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Suggestions for mobo upgrade to overclock 8600k due to current limit throttling.

adc
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I purchased an i5 8600k a few weeks ago, along with a Z370-A Pro from MSI. For the most part, I've had no problems - however, the chip doesn't want to go above 4.8GHz@1.27V (and Prime95 large FFTs runs at 72C max) due to power delivery issues - I get power throttling in XTU's interface, and raising the power max to the CPU to 500w or whatever the max is runs into into current limit throttling in XTU's interface. At this point, I'm pretty sure the issue is the motherboard - which isn't surprising, it's not a great motherboard - and I'm looking to upgrade.

 

Currently I was looking at the Gigabyte Z390 Gaming X (and possibly the UD, as it's cheaper) or the Z370 Aorus Gaming 5; however, I don't fully understand how the power delivery systems compare and I don't know which would be better in terms of overclocking headroom motherboard-wise

 

I'm looking for a board that, mainly, can handle overclocking my 8600k. It needs to have support for 3200MHz DDR4 memory, 4x SATA ports as well as Intel RAID support, 6 USB slots, a USB 3.0 front header, a LAN port (preferably gigabit, but I'd take 100mb!), a PCI-E 16x slot, and the ability to hook up a power button from my case. I don't care about the wifi the Gaming 5 or anything like that.

 

I would appreciate if anyone could weigh in on this, or possibly give a better suggestion.

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I'd rather spend even more for something good for the 9900k... this way you can keep using the same board for at least 5 years, maybe a decade, just by upgrading the CPU.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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12 minutes ago, adc said:

 

It would be a waste of money to replace your motherboard unless it's literally broken

 

1.27V is low, you can go higher, just put a fan over the VRM if the VRM is overheating.

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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46 minutes ago, Streetguru said:

It would be a waste of money to replace your motherboard unless it's literally broken

 

1.27V is low, you can go higher, just put a fan over the VRM if the VRM is overheating.

Raising the voltage past 1.3V or so causes XTU to immediately output a current limit throttling warning and clock the CPU back to 4.4-4.5GHz, even though it's perfectly stable at 4.8GHz. Temperature-wise, nothing in HWMonitor goes above the temperature reported for the CPU cores, so unless this board doesn't report the VRM temperatures I don't think it's overheating there.

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4 minutes ago, adc said:

Raising the voltage past 1.3V or so causes XTU to immediately output a current limit throttling warning and clock the CPU back to 4.4-4.5GHz, even though it's perfectly stable at 4.8GHz. Temperature-wise, nothing in HWMonitor goes above the temperature reported for the CPU cores, so unless this board doesn't report the VRM temperatures I don't think it's overheating there.

Jesus Christ is that a 3 phase VRM? why do they even make that board? Still a waste to change it out though, wait to see what Ryzen 3000 offers early next year. can probably upgrade to a 4.5ghz 8 core on the cheap then


If you can't turn any overcurrent protection off it's probably there to keep the VRM from blowing up if it's only a 3 phase, you'll know it's a 4 phase if the mosfet under the red circle heats up the area more than the rest of that top VRM.

 

Changing out your board MIGHT get you 5-10fps in CPU bottlenecked games.

Run a stress test and see if the heatsink about the chip circled gets warm/hot compared to the heatsink in green
133198990_Z3701.jpg.5255d8643ce1e8c513b2f4ee124d16ca.jpg

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Streetguru said:

Jesus Christ is that a 3 phase VRM? why do they even make that board? Still a waste to change it out though, wait to see what Ryzen 3000 offers early next year. can probably upgrade to a 4.5ghz 8 core on the cheap then


If you can't turn any overcurrent protection off it's probably there to keep the VRM from blowing up if it's only a 3 phase, you'll know it's a 4 phase if the mosfet under the red circle heats up the area more than the rest of that top VRM.

 

Changing out your board MIGHT get you 5-10fps in CPU bottlenecked games.

Run a stress test and see if the heatsink about the chip circled gets warm/hot compared to the heatsink in green

There is an overcurrent option in the BIOS, but it isn't simply "overcurrent protection on/off", it wants me to input a number (I believe it's in amps?) and, from memory, doesn't give much more information than that.

 

I'll check out the temperature on that chip tomorrow.

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1 minute ago, adc said:

There is an overcurrent option in the BIOS, but it isn't simply "overcurrent protection on/off", it wants me to input a number (I believe it's in amps?) and, from memory, doesn't give much more information than that.

 

I'll check out the temperature on that chip tomorrow.

By check I mean literally just touch it and compare if you don't have a temp gun or something.

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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1 minute ago, Streetguru said:

By check I mean literally just touch it and compare if you don't have a temp gun or something.

Yeah, I figured.

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