations on what to get.

I do not think that he will ever need an i5. I went with an i3, since I will be probably having him use a drawing software like CorelDraw and maybe even AutoCAD to check on my drawing before putting them in production (He runs a additional company on a farm and is building instruments. (the title for this type of company sound weird)) since sometimes he cannot explain how he wants something. Plus the PC will be runing for quite a few years.

It is not prebuilt, a friend built it last time. And I checked the case, since I was not sure if I can put a M-ATX mobo in, and it is even nicely labeled which holes I need to use for standoffs.

So I have to upgrade my dads PC. Currently his PC is 9 years old. He is running an Intel Celeron D, an Asrock mobo, 3Gb of RAM and an Radeon Gpu (I do not know the exact specs.) I want to keep the costs as low as possible, so my plan currently requires me to spend about 195€. My plan to get him is: CPU: Intel I3-6100 MOBO: MSI H110M PRO-VH RAM: Crucial Balistix Sport 4Gb DDR4 PSU: LC Power 480W (I got it bundled with my case, but it is unused) SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 120Gb (My old one) CASE, HDD: His existing stuff. So is my plan OK? The most demanding task will be looking at vector drawing is CorelDraw, the other stuff he will be doing is pretty much browsing the web. The HDD he has currently has a SATA2 connection. I think I can still use it, since SATA3 is backwards compatible. Right? I need an answer pretty fast, since there are only a few more in stock from where I am buying.

I just decided to run OCCT again (to be exact CPU:OCCT) , to see if the ending at 2,8GHz had anything to do with me oppening speedfan and core temp or not. But at about 18 minutes into the benchmark it stopped and reported that it found an error. What does this mean? Is there a problem with the CPU?

It might sound stupid, but did you take off the protective sticker from the cooler.

I have done another stress test using OCCT and I presume my CPU is throttling. Attached is the graph of the clock speed. From the stock 4GHz it was dipping every 20s to 1.4GHz for about 10s, and after about 25 min it went to 2.8GHz. What could be the reason for this, since the temperatures don't go over 58°C on CPU and 50°C on the cores, so it should't be the heat that's the problem. I have never seen it do anything like this, so I am a bit confused. EDIT: The PC just crashed again. This time the screen stayed black, and all I did was plotting some basic graphs for school in octave.