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Everything posted by David1521

  1. Found out why, uninstalled the windows update and it worked:
  2. It won't let me overclock my cpu past 3.8ghz on one core, apparently it only overclocks when using the bus and not the multiplier, I tried from 1.2 volts to 1.35 volts and everytime both hwmonitor and cpu z say it's running at 3.6 on 5 cores a 3.8 on one core, even though I set my multiplier to 39 on all cores and I also tried 40 on all cores. I have a Asus rampage v edition 10 mobo.... and a h115i corsair liquid cooler.... this shouldn't happen.
  3. If it's less than a 10 to 15 frame difference then I'll wait a couple more generations.
  4. https://wccftech.com/intel-9th-gen-core-i9-9900k-z390-and-core-i9-9980xe-x299-cpus-full-family-announced/ Intel will be releasing the i9-9900X in about a month, so that's what I'm referring to.
  5. I currently have a gtx 1080 and an i7 6800k with a 1440p 144hz monitor, I recently bought the rtx 2080 ti zotac amp (managed to snag it at MSRP while it was available to pre order on amazon before stock arrived for a couple hours). I was wondering if my current cpu the i7 6800k will bottleneck the rtx 2080 ti and if I upgrade to one of the other cpus if I'll see more than a 10 frame difference in games while streaming. If not I think I'll just wait a couple more generations. Thoughts? UPDATE: It won't let me overclock my cpu past 3.8ghz on one core, apparently it only overclocks when using the bus and not the multiplier, I tried from 1.2 volts to 1.35 volts and everytime both hwmonitor and cpu z say it's running at 3.6 on 5 cores a 3.8 on one core, even though I set my multiplier to 39 on all cores and I also tried 40 on all cores. I have a Asus rampage v edition 10 mobo.... and a h115i corsair liquid cooler.... this shouldn't happen.
  6. Thank you, I will reply with my framerate once I get home from work.
  7. Damn, you're right, what if I ran it with lower settings, no post processing and low shadows? Maybe I can just run it at low settings until the 1180 is released?
  8. I have an i7 6800k and a gtx 1080, I already have one Samsung CHG70 32 inch 16:9 monitor and I was wondering if I got 2 more, what kind of framerate could I expect using nvidia surround running all 3 with the game?
  9. Nevermind they don't run android so I can't use my tidal or spotify playlists... wtf... I have the shure 846s but just want a better dap than the shitty one on my note 8 and I don't want to have to strap anything to my phone, I want it separate and I want the best one available. The best one I can find is the onkyo DP-X1A within those conditions, but it's only 500 dollars... and it's old it's from 2016 and runs android 5.1.1. Is there anything newer and better out? There's also the fiio x7 but it's made in china...
  10. Just want to ask before I accidently spend 100 dollar less or more.
  11. I just got my Shure 846's and they sound great but not as perfect as the reviews indicated, and definitely not better than my Audeze iSINE 20 but I knew that going in since they're smaller, and noise isolating. Which is what I wanted and they do quite well. I do Not want to use an attachment dac and amp because I currently use the oppo HA-2 along with an iphone 6 but it's very inconvenient to carry around both and recharge both all the time and deal with apple constantly asking me to reverify my apple id. I have a note 8 as well, but apparently with any android smartphone with usb type c using a specifically advertised usb c to micro usb for dac otg cable it will work, but it will also drain my phone's battery and charge the dac/amp at the same time which is annoying and I googled it and there's no fix yet. And I don't feel like waiting around for something likely to never be fixed because there is such a small demand because I'm in such a small demographic of specific kind of audiophiles, ie I travel a lot. So I'm looking at portable music players, that would best fit both the shure 846's and the audeze iSINE20, also preferably the oppo pm-3s. I have found 2 so far that I like, I'd like to keep the price under $1500, I want something that works specifically with downloaded songs on both Tidal and Spotify that sounds the best. Astell&Kern AK240 @1279 on amazon and the Onkyo DP-X1A at 488.97 on amazon. What I really want to know is whether or not astell&kern players in that price range are mere snake oil or are actually noticably better.
  12. Alright I just contacted the seller, we'll see what they say. Thank you!
  13. I just got a LG OLED E7. I have one dead pixel near the top right hand corner of my screen that I noticed after the first day of use, and because when I was on these forums and saw people had dead pixels I wanted to check mine, (I got it yesterday). Seeing as I only have one dead pixel though and the pixel is always just always black, maybe it's not so bad and if I can get over my OCD about it? Granted I bought it brand new "factory sealed" off of eBay from a reputable seller with 800+ reviews and 100% review ratings. I bought a warranty for it through Assurant Protection Plan for 2 years though, so my question is, since, at my viewing distance of about 7 feet I can't notice it at all on normal/darker images and only if I'm looking really really hard for it on really bright images, should I call in the warranty? Contact the seller? Contact LG? Or should I wait for a year and a half and call in the warranty then? What should I do? And if I do get a replacement is it likely to have dead pixels too?It's just really annoying since my it's less than a day old and already has a dead pixel. Would LG, or my warranty, or ebay, front me a new TV before having to return the old one or not? Would I have to send it back first and then wait for the replacement? This is the terms and conditions for my Assurant protection plan. https://marketplaceqa.assurantprotectionplans.com/assurant---terms-and-conditions-v7 "Advanced Exchange Service Option - If We determine Your Product is eligible for the Advanced Exchange Service Option, at Our sole discretion, We will provide You with a new or refurbished product of like kind and quality upon determining a covered failure on Your original Product. Upon dispatch of service, We may collect an unrecovered equipment fee of up to $550 and ask You to send Us Your originally covered Product. A box will be shipped to You with a pre-paid postage label to deliver Your original Product back to Us. Upon receipt of Your originally covered Product, We will refund the unrecovered equipment fee to You in full. If You do not return Your originally covered Product within 10 days after receipt of Your replacement product, the unrecovered equipment fee will not be refunded to You. "
  14. Ok so that accounts for 35 gigs of the 88 missing. Where's the remaining 53 gigs? Btw I updated my post to include what you asked for.
  15. First of all I cleared all my restore points I only had 4.6 gigabytes, I ran Disk Cleanup and clicked cleanup system files and deleted everything over a gig. I also ran CCleaner and deleted a lot of temporary files through that. I went to local disk and clicked show hidden folders and files, and I right clicked and clicked properties on each of those folders and added up the total, it was just under 240 gigabytes. My local disk says that it has 147 gigabytes free of 475. I have a Samsung 950 pro m.2 drive so I really don't want to have to buy a 1 tb one in the near future. I deleted all the games that I don't play often off of it as well. 475-147 is 328, NOT 240 like it should be. So I looked it up online and on a form somewhere they were told to install TreeSize which is a program that's free for 30 days, to see where all the files are that are taking up storage. So I did that, and here is a screenshot of it. I looked through everything and this is the only suspicious data that I see, but it still doesn't account for the entire 88 gigs (240-328) missing. Do I have a virus? I have malwarebytes pro and antiexploit malware bytes and kaspersky antivirus and I'm running an i7 6800k and gtx 1080 with 64 gigs of ram and an Asus Rampage 5 extreme edition 10 mobo with all drivers installed and a password protected UEFI bios, and 64 gigs of ram. I shouldn't have a virus right? But what other explanation is there for that missing data? Here is how much it says when I click properties on my explorer and see how much data is being used, but when I go into Drive C and right click on each folder and click properties and add up all the folder sizes it equals just under 240 gigs:
  16. Ok thank you, I guess I will just have to get an external enclosure.
  17. I had bad experience with cloning software in the past, can you suggest one that actually works well?
  18. Ok but what do I put on the new sshd so it will work once it's in?
  19. So I googled it and no one has currently done this yet and posted it online that I can find. Firstly, I preordered the Xbox One X so I could play games with my friends who can't afford a gaming PC, so don't dis on why I have one please. I bought a seagate 2tb 2.5 inch sshd firecuda, and am wanting to swap out the current "1tb, more like 776gb" hard drive with this new "2tb" sshd. I have done this on my ps4 pro before because there were instructions online on how to do it. I was hoping someone could tell me what firmware I need to download onto the sshd for the xbox one x before I can swap it in. And where can I find the download? Also, could someone tell me what I am supposed to unscrew to be able to access the hard drive? P.S. I don't want to get an external hard drive because USB 3.0 is slower than Sata III.