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Kruziik_Kel

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About Kruziik_Kel

  • Birthday Nov 07, 1996

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Scotland
  • Interests
    Music, Technology, Chemistry
  • Occupation
    Student
  • Member title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    Intel i5 3570K @ 4.2GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Maximus V Formula (Z77)
  • RAM
    8 GiB (2x4 GiB) 1600MHz Patriot Viper 3
  • GPU
    MSI Radeon R9 290
  • Case
    NZXT Switch 810
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 (120GB), Western Digital Caviar Black (1TB), Seagate Barracuda (2TB), Samsung Spinpoint 2.5" (640GB)
  • PSU
    Corsair AX760
  • Display(s)
    Asus PB278Q & Asus VG23AH
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-D14
  • Keyboard
    IBM Model M 1391406 (1989)
  • Mouse
    Razer Naga (2012)
  • Sound
    Bayerdynamic DT770 PRO (80Ohm) > FiiO E09K > Asus Xonar DGX
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64bit

Kruziik_Kel's Achievements

  1. Yeah, im considering doing something like pzt did with Pathogen http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/11388-yet-another-sw-810-build-pathogen/ and make a midplate out of an acrylic sheet to keep things looking a bit cleaner Im currently thinking of using these components: 1x XSPC Raystorm 1x XSPC Razor GTX770 1x XSPC D5 Vario + Bitspower D5 Mod Kit 1x Bitspower Z-Multi 250mm 10x Bitspower 7/16"ID 5/8"OD Matt Black Compression fittings 2x 1L Bottles of XSPC EC6 Non Conductive Coolant: Blood red 1x Alphacool NeXXos ST30 240mm (top) 1x Alphacool NeXXos UT60/XT45 240mm (bottom) might even try a Monsta if I think it would work with the midplate idea 4x Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition or if I can get them Black NF-F12s Some Masterkleer 7/16"ID 5/8"OD tubing, clear its sold by the meter how much do you think I would need? most boxed stuff I see is about 3 meters so I was thinking that? and getting most if not all of it from http://www.specialtech.co.uk/ Any changes you would suggest?
  2. You make a good point I think for now ill stick with the switch (I think space would be a little tight at the top of the R4) and if I have the cash ill consider bumping up to something bigger with more radiators put together a rough draft of a loop in the switch opinions?
  3. Yes I have read them just wanted to check how much room id have in the roof because of the tall heatsinks near the top of the board and if anyone knew if it were possible to mod a 650D for a 240mm in the front then again I am leaning towards the switch because of the larger size and better rad support, id like to do a loop in a modded TJ07 with a quad in the bottom and a triple in the roof but it be a bit expensive tbh
  4. Intel Core i5 3570K Asus Maximus V Formula XFX Radeon HD7950 Patriot Intel Extreme Masters Limited Edition 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz Corsair AX760 1TB WD Caviar Black, 640GB Samsung spinpoint and a 120GB Samsung 840 Fractal Design Define XL Asus Xonar DGX + generic TP link wireless card
  5. if you want to do it for free the free version of Avast! (for real time) and Malwarebytes (for scans) is a good combo if you dont mind paying Kaspersky or ESET are good Just avoid Norton or Mcafee
  6. Im planning on upgrading my rig with liquid cooling later in the year and ive been looking at the Corsair 650D, problem is im not sure what radiators I could use I want to use a 240mm/280mm in the top but im not sure how much room ill have before it would hit the motherboard, im using a Maximus V Formula And I also want to know would it be possible to mod the case to allow a 240mm rad in the front? if not ill use the Phobya 200mm but im not sure what fan to use on it any suggestions? Im also considering a Define R4 or Switch 810 but have the same problem with room in the roof? any ideas what I could use in those?
  7. So should I go for the D-Link DSL-320B (priced at £20) and a TP-Link TD-8616 (priced at £15)? is there any major difference between the 2?
  8. it isnt on, one of the first things I tried after a little research when the problem developed a couple months ago it worked for a time but I honestly thing the thing is heading out either way just need to replace it and get the WD working
  9. its DSL. Oh and almost forgot the old D-Link is a DSL-2640R honestly want to just get rid of the thing at this point its been having some wired issues in dropping connection again I think its the modem but honestly im not sure it may just be the thing is on its last legs
  10. I managed to pick up a Western Digital MyNet N750 router to replace my ancient wireless G D-Link modem/router provided by my ISP (Talk Talk if it matters) unfortunately the WD refuses to work in Bridge mode with the D-Link which form my understanding should be supported during configuration of the WD I can connect to the router but it cannot connect to the modem I am not particularly well versed in networking so I am not certain of my diagnosis but it would seem to be a modem issue so I am in the market to replace it I am not 100% certain what im looking for but after a quick search on Amazon ive come across a D-Link DSL-320B (priced at £20) and a TP-Link TD-8616 (priced at £15) are either of these suitable? or do I need something different?
  11. I can see a lot of people glossing over that detail considering ive seen people order an intel a CPU and an AMD board before (or the reverse though in saying that ive seen wirse) I have looked at some barbs but as it stands ill probably stick with either Bitspower or Monsoon compression fittings Anyone have experience with Masterkleer or Durelene? ive heard great things about both and the clear Masterkleer is fairly cheap for some 7/16"ID 5/8" OD (the fittings are a little more but it works out to a similar cost as 3/8"ID 5/8"OD) and I cant seem to find Durelene in the UK
  12. I will keep that in mind thanks does anyone know the size of the barbs on the Maximus V Formula are? im generally seeing people say 3/8" but nothing conclusive and unless im being blind it is not in the users manual EDIT Looked some more into issues with the XSPC hose and it looks like the cheap stuff they include with their kits is prone to plasticiser problems while the tubing you can buy separately seems to be ok though ive heard great things about Masterkleer and Durelene any of you have experience with either of these?
  13. Thanks for the help managed to track down a pair of the new Black QDCs for a fairly reasonable price with the G1/4 on the male and compression on female So because the EC6 coolant contains inhibitors it should be fine with the mix of copper and nickel which has a low corosion potential to being with? at least that was my interpretation of it And I'll look further into the tubing as well as the push pull on the Monsta
  14. I've elected to upgrade my rig with my first liquid cooling set up later in the year (likely November/December) and have begun some basic planning id like to think I have a decent enough knowledge of the components I need but ive come across a few things im not 100% sure about 1. Mixing Metals Now I know this is generally not a good idea particularly with Silver and Nickel or Aluminium and bare Copper or Brass but would there be an issue with Copper and Nickel plated Copper? The reason I ask is I was looking to use an Asus DCII 7970 being that its cheaper than a reference design and use one of EK's blocks but I cant find the Copper based version anywhere only the Nickel plated version would this be fine to use with a Copper CPU Block/Copper Rads? 2. EK's Nickel Plating And on the subject I know EK had some issues with their Nickel plating a while back from what I understand this has been fixed can anyone confirm this? 3. Push Pull or Push I was planning on using an Alphacool Monsta 240mm in the front of an Arc XL and being so thick I had considered a Push Pull setup using Corsair SP120 Quiet Editions would it be worth it or would Push just as effective? 4. Which DDC I was planning on using an EK Laing DDC X-Res Pump Top with a DDC Pump being that I see anywhere id put a D5 and a Tube Reservoir in the Arc XL without causing obstruction to cable routing and I remember reading that with certain pumps some pump top reservoirs like this may require active cooling is there any truth to this and if so would an MCP350 be fine? 5. Quick Disconnects I get the idea behind these fittings and have considered using them on the GPU block being the component move likely to be changed to save me having to completely drain and refill the loop but I cant see a G1/4 thread on any of the fittings to connect to the component am I just being blind? 6. Compression vs Barb + Clamp From what I understand the differences between these 2 types of fitting dont extend much beyond looks though I have heard that Compression fittings hole the tubing better and are less likely to leak particularly with people new to water cooling would this be correct? 7. Component Choices So I thought I might as well run my list of components as it is now by some people more experienced than I to get some opinions CPU Block: EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Copper/Acetal or an XSPC Raystorm GPU Block: EK FC7970 DCII Reservoir: EK Laing DDC X-Res Pump Top 140 Pump: Swiftech MCP350 (Laing DDC) Fittings: Bitspower G1/4" Thread Compression Fitting for 5/8"OD 3/8"ID Tubing and possibly a pair of Koolance Quick Disconnects Front Radiator: Alphacool NeXXos Monsta 240mm Top Radiator: Alphacool NeXXos ST30 240mm Fans: Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition or the black NF-F12s if I can get them Tubing: XSPC 5/8"OD 3/8"ID High Flex Tubing Coolant: XSPC EC6 Non Conductive Coolant Case: Fractal Design Arc XL
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