Lauen

Repost: 

My phone (Lumia 925) has build 10586.11 on it according to about info, and it has a bug of sorts, it started saying that I was out of data about two weeks ago, yet I had 3.5 GB left of my 5GB plan. It makes a noise and says I'm out of data even when I'm connected to wifi. Turning off mobile data completely stopped it, but when I turn it back on, it's back. The data usage app also only shows 2.27 GB used on cellular right now, now that I've actually used the 5 GB's I have. 

Lower volts equal less power used, but it's not a lot. Higher volt kits reach higher speeds as well, not that it matters a whole lot for system RAM unless you're editing videos all day. 

But the foam mod dont recommended..

And some said it was not advisable and destroys the sound and some did not like it ..

It won't break the headphones, and I think it's reversible if you don't like it. 

As people have already stated, that's probably just the usual Sennheiser "veil". They're lacking some in the high frequencies, as high frequencies really are where most of the detail come from, and it's where one (at least I do) would notice loss of detail first, like those unfortunate times when you want to listen to a song, but all you can find is a low quality one, and you hear tons of weird noises in the high frequencies. 

Get better headphones. Your current audio solution is not lacking as long as it gets loud enough, with no audible sound degradation, in form of hissing, crackling, popping, etc. If you were enjoying everything except for the lack of high frequencies, DT990's are a good open choice.  I've seen a lot of people enjoy the Philips SHP9500. the Fidelio line is also good, tried the X1's once, found them to sound better than my PC360's (essentially HD518's with mic) and better than my Pioneer SE-A1000 (which sound a LOT like HD600's according to some people but I have not had the chance to try them). 

240 hz isn't a thing. If you're talking about that Eizo monitor, it's a 120 hz panel with frame doubling and double backlight blinking. Not worth it. 

Put a pop filter and set it to cardioid mode. It won't pick up much.

pop filter has literally nothing to do with that. Keep it low volume and close to your mouth to compensate for said low volume. THAT helps. Also using a dynamic mic would help even more as they tend not to pick up much background noise in comparison to a condenser. 

At CES this year, Dell has unveiled a new monitor. So far it's only called "Ultrasharp 30", as far as I can tell. 

It's a 30" OLED panel, giving amazing contrast ratios! It's a 4K res, normal 4K, not the cinema 4K. 

There is nothing about what refresh rate it's running, and very few other specs have been revealed, but just it being OLED is enough to make me VERY excited. 

But then... there's the price. Sony supposedly has a monitor of the same sort, but it's going for $18000. 

This goes for $5000. Too expensive for me as of now, but we're finally seeing OLED coming to the.. sort of mainstream. 

It is set to be released by March 31st, this year. 

Windows Central have a good video on it, where they discuss specs that my original article had missed. 400,000:1 contrast ratio. 0.1 ms response time (WOW). 

100% Adobe RGB coverage. Dell have supposedly implemented a workaround for the common OLED pixel burn-in. This has happened on my phone, and it's quite annoying when viewing completely dark things. This workaround is called Pixel Shift, and supposedly moves pixels around? Sounds strange. We will see how this all pans out. 

Source

A lot of people over-exaggerate the effect of soundstage in gaming. Yes it can help, but a bunch of people think getting a headphone with the best soundstage can give you an aimbot in fps games.

 

You can use $3K headphone but if one is shit at aiming, the person is shit nonetheless 

true. soundstage is most noticeable with classic music in my experience 

Why not buy something like DT770? IMO, DT770 stands above HD598 in terms of sound quality

soundstage doe 

snip

I've had 3 pairs of Siberia v2's. All got the same issue after a while, sound in right side stopped working. One did it after 6 months, one did it after a little over a year, and one lasted close to 3 years. 

OP: HyperX Cloud's are much better, get them. I've tried both. HyperX Clouds sound very good, with decent balance. The Siberia V2's sound hollow and are not very detailed. 

Have you tried other headphones from the same device or the same headphones from another device with the same music?

 

It could be caused by debris (such as hair) touching the drivers. Headphones do not require or benefit from break-in.

I think I've debunked break-in. 

You get used to the sound. That's why people think they sound better after "break-in". 

EDIT: to back up my claims: I went from a Sennheiser PC360 to Audio-Technica ATH-M50S. I was very pleased with the bass performance of the M50S in comparison to the PC360's (which are essentially HD5x8 with a mic on the side). I then got Shure SRH440's with 840 pads. Less bass, but more than the PC360s. after using them for a while, everything seems to have more bass, because I then got used to less bass than M50S. And then for a week, I used my Soundmagic PL50's, which have very little bass, and after that everything seemed to have even more bass, because my ears were used to the bass in the PL50's. 

Did you read what I said in relation to what WAS said in Joseph's post? Misinformation is a bitch and we see it all too often in this forum.

 

That said, SSL summed it up perfectly already.

OP said he has Tiamat 7.1's. That's what I was trying to say. And I agree with you about 7.1 in headphones not working. 

EDIT: Misinformation is also caused by not reading the material properly. OP stated in the first line that his current headset is a Tiamat 7.1. 

Ignore Joseph, the Tiamat 7.1 does NOT offer "true 7.1", sadly with how things work in the real world speakers are the only thing that can offer you 7.1. You can throw as many drivers in an earcup as you want but that doesn't make it a "true 7.1".

Which headset do you currently have so that we can recommend an upgrade?

did you read the OP? it says "I'm getting tired of my tiamat 7.1"

Meh. Case is Ok 

WAIT WHAT THE FUCK 17.3 4k?

Are we finally get 17 inch screens above 1080p???

Tried a 15.6" laptop with a 3200x1800 res once. Pretty sexy. It was a rebranded MSI GS60 Pro 3K I think. 

I have no idea if I'm affected by this, as my bootloader and Elementary OS install is on another SSD. Haven't booted it up in a while tho, maybe it's time to do that. 

Hm, cheaper than I remember.

http://store.microsonic-inc.com/TempletImpressionCartridge.aspx

http://www.earplugstore.com/diyimpkit.html

 

I'd recommend getting a biting block as well.

I think you misunderstood my original post. This is not what I'm looking for, I'm looking for those that you can attach straight to almost any pair of IEMs, for a better seal than your usual silicone flange tips. I'm too poor for CIEMs. 

you'll get better 3d audio from a pair of open stereo headphones with larger better drivers rather than multiple small lower quality drivers.

driver size doesn't have much to do with audio quality. 

OP: 7.1 headphones don't work. I've tried the Tiamat 7.1 with 7.1 input and it still sounded like muddy farts. If you want surround, get actual surround speakers. A good set of open headphones will get you much further than any 7.1 headset and virtual surround. Sennheiser HD558 are a great start to the world of good audio for most people, and they're open and have a wide soundstage. 

about amps and dacs: if your motherboard works properly (no audible hissing, crackling, popping) and gets loud enough, you don't need to upgrade. 

The kit is around 20-30 bucks and can be dangerous doing it yourself. I rather pay an audiologist to get it done, or protip if you're a Costco member they do free ear impressions for hearing aids.

link pls? I'm in Norway so no Costco here but if needed, I'll go to an audiologist. 

Hey guys. I'm trying to find the do it yourself earmolds for IEM's, but I'm having a bit of an issue finding any, even on amazon.

Help please? name or link to amazon page? 

Normally I do not have a high volume on my speakers while recordings. So I should try both I guess. Dynamic microphone (Shure SM58, Rode NT1-A or Samson Q7) or a shotgun microphone (e.g. Rode NTG-1) Lauren recommended. With which one should I go first?

I think the SM58 will be the cheapest option, apart from the Samson, try that first. also, please use the quote function when replying to people. It makes it easier for us to know if you've replied or not. 

Thanks Lauen and Jettt for your help. 

 

Lauen you explained really well how the different types of microphones are working. So Shotgun Mic seems to be the best solution. What would be the best position on my desk? I have linear 70-80 cm to the middle of my monitor and speakers, which are left and right of it. They are placed at a distance of 100 cm to each other, 50 cm from the middle of monitor. I hope, I explained well. Where would you place the mic?

I'd place the mic right on top of the monitor you're facing, as stated earlier, pointed directly at your mouth. You could experiment with how close it needs to be. 

Also Jettt does have a good point, a dynamic mic (Shure SM58 is absolutely fantastic and doesn't cost a lot, they're used a LOT for live vocals) would be good as they do need to be fairly close to ones mouth to pick up anything. I've seen people record vocals with a Shure SM7b (sorta expensive) while listening to the music they're recording the vocals for over speakers in the same room. Sure, the mic may pick up some of it but as Jettt said, dynamics have a short pickup pattern. 

Yes the are the lg g430, sorry about that I found that typing "enable_voice 1" in the console seemed to fix it. Thanks anyway.

LG is not Logitech. LG is LG. 

Any mouse with perfect tracking would be good. If there's a certain shape / size you enjoy, Zowie might have something that fits you. Zowie mice use heavy switches, so if you like soft switches (like Razers and stuff), you probably don't want those. Most mice use Omron switches, which are the lighter kind. 

I'm personally looking at the Mionix Avior 7000 because I like ambidextrous shapes and functional buttons on both sides. Too used to my Sensei Pro, where I have page up and page down (or whatever I want) on the right side, and back and forwards on the left side). 

Lots of people like the FinalMouse too. Really light, Omron switches, perfect tracking (seriously who wouldn't want perfect tracking), no drivers required which means fast and easy setup. 

Ultimately, this question is extremely difficult to answer without more information.  Obviously, if price is no object, you can buy a high end set of cans that can do a lot of things, or buy several pairs for the specific needs.  Bass heads will not enjoy neutral sounding headsets like the AKG K240 MK II or the Audio Technica ATH-M40x sets.  On the other hand, naturalists will find the Sennheiser DJ series and Audio Technica ATH-M50x sets unacceptable.  Good middle grounds are few and far between, especially in the lower price brackets (in my experience, you have to spend a lot more money for those kinds of cans).

 

I'm more of the latter buyer, having multiple sets of headsets for different purposes (I own about 6 different sets of headsets/earbuds for different purposes)

 

AMP/DAC wise, unless the OP is planning to throw a set of 600 ohm cans at their device, a decent aftermarket soundcard/amp is probably more than enough to meet his needs, IMHO.

neutral - M40X? no. bass and highs are boosted. 

You have a good point about buying several headphones, it's nice to have some that are good for certain things. It's also nice to have one all-rounder though. 

600 ohm cans? need amp? You clearly haven't read the impedance ballad by creatip123: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/290749-the-impedance-ballad-image-heavy/