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Ryzen 7 Mini-ITX and Liquid vs Air Cooling

Go to solution Solved by brochacholibre,

Thanks for the help, everyone! I'll definitely be revisiting my build and tweaking it to be more effective.

Quick question, all,

 

In my effort to develop a long-lasting but also reasonably-priced build that will meet my needs, I have chosen a mini-ITX build that uses Ryzen 7 1800x and AMD RX 580 8gb GPU.

 

The chassis I've chosen is a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Shift, with room for a 120mm liquid cooling radiator. The trouble here is that a CPU cooler is limited to 80mm tall. So, sff is definitely my best option for air.

 

What is my best option for CPU cooling? I am not driven to overclocking, but I'm not leaving it out of the question.

 

Initially, I was investigating both the Cryorig C1 and the Cryorig C7 Cu. However, at that price, I was also wondering if a 120mm AIO would be a better option for thermals, but then long-term liability gets into play. In addition, I worry that the C1 and the C7 Cu, both with an arguably sufficient TDP rating, would not only disallow for any potential overclocking, but would also have heat/airflow problems in a tiny case with the open-air GPU.

 

If AIO is compelling, can anyone recommend a good option to me? I'd like to avoid spending more than $60 to $70 on a cooling solution so I can keep costs down.

 

Build link here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qPfNvn

 

Thanks for the help, all.

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Your build has the older H60. I recommend the newer one over an air cooler

 

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181140&cm_re=corsair_cpu_cooler-_-35-181-140-_-Product

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2 minutes ago, brochacholibre said:

Initially, I was investigating both the Cryorig C1 and the Cryorig C7 Cu. However, at that price, I was also wondering if a 120mm AIO would be a better option for thermals, but then long-term liability gets into play. In addition, I worry that the C1 and the C7 Cu, both with an arguably sufficient TDP rating, would not only disallow for any potential overclocking, but would also have heat/airflow problems in a tiny case with the open-air GPU.

An AIO will generally perform Better than the Cryorig C7, Noctua L9a or other small profile coolers like this. 

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5 minutes ago, brochacholibre said:

 

You should be going Ryzen 2000, it uses less power at the same frequencies.

You should get a case that actually has airflow

 

bigger cool the better typically. Probably go for a 240mm AIO.

Should really get an RX 580 with a better cooler, like this one. It's also cheaper.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jkFXsY/asus-radeon-rx-580-8gb-dual-video-card-dual-rx580-o8g

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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The evolve series is really bad when paired with an aircooler.  Try and get a 140mm aio if you can

Want to custom loop?  Ask me more if you are curious

 

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if you get a water rad, get one of noctuas industrial fans, you'll need the extra airflow.

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I would also recommend the asus x370i motherboard. the Gigabyte and Asrock boards have bad vrm cooling, so overclocking aint too great.

 

The gigabyte one even at 1.3V the VRMs are already 95c, and Asrock one should be similar.

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https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CRzqhy

 

get an h80 as its thicker and a gigabyte mobo as from my experience asrock is pretty crappy. i put in 2 noctua industrials for the extra airflow, use it as push pull and put the crappy stock corsair ones in your case.

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Just now, Firewrath9 said:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CRzqhy

 

get an h80 as its thicker and a gigabyte mobo as from my experience asrock is pretty crappy. i put in 2 noctua industrials for the extra airflow, use it as push pull and put the crappy stock corsair ones in your case.

The gigabyte itx is also crappy, Asus has the only normal itx board, which is the x370i.

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3 minutes ago, brochacholibre said:

What's the difference between the iterations of the H60?

Newer radiator design, pump, pump design, tubing, and software upgrades. The h60 you had is quite old and came out many years agoooo

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CPU: i7-4770K @ 4.3GHz 1.18v, Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S, Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth Mark 2, RAM: 16 GB G.Skill Sniper Series @ 1866MHz, GPU: EVGA 980Ti Classified @ 1507/1977MHz , Storage: 500GB 850 EVO, WD Cavier Black/Blue 1TB+1TB,  Power Supply: Corsair HX 750W, Case: Fractal Design r4 Black Pearl w/ Window, OS: Windows 10 Home 64bit

 

Plex Server WIP

CPU: i5-3570K, Cooler: Stock, Motherboard: ASrock, Ram: 16GB, GPU: Intel igpu, Storage: 120GB Kingston SSD, 6TB WD Red, Powersupply: Corsair TX 750W, Case: Corsair Carbide Spec-01 OS: Windows 10

 

Lenovo Legion Laptop

CPU: i7-7700HQ, RAM: 8GB, GPU: 1050Ti 4GB, Storage: 500GB Crucial MX500, OS: Windows 10

 

 

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also dont get a corsair ssd, they are way overpriced, just get an adata xpg, a WD black or a 970 evo.

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3 minutes ago, brochacholibre said:

What's the difference between the iterations of the H60?

Just a case with better airflow and possibly support for a 240mm AIO like a Core 500

 

Ryzen 2000 is going to be worth it

 

Could gamble on a B350 board but it may not have an updated bios

Why are you getting a 120GB SSD when you already have a 750GB SSD?
 

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Power Supply: Cooler Master - MasterWatt 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($45.59 @ SuperBiiz)
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Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-07-25 16:23 EDT-0400


 

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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4 minutes ago, phongle123 said:

 

Never
Be
Buying a
Low
Airflow
Case

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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Thanks for the help, everyone! I'll definitely be revisiting my build and tweaking it to be more effective.

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33 minutes ago, brochacholibre said:

Thanks for the help, everyone! I'll definitely be revisiting my build and tweaking it to be more effective.

Just so you know, every single comment you received is not valid due to the airflow restrictiveness and size of this case. Except for @Damascus, except you're going to have a hard time fitting a 140mm AIO inside of this case. Which is why I went for a 120mm.

 

The case will get hotter faster and with little to remedy the problem. This is why this case is a high 80s case. You can add a custom loop in there and it still would not break into the high 70s. This is because you constantly have negative airflow no matter what and no way to exhaust the heat (not that you had much to exhaust in the first place). Even if you use the top fan as an exhaust. The mesh layer on the top of the case you're going to want to take off so heat can be exhausted better due to no top fan mount. But you're trading that for more possible dust in your case. However, since this case is negative airflow no matter what, you're already sucking in dust.

 

Sure you can have a thicker radiator which will cause your temperatures not to rise as fast. Then what are you going to do once the radiator reaches equilibrium? By golly, your radiator will reach equilibrium fast in this case. You're going to get a higher temperature because you're constantly deprived of air to cool the radiator which is why temperatures for this case are in the high 80s. Sure you can add a stronger fan to the radiator but it's not going to do much since it is so restrictive and if you use it as an exhaust you're just pulling out more air in the case that you don't have.

 

I would suggest you to remove the side mesh from the front panel that captures dust. This will greatly increase airflow. Remember this though, high 80s is still fine. Of course you're going to want your temperatures much lower than that. This case is completely safe. But do as I recommended and you'll get much better airflow in and out of your case or don't do it. It's up to you not other people.

 

TL:DR; remove the top mesh and the front side meshes for better airflow. I have already dealt with this case and tried out all possible logical approaches. Adding in bigger radiators and stronger fans won't help you since you have very little air to push/cool. Which is why I opt'd to mod the front panel for airflow.

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On 7/25/2018 at 3:04 PM, phongle123 said:

Just so you know, every single comment you received is not valid due to the airflow restrictiveness and size of this case. Except for @Damascus, except you're going to have a hard time fitting a 140mm AIO inside of this case. Which is why I went for a 120mm.

 

The case will get hotter faster and with little to remedy the problem. This is why this case is a high 80s case. You can add a custom loop in there and it still would not break into the high 70s. This is because you constantly have negative airflow no matter what and no way to exhaust the heat (not that you had much to exhaust in the first place). Even if you use the top fan as an exhaust. The mesh layer on the top of the case you're going to want to take off so heat can be exhausted better due to no top fan mount. But you're trading that for more possible dust in your case. However, since this case is negative airflow no matter what, you're already sucking in dust.

 

Sure you can have a thicker radiator which will cause your temperatures not to rise as fast. Then what are you going to do once the radiator reaches equilibrium? By golly, your radiator will reach equilibrium fast in this case. You're going to get a higher temperature because you're constantly deprived of air to cool the radiator which is why temperatures for this case are in the high 80s. Sure you can add a stronger fan to the radiator but it's not going to do much since it is so restrictive and if you use it as an exhaust you're just pulling out more air in the case that you don't have.

 

I would suggest you to remove the side mesh from the front panel that captures dust. This will greatly increase airflow. Remember this though, high 80s is still fine. Of course you're going to want your temperatures much lower than that. This case is completely safe. But do as I recommended and you'll get much better airflow in and out of your case or don't do it. It's up to you not other people.

 

TL:DR; remove the top mesh and the front side meshes for better airflow. I have already dealt with this case and tried out all possible logical approaches. Adding in bigger radiators and stronger fans won't help you since you have very little air to push/cool. Which is why I opt'd to mod the front panel for airflow.

Just to be clear -- is the poor airflow case the EVOLV or the Core 500? I'm in the market for a mini-ITX build and airflow is a concern due to where the case may be placed (on a shelf or behind a monitor)

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On ‎7‎/‎31‎/‎2018 at 11:05 AM, selectpanic said:

Just to be clear -- is the poor airflow case the EVOLV or the Core 500? I'm in the market for a mini-ITX build and airflow is a concern due to where the case may be placed (on a shelf or behind a monitor)

I was specifically talking about the airflow for the Phanteks Evolv Shift. The Core 500 looks like it would have much better airflow because it has 3 fan spots that are unimpeded for airflow.

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