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Need Professional Opinions for Custom Loop

I'm using a GTX 1080 from EVGA, 8700k, and Asus Strix Z370-E MOBO (Which will be watercooled with EK monoblock)

 

I plan on using these cheap RGB fans on my rad, and a 28mm Slim Edition Rad from EK. My Question is: is 360mm enough? What temps will I see? I plan to do some LIGHT overclocking. I'd really like to stick to the Slim Edition 360 if I can get away with it. 

 

Also, which of these 1080s should I buy? There are so many options and I have a loose grasp on why they all cost different prices. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487244&cm_re=GTX_1080-_-14-487-244-_-Product

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360 will be MORE than enough to do serious overclocking. most people say 280mm rad is a sweet spot for the 8700k, and so the 360 will be fine. difference in temps between 280 and 360? couple degrees. 

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What's the thickness of the 360 rad you plan on using? I am using the 55mm 360 from bitspower and cooling a strix 1080 and threadripper 1950x my idle temps are around 30c on 1080 and 20ish on the 1950x

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1 minute ago, BOBWARPATH said:

360 will be MORE than enough to do serious overclocking. most people say 280mm rad is a sweet spot for the 8700k, and so the 360 will be fine. difference in temps between 280 and 360? couple degrees. 

Are you sure? Remember I'm also watercooling the 1080 and motherboard in addition to the 8700k

1 minute ago, TekRed said:

What's the thickness of the 360 rad you plan on using? I am using the 55mm 360 from bitspower and cooling a strix 1080 and threadripper 1950x my idle temps are around 30c on 1080 and 20ish on the 1950x

Its the EK "Slim Edition" which is a fancy way of saying 28mm Rad

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As Bobwarpath mentioned the slim will have issues I would recommend a thicker 360, if not possible go with a thicker 240 or 280 or 2 slims 

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8 minutes ago, dragonxt said:

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EK Slims are the worst performing ~30 mm Rads. If you need a slim form-factor radiator, I would suggest you look into something like Hardware Labs GTS radiators.

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6 minutes ago, BOBWARPATH said:

that slim maybe a problem, try and get one with more fins per inch

I could go 40mm, but would my cheap fans be a bottleneck? Or do the fans not really make a difference? (The ones I specified are not Static Pressure optimized)

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11 minutes ago, dragonxt said:

I could go 40mm, but would my cheap fans be a bottleneck? Or do the fans not really make a difference? (The ones I specified are not Static Pressure optimized)

Fans are a bit hard to gauge from the spec sheet along since there tends to be a lot of BS. In particular its quite difficult to see how much static pressure optimized these fans are. All I can tend from the spec sheet when compared to a high end fan such as an 120 mm Noctua fan:

 

  • The fan is specified to be twice as loud when moving the same amount of air
  • Or alternatively at the same noise level, move less than half the amount of air as Noctua
  • The Max fan speed is gets you about the performance of the slowest 120 mm Noctua fan

Will this be a problem? depends on your opinion. I guess it will be maxed out in rpm to get any decent airflow and therefore decently loud. You'll always get some airflow, but I doubt these are static pressure optimized. On a side note, the LED controller seems to be a bit crap based on some of the reviews, so I would be wary of that too.

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9 minutes ago, For Science! said:

Fans are a bit hard to gauge from the spec sheet along since there tends to be a lot of BS. In particular its quite difficult to see how much static pressure optimized these fans are. All I can tend from the spec sheet when compared to a high end fan such as an 120 mm Noctua fan:

 

  • The fan is specified to be twice as loud when moving the same amount of air
  • Or alternatively at the same noise level, move less than half the amount of air as Noctua
  • The Max fan speed is gets you about the performance of the slowest 120 mm Noctua fan

Will this be a problem? depends on your opinion. I guess it will be maxed out in rpm to get any decent airflow and therefore decently loud. You'll always get some airflow, but I doubt these are static pressure optimized. On a side note, the LED controller seems to be a bit crap based on some of the reviews, so I would be wary of that too.

Thanks for taking a look. 

 

Assuming I use Noctua Fans, is a 40mm 360 Rad enough to cool a GPU, MOBO, and CPU? (With some light overclocking).

 

Also, what are the differences between all the GPUs I mentioned in the original post? 

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6 minutes ago, dragonxt said:

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With the PE rad, I would think you would get away with some overclocking, but not much, you would want to look into delidding the 8700K would be my opinion. 

 

Different cooler and PCB designs. If you were just air-cooling and not going for a crazy multi-GPU setup (or a particularly SFF) then I would go for the more recent FTW2 (more preferably, FTW3). EVGA had its fair share of issues with the Pascal series and constantly updated their cooler and PCB designs to make sure their cards didn't catch fire (fairly literally - just search "EVGA FTW 1080 fire").

 

https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2016/11/3/13510238/evga-geforce-1080-1070-1060-graphics-card-fire

 

The difference is more subtle in the case of watercooling since you will be ripping off the cooler and replacing it with a waterblock. You have to ensure that you have a card that has a compatible waterblock - use the configurator below, some cards just do not have blocks.

 

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/

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