Jump to content

could i solder my IHS to my CPU cooler?

 Share

so, this is just an idea and i probably will not be doing this but i am curious how well would it work if i were to solder my IHS to the coldplate of my cooler? just to replace thermal paste was my only idea, still using LM on the die

but would i bust a heatpipe when i soldered it to the coldplate? would it even fit back in the socket? or would i just not be able to use the socket retention mechanism?

 

https://buy.solder.com/3-Solder-Alloys-Ribbon-Kit/P1035_1014/ id use something like this if i were to do it but obviously not $400 worth

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

you would literally be marrying your cooler (whatever that might be) to that CPU, 'til death do the (not?) part. ...for what, another 5*C?

 

that's not to mention the insane amount of problems you'd encounter by (necessarily) removing the CPU bracket from the socket. i have no idea how you'd get the pressure required to adequately regain the pressure needed.

 

might as well just say the MB, CPU and cooler are now a single unremovable "Thing". try reselling THAT...

[FS][US] Corsair H115i 280mm AIO-AMD $60+shipping

 

 

System specs:
Asus Prime X370 Pro - Custom EKWB CPU/GPU 2x360 1x240 soft loop - Ryzen 1700X - Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB - Plextor 512 NVMe + 2TB SU800 - EVGA GTX1080ti - LianLi PC11 Dynamic
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, knightslugger said:

you would literally be marrying your cooler (whatever that might be) to that CPU, 'til death do the (not?) part. ...for what, another 5*C?

 

that's not to mention the insane amount of problems you'd encounter by (necessarily) removing the CPU bracket from the socket. i have no idea how you'd get the pressure required to adequately regain the pressure needed.

 

might as well just say the MB, CPU and cooler are now a single irremovable "Thing". try reselling THAT...

well no id be marrying the cooler to the IHS until i decide to heat it up again and remove it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Nogghan said:

well no id be marrying the cooler to the IHS until i decide to heat it up again and remove it

are you REALLY going to go through THAT MUCH trouble just to shed a few more degrees?

 

...assuming you can figure out a reliable way to get the CPU to clamp the IHS down to the socket...

[FS][US] Corsair H115i 280mm AIO-AMD $60+shipping

 

 

System specs:
Asus Prime X370 Pro - Custom EKWB CPU/GPU 2x360 1x240 soft loop - Ryzen 1700X - Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB - Plextor 512 NVMe + 2TB SU800 - EVGA GTX1080ti - LianLi PC11 Dynamic
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, knightslugger said:

are you REALLY going to go through THAT MUCH trouble just to shed a few more degrees?

 

...assuming you can figure out a reliable way to get the CPU to clamp down to the socket...

i already said i wasnt doing this but, arent you aware that coolers apply a good amount of force when you screw them down, especially because it goes around the socket the retention bracket only keeps the CPU from being ripped out when you remove a cooler, it also helps keep it in place but AMD cpus dont have one and dont seem to need one, again because it mounts to the motherboard and still clamps down just the same

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

why not just go on-die water cooling, that's as effective as it can be

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Jurrunio said:

why not just go on-die water cooling, that's as effective as it can be

well because then id have to buy a loop and set it up, right now im just using a massive AF heatsink that i can run passively 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

-nvm-

 

of course you could do  this, if you could mark out exactly where to line up the cpu on the base,  and pray that you dont bend the pins/ w/e trying to get this in place.

 

also assuming you  do this away from your mobo, cause most soldering kits would mess up everything else around the area if you had lots of wasted heat spread.  not to mention you may over heat a tube like your concerned if you heat the base up to much.

 

there are better ways to make this connection more permanent, like the ceramic epoxy that ArcticSilver makes...  i know you think you'd bea ble to take off a soldered CPU,  but TBH i think epoxying it in would be  a bajillion times easier to line up the cpu/base/pins and then you could in theory remove it... although you'd have to remove the retention arm unit or hope you can actuate it with the cpu/heatsink monster in the way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have the tools to do it then please do it. I would love to see the difference.

 

But before you do: lap the IHS flat first. Those things are more crooked then a 7th term politician.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, the dutch guy said:

If you have the tools to do it then please do it. I would love to see the difference.

 

But before you do: lap the IHS flat first. Those things are more crooked then a 7th term politician.

lapping doesn't level the IHS.

[FS][US] Corsair H115i 280mm AIO-AMD $60+shipping

 

 

System specs:
Asus Prime X370 Pro - Custom EKWB CPU/GPU 2x360 1x240 soft loop - Ryzen 1700X - Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB - Plextor 512 NVMe + 2TB SU800 - EVGA GTX1080ti - LianLi PC11 Dynamic
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I for one, want to see this man go through with this.

Gaming - Ryzen 5600x | 32GB 3200mhz  Vega 56 | 1TB NVME | 500GB NVME

Home Server - Ryzen 2700x | 16GB 3400mhz |  RX 550 | 500GB NVME 11x2TB HDD 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

One would have to ensure the IHS doesnt warp from the heat used to solder the 2 together.

 

other than that i dont see a problem.

 

Installing it onto the CPU would be a little more tricky , you will need to make sure you can still close the retention arm, the soldered cooler may get in the way.

 

In the end though, i dont see a reason to do this unelss your already running a custom loop.

CPU: Intel i7 3930k w/OC & EK Supremacy EVO Block | Motherboard: Asus P9x79 Pro  | RAM: G.Skill 4x4 1866 CL9 | PSU: Seasonic Platinum 1000w Corsair RM 750w Gold (2021)|

VDU: Panasonic 42" Plasma | GPU: Gigabyte 1080ti Gaming OC & Barrow Block | Sound: Asus Xonar D2X - Z5500 -FiiO X3K DAP/DAC - ATH-M50S | Case: Phantek Enthoo Primo White |

Storage: Samsung 850 Pro 1TB SSD + WD Blue 1TB SSD | Cooling: XSPC D5 Photon 270 Res & Pump | 2x XSPC AX240 White Rads | NexXxos Monsta 80x240 Rad P/P | NF-A12x25 fans |

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, knightslugger said:

lapping doesn't level the IHS.

getting the top flat is the whole point of lapping it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, the dutch guy said:

getting the top flat is the whole point of lapping it.

The point of lapping is to remove imperfections in the surface to make it uniform. It is not a squaring process (straighten, eg to make un-crooked), which you are not going to accomplish with your fingers and some sand paper.

[FS][US] Corsair H115i 280mm AIO-AMD $60+shipping

 

 

System specs:
Asus Prime X370 Pro - Custom EKWB CPU/GPU 2x360 1x240 soft loop - Ryzen 1700X - Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB - Plextor 512 NVMe + 2TB SU800 - EVGA GTX1080ti - LianLi PC11 Dynamic
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 10/12/2018 at 8:52 PM, Nogghan said:

i already said i wasnt doing this but, arent you aware that coolers apply a good amount of force when you screw them down, especially because it goes around the socket the retention bracket only keeps the CPU from being ripped out when you remove a cooler, it also helps keep it in place but AMD cpus dont have one and dont seem to need one, again because it mounts to the motherboard and still clamps down just the same

 

AMD CPUs are PGA, and use Zero-Insertion Force sockets. Coolers often get stuck to the IHS on AMD cpus and will be pulled straight out of the socket, even when the socket clamp is locked down.

 

INTEL CPUs are LGA, and use mechanically secured sockets. Contact between the pads on the CPU and pins in the socket is assured through spring pressure between the socket pins and the socket clamp. When folks delid an intel CPU and go water-on-die cooling, the amount of cooler pressure required to reliably get contact between the pins and pads is SIGNIFICANTLY higher than normal cooler pressure (which is really just to get even spread of TIM across the IHS and to get as thin a layer as possible). Because the cooler mounting was never designed to hold a CPU down into the socket, board warpage is often encountered resulting in many system I/O errors, usually from RAM traces warping.

[FS][US] Corsair H115i 280mm AIO-AMD $60+shipping

 

 

System specs:
Asus Prime X370 Pro - Custom EKWB CPU/GPU 2x360 1x240 soft loop - Ryzen 1700X - Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB - Plextor 512 NVMe + 2TB SU800 - EVGA GTX1080ti - LianLi PC11 Dynamic
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, knightslugger said:

AMD CPUs are PGA, and use Zero-Insertion Force sockets. Coolers often get stuck to the IHS on AMD cpus and will be pulled straight out of the socket, even when the socket clamp is locked down.

Yep this happened to me very lucky pins did not bend or rip out of the cpu

My daily driver: The Wrath of Red: OS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen TR4 1950x 3.85GHz / Cooler Master MasterAir MA621P Twin-Tower RGB CPU Air Cooler / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / ASRock x399 Taichi / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / HP 10GB Single Port Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-E 10GBe NIC / Samsung 512GB 970 pro M.2 / ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 STRIX 8GB / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor x3

 

My technology Rig: The wizard: OS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen R7 1800x 3.95MHz / Corsair H110i / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / ASUS CH 6 / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / HP 10GB Single Port Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-E 10GBe NIC / 512GB 960 pro M.2 / ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 STRIX 8GB / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor HP Monitor

 

My I don't use RigOS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen 1600x 3.85GHz / Cooler Master MasterAir MA620P Twin-Tower RGB CPU Air Cooler / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / MSI x370 Gaming Pro Carbon / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / Samsung PM961 256GB M.2 PCIe Internal SSDEVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti SSC GAMING / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor

 

My NAS: The storage miser: OS unRAID v. 6.9.0-beta25 / CPU Intel i7 6700 / Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 500 Watt 80 Plus / ASUS Maximus viii Hero / 32GB Gskill RipJaw DDR4 3200Mhz / HP Mellanox ConnectX-2 10 GbE PCI-e G2 Dual SFP+ Ported Ethernet HCA NIC / 9 Drives total 29TB - 1 4TB seagate parity - 7 4TB WD Red data - 1 1TB laptop drive data - and 2 240GB Sandisk SSD's cache / Headless

 

Why did I buy this server: OS unRAID v. 6.9.0-beta25 / Dell R710 enterprise server with dual xeon E5530 / 48GB ecc ddr3 / Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA w/ LSI 9211-8i P20 IT / 4 450GB sas drives / headless

 

Just another server: OS Proxmox VE / Dell poweredge R410

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, knightslugger said:

The point of lapping is to remove imperfections in the surface to make it uniform. It is not a squaring process (straighten, eg to make un-crooked), which you are not going to accomplish with your fingers and some sand paper.

the point is to make as flat as possible, this is not a new process but has been done as long as intel and amd came with IHS chips.

there are plenty of articles describing the process and its advantages.

here is a really old one but still relevant, especially with solderd IHS being the new standard.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1366-page1.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, the dutch guy said:

the point is to make as flat as possible, this is not a new process but has been done as long as intel and amd came with IHS chips.

there are plenty of articles describing the process and its advantages.

here is a really old one but still relevant, especially with solderd IHS being the new standard.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1366-page1.html

The goal of lapping is to create a specific surface roughness for better contact between the cpu and cooler and not necessarily flatness. https://metalcutting.com/what-is-lapping/ 

A flatter heatsink will prefer a flatter cpu whereas the same might not apply to one that is more convex. 

If you ever need help with a build, read the following before posting: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/3061-build-plan-thread-recommendations-please-read-before-posting/
Also, make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, the dutch guy said:

the point is to make as flat as possible

i'm curious, what exactly do think "crooked" means?

 

Because it does not mean what you think it means.

[FS][US] Corsair H115i 280mm AIO-AMD $60+shipping

 

 

System specs:
Asus Prime X370 Pro - Custom EKWB CPU/GPU 2x360 1x240 soft loop - Ryzen 1700X - Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB - Plextor 512 NVMe + 2TB SU800 - EVGA GTX1080ti - LianLi PC11 Dynamic
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, knightslugger said:

i'm curious, what exactly do think "crooked" means?

 

Because it does not mean what you think it means.

PRINCESS BRIDE

 

*zips up so his age isn't showing*

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, WoodenMarker said:

The goal of lapping is to create a specific surface roughness for better contact between the cpu and cooler and not necessarily flatness.

couldn't you in theory, lap it with something so fine you get a mirror finish

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Neo-revo said:

couldn't you in theory, lap it with something so fine you get a mirror finish

I have some 7000 grit sandpaper that I use on heatsinks sometimes, it makes them mirrior Esq in 20 -30 mins 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

like brushed stainless? but to teh poitn you still get most of a reflection.  

 

have you noticed better dissapation with that grit run?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Neo-revo said:

like brushed stainless? but to teh poitn you still get most of a reflection.  

 

have you noticed better dissapation with that grit run?

well I can show you I have one laying around right now 

 

I dont notice much difference, I just like the way it looks, and it makes thermal pads stick better 

1539633361747755822664775791588.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×